Beeston Cliff Dorset, ENGLAND
Climbs 63 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 8m a.s.l – Faces E
Beeston is a fine series of interesting bays with some short, quality routes on excellent rock. It is a quiet area that is often ignored which may be worth considering on bank holidays. It is comprised of three sectors with very contrasting climbs. The Limekiln Cave has some good technical sport routes, and the Bay of Rainbows is great for soloing or easy routes on fantastic flowstone. The Great Escape Walls are a totally different ball game with an atmospheric stapled traverse and some very serious solos.
The cliffs are situated on the east coast just south of the village of Southwell. Parking is awkward. You may find a spot in Southwell but be careful not to block anyone in and be aware that tickets are regularly given here. The best spot is back in Cheyne Wears car park. From here walk down the coast path for 15 minutes, past the Neddyfields and above Godnor, until you reach a spoil heap above a promontory.
From Southwell walk down the road to the boulder-blocked quarry track 400m down the road from the Eight Kings, on the left. Go down the track for 300m to the coast path and continue directly down to the spoil heap.
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Dorset (2012), Portland (2008), Deep Water (2007), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)
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