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These details were last updated on 22/Sep/2007

Beeston Cliff

Dorset, ENGLAND

Climbs 57 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude Tidal – Faces E

Crag features
Beeston is a fine series of interesting bays with some short, quality routes on excellent rock. It is a quiet area that is often ignored which may be worth considering on bank holidays. It is comprised of three sectors with very contrasting climbs. The Limekiln Cave has some good technical sport routes, and the Bay of Rainbows is great for soloing or easy routes on fantastic flowstone. The Great Escape Walls are a totally different ball game with an atmospheric stapled traverse and some very serious solos.

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Guidebooks
Dorset (2012), Portland (2008), Deep Water (2007), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Online3+ 6
2Always a Little Further6c+ 10
3Social Lepers7a+ 3
4Suits you Sir!7a 4
5Winterset6c 9
6Skin Up6a+ 21
7Sea Pink7a 5
8Eva Luna7a+ *6
9Fight the Good Fight7a+ 4
10Strategem6b+ 10
11Burnt Sienna6b 16
12Flake Break6c *1
13Lardman6a+ 3
14East Coast Epic6b *3
15Return to Form6a *7
16Rusty Wall6b *3
17Dirty Dog6c *2
18Pavane6a *2
19Aquaserene7a * 
20Te Taniwha6b * 
21Silence of the Deep6b * 
22Lucky Day in Hell7b+  
23Heart Full of Nails7a+ * 
24Konked Out7a * 
25Rags to Rags, Rust to Rust5 2
26The League of Gurus7a  
27Sea of Tears6c * 
28The Underhill Mob6a+  
29Depth GaugeE4 6a * 
 Climb nameGradex
30EsperantoE1 6a  
31BastinadoE4 6a ** 
32The MachineE5 6b ** 
33Deep Water Drug BustE4 6a ** 
34Nutters' WayE5 6b * 
35The 6.03E3 6a * 
36ScrubsE4 6a * 
37Borstal Brake-inE3 6a * 
38The Great Escape6c ***5
39Beach Madness6a **2
40Esmeralda's Monkey7b ***1
41Extreme LivesE7 6b *2
42StaplebiteE4 5c 1
43The Portland ScrewE1 5a 6
44Ethical VacuumE4 6a 3
45Stromboli6a+ 7
46Krakatoa4 *78
47Etna3 *91
48Popacatapetl6a *30
49Fifteen Minutes to Fame6a *32
50Bay of Rainbows6c **7
51Belly Button Traverse6a+ **32
52Bay of Peegs7a+ ** 
53Cornflake Girl6b+ *15
54Bungle, Zippy and George4+ *22
55GyonyuruE4 5c  
56GyttjaE5 6a  
57Portland Exclusion Zone6c 1
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Access notes
The cliffs are situated on the east coast just south of the village of Southwell. Parking is awkward. You may find a spot in Southwell but be careful not to block anyone in and be aware that tickets are regularly given here. The best spot is back in Cheyne Wears car park. From here walk down the coast path for 15 minutes, past the Neddyfields and above Godnor, until you reach a spoil heap above a promontory.

From Southwell walk down the road to the boulder-blocked quarry track 400m down the road from the Eight Kings, on the left. Go down the track for 300m to the coast path and continue directly down to the spoil heap.

The Bay of Rainbows is situated below you to the left (looking out). The amphitheatre which separate Bay of Rainbows from the Great Escape Wall is to the right (looking out). The Limekiln is below the next promotory beyond this to the right (looking out).

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