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These details were last updated on 16/Mar/2011

Cheyne Wears Area

Dorset, ENGLAND

Climbs 310 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 12m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
The section of coast line near Southwell, and the large Cheyne Weares car park, has a number of different cliffs which offer very contrasting styles and grades of climbing on a variety of rock features. Godnor Far North has been developed into a low to mid-grade sport route playground down by the sea and the Neddyfields Main Cliff offers routes in a similar vein. Both these cliffs were mainly developed by members of Basingstoke M.C. and they have become extremely popular although it should be noted that Neddyfields can be over-run by outdoor groups at times. The Lost Valley is an extremely sheltered location in a deep inland ravine with an eerie quiet atmosphere. It also suffers from ivy growth from time to time but this is usually cleared away by the locals especially now that it is been developed as a good hard bouldering venue as well. Dungecroft Quarry is also a sheltered venue containing short bouldery routes on high quality rock and a few easy boulder problems. There is more bouldering on the small vertical wall above the Neddyfields Main crag. The Nook is small sheltered venue on the way to Neddyfields with short routes and boulder problems, Portlands nearest crag to the road! The biggest crag in the area is Cheyne Cliff which looks scruffy from a distance but in fact harbours some fine flowstone faces and orange coral. The routes here are mainly for the fitter climber needing ultimate stamina tests. Possible restriction from 1 Feb to 31 August. Check ROCKFAX web site.

Weather forecast

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0.0mm rain
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9 °C
20 kph

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11 °C
31 kph

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12 °C
29 kph

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Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Dorset (2012), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 NEDDYFIELDS BOULDERING  
2ForebodingV4 5
3Hari-kiriV5 2
4Great BearV3 *35
5Little BearV1 65
6Solar StoneV7 *4
7Indian SummerV5 **12
8Totem PoleV0 **143
9PapooseV3 *55
10WampumV5 *4
11VacillateV5 *18
12Jimbo's WallV9 *1
13Jimbo's Right HandV8 *3
14Pock MarkV8 *9
15ProsthesisV3 *6
16ColossusV6 *6
17Stoic ExistenceV5 *17
18FontanelV7 *7
19The FlakeV4 **54
20Pete's GrooveV6 *21
21Taming the FlowV1 ***99
22Fountain of YouthV0- ***188
23StolidV0- *45
24StopcockV0 *159
25ProtozoaV0- *49
26Amoeba StateV1 *82
27The Arete (eliminate version)V3 *16
28The AreteV6 **25
29RipplesV2 ***95
30RazorV5 **3
31Pete's RibV7 ***27
32Stairway DirectV3 *49
33StairwayV0+ *97
34Touched by GodV7 **1
35The CrackV0- 33
36Quick StepV0+ *108
37The Mantel PieceV0- *121
38Close EncountersV8 **3
39The GrooveV6 **41
40Straight and NarrowV5 *7
41DiversionV3 *43
42The PodV0+ *100
43The pod escapeV0 29
44DisenchantedV6 4
45Chocolate OrangeV9 *3
46Savage TraverseV8 *2
47JanusV6 *2
 GODNOR SOUTH  
49Portland Exclusion Zone6c+  
50Leonardo6a+  
51Mona Lisa5+ 3
52Whitestones3+ 3
53Corner TwinS 2
54Corner WallHVD 3
55Slab and CrackHVD 2
56SidewalkerHS 4a 2
57Anvil PointHS 4b 1
58Chimney BreakS 1
59The Good Life5+ **10
60Breakover Crack DirectE1 5b *1
61Enter Shakari6b 5
62The GatesVS 4c 1
63Dusky CornerVD 1
64Corner DirectHS 4a 1
65The Oh-No VariantE2 5b 1
 GODNOR NORTH  
67Small but Perfectly Formed6a *10
68Big Slab Variant3 *7
69Big SlabVD 1
70Unnamed6b 2
71CrackersHS 4a 1
72Crow's Nest CornerVD 3
73Loving the Moment6a 1
74Crow's Nest DirectHS 1
75Euphemism6b *6
76Prisoners Of Gravity6b *2
77Island In The Sun6a 4
78DefianceS 1
79Private World6a 6
80Stress Test6a 5
 GODNOR FAR NORTH  
82Remember Blair PeachHVS 4c/5a 1
83Gi' It Laldy6c *4
84Harpies and Quines6b+ **40
85Any Day Mike?7b+ *4
86One Day, James6b+ *36
87Pathfinder6b *68
88Snatch SquadHS 4b 4
89Sidewinder6a 158
90Dreamscape6a *201
91Dreamscape Direct6b *73
92Ben5 *346
93Willem5 *404
94Jasper4+ *472
95Jody Sunshine4+ 352
96Wave Warrior4+ 431
97Valerie's Patio3 411
98Garden Party6a 65
99Starbuck6a 191
100Last Human6c 53
101Tin Man5+ 165
102Rubber TruncheonHS 4b 1
103Tombstone3+ **548
104Where Silence Has Lease6c **85
105Wedding Daze6b *166
106Future Imperfect6a+ **335
107Jacob's Ladder5 *493
108The Truth is Out There6b **233
109Resistance is Futile7a+ *70
110Car Parts, Bottles and Cutlery6b+ *49
111Factor 156a+ *72
112Net Asset5+ 40
113Kung Fu Panda4 106
114Nonnie and the Pulp Fiction Tantrum4+ 107
115Not Worth BoltingVS 4c 2
 NEDDYFIELDS MAIN CLIFF  
117Return of the Rice Bandit6a 21
118Midday Massacre5 48
119La Fievre Spiteuse5+ 40
120Lucy's off the Wall5 251
121Nothing's Shocking6a+ *205
122First Contact6b *133
123Brace Yourself Sheila5 *313
124Conquistadors of the Useless6c 45
125Small Object of Desire6a 55
126Annapurna, Mon Amour6a 31
127The Accelerator7a *230
128Nameless6c *112
129Born To Hunt6c 26
130Thick as Thieves6c 36
131Franks EffortHS 4a 6
132Three in a Bed5 216
133Steve's WallVS 4b 4
134I wish I was in Steve's Shoe's5+ 88
135Felix Navidad6a+ 102
136Infelicity6a 128
137Milly Vanilly6a+ 100
138Books Across the Sea6a 69
139Puppet Show of Memory6a 64
140InertiaVS 4b/c 4
141Damn These Electric Sex Pants6a+ 62
142Kate6b+ 29
143Wonderlust6b **248
144IntimidationE1 5b 2
145Shit Route7a 33
146Julie Ocean6c+ **138
147Northern Invasion7a 12
148Bigus Dickus6b 27
149Lugwiler's Dismal Itch6c *82
150Ecosystem6b+ *144
151Time of the Month6b *187
152Inception5+ *421
153The Screwfix Escourt Agency6a 111
154The ScoopS 9
155Better ThingsHS 4a 6
156Ocean Boulevard4+ *410
157Outside LeftS 22
158Bundle of Joy4 151
159Crush With EyelinerE1 5b 14
160Sunday RakeS 23
 Climb nameGradex
161Spider CracksHVS 6
162Butterfly CrackS 9
 THE NOOK QUARRY BOULDERING  
164Blunt AreteV1 17
165Sharpe AreteV0 18
166The Herb DebateV2 16
167Jurassic CrackV1 19
168The Banana QuestionV2 14
169Finger the BeaverV1 17
170Mrs BeaverV2 12
171Mr BeaverV5 8
172Ms BeaverV3 12
173Sweaty Gym SocksVB 15
174Squeeze the BeaverV1 12
175The Ramp to NowhereV0 12
 THE NOOK  
177Leering Crack5 22
178Air Kisses6c 14
179My Pashminas Got Caught in the Gri Gri5+ 32
180East Side Story5 41
181Chill Dementia5 48
182Sinister Dexter6b 26
183Bring Me Sunshine6a 36
184Its a God Awful Small Affair2 32
185Jugs of JoyHVD 17
 CHEYNE CLIFF  
187Mirror of the Sea6c *8
188Silver-studded Blue6b *35
189Raptor6c *16
190Drowning on Dry Land6c **73
191Rocket from the Crypt7a+ **43
192Coralized7b+ **17
193Heartbeats7a *12
194Van Life7a *9
195The Pigskin Bus Pulls Into Tuna Town6a *98
196Dutch Courage6c *42
197Found Under Carnal Knowledge7a *8
198Fireblade7b+ **5
199Dynomite7c+ **1
200Pandemonium7c+ **2
201Poisoned Bamboo7c *1
202No Turn Unstoned7a 19
203Cruise Control6a+ **82
204Road Rage7b+ ***85
205Detonator7c **2
206Illusions7c ***9
207Yesterday's Dreams7b+ **6
208Remerberance Sunday6b+ 10
209Italian Eighth6b+ *10
210Threatening Speedos6c+ *6
211Pouch of Douglas5+ *15
212Bariatric4 15
 DUNGECROFT QUARRY  
214A Ying and a Yang and a Yippiedeedoo5+ *23
215The Lesser of Two Weevils6b+ 14
216Wind Dog6b 15
217Never Ignore A Pooh-Pooh2+ 41
218Trust me I'm a Doctor3 36
219T-Muffhundred5 38
220Sping Nol4+ *48
221Julio's Ropeladder6a+ 22
222Die Screaming with Sharp Things in your Head5 *72
223Ultrasonic Shoulder6a+ *34
224Death Star Canteen5+ *32
225Crazy Old Hippies4+ *94
226Crowbar Assassin6a+ 22
227Covert Strike6b *16
228The Epicurean Paradox6b+ *14
229Dungecroft Delight5 *69
230The Alpha and The Omega3+ *84
231Dirty Bertie4+ 36
232Doris Does Dungecroft3 41
233Hayabusa6a 32
234Fix It Duck6b 18
235We Apologise for the Inconvenience5 44
236Gecko Wall6a 19
237Wall Lizard6c+ 10
238The Cookie Monster3 60
239Make Cookies Not War4 65
240Rai6a 30
241Julia6a 33
242Peace6a+ 17
243Love6c 10
244Return of the Gecko6c 5
245I Learned to Swim at Dunkirk4+ 11
246Well'Ard7a+ 6
247Little Terror5 21
248Blood on the Rocks6a 11
249The Clicking of Her Needles Spelled Doom6b+ 3
250Can You See Scratchy Bottom?6a+ 6
251Dad Gets Another Monkey Bite2 30
252Truly, Madly, Steeply7b *6
253Heroes of Swanage5+ 17
254Heroes of Portland6b 5
255Lifesigns7a+ 1
256Sex, Lies and Videotape7a 4
257HevizV2 *10
258Mr FudgeV2 **10
259Why NotV0- 11
260Ginger JihadVB 9
261Lucky PantsVB 10
262Cake or DeathV1 8
 THE LOST VALLEY  
264Tug on This Jody7a *4
265Look West & Find Salvation7a+ *3
266Quite Nice Actually6b+ 4
267Little Pinky6b+ 4
268Drilling in the Name6b+ **12
269Robin Crack5+ 28
270Clamped Aggression6b+ 6
271Back Door to HeavenV4 1
272Return to SenderV5 1
273Heaven SentV6 1
274Straight to HeavenV7 1
275Garden ForceV1 6
276Bastard Crack7a 2
277Plystalker7c 2
278No Chutney on His Ferret5+ 12
279LR TraverseV3 2
280Chapter and Verse4 26
281Oatsheaf, Chief4 17
282Training for Hubble6a+ 33
283The Stoning of St. Stephen7b+ *6
284Mono y Mono7a+ *1
285Cadwallader6b+ 39
286Redundancy CrackE1 5b 15
287The Martyr7a+ *6
288The Secret Garden6b+ 29
289The Beauty of Decay6b+ 13
290SlugE1 5b 1
291Flake Away4 98
292Portrait of a Lady6c+ 15
293Flaked Out4+ 82
294Echoes Of Trad4+ 55
295Test Pilot6a 93
296Primordial6b 39
297Touch The Earth7a+ 20
298Constant Companion5 25
299The Lost Domain6a 13
300Lush5+ *3
301Head in a Bush3+ 3
302The Angel from my Nightmare3 3
303Sweet Dreams Are Made of This3+ 85
3044, 8, 15, 16, 23, 424+ 80
305Rhys Gets Another Monkey Bite5 80
306Not the Same Mistake Again Kath5 71
307Plastic Tractor3 61
308Dude, Where's My Car?S 13
309Enjoy My Experience6c+ *2
310Curved AirV0 2
311Pit BullV3 2
312No Fee RequiredVB 2
313Constant GardeningVB 2
314Faith, Hope, No CharityVB 2
315Not for the Faint HeartedV0 2
316Scene of the CrimeV4 2
317Killer AppV4 **2
318Covert OpsV3 *2
319Crazy TaxiV3 2
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Access notes
The two main parking areas for these crags lie on the main road from Easton just before Southwell. The first is the main Cheyne Weares car park which is clearly marked. The second limited spot (5-6 cars) is in a short track, on the seaward side of the road, 300m south of Cheyne Weares car park, and also 300m north from Southwell. This track is adjacent to the isolated Cheyne House opposite a an ARC quarry entrance. A good coast path track leads south down from here to the cliff-top.

Lost Valley - From the main Cheyne Weares car park walk north (left -looking out) along a ridge for 250m which gives a view into a rocky ravine on the left engulfed in vegetation - this is the Lost Valley. Drop down a steep chute at the far end to gain the right-hand side of the cliff.

Dungecroft Quarry (and the Road Rage Wall) - From the main Cheyne Weares car park walk south (right - looking out) from the car park along a track down into a large disused quarry. The Dungecroft routes are along the quarried wall to the right. The abseil point for the Road Rage Wall is a staple situated on a large boulder on the cliff-top, in front of a pile of waste stone. About 30m north of this is a short block wall set back from the cliff edge where abseil bolts for the Bariatric Buttress can be found.

Cheyne Cliff - From the limited parking spot by Cheyne House descend the coast path then turn left (looking out) along the cliff edge, towards a small quarry. After 10m drop down a steep scree slope (care needed) and trend leftwards (looking out]) down this to reach the edge of the very high main cliff. The Road Rage Wall and Bariatric Buttress are accessible by abseil from Dungecroft Quarry.

Neddyfields Main Cliff and Bouldering Wall - From the limited parking spot walk 200m down the coast path to where the long bouldering wall will appear on the right (2 mins from the road). The Main Cliff lies directly below the bouldering wall. Use a good steep track which cuts back left (looking out) along the cliff base, opposite the far end of the bouldering wall.

Godnor Far North - Descend to the beach boulders as for the Neddyfields Main Cliff. Then head right (looking out) for 150m along the beach, past a large outfall pipe (no climbing on the pipe cliff) to where the main crag starts. The boulders can be greasy and eventually they become tidal. Do not abseil in or take short cuts due to rare fauna.

The Nook - From the limited parking spot at Neddyfields walk 25 metres down the track and turn left onto the middle ledge of a small quarry. Follow this leftwards, the crag is just around the headland - 1 minute.

Classifieds
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