Cheyne Wears Area

Climbs 311 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 12m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features


Large amounts of rock have fallen from Cheyne cliff. Almost all of the

Coralized area at Cheyne cliff collapsed today. coast guard and bmc have

been notified. DO NOT CLIMB HERE. the remaining cliff looks incredibly

unstable in a lot of areas, please do not climb here until it has been

inspected etc it is very dangerous. 24/08/2014

In addition there has been some slippage at the bottom of the small crag at the far end of Neddyfields main cliff. In particular access to climbs between 'Return of the Rice Bandit' and 'La Fievre Spiteuse' is extremely unstable, and access to the other climbs involves dodgy ground and/or high first bolts.

7 September 2014


The section of coast line near Southwell, and the large Cheyne Weares car park, has a number of different cliffs which offer very contrasting styles and grades of climbing on a variety of rock features. Godnor Far North has been developed into a low to mid-grade sport route playground down by the sea and the Neddyfields Main Cliff offers routes in a similar vein. Both these cliffs were mainly developed by members of Basingstoke M.C. and they have become extremely popular although it should be noted that Neddyfields can be over-run by outdoor groups at times. The Lost Valley is an extremely sheltered location in a deep inland ravine with an eerie quiet atmosphere. It also suffers from ivy growth from time to time but this is usually cleared away by the locals especially now that it is been developed as a good hard bouldering venue as well. Dungecroft Quarry is also a sheltered venue containing short bouldery routes on high quality rock and a few easy boulder problems. There is more bouldering on the small vertical wall above the Neddyfields Main crag. The Nook is small sheltered venue on the way to Neddyfields with short routes and boulder problems, Portlands nearest crag to the road! The biggest crag in the area is Cheyne Cliff which looks scruffy from a distance but in fact harbours some fine flowstone faces and orange coral. The routes here are mainly for the fitter climber needing ultimate stamina tests. Possible restriction from 1 Feb to 31 August. Check ROCKFAX web site.

Access notes
The two main parking areas for these crags lie on the main road from Easton just before Southwell. The first is the main Cheyne Weares car park which is clearly marked. The second limited spot (5-6 cars) is in a short track, on the seaward side of the road, 300m south of Cheyne Weares car park, and also 300m north from Southwell. This track is adjacent to the isolated Cheyne House opposite a an ARC quarry entrance. A good coast path track leads south down from here to the cliff-top.

Lost Valley - From the main Cheyne Weares car park walk north (left -looking out) along a ridge for 250m which gives a view into a rocky ravine on the left engulfed in vegetation - this is the Lost Valley. Drop down a steep chute at the far end to gain the right-hand side of the cliff.

Dungecroft Quarry (and the Road Rage Wall) - From the main Cheyne Weares car park walk south (right - looking out) from the car park along a track down into a large disused quarry. The Dungecroft routes are along the quarried wall to the right. The abseil point for the Road Rage Wall is a staple situated on a large boulder on the cliff-top, in front of a pile of waste stone. About 30m north of this is a short block wall set back from the cliff edge where abseil bolts for the Bariatric Buttress can be found.

Cheyne Cliff - From the limited parking spot by Cheyne House descend the coast path then turn left (looking out) along the cliff edge, towards a small quarry. After 10m drop down a steep scree slope (care needed) and trend leftwards (looking out]) down this to reach the edge of the very high main cliff. The Road Rage Wall and Bariatric Buttress are accessible by abseil from Dungecroft Quarry.

Neddyfields Main Cliff and Bouldering Wall - From the limited parking spot walk 200m down the coast path to where the long bouldering wall will appear on the right (2 mins from the road). The Main Cliff lies directly below the bouldering wall. Use a good steep track which cuts back left (looking out) along the cliff base, opposite the far end of the bouldering wall.

Godnor Far North - Descend to the beach boulders as for the Neddyfields Main Cliff. Then head right (looking out) for 150m along the beach, past a large outfall pipe (no climbing on the pipe cliff) to where the main crag starts. The boulders can be greasy and eventually they become tidal. Do not abseil in or take short cuts due to rare fauna.

The Nook - From the limited parking spot at Neddyfields walk 25 metres down the track and turn left onto the middle ledge of a small quarry. Follow this leftwards, the crag is just around the headland - 1 minute.

South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Dorset (2012), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2ForebodingV4 6
3Hari-kiriV5 3
4Great BearV3 *36
5Little BearV1 70
6Solar StoneV7 *4
7Indian SummerV5 **13
8Totem PoleV0 **155
9PapooseV3 *58
10WampumV5 *4
11VacillateV5 *19
12Jimbo's WallV9 *2
13Jimbo's Right HandV8 *3
14Pock MarkV8 *10
15ProsthesisV3 *7
16ColossusV6 *6
17Stoic ExistenceV5 *18
18FontanelV7 *8
19The FlakeV4 **59
20Pete's GrooveV6 *21
21Taming the FlowV1 ***103
22Fountain of YouthV0- ***192
23StolidV0- *48
24StopcockV0 *169
25ProtozoaV0- *51
26Amoeba StateV1 *85
27The Arete (eliminate version)V3 *18
28The AreteV6 **26
29RipplesV2 ***100
30RazorV5 **3
31Pete's RibV7 ***28
32Stairway DirectV3 *52
33StairwayV0+ *102
34Touched by GodV7 **1
35The CrackV0- 37
36Quick StepV0+ *110
37The Mantel PieceV0- *126
38Close EncountersV8 **3
39The GrooveV6 **44
40Straight and NarrowV5 *7
41DiversionV3 *47
42The PodV0+ *105
43The pod escapeV0 30
44DisenchantedV6 4
45Chocolate OrangeV9 *3
46Savage TraverseV8 *2
47JanusV6 *3
49Portland Exclusion Zone6c+ 2
50Leonardo6a+ 2
51Mona Lisa5c 4
52Whitestones3+ 4
53Corner TwinS 2
54Corner WallHVD 3
55Slab and CrackHVD 2
56SidewalkerHS 4a 2
57Anvil PointHS 4b 1
58Chimney BreakS 1
59The Good Life5c **11
60Breakover Crack DirectE1 5b *1
61Enter Shakari6b 5
62The GatesVS 4c 1
63Dusky CornerVD 1
64Corner DirectHS 4a 1
65The Oh-No VariantE2 5b 1
67Small but Perfectly Formed6a *10
68Big Slab Variant3 *7
69Big SlabVD 1
70Unnamed6b 2
71CrackersHS 4a 1
72Crow's Nest CornerVD 3
73Loving the Moment6a 1
74Crow's Nest DirectHS 1
75Euphemism6b *6
76Prisoners Of Gravity6b *2
77Island In The Sun6a 5
78DefianceS 1
79Private World6a 6
80Stress Test6a 5
82Remember Blair PeachHVS 4c/5a 1
83Gi' It Laldy6c *4
84Harpies and Quines6b+ **47
85Any Day Mike?7b+ *5
86One Day, James6b+ *41
87Pathfinder6b *77
88Snatch SquadHS 4b 4
89Sidewinder6a 172
90Dreamscape6a *220
91Dreamscape Direct6b *73
92Ben5a *380
93Willem5a *430
94Jasper4c *505
95Jody Sunshine4c 385
96Wave Warrior4c 486
97Valerie's Patio3 455
98Garden Party6a 79
99Starbuck6a 211
100Last Human6c 58
101Tin Man5c 184
102Rubber TruncheonHS 4b 1
103Tombstone3+ **604
104Where Silence Has Lease6c **94
105Wedding Daze6b *176
106Future Imperfect6a+ **362
107Jacob's Ladder5a *539
108The Truth is Out There6b **258
109Resistance is Futile7a+ *78
110Car Parts, Bottles and Cutlery6b+ *58
111Factor 156a+ *77
112Net Asset5c 51
113Kung Fu Panda4a 143
114Nonnie and the Pulp Fiction Tantrum4c 129
115Not Worth BoltingVS 4c 2
117Return of the Rice Bandit6a 21
118Midday Massacre5a 49
119La Fievre Spiteuse5c 41
120Lucy's off the Wall5a 254
121Nothing's Shocking6a+ *209
122First Contact6b *136
123Brace Yourself Sheila5a *324
124Conquistadors of the Useless6c 48
125Small Object of Desire6a 57
126Annapurna, Mon Amour6a 32
127The Accelerator7a *257
128Nameless6c *118
129Born To Hunt6c 32
130Thick as Thieves6c 37
131Franks EffortHS 4a 6
132Three in a Bed5a 238
133Steve's WallVS 4b 4
134I wish I was in Steve's Shoe's5c 109
135Felix Navidad6a+ 121
136Infelicity6a 146
137Milly Vanilly6a+ 113
138Books Across the Sea6a 79
139Puppet Show of Memory6a 73
140InertiaVS 4b/c 4
141Damn These Electric Sex Pants6a+ 71
142Kate6b+ 34
143Wonderlust6b **276
144IntimidationE1 5b 2
145Shit Route7a 40
146Julie Ocean6c+ **155
147Northern Invasion7a 20
148Bigus Dickus6b 37
149Lugwiler's Dismal Itch6c *95
150Ecosystem6b+ *157
151Time of the Month6b *202
152Inception5c *444
153The Screwfix Escourt Agency6a 129
154The ScoopS 11
155Better ThingsHS 4a 6
156Ocean Boulevard4c *447
157Outside LeftS 25
158Bundle of Joy4a 187
159Crush With EyelinerE1 5b 14
160Sunday RakeS 26
161Spider CracksHVS 6
162Butterfly CrackS 9
164Blunt AreteV1 17
165Sharpe AreteV0 18
166The Herb DebateV2 16
167Jurassic CrackV1 19
168The Banana QuestionV2 14
169Finger the BeaverV1 17
170Mrs BeaverV2 12
171Mr BeaverV5 8
172Ms BeaverV3 12
173Sweaty Gym SocksVB 15
174Squeeze the BeaverV1 12
175The Ramp to NowhereV0 12
177Leering Crack5a 23
178Air Kisses6c 16
179My Pashminas Got Caught in the Gri Gri5c 35
180East Side Story5a 48
181Chill Dementia5a 60
182Sinister Dexter6b 27
183Bring Me Sunshine6a 37
184Its a God Awful Small Affair2 37
185Jugs of JoyHVD 17
187Mirror of the Sea6c *8
188Silver-studded Blue6b *35
189Raptor6c *16
190Drowning on Dry Land6c **73
191Rocket from the Crypt7a+ **43
192Coralized7b+ **19
193Heartbeats7a *14
194Van Life7a *9
195The Pigskin Bus Pulls Into Tuna Town6a *99
196Dutch Courage6c *43
197Found Under Carnal Knowledge7a *8
198Fireblade7b+ **5
199Dynomite7c+ **1
200Pandemonium7c+ **2
201Poisoned Bamboo7c *1
202No Turn Unstoned7a 20
203Cruise Control6a+ **86
204Road Rage7b+ ***92
205Detonator7c **3
206Illusions7c ***10
207Yesterday's Dreams7b+ **6
208Remerberance Sunday6b+ 10
209Italian Eighth6b+ *10
210Threatening Speedos6c+ *6
211Pouch of Douglas5c *15
212Bariatric4a 15
214A Ying and a Yang and a Yippiedeedoo5c *26
215The Lesser of Two Weevils6b+ 15
216Wind Dog6b 18
217Never Ignore A Pooh-Pooh2+ 46
218Trust me I'm a Doctor3 40
219T-Muffhundred5a 47
220Sping Nol4c *59
221Julio's Ropeladder6a+ 30
222Die Screaming with Sharp Things in your Head5a *86
223Ultrasonic Shoulder6a+ *38
224Death Star Canteen5c *38
225Crazy Old Hippies4c *107
226Crowbar Assassin6a+ 24
227Covert Strike6b *16
228The Epicurean Paradox6b+ *14
229Dungecroft Delight5a *77
230The Alpha and The Omega3+ *91
231Dirty Bertie4c 41
232Doris Does Dungecroft3 45
233Hayabusa6a 41
234Fix It Duck6b 26
235We Apologise for the Inconvenience5a 52
236Gecko Wall6a 23
237Wall Lizard6c+ 11
238The Cookie Monster3 75
239Make Cookies Not War4a 82
240Rai6a 38
241Julia6a 47
242Peace6a+ 17
243Love6c 10
244Return of the Gecko6c 5
245I Learned to Swim at Dunkirk4c 12
246Well'Ard7a+ 6
247Little Terror5a 26
248Blood on the Rocks6a 17
249The Clicking of Her Needles Spelled Doom6b+ 3
250Can You See Scratchy Bottom?6a+ 9
251Dad Gets Another Monkey Bite2 33
252Truly, Madly, Steeply7b *6
253Heroes of Swanage5c 23
254Heroes of Portland6b 5
255Lifesigns7a+ 1
256Sex, Lies and Videotape7a 3
257HevizV2 *10
258Mr FudgeV2 **10
259Why NotV0- 11
260Ginger JihadVB 9
261Lucky PantsVB 10
262Cake or DeathV1 8
264Fallen Angel5a 1
265Tug on This Jody7a *4
266Look West & Find Salvation7a+ *5
267Quite Nice Actually6b+ 4
268Little Pinky6b+ 4
269Drilling in the Name6b+ **15
270Robin Crack5c 30
271Clamped Aggression6b+ 6
272Back Door to HeavenV4 1
273Return to SenderV5 1
274Heaven SentV6 1
275Straight to HeavenV7 1
276Garden ForceV1 6
277Bastard Crack7a 2
278Plystalker7c 2
279No Chutney on His Ferret5c 13
280LR TraverseV3 2
281Chapter and Verse4a 31
282Oatsheaf, Chief4a 19
283Training for Hubble6a+ 36
284The Stoning of St. Stephen7b+ *7
285Mono y Mono7a+ *1
286Cadwallader6b+ 42
287Redundancy CrackE1 5b 15
288The Martyr7a+ *6
289The Secret Garden6b+ 39
290The Beauty of Decay6b+ 15
291Tactical Nuclear Penguin6b 11
292SlugE1 5b 4
293Flake Away4a 112
294Portrait of a Lady6c+ 17
295Flaked Out4c 90
296Echoes Of Trad4c 63
297Test Pilot6a 102
298Primordial6b 45
299Touch The Earth7a+ 21
300Constant Companion5a 25
301The Lost Domain6a 17
302Lush5c *12
303Head in a Bush3+ 18
304The Angel from my Nightmare3 16
305Sweet Dreams Are Made of This3+ 97
3064, 8, 15, 16, 23, 424c 88
307Rhys Gets Another Monkey Bite5a 91
308Not the Same Mistake Again Kath5a 83
309Plastic Tractor3 70
310Dude, Where's My Car?S 13
311Enjoy My Experience6c+ *4
312Curved AirV0 2
313Pit BullV3 2
314No Fee RequiredVB 2
315Constant GardeningVB 2
316Faith, Hope, No CharityVB 2
317Not for the Faint HeartedV0 2
318Scene of the CrimeV4 2
319Killer AppV4 **2
320Covert OpsV3 *2
321Crazy TaxiV3 2
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
FOR ANYONE THINKING OF HEADING TO CHEYNE WEARES AREA BE AWARE Large amounts of rock have fallen from Cheyne cliff. Almost all of the Coralized area at Cheyne cliff collapsed today. coast guard and bmc have been notified. DO NOT CLIMB HERE. the remaining cliff looks incredibly unstable in a lot of areas, please do not climb here until it has been inspected etc etc it is very very dangerous. I believe local authorities will be closing the area underneath the cliff for safety reasons. spread the word
David Clover - 24/Aug/14