Climbs 366
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 12m a.s.l
Faces E

Rik on Small but Perfectly Formed - 6a, Cheyne Wears © Brian H

Crag features


24 September 2014

Large amounts of rock have fallen from Cheyne cliff. Almost all of the Coralized area at Cheyne cliff collapsed today. coast guard and bmc have been notified. DO NOT CLIMB HERE. the remaining cliff looks incredibly unstable in a lot of areas, please do not climb here until it has been inspected etc it is very dangerous.

In addition there has been some slippage at the bottom of the small crag at the far end of Neddyfields main cliff. In particular access to climbs between 'Return of the Rice Bandit' and 'La Fievre Spiteuse' is extremely unstable, and access to the other climbs involves dodgy ground and/or high first bolts.

7 September 2014

The section of coast line near Southwell, and the large Cheyne Weares car park, has a number of different cliffs which offer very contrasting styles and grades of climbing on a variety of rock features. Godnor Far North has been developed into a low to mid-grade sport route playground down by the sea and the Neddyfields Main Cliff offers routes in a similar vein. Both these cliffs were mainly developed by members of Basingstoke M.C. and they have become extremely popular although it should be noted that Neddyfields can be over-run by outdoor groups at times. The Lost Valley is an extremely sheltered location in a deep inland ravine with an eerie quiet atmosphere. It also suffers from ivy growth from time to time but this is usually cleared away by the locals especially now that it is been developed as a good hard bouldering venue as well. Dungecroft Quarry is also a sheltered venue containing short bouldery routes on high quality rock and a few easy boulder problems. There is more bouldering on the small vertical wall above the Neddyfields Main crag. The Nook is small sheltered venue on the way to Neddyfields with short routes and boulder problems, Portlands nearest crag to the road! The biggest crag in the area is Cheyne Cliff which looks scruffy from a distance but in fact harbours some fine flowstone faces and orange coral. The routes here are mainly for the fitter climber needing ultimate stamina tests. Possible restriction from 1 Feb to 31 August. Check ROCKFAX web site.

Approach notes

The two main parking areas for these crags lie on the main road from Easton just before Southwell. The first is the main Cheyne Weares car park which is clearly marked. The second limited spot (5-6 cars) is in a short track, on the seaward side of the road, 300m south of Cheyne Weares car park, and also 300m north from Southwell. This track is adjacent to the isolated Cheyne House opposite a an ARC quarry entrance. A good coast path track leads south down from here to the cliff-top.

Lost Valley - From the main Cheyne Weares car park walk north (left -looking out) along a ridge for 250m which gives a view into a rocky ravine on the left engulfed in vegetation - this is the Lost Valley. Drop down a steep chute at the far end to gain the right-hand side of the cliff.

Dungecroft Quarry (and the Road Rage Wall) - From the main Cheyne Weares car park walk south (right - looking out) from the car park along a track down into a large disused quarry. The Dungecroft routes are along the quarried wall to the right. The abseil point for the Road Rage Wall is a staple situated on a large boulder on the cliff-top, in front of a pile of waste stone. About 30m north of this is a short block wall set back from the cliff edge where abseil bolts for the Bariatric Buttress can be found.

Cheyne Cliff - From the limited parking spot by Cheyne House descend the coast path then turn left (looking out) along the cliff edge, towards a small quarry. After 10m drop down a steep scree slope (care needed) and trend leftwards (looking out]) down this to reach the edge of the very high main cliff. The Road Rage Wall and Bariatric Buttress are accessible by abseil from Dungecroft Quarry.

Neddyfields Main Cliff and Bouldering Wall - From the limited parking spot walk 200m down the coast path to where the long bouldering wall will appear on the right (2 mins from the road). The Main Cliff lies directly below the bouldering wall. Use a good steep track which cuts back left (looking out) along the cliff base, opposite the far end of the bouldering wall.

Godnor Far North - Descend to the beach boulders as for the Neddyfields Main Cliff. Then head right (looking out) for 150m along the beach, past a large outfall pipe (no climbing on the pipe cliff) to where the main crag starts. The boulders can be greasy and eventually they become tidal. Do not abseil in or take short cuts due to rare fauna.

The Nook - From the limited parking spot at Neddyfields walk 25 metres down the track and turn left onto the middle ledge of a small quarry. Follow this leftwards, the crag is just around the headland - 1 minute.

Access Advice

Restrictions apply from  1 March - 30 June. Reason - Nesting Birds

The agreed nesting restriction applies between 'Mirror Of The Sea' to 'Van Life' as well as to the whole of the small recently developed area of crag known as 'The Nook' - look out for on-site signing.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info


The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
FOR ANYONE THINKING OF HEADING TO CHEYNE WEARES AREA BE AWARE Large amounts of rock have fallen from Cheyne cliff. Almost all of the Coralized area at Cheyne cliff collapsed today. coast guard and bmc have been notified. DO NOT CLIMB HERE. the remaining cliff looks incredibly unstable in a lot of areas, please do not climb here until it has been inspected etc etc it is very very dangerous. I believe local authorities will be closing the area underneath the cliff for safety reasons. spread the word
David Clover - 24/Aug/14
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Neddyfields Bouldering Wall
3Hari-kirif6B+ *
4Psychof6B+ **
5Bearing Allf6A *
6Great Bearf5+ *
7Little Bearf4+
9Shtinkenminkenguffenpuffs, Sit-startf7A+ **
10Solar Stonef7A+ **
11Indian Summerf6B *
12Totem Polef4+ **
13Papoosef6A *
14Wampumf6C *
15Vacillatef6B+ *
16Jimbo's Wallf7B **
17Jimbo's Right Handf7B **
18Pock Markf7A+ **
19Prosthesisf6B *
20Prosthesis, Sit-startf6C *
21Colossusf6B+ *
22Colossus, Sit-startf6C+ *
23Stoic Existencef6B+ **
24Fontanelf7A *
25The Flakef6A **
26The Flake, Sit-startf6A+ **
27Flake Outf6B *
28Flake Out, Sit-startf6B+ *
29Local Peoplef7A
30Pete's Groovef7A *
31Taming the Flowf6B **
32Fountain of Youthf5+ ***
33Stolidf4 **
34Stopcockf4+ *
35Protozoaf3+ *
36Amoeba Statef5+ *
37The Arete (eliminate version)f6A *
38The Aretef6A+ **
39Savage Traversef7A+ *
40The Arete Directf6C **
41Ripplesf6A ***
42Ripples, Sit-startf6B+ ***
43Razorf6C+ **
44Razor, Sit-startf7A **
45Pete's Ribf6C+ ***
46Pete's Rib, Sit-startf7A ***
47Stairway Directf6A+ *
48Stairwayf5+ *
49Touched by Godf7A+ **
50Chocolate Orangef7B **
51The Crackf5 *
52Janusf7A *
53Quick Stepf5 *
54The Mantel Piecef4+ *
55Close Encountersf7A+ **
56Jimbo's Dynof7A *
57The Groovef6B+ **
58The Groove Eliminatef6C *
59Straight and Narrowf6B+ *
60Straight and Narrow, Sit-startf6C+ *
61Diversionf6A *
62Diversion, Sit-startf6C *
63Gorkin Flipf6C *
64The Podf5 *
65The pod escapef4+ *
66Pod Escape Directf4+ *
67Before Records Beganf5+
68Prior to 1974f6A+ *
69After 1974f5 *
70JP Flakef4+ *
71One Holdf5+
72Many Dates in Historyf5+ *
73Snatch and Grabf6A *
74Disenchantedf6C+ **
 Cheyne House Quarry
76Wax Workf6B *
77Candle Waxf6B+ **
78Cortaderia Selloanaf3
79Upper Tier Rampf4
80Blunt Aretef5+ *
81Sharp Aretef4+ *
82Scruffy Cornerf4
83Scruffy Crackf5+
84Scruffy Wallf6A *
85Jurassic Crackf5+
86Fallen Block Flakef5+ *
87With Four Strong Menf6B+
88Fallen Block Wallf6A
89Stray Shotf5+ *
90Shot Gunf5+ *
91Long Shotf6A
92Last Shotf6A *
93Crack Shot Leftf4 *
94Crack Shot Rightf5+
95Lower Tier Rampf4+
96No Pedestalf5+ *
97Cheyne House Rampf4+ *
98Little Cheyne Wallf4
99Little Cheyne Flakef3
 Godnor South
101Portland Exclusion Zone6c
103Mona Lisa5c
105Corner TwinS
106Corner WallHVD
107Slab and CrackHVD
HS 4a
109Anvil Point
HS 4b
110Chimney Break
111The Good Life5c **
112Breakover Crack DirectE1 5b *
113Enter Shakari6c
114The Gates
VS 4c
115Dusky Corner
116Corner Direct
HS 4a
117The Oh-No Variant
E2 5b
 Godnor North
119Small but Perfectly Formed6a *
120Big Slab Variant4c *
121Big Slab
122Unnamed6a+ *
HS 4a
124Crow's Nest Corner
125Loving the Moment6a
126Crow's Nest Direct
127Euphemism6b *
128Prisoners Of Gravity6b *
129Island In The Sun6a *
131Private World6a
132Stress Test6a
 Godnor far North
134Remember Blair Peach
HVS 4c/5a
135Gi' It Laldy6c *
136Harpies and Quines6b+ **
137Any Day Mike?7b+ *
138One Day, James6b+ *
139Pathfinder6b *
140Snatch SquadHS 4b
142Dreamscape6a *
143Dreamscape Direct6b *
144Ben5a *
145Willem5a *
146Jasper4c *
147Jody Sunshine4c *
148Wave Warrior4c *
149Valerie's Patio3
150Garden Party6a *
152Last Human6c
153Tin Man5c *
154Rubber Truncheon
HS 4b
155Tombstone3+ **
156Where Silence Has Lease6c **
157Wedding Daze6b *
158Future Imperfect6a+ **
159Jacob's Ladder5a **
160The Truth is Out There6b **
161Resistance is Futile7a+ *
162Car Parts, Bottles and Cutlery6b+ *
163Factor 156a+ *
164Net Asset5c
165Kung Fu Panda4a *
166Nonnie and the Pulp Fiction Tantrum4c *
167Not Worth BoltingVS 4c
 Neddyfields Main Cliff
169Return of the Rice Bandit6a
170Midday Massacre5a
171La Fievre Spiteuse5c
172Lucy's off the Wall5a
173Nothing's Shocking6a+ *
174First Contact6b *
175Brace Yourself Sheila5a *
176Conquistadors of the Useless6c *
177Small Object of Desire6a+ *
178Annapurna, Mon Amour6a+
179The Accelerator7a *
180Nameless6c *
181Born To Hunt6c *
182Thick as Thieves6c
183Franks EffortHS 4a
184Three in a Bed5c *
185Steve's WallVS 4b
186I wish I was in Steve's Shoe's5c
187Felix Navidad6a+ *
189Milly Vanilly6a
190Books Across the Sea6a
191Puppet Show of Memory6a
VS 4b/c
193Damn These Electric Sex Pants6a+
195Wonderlust6b **
196IntimidationE1 5b
197Shit Route7a
198Julie Ocean6c+ **
199Northern Invasion7a
200Bigus Dickus6b
201Lugwiler's Dismal Itch6c *
202Ecosystem6b+ *
203Time of the Month6b+ *
204Inception5c *
205The Screwfix Escourt Agency6a+ *
206The ScoopS 4a
207Better ThingsHS 4a
208Ocean Boulevard4c *
209Outside LeftS 4a
210Bundle of Joy4a *
211Crush With EyelinerE1 5b
212Sunday RakeS 4a
213Spider CracksHVS 5a
214The Wilsonator6b
215Jobby's Leaving gift5b
216Joe Stole My Route5b
217Butterfly CrackS 4a
 The Nook Quarry Bouldering - Same as Cheyne House Quarry?
219Sharpe Aretef4
220The Herb Debatef5+
221The Banana Questionf5+
222Finger the Beaverf5
223Mrs Beaverf5+
224Mr Beaverf6C
225Ms Beaverf6A
226Sweaty Gym Socksf3
227Squeeze the Beaverf5
228The Ramp to Nowheref4
 The Nook
230Leering Crack5a
231Air Kisses6c *
232My Pashminas Got Caught in the Gri Gri6a
233East Side Story5c
234Chill Dementia4c
235Sinister Dexter6a+ *
236Bring Me Sunshine6a
237Its a God Awful Small Affair2
238Jugs of JoyHVD
 Cheyne Cliff
240Mirror of the Sea6c *
241Silver-studded Blue6b *
242Raptor6c *
243Drowning on Dry Land6c **
244Rocket from the Crypt7a+ **
245Coralized7b+ **
246Heartbeats7a+ *
247Van Life7a+ **
248The Pigskin Bus Pulls Into Tuna Town6a *
249Dutch Courage6c *
250Found Under Carnal Knowledge7a *
251Fireblade7b+ **
252Dynomite7c+ **
253Pandemonium7c+ **
254Poisoned Bamboo7c **
255No Turn Unstoned7a **
256Cruise Control6a+ **
257Road Rage7b+ ***
258Detonator7c **
259Illusions7c ***
260Yesterday's Dreams7b+ **
261Remerberance Sunday6b+ *
262Italian Eighth6b+ *
263Threatening Speedos6c+
264Pouch of Douglas5a *
 Dungecroft Quarry
267A Ying and a Yang and a Yippiedeedoo5c *
268The Lesser of Two Weevils6b+ *
269Wind Dog6b *
270Never Ignore A Pooh-Pooh2+
271Trust me I'm a Doctor3
273Sping Nol4c *
274Julio's Ropeladder6a+ *
275Die Screaming with Sharp Things in your Head5c *
276Ultrasonic Shoulder6a+ *
277Death Star Canteen5c *
278Crazy Old Hippies4c *
279Crowbar Assassin6a+
280Covert Strike6b *
281The Epicurean Paradox6b+ *
282Dungecroft Delight5a *
283The Alpha and The Omega3+ *
284Dirty Bertie4c
285Doris Does Dungecroft3
287Fix It Duck6b
288We Apologise for the Inconvenience5a
289Gecko Wall6a
290Wall Lizard6c+
291The Cookie Monster3
292Make Cookies Not War4a *
297Return of the Gecko6c
298I Learned to Swim at Dunkirk4c
300Little Terror5a *
301Blood on the Rocks6a *
302The Clicking of Her Needles Spelled Doom6b+ *
303Viagra Wall6c+
304Can You See Scratchy Bottom?6a+
305Dad Gets Another Monkey Bite2
306Truly, Madly, Steeply7b *
307Heroes of Swanage5c
308Heroes of Portland6b
310Sex, Lies and Videotape7a
311Last Ditch Effort5b
313Hevizf5+ *
314Mr Fudgef5+ **
315Why Notf3+
316Ginger Jihadf3
317Lucky Pantsf3
318Cake or Deathf5
319Read The Sign5b
320The Hangover6a
321Suspiria de Profundis6b
322Slap and Tickle6a+
 The Lost Valley
324Fallen Angel5a
325Heavens Above7b
326Marry Me in Vegas?7b
327Heaven TraverseE2 5b
328Tug on This Jody7a
329Look West & Find Salvation7a+
330Quite Nice Actually6b+
331Even Nicer6b
332Little Pinky6b+
333Drilling in the Name6b+ *
334Robin Crack5a *
335Birdie Num Num6c+
336Clamped Aggression6b+ *
337Back Door to Heavenf6B
338Return to Senderf6C
339Heaven Sentf7A
340Straight to Heavenf7A+
341Garden Forcef5
342Bastard Crack7a
344No Chutney on His Ferret5c
345LR Traversef6A
346Chapter and Verse6a
347Oatsheaf, Chief5c
348Training for Hubble6a+ *
349The Stoning of St. Stephen7b+ **
350Mono y Mono7a+ *
351Cadwallader6b+ *
352Redundancy CrackE1 5b
353The Martyr7a+ **
354The Secret Garden6b+ *
355The Beauty of Decay6b+
356Tactical Nuclear Penguin6b
E1 5b
358Flake Away4a
359Portrait of a Lady6c+
360Flaked Out4c
361Echoes Of Trad4c
362Test Pilot6a *
363Primordial6a+ *
364Touch The Earth7a
365Constant Companion5a
366Promethean Flame6a
367The Lost Domain6a
368Lush5c *
369Head in a Bush3+
370The Angel from my Nightmare3
371Sweet Dreams Are Made of This3+
3724, 8, 15, 16, 23, 424c
373Rhys Gets Another Monkey Bite5a
374Not the Same Mistake Again Kath5c
375Plastic Tractor3+
376Dude, Where's My Car?S
377Enjoy My Experience6c+

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Tom Beaumont