Beeston Cliff

Climbs 66 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 8m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Beeston is a fine series of interesting bays with some short, quality routes on excellent rock. It is a quiet area that is often ignored which may be worth considering on bank holidays. It is comprised of three sectors with very contrasting climbs. The Limekiln Cave has some good technical sport routes, and the Bay of Rainbows is great for soloing or easy routes on fantastic flowstone. The Great Escape Walls are a totally different ball game with an atmospheric stapled traverse and some very serious solos.

Access notes
The cliffs are situated on the east coast just south of the village of Southwell. Parking is awkward. You may find a spot in Southwell but be careful not to block anyone in and be aware that tickets are regularly given here. The best spot is back in Cheyne Wears car park. From here walk down the coast path for 15 minutes, past the Neddyfields and above Godnor, until you reach a spoil heap above a promontory.

From Southwell walk down the road to the boulder-blocked quarry track 400m down the road from the Eight Kings, on the left. Go down the track for 300m to the coast path and continue directly down to the spoil heap.

Guidebooks
Dorset (2012), Portland (2008), Deep Water (2007), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 GOLDEN PANTS WALL  
2Online3+ 11
3Always a Little Further6b 15
4Social Lepers7a+ 5
5Suits you Sir!7a 5
6Winterset6c 10
7Skin Up6a+ 23
8Sea Pink7a 7
9Eva Luna7a+ *6
10Fight the Good Fight7a+ 4
11Strategem6b+ 11
12Burnt Sienna6b 18
 LIMEKILN CAVE AREA  
14Flake Break6c *1
15Lardman6a+ 3
16East Coast Epic6b *3
17Return to Form6a *7
18Rusty Wall6b *3
19Dirty Dog6c *2
20Pavane6a *2
21Aquaserene7a * 
22Te Taniwha6b * 
23Silence of the Deep6b * 
24Lucky Day in Hell7b+  
25Heart Full of Nails7a+ * 
26Konked Out7a * 
27Rags to Rags, Rust to Rust5a 2
28The League of Gurus7a  
 THE GREAT ESCAPE WALL  
30Sea of Tears6c * 
31The Underhill Mob6a+  
32Depth GaugeE4 6a * 
33EsperantoE1 6a  
34BastinadoE4 6a ** 
35The MachineE5 6b ** 
36Deep Water Drug BustE4 6a ** 
37Nutters' WayE5 6b * 
38The 6.03E3 6a * 
39ScrubsE4 6a * 
40Borstal Brake-inE3 6a * 
41The Great Escape6c *6
42Beach Madness6c 3
43Esmeralda's Monkey7b 1
 BAY OF RAINBOWS AREA  
45Extreme LivesE7 6b *2
46StaplebiteE4 5c 1
47The Portland ScrewE1 5a 7
48Ethical VacuumE4 6a 3
49The Purple Pirate3 2
50Mr Krabs' New Sunglasses3 2
51This Ledge 'ain't Big Enough for the Both of Us3+ 2
52Stromboli6a *10
53Krakatoa4a *88
54Etna3 *110
55Popacatapetl6a *37
56Fifteen Minutes to Fame6a *37
57Bay of Rainbows6c+ **10
58Belly Button Traverse6a+ **39
59Bay of Peegs7a+ ** 
60Cornflake Girl6b+ *17
61Bungle, Zippy and George4c *24
62Gyonyuru6c * 
63Gyttja6c  
64Portland Exclusion Zone6c 1
 NO IDEA WHERE THESE ARE!! ANY HELPERS?  
66The Slab *VD 1
67The Twist *VD 1
68Easy Chimney *HVS 4c 1
69Thumbs Up *E1 5b 1
70Thumbs Down *HVS 4c 1
71Pitchfork Disney *E1 5c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83

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