Cheyne Wears Area

Climbs 326 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 12m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features


24 September 2014

Large amounts of rock have fallen from Cheyne cliff. Almost all of the Coralized area at Cheyne cliff collapsed today. coast guard and bmc have been notified. DO NOT CLIMB HERE. the remaining cliff looks incredibly unstable in a lot of areas, please do not climb here until it has been inspected etc it is very dangerous.

In addition there has been some slippage at the bottom of the small crag at the far end of Neddyfields main cliff. In particular access to climbs between 'Return of the Rice Bandit' and 'La Fievre Spiteuse' is extremely unstable, and access to the other climbs involves dodgy ground and/or high first bolts.

7 September 2014

The section of coast line near Southwell, and the large Cheyne Weares car park, has a number of different cliffs which offer very contrasting styles and grades of climbing on a variety of rock features. Godnor Far North has been developed into a low to mid-grade sport route playground down by the sea and the Neddyfields Main Cliff offers routes in a similar vein. Both these cliffs were mainly developed by members of Basingstoke M.C. and they have become extremely popular although it should be noted that Neddyfields can be over-run by outdoor groups at times. The Lost Valley is an extremely sheltered location in a deep inland ravine with an eerie quiet atmosphere. It also suffers from ivy growth from time to time but this is usually cleared away by the locals especially now that it is been developed as a good hard bouldering venue as well. Dungecroft Quarry is also a sheltered venue containing short bouldery routes on high quality rock and a few easy boulder problems. There is more bouldering on the small vertical wall above the Neddyfields Main crag. The Nook is small sheltered venue on the way to Neddyfields with short routes and boulder problems, Portlands nearest crag to the road! The biggest crag in the area is Cheyne Cliff which looks scruffy from a distance but in fact harbours some fine flowstone faces and orange coral. The routes here are mainly for the fitter climber needing ultimate stamina tests. Possible restriction from 1 Feb to 31 August. Check ROCKFAX web site.

Access notes

The two main parking areas for these crags lie on the main road from Easton just before Southwell. The first is the main Cheyne Weares car park which is clearly marked. The second limited spot (5-6 cars) is in a short track, on the seaward side of the road, 300m south of Cheyne Weares car park, and also 300m north from Southwell. This track is adjacent to the isolated Cheyne House opposite a an ARC quarry entrance. A good coast path track leads south down from here to the cliff-top.

Lost Valley - From the main Cheyne Weares car park walk north (left -looking out) along a ridge for 250m which gives a view into a rocky ravine on the left engulfed in vegetation - this is the Lost Valley. Drop down a steep chute at the far end to gain the right-hand side of the cliff.

Dungecroft Quarry (and the Road Rage Wall) - From the main Cheyne Weares car park walk south (right - looking out) from the car park along a track down into a large disused quarry. The Dungecroft routes are along the quarried wall to the right. The abseil point for the Road Rage Wall is a staple situated on a large boulder on the cliff-top, in front of a pile of waste stone. About 30m north of this is a short block wall set back from the cliff edge where abseil bolts for the Bariatric Buttress can be found.

Cheyne Cliff - From the limited parking spot by Cheyne House descend the coast path then turn left (looking out) along the cliff edge, towards a small quarry. After 10m drop down a steep scree slope (care needed) and trend leftwards (looking out]) down this to reach the edge of the very high main cliff. The Road Rage Wall and Bariatric Buttress are accessible by abseil from Dungecroft Quarry.

Neddyfields Main Cliff and Bouldering Wall - From the limited parking spot walk 200m down the coast path to where the long bouldering wall will appear on the right (2 mins from the road). The Main Cliff lies directly below the bouldering wall. Use a good steep track which cuts back left (looking out) along the cliff base, opposite the far end of the bouldering wall.

Godnor Far North - Descend to the beach boulders as for the Neddyfields Main Cliff. Then head right (looking out) for 150m along the beach, past a large outfall pipe (no climbing on the pipe cliff) to where the main crag starts. The boulders can be greasy and eventually they become tidal. Do not abseil in or take short cuts due to rare fauna.

The Nook - From the limited parking spot at Neddyfields walk 25 metres down the track and turn left onto the middle ledge of a small quarry. Follow this leftwards, the crag is just around the headland - 1 minute.

Dorset Bouldering (2015), Dorset (2012), South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Forebodingf6B 8
3Hari-kirif6C 5
4Great Bearf6A *37
5Little Bearf5 71
6Solar Stonef7A+ *5
7Indian Summerf6C **14
8Totem Polef4 **155
9Papoosef6A *58
10Wampumf6C *5
11Vacillatef6C *20
12Jimbo's Wallf7C *2
13Jimbo's Right Handf7B+ *4
14Pock Markf7B+ *10
15ProsthesisV3 *7
16Colossusf7A *7
17Stoic Existencef6C *19
18Fontanelf7A+ *8
19The Flakef6B **60
20Pete's Groovef7A *21
21Taming the Flowf5 ***104
22Fountain of Youthf3+ ***195
23StolidV0- *53
24Stopcockf4 *172
25ProtozoaV0- *54
26Amoeba Statef5 *87
27The Arete (eliminate version)V3 *18
28The Aretef7A **26
29Ripplesf5+ ***100
30Razorf6C **5
31Pete's Ribf7A+ ***29
32Stairway Directf6A *52
33Stairwayf4+ *102
34Touched by Godf7A+ **2
35The CrackV0- 37
36Quick Stepf4+ *110
37The Mantel Piecef3+ *126
38Close Encountersf7B+ **3
39The Groovef7A **44
40Straight and Narrowf6C *8
41Diversionf6A *47
42The Podf4+ *105
43The pod escapeV0 30
44Disenchantedf7A 4
45Chocolate Orangef7C *4
46Savage Traversef7B+ *2
47Janusf7A *3
49Portland Exclusion Zone6c 2
50Leonardo6a+ 2
51Mona Lisa5c 4
52Whitestones3+ 4
53Corner TwinS 2
54Corner WallHVD 3
55Slab and CrackHVD 2
56SidewalkerHS 4a 2
57Anvil PointHS 4b 2
58Chimney BreakS 1
59The Good Life5c **11
60Breakover Crack DirectE1 5b *1
61Enter Shakari6c 5
62The GatesVS 4c 1
63Dusky CornerVD 1
64Corner DirectHS 4a 1
65The Oh-No VariantE2 5b 1
67Small but Perfectly Formed6a *10
68Big Slab Variant4c *7
69Big SlabVD 1
70Unnamed6a+ *2
71CrackersHS 4a 1
72Crow's Nest CornerVD 4
73Loving the Moment6a 1
74Crow's Nest DirectHS 1
75Euphemism6b *6
76Prisoners Of Gravity6b *2
77Island In The Sun6a *5
78DefianceS 1
79Private World6a 6
80Stress Test6a 5
82Remember Blair PeachHVS 4c/5a 1
83Gi' It Laldy6c *4
84Harpies and Quines6b+ **49
85Any Day Mike?7b+ *5
86One Day, James6b+ *41
87Pathfinder6b *80
88Snatch SquadHS 4b 4
89Sidewinder6a 177
90Dreamscape6a *226
91Dreamscape Direct6b *74
92Ben5a *386
93Willem5a *435
94Jasper4c *520
95Jody Sunshine4c *395
96Wave Warrior4c *503
97Valerie's Patio3 474
98Garden Party6a *88
99Starbuck6a 226
100Last Human6c 58
101Tin Man5c *191
102Rubber TruncheonHS 4b 1
103Tombstone3+ **621
104Where Silence Has Lease6c **99
105Wedding Daze6b *180
106Future Imperfect6a+ **377
107Jacob's Ladder5a **555
108The Truth is Out There6b **268
109Resistance is Futile7a+ *79
110Car Parts, Bottles and Cutlery6b+ *58
111Factor 156a+ *79
112Net Asset5c 56
113Kung Fu Panda4a *151
114Nonnie and the Pulp Fiction Tantrum4c *136
115Not Worth BoltingVS 4c 2
117Return of the Rice Bandit6a 22
118Midday Massacre5a 49
119La Fievre Spiteuse5c 42
120Lucy's off the Wall5a 255
121Nothing's Shocking6a+ *210
122First Contact6b *137
123Brace Yourself Sheila5a *330
124Conquistadors of the Useless6c *51
125Small Object of Desire6a+ *72
126Annapurna, Mon Amour6a+ 38
127The Accelerator7a *279
128Nameless6c *124
129Born To Hunt6c *39
130Thick as Thieves6c 38
131Franks EffortHS 4a 6
132Three in a Bed5c *255
133Steve's WallVS 4b 4
134I wish I was in Steve's Shoe's5c 132
135Felix Navidad6a+ *154
136Infelicity6a 179
137Milly Vanilly6a 135
138Books Across the Sea6a 95
139Puppet Show of Memory6a 93
140InertiaVS 4b/c 4
141Damn These Electric Sex Pants6a+ 92
142Kate6b+ 44
143Wonderlust6b **307
144IntimidationE1 5b 2
145Shit Route7a 45
146Julie Ocean6c+ **170
147Northern Invasion7a 21
148Bigus Dickus6b 42
149Lugwiler's Dismal Itch6c *103
150Ecosystem6b+ *168
151Time of the Month6b+ *215
152Inception5c *470
153The Screwfix Escourt Agency6a+ *144
154The ScoopS 4a 11
155Better ThingsHS 4a 7
156Ocean Boulevard4c *476
157Outside LeftS 4a 28
158Bundle of Joy4a *210
159Crush With EyelinerE1 5b 14
160Sunday RakeS 4a 27
161Spider CracksHVS 5a 6
162The Wilsonator6b 7
163Jobby's Leaving gift5b 12
164Joe Stole My Route5b 6
165Butterfly CrackS 4a 10
167Blunt AreteV1 20
168Sharpe AreteV0 21
169The Herb DebateV2 17
170Jurassic CrackV1 23
171The Banana QuestionV2 15
172Finger the BeaverV1 19
173Mrs BeaverV2 12
174Mr BeaverV5 8
175Ms BeaverV3 13
176Sweaty Gym SocksVB 18
177Squeeze the BeaverV1 14
178The Ramp to NowhereV0 15
180Leering Crack5a 26
181Air Kisses6c *17
182My Pashminas Got Caught in the Gri Gri6a 39
183East Side Story5c 53
184Chill Dementia4c 67
185Sinister Dexter6a+ *29
186Bring Me Sunshine6a 40
187Its a God Awful Small Affair2 39
188Jugs of JoyHVD 17
190Mirror of the Sea6c *8
191Silver-studded Blue6b *36
192Raptor6c *16
193Drowning on Dry Land6c **75
194Rocket from the Crypt7a+ **44
195Coralized7b+ **19
196Heartbeats7a+ *14
197Van Life7a+ **9
198The Pigskin Bus Pulls Into Tuna Town6a *99
199Dutch Courage6c *43
200Found Under Carnal Knowledge7a *8
201Fireblade7b+ **5
202Dynomite7c+ **1
203Pandemonium7c+ **2
204Poisoned Bamboo7c **1
205No Turn Unstoned7a **23
206Cruise Control6a+ **87
207Road Rage7b+ ***94
208Detonator7c **3
209Illusions7c ***10
210Yesterday's Dreams7b+ **6
211Remerberance Sunday6b+ *10
212Italian Eighth6b+ *10
213Threatening Speedos6c+ 6
214Pouch of Douglas5a *15
215Bariatric4a 15
217A Ying and a Yang and a Yippiedeedoo5c *33
218The Lesser of Two Weevils6b+ *19
219Wind Dog6b *22
220Never Ignore A Pooh-Pooh2+ 58
221Trust me I'm a Doctor3 51
222T-Muffhundred4c 59
223Sping Nol4c *71
224Julio's Ropeladder6a+ *41
225Die Screaming with Sharp Things in your Head5c *90
226Ultrasonic Shoulder6a+ *40
227Death Star Canteen5c *43
228Crazy Old Hippies4c *126
229Crowbar Assassin6a+ 28
230Covert Strike6b *17
231The Epicurean Paradox6b+ *14
232Dungecroft Delight5a *87
233The Alpha and The Omega3+ *104
234Dirty Bertie4c 52
235Doris Does Dungecroft3 52
236Hayabusa6a 45
237Fix It Duck6b 33
238We Apologise for the Inconvenience5a 63
239Gecko Wall6a 24
240Wall Lizard6c+ 18
241The Cookie Monster3 85
242Make Cookies Not War4a *99
243Rai6a 43
244Julia6a 53
245Peace6a+ 21
246Love6c 12
247Return of the Gecko6c 9
248I Learned to Swim at Dunkirk4c 14
249Well'Ard7a+ 6
250Little Terror5a *28
251Blood on the Rocks6a *21
252The Clicking of Her Needles Spelled Doom6b+ *6
253Viagra Wall6c+ 1
254Can You See Scratchy Bottom?6a+ 16
255Dad Gets Another Monkey Bite2 37
256Truly, Madly, Steeply7b *7
257Heroes of Swanage5c 33
258Heroes of Portland6b 5
259Lifesigns7a+ 1
260Sex, Lies and Videotape7a 3
261Last Ditch Effort5b 7
262Buzzin'6b+ 4
263HevizV2 *10
264Mr FudgeV2 **10
265Why NotV0- 11
266Ginger JihadVB 9
267Lucky PantsVB 10
268Cake or DeathV1 8
269Read The Sign5b 7
270The Hangover6a 7
271Suspiria de Profundis6b 2
272Slap and Tickle6a+ 5
274Fallen Angel5a 8
275Heavens Above7b 1
276Heaven TraverseE2 5b 1
277Tug on This Jody7a 7
278Look West & Find Salvation7a+ 6
279Quite Nice Actually6b+ 5
280Even Nicer6b 3
281Little Pinky6b+ 6
282Drilling in the Name6b+ *22
283Robin Crack5a *43
284Birdie Num Num6c+  
285Clamped Aggression6b+ *6
286Back Door to Heavenf6B 1
287Return to Senderf6C 1
288Heaven Sentf7A 1
289Straight to Heavenf7A+ 1
290Garden Forcef5 6
291Bastard Crack7a 2
292Plystalker7c 3
293No Chutney on His Ferret5c 15
294LR Traversef6A 2
295Chapter and Verse6a 38
296Oatsheaf, Chief5c 19
297Training for Hubble6a+ *37
298The Stoning of St. Stephen7b+ **8
299Mono y Mono7a+ *1
300Cadwallader6b+ *43
301Redundancy CrackE1 5b 15
302The Martyr7a+ **6
303The Secret Garden6b+ *47
304The Beauty of Decay6b+ 17
305Tactical Nuclear Penguin6b 12
306SlugE1 5b 4
307Flake Away4a 125
308Portrait of a Lady6c+ 21
309Flaked Out4c 99
310Echoes Of Trad4c 69
311Test Pilot6a *113
312Primordial6a+ *49
313Touch The Earth7a 22
314Constant Companion5a 28
315Promethean Flame6a 1
316The Lost Domain6a 19
317Lush5c *24
318Head in a Bush3+ 26
319The Angel from my Nightmare3 23
320Sweet Dreams Are Made of This3+ 110
3214, 8, 15, 16, 23, 424c 97
322Rhys Gets Another Monkey Bite5a 104
323Not the Same Mistake Again Kath5c 99
324Plastic Tractor3+ 75
325Dude, Where's My Car?S 13
326Enjoy My Experience6c+ 4
327Curved AirV0 2
328Pit BullV3 2
329No Fee RequiredVB 2
330Constant GardeningVB 2
331Faith, Hope, No CharityVB 2
332Not for the Faint HeartedV0 2
333Scene of the CrimeV4 2
334Killer AppV4 **2
335Covert OpsV3 *2
336Crazy TaxiV3 2
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FOR ANYONE THINKING OF HEADING TO CHEYNE WEARES AREA BE AWARE Large amounts of rock have fallen from Cheyne cliff. Almost all of the Coralized area at Cheyne cliff collapsed today. coast guard and bmc have been notified. DO NOT CLIMB HERE. the remaining cliff looks incredibly unstable in a lot of areas, please do not climb here until it has been inspected etc etc it is very very dangerous. I believe local authorities will be closing the area underneath the cliff for safety reasons. spread the word
David Clover - 24/Aug/14