Cheyne Wears Area

Climbs 321 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 12m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features


Large amounts of rock have fallen from Cheyne cliff. Almost all of the Coralized area at Cheyne cliff collapsed today. coast guard and bmc have been notified. DO NOT CLIMB HERE. the remaining cliff looks incredibly unstable in a lot of areas, please do not climb here until it has been inspected etc it is very dangerous. 24/08/2014

In addition there has been some slippage at the bottom of the small crag at the far end of Neddyfields main cliff. In particular access to climbs between 'Return of the Rice Bandit' and 'La Fievre Spiteuse' is extremely unstable, and access to the other climbs involves dodgy ground and/or high first bolts.

7 September 2014


The section of coast line near Southwell, and the large Cheyne Weares car park, has a number of different cliffs which offer very contrasting styles and grades of climbing on a variety of rock features. Godnor Far North has been developed into a low to mid-grade sport route playground down by the sea and the Neddyfields Main Cliff offers routes in a similar vein. Both these cliffs were mainly developed by members of Basingstoke M.C. and they have become extremely popular although it should be noted that Neddyfields can be over-run by outdoor groups at times. The Lost Valley is an extremely sheltered location in a deep inland ravine with an eerie quiet atmosphere. It also suffers from ivy growth from time to time but this is usually cleared away by the locals especially now that it is been developed as a good hard bouldering venue as well. Dungecroft Quarry is also a sheltered venue containing short bouldery routes on high quality rock and a few easy boulder problems. There is more bouldering on the small vertical wall above the Neddyfields Main crag. The Nook is small sheltered venue on the way to Neddyfields with short routes and boulder problems, Portlands nearest crag to the road! The biggest crag in the area is Cheyne Cliff which looks scruffy from a distance but in fact harbours some fine flowstone faces and orange coral. The routes here are mainly for the fitter climber needing ultimate stamina tests. Possible restriction from 1 Feb to 31 August. Check ROCKFAX web site.

Access notes
The two main parking areas for these crags lie on the main road from Easton just before Southwell. The first is the main Cheyne Weares car park which is clearly marked. The second limited spot (5-6 cars) is in a short track, on the seaward side of the road, 300m south of Cheyne Weares car park, and also 300m north from Southwell. This track is adjacent to the isolated Cheyne House opposite a an ARC quarry entrance. A good coast path track leads south down from here to the cliff-top.

Lost Valley - From the main Cheyne Weares car park walk north (left -looking out) along a ridge for 250m which gives a view into a rocky ravine on the left engulfed in vegetation - this is the Lost Valley. Drop down a steep chute at the far end to gain the right-hand side of the cliff.

Dungecroft Quarry (and the Road Rage Wall) - From the main Cheyne Weares car park walk south (right - looking out) from the car park along a track down into a large disused quarry. The Dungecroft routes are along the quarried wall to the right. The abseil point for the Road Rage Wall is a staple situated on a large boulder on the cliff-top, in front of a pile of waste stone. About 30m north of this is a short block wall set back from the cliff edge where abseil bolts for the Bariatric Buttress can be found.

Cheyne Cliff - From the limited parking spot by Cheyne House descend the coast path then turn left (looking out) along the cliff edge, towards a small quarry. After 10m drop down a steep scree slope (care needed) and trend leftwards (looking out]) down this to reach the edge of the very high main cliff. The Road Rage Wall and Bariatric Buttress are accessible by abseil from Dungecroft Quarry.

Neddyfields Main Cliff and Bouldering Wall - From the limited parking spot walk 200m down the coast path to where the long bouldering wall will appear on the right (2 mins from the road). The Main Cliff lies directly below the bouldering wall. Use a good steep track which cuts back left (looking out) along the cliff base, opposite the far end of the bouldering wall.

Godnor Far North - Descend to the beach boulders as for the Neddyfields Main Cliff. Then head right (looking out) for 150m along the beach, past a large outfall pipe (no climbing on the pipe cliff) to where the main crag starts. The boulders can be greasy and eventually they become tidal. Do not abseil in or take short cuts due to rare fauna.

The Nook - From the limited parking spot at Neddyfields walk 25 metres down the track and turn left onto the middle ledge of a small quarry. Follow this leftwards, the crag is just around the headland - 1 minute.

South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Dorset (2012), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
4Great BearV3 *
5Little BearV1
6Solar StoneV7 *
7Indian SummerV5 **
8Totem PoleV0 **
9PapooseV3 *
10WampumV5 *
11VacillateV5 *
12Jimbo's WallV9 *
13Jimbo's Right HandV8 *
14Pock MarkV8 *
15ProsthesisV3 *
16ColossusV6 *
17Stoic ExistenceV5 *
18FontanelV7 *
19The FlakeV4 **
20Pete's GrooveV6 *
21Taming the FlowV1 ***
22Fountain of YouthV0- ***
23StolidV0- *
24StopcockV0 *
25ProtozoaV0- *
26Amoeba StateV1 *
27The Arete (eliminate version)V3 *
28The AreteV6 **
29RipplesV2 ***
30RazorV5 **
31Pete's RibV7 ***
32Stairway DirectV3 *
33StairwayV0+ *
34Touched by GodV7 **
35The CrackV0-
36Quick StepV0+ *
37The Mantel PieceV0- *
38Close EncountersV8 **
39The GrooveV6 **
40Straight and NarrowV5 *
41DiversionV3 *
42The PodV0+ *
43The pod escapeV0
45Chocolate OrangeV9 *
46Savage TraverseV8 *
47JanusV6 *
49Portland Exclusion Zone6c+
51Mona Lisa5c
53Corner TwinS
54Corner WallHVD
55Slab and CrackHVD
56SidewalkerHS 4a
57Anvil PointHS 4b
58Chimney BreakS
59The Good Life5c **
60Breakover Crack DirectE1 5b *
61Enter Shakari6b
62The GatesVS 4c
63Dusky CornerVD
64Corner DirectHS 4a
65The Oh-No VariantE2 5b
67Small but Perfectly Formed6a *
68Big Slab Variant3 *
69Big SlabVD
71CrackersHS 4a
72Crow's Nest CornerVD
73Loving the Moment6a
74Crow's Nest DirectHS
75Euphemism6b *
76Prisoners Of Gravity6b *
77Island In The Sun6a
79Private World6a
80Stress Test6a
82Remember Blair PeachHVS 4c/5a
83Gi' It Laldy6c *
84Harpies and Quines6b+ **
85Any Day Mike?7b+ *
86One Day, James6b+ *
87Pathfinder6b *
88Snatch SquadHS 4b
90Dreamscape6a *
91Dreamscape Direct6b *
92Ben5a *
93Willem5a *
94Jasper4c *
95Jody Sunshine4c
96Wave Warrior4c
97Valerie's Patio3
98Garden Party6a
100Last Human6c
101Tin Man5c
102Rubber TruncheonHS 4b
103Tombstone3+ **
104Where Silence Has Lease6c **
105Wedding Daze6b *
106Future Imperfect6a+ **
107Jacob's Ladder5a *
108The Truth is Out There6b **
109Resistance is Futile7a+ *
110Car Parts, Bottles and Cutlery6b+ *
111Factor 156a+ *
112Net Asset5c
113Kung Fu Panda4a
114Nonnie and the Pulp Fiction Tantrum4c
115Not Worth BoltingVS 4c
117Return of the Rice Bandit6a
118Midday Massacre5a
119La Fievre Spiteuse5c
120Lucy's off the Wall5a
121Nothing's Shocking6a+ *
122First Contact6b *
123Brace Yourself Sheila5a *
124Conquistadors of the Useless6c
125Small Object of Desire6a
126Annapurna, Mon Amour6a
127The Accelerator7a *
128Nameless6c *
129Born To Hunt6c
130Thick as Thieves6c
131Franks EffortHS 4a
132Three in a Bed5a
133Steve's WallVS 4b
134I wish I was in Steve's Shoe's5c
135Felix Navidad6a+
137Milly Vanilly6a+
138Books Across the Sea6a
139Puppet Show of Memory6a
140InertiaVS 4b/c
141Damn These Electric Sex Pants6a+
143Wonderlust6b **
144IntimidationE1 5b
145Shit Route7a
146Julie Ocean6c+ **
147Northern Invasion7a
148Bigus Dickus6b
149Lugwiler's Dismal Itch6c *
150Ecosystem6b+ *
151Time of the Month6b *
152Inception5c *
153The Screwfix Escourt Agency6a
154The ScoopS
155Better ThingsHS 4a
156Ocean Boulevard4c *
157Outside LeftS
158Bundle of Joy4a
159Crush With EyelinerE1 5b
160Sunday RakeS
161Spider CracksHVS
162The Wilsonator6b
163Jobby's Leaving gift5b
164Joe Stole My Route5b
165Butterfly CrackS
167Blunt AreteV1
168Sharpe AreteV0
169The Herb DebateV2
170Jurassic CrackV1
171The Banana QuestionV2
172Finger the BeaverV1
173Mrs BeaverV2
174Mr BeaverV5
175Ms BeaverV3
176Sweaty Gym SocksVB
177Squeeze the BeaverV1
178The Ramp to NowhereV0
180Leering Crack5a
181Air Kisses6c
182My Pashminas Got Caught in the Gri Gri5c
183East Side Story5a
184Chill Dementia5a
185Sinister Dexter6b
186Bring Me Sunshine6a
187Its a God Awful Small Affair2
188Jugs of JoyHVD
190Mirror of the Sea6c *
191Silver-studded Blue6b *
192Raptor6c *
193Drowning on Dry Land6c **
194Rocket from the Crypt7a+ **
195Coralized7b+ **
196Heartbeats7a *
197Van Life7a *
198The Pigskin Bus Pulls Into Tuna Town6a *
199Dutch Courage6c *
200Found Under Carnal Knowledge7a *
201Fireblade7b+ **
202Dynomite7c+ **
203Pandemonium7c+ **
204Poisoned Bamboo7c *
205No Turn Unstoned7a
206Cruise Control6a+ **
207Road Rage7b+ ***
208Detonator7c **
209Illusions7c ***
210Yesterday's Dreams7b+ **
211Remerberance Sunday6b+
212Italian Eighth6b+ *
213Threatening Speedos6c+ *
214Pouch of Douglas5c *
217A Ying and a Yang and a Yippiedeedoo5c *
218The Lesser of Two Weevils6b+
219Wind Dog6b
220Never Ignore A Pooh-Pooh2+
221Trust me I'm a Doctor3
223Sping Nol4c *
224Julio's Ropeladder6a+
225Die Screaming with Sharp Things in your Head5a *
226Ultrasonic Shoulder6a+ *
227Death Star Canteen5c *
228Crazy Old Hippies4c *
229Crowbar Assassin6a+
230Covert Strike6b *
231The Epicurean Paradox6b+ *
232Dungecroft Delight5a *
233The Alpha and The Omega3+ *
234Dirty Bertie4c
235Doris Does Dungecroft3
237Fix It Duck6b
238We Apologise for the Inconvenience5a
239Gecko Wall6a
240Wall Lizard6c+
241The Cookie Monster3
242Make Cookies Not War4a
247Return of the Gecko6c
248I Learned to Swim at Dunkirk4c
250Little Terror5a
251Blood on the Rocks6a
252The Clicking of Her Needles Spelled Doom6b+
253Viagra Wall6c+
254Can You See Scratchy Bottom?6a+
255Dad Gets Another Monkey Bite2
256Truly, Madly, Steeply7b *
257Heroes of Swanage5c
258Heroes of Portland6b
260Sex, Lies and Videotape7a
261Last Ditch Effort5b
263HevizV2 *
264Mr FudgeV2 **
265Why NotV0-
266Ginger JihadVB
267Lucky PantsVB
268Cake or DeathV1
269Read The Sign5b
270The Hangover6a
271Suspiria de Profundis6b
272Slap and Tickle6a+
274Fallen Angel5a
275Tug on This Jody7a *
276Look West & Find Salvation7a+ *
277Quite Nice Actually6b+
278Little Pinky6b+
279Drilling in the Name6b+ **
280Robin Crack5c
281Clamped Aggression6b+
282Back Door to HeavenV4
283Return to SenderV5
284Heaven SentV6
285Straight to HeavenV7
286Garden ForceV1
287Bastard Crack7a
289No Chutney on His Ferret5c
290LR TraverseV3
291Chapter and Verse4a
292Oatsheaf, Chief4a
293Training for Hubble6a+
294The Stoning of St. Stephen7b+ *
295Mono y Mono7a+ *
297Redundancy CrackE1 5b
298The Martyr7a+ *
299The Secret Garden6b+
300The Beauty of Decay6b+
301Tactical Nuclear Penguin6b
302SlugE1 5b
303Flake Away4a
304Portrait of a Lady6c+
305Flaked Out4c
306Echoes Of Trad4c
307Test Pilot6a
309Touch The Earth7a+
310Constant Companion5a
311The Lost Domain6a
312Lush5c *
313Head in a Bush3+
314The Angel from my Nightmare3
315Sweet Dreams Are Made of This3+
3164, 8, 15, 16, 23, 424c
317Rhys Gets Another Monkey Bite5a
318Not the Same Mistake Again Kath5a
319Plastic Tractor3
320Dude, Where's My Car?S
321Enjoy My Experience6c+ *
322Curved AirV0
323Pit BullV3
324No Fee RequiredVB
325Constant GardeningVB
326Faith, Hope, No CharityVB
327Not for the Faint HeartedV0
328Scene of the CrimeV4
329Killer AppV4 **
330Covert OpsV3 *
331Crazy TaxiV3
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
FOR ANYONE THINKING OF HEADING TO CHEYNE WEARES AREA BE AWARE Large amounts of rock have fallen from Cheyne cliff. Almost all of the Coralized area at Cheyne cliff collapsed today. coast guard and bmc have been notified. DO NOT CLIMB HERE. the remaining cliff looks incredibly unstable in a lot of areas, please do not climb here until it has been inspected etc etc it is very very dangerous. I believe local authorities will be closing the area underneath the cliff for safety reasons. spread the word
David Clover - 24/Aug/14