Climbs 366
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 12m a.s.l
Faces E

Rik on Small but Perfectly Formed - 6a, Cheyne Wears © Brian H

Crag features

FOR ANYONE THINKING OF HEADING TO CHEYNE WEARES AREA BE AWARE

24 September 2014

Large amounts of rock have fallen from Cheyne cliff. Almost all of the Coralized area at Cheyne cliff collapsed today. coast guard and bmc have been notified. DO NOT CLIMB HERE. the remaining cliff looks incredibly unstable in a lot of areas, please do not climb here until it has been inspected etc it is very dangerous.

In addition there has been some slippage at the bottom of the small crag at the far end of Neddyfields main cliff. In particular access to climbs between 'Return of the Rice Bandit' and 'La Fievre Spiteuse' is extremely unstable, and access to the other climbs involves dodgy ground and/or high first bolts.

7 September 2014

The section of coast line near Southwell, and the large Cheyne Weares car park, has a number of different cliffs which offer very contrasting styles and grades of climbing on a variety of rock features. Godnor Far North has been developed into a low to mid-grade sport route playground down by the sea and the Neddyfields Main Cliff offers routes in a similar vein. Both these cliffs were mainly developed by members of Basingstoke M.C. and they have become extremely popular although it should be noted that Neddyfields can be over-run by outdoor groups at times. The Lost Valley is an extremely sheltered location in a deep inland ravine with an eerie quiet atmosphere. It also suffers from ivy growth from time to time but this is usually cleared away by the locals especially now that it is been developed as a good hard bouldering venue as well. Dungecroft Quarry is also a sheltered venue containing short bouldery routes on high quality rock and a few easy boulder problems. There is more bouldering on the small vertical wall above the Neddyfields Main crag. The Nook is small sheltered venue on the way to Neddyfields with short routes and boulder problems, Portlands nearest crag to the road! The biggest crag in the area is Cheyne Cliff which looks scruffy from a distance but in fact harbours some fine flowstone faces and orange coral. The routes here are mainly for the fitter climber needing ultimate stamina tests. Possible restriction from 1 Feb to 31 August. Check ROCKFAX web site.

Approach notes

The two main parking areas for these crags lie on the main road from Easton just before Southwell. The first is the main Cheyne Weares car park which is clearly marked. The second limited spot (5-6 cars) is in a short track, on the seaward side of the road, 300m south of Cheyne Weares car park, and also 300m north from Southwell. This track is adjacent to the isolated Cheyne House opposite a an ARC quarry entrance. A good coast path track leads south down from here to the cliff-top.

Lost Valley - From the main Cheyne Weares car park walk north (left -looking out) along a ridge for 250m which gives a view into a rocky ravine on the left engulfed in vegetation - this is the Lost Valley. Drop down a steep chute at the far end to gain the right-hand side of the cliff.

Dungecroft Quarry (and the Road Rage Wall) - From the main Cheyne Weares car park walk south (right - looking out) from the car park along a track down into a large disused quarry. The Dungecroft routes are along the quarried wall to the right. The abseil point for the Road Rage Wall is a staple situated on a large boulder on the cliff-top, in front of a pile of waste stone. About 30m north of this is a short block wall set back from the cliff edge where abseil bolts for the Bariatric Buttress can be found.

Cheyne Cliff - From the limited parking spot by Cheyne House descend the coast path then turn left (looking out) along the cliff edge, towards a small quarry. After 10m drop down a steep scree slope (care needed) and trend leftwards (looking out]) down this to reach the edge of the very high main cliff. The Road Rage Wall and Bariatric Buttress are accessible by abseil from Dungecroft Quarry.

Neddyfields Main Cliff and Bouldering Wall - From the limited parking spot walk 200m down the coast path to where the long bouldering wall will appear on the right (2 mins from the road). The Main Cliff lies directly below the bouldering wall. Use a good steep track which cuts back left (looking out) along the cliff base, opposite the far end of the bouldering wall.

Godnor Far North - Descend to the beach boulders as for the Neddyfields Main Cliff. Then head right (looking out) for 150m along the beach, past a large outfall pipe (no climbing on the pipe cliff) to where the main crag starts. The boulders can be greasy and eventually they become tidal. Do not abseil in or take short cuts due to rare fauna.

The Nook - From the limited parking spot at Neddyfields walk 25 metres down the track and turn left onto the middle ledge of a small quarry. Follow this leftwards, the crag is just around the headland - 1 minute.

Access Advice

Restrictions apply from  1 March - 30 June. Reason - Nesting Birds

The agreed nesting restriction applies between 'Mirror Of The Sea' to 'Van Life' as well as to the whole of the small recently developed area of crag known as 'The Nook' - look out for on-site signing.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
FOR ANYONE THINKING OF HEADING TO CHEYNE WEARES AREA BE AWARE Large amounts of rock have fallen from Cheyne cliff. Almost all of the Coralized area at Cheyne cliff collapsed today. coast guard and bmc have been notified. DO NOT CLIMB HERE. the remaining cliff looks incredibly unstable in a lot of areas, please do not climb here until it has been inspected etc etc it is very very dangerous. I believe local authorities will be closing the area underneath the cliff for safety reasons. spread the word
David Clover - 24/Aug/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Neddyfields Bouldering Wall 
2Forebodingf6A 8
3Hari-kirif6B+ *5
4Psychof6B+ **2
5Bearing Allf6A *3
6Great Bearf5+ *41
7Little Bearf4+ 77
8Shtinkenminkenguffenpuffsf6C+ 2
9Shtinkenminkenguffenpuffs, Sit-startf7A+ **1
10Solar Stonef7A+ **6
11Indian Summerf6B *14
12Totem Polef4+ **160
13Papoosef6A *60
14Wampumf6C *6
15Vacillatef6B+ *23
16Jimbo's Wallf7B **2
17Jimbo's Right Handf7B **4
18Pock Markf7A+ **13
19Prosthesisf6B *9
20Prosthesis, Sit-startf6C *3
21Colossusf6B+ *8
22Colossus, Sit-startf6C+ *2
23Stoic Existencef6B+ **22
24Fontanelf7A *9
25The Flakef6A **67
26The Flake, Sit-startf6A+ **6
27Flake Outf6B *4
28Flake Out, Sit-startf6B+ *6
29Local Peoplef7A 1
30Pete's GrooveV6 *21
31Taming the Flowf6B **105
32Fountain of Youthf5+ ***201
33Stolidf4 **63
34Stopcockf4+ *179
35ProtozoaV0- *56
36Amoeba Statef5+ *93
37The Arete (eliminate version)V3 *20
38The Aretef6A+ **28
39Savage Traversef7A+ *2
40The Arete Directf6C **2
41Ripplesf6A ***106
42Ripples, Sit-startf6B+ ***5
43Razorf6C+ **5
44Razor, Sit-startf7A **1
45Pete's Ribf6C+ ***32
46Pete's Rib, Sit-startf7A ***2
47Stairway Directf6A+ *52
48Stairwayf5+ *108
49Touched by Godf7A+ **2
50Chocolate Orangef7B **4
51The Crackf5 *40
52Janusf7A *3
53Quick Stepf5 *114
54The Mantel Piecef4+ *131
55Close Encountersf7A+ **3
56Jimbo's Dynof7A *1
57The Groovef6B+ **45
58The Groove Eliminatef6C *1
59Straight and Narrowf6B+ *8
60Straight and Narrow, Sit-startf6C+ *1
61Diversionf6A *48
62Diversion, Sit-startf6C *1
63Gorkin Flipf6C *2
64The Podf5 *109
65The pod escapef4+ *33
66Pod Escape Directf4+ *5
67Before Records Beganf5+ 4
68Prior to 1974f6A+ *2
69After 1974f5 *5
70JP Flakef4+ *5
71One Holdf5+ 3
72Many Dates in Historyf5+ *4
73Snatch and Grabf6A *2
74Disenchantedf6C+ **5
 Cheyne House Quarry 
76Wax Workf6B *6
77Candle Waxf6B+ **5
78Cortaderia Selloanaf3 5
79Upper Tier Rampf4 5
80Blunt Aretef5+ *25
81Sharp Aretef4+ *7
82Scruffy Cornerf4 8
83Scruffy Crackf5+ 8
84Scruffy Wallf6A *7
85Jurassic Crackf5+ 29
86Fallen Block Flakef5+ *5
87With Four Strong Menf6B+ 3
88Fallen Block Wallf6A 5
89Stray Shotf5+ *7
90Shot Gunf5+ *7
91Long Shotf6A 8
92Last Shotf6A *7
93Crack Shot Leftf4 *6
94Crack Shot Rightf5+ 5
95Lower Tier Rampf4+ 6
96No Pedestalf5+ *6
97Cheyne House Rampf4+ *6
98Little Cheyne Wallf4 6
99Little Cheyne Flakef3 6
 Godnor South 
101Portland Exclusion Zone6c 2
102Leonardo6a+ 2
103Mona Lisa5c 4
104Whitestones3+ 4
105Corner TwinS 2
106Corner WallHVD 3
107Slab and CrackHVD 2
108Sidewalker
-
HS 4a 2
109Anvil Point
-
HS 4b 2
110Chimney Break
-
S 1
111The Good Life5c **11
112Breakover Crack DirectE1 5b *1
113Enter Shakari6c 6
114The Gates
-
VS 4c 1
115Dusky Corner
-
VD 1
116Corner Direct
-
HS 4a 1
117The Oh-No Variant
-
E2 5b 1
 Godnor North 
119Small but Perfectly Formed6a *11
120Big Slab Variant4c *7
121Big Slab
-
VD 1
122Unnamed6a+ *3
123Crackers
-
HS 4a 1
124Crow's Nest Corner
-
VD 4
125Loving the Moment6a 1
126Crow's Nest Direct
-
HS 1
127Euphemism6b *6
128Prisoners Of Gravity6b *2
129Island In The Sun6a *5
130Defiance
-
S 1
131Private World6a 6
132Stress Test6a 5
 Godnor far North 
134Remember Blair Peach
-
HVS 4c/5a 1
135Gi' It Laldy6c *4
136Harpies and Quines6b+ **57
137Any Day Mike?7b+ *6
138One Day, James6b+ *44
139Pathfinder6b *87
140Snatch SquadHS 4b 5
141Sidewinder6a 201
142Dreamscape6a *255
143Dreamscape Direct6b *82
144Ben5a *418
145Willem5a *465
146Jasper4c *558
147Jody Sunshine4c *436
148Wave Warrior4c *548
149Valerie's Patio3 511
150Garden Party6a *117
151Starbuck6a 259
152Last Human6c 65
153Tin Man5c *219
154Rubber Truncheon
-
HS 4b 2
155Tombstone3+ **682
156Where Silence Has Lease6c **117
157Wedding Daze6b *197
158Future Imperfect6a+ **423
159Jacob's Ladder5a **617
160The Truth is Out There6b **307
161Resistance is Futile7a+ *90
162Car Parts, Bottles and Cutlery6b+ *64
163Factor 156a+ *94
164Net Asset5c 74
165Kung Fu Panda4a *193
166Nonnie and the Pulp Fiction Tantrum4c *168
167Not Worth BoltingVS 4c 2
 Neddyfields Main Cliff 
169Return of the Rice Bandit6a 25
170Midday Massacre5a 55
171La Fievre Spiteuse5c 46
172Lucy's off the Wall5a 263
173Nothing's Shocking6a+ *216
174First Contact6b *140
175Brace Yourself Sheila5a *345
176Conquistadors of the Useless6c *63
177Small Object of Desire6a+ *82
178Annapurna, Mon Amour6a+ 41
179The Accelerator7a *314
180Nameless6c *137
181Born To Hunt6c *42
182Thick as Thieves6c 40
183Franks EffortHS 4a 6
184Three in a Bed5c *293
185Steve's WallVS 4b 4
186I wish I was in Steve's Shoe's5c 151
187Felix Navidad6a+ *180
188Infelicity6a 201
189Milly Vanilly6a 155
190Books Across the Sea6a 112
191Puppet Show of Memory6a 104
192Inertia
-
VS 4b/c 7
193Damn These Electric Sex Pants6a+ 119
194Kate6b+ 49
195Wonderlust6b **355
196IntimidationE1 5b 3
197Shit Route7a 57
198Julie Ocean6c+ **193
199Northern Invasion7a 27
200Bigus Dickus6b 57
201Lugwiler's Dismal Itch6c *113
202Ecosystem6b+ *184
203Time of the Month6b+ *231
204Inception5c *520
205The Screwfix Escourt Agency6a+ *165
206The ScoopS 4a 12
207Better ThingsHS 4a 7
208Ocean Boulevard4c *520
209Outside LeftS 4a 30
210Bundle of Joy4a *246
211Crush With EyelinerE1 5b 14
212Sunday RakeS 4a 27
213Spider CracksHVS 5a 6
214The Wilsonator6b 14
215Jobby's Leaving gift5b 21
216Joe Stole My Route5b 13
217Butterfly CrackS 4a 11
 The Nook Quarry Bouldering - Same as Cheyne House Quarry? 
219Sharpe AreteV0 21
220The Herb DebateV2 17
221The Banana QuestionV2 15
222Finger the BeaverV1 19
223Mrs BeaverV2 12
224Mr BeaverV5 8
225Ms BeaverV3 13
226Sweaty Gym SocksVB 19
227Squeeze the BeaverV1 15
228The Ramp to NowhereV0 15
 The Nook 
230Leering Crack5a 29
231Air Kisses6c *18
232My Pashminas Got Caught in the Gri Gri6a 41
233East Side Story5c 56
234Chill Dementia4c 72
235Sinister Dexter6a+ *30
236Bring Me Sunshine6a 43
237Its a God Awful Small Affair2 47
238Jugs of JoyHVD 18
 Cheyne Cliff 
240Mirror of the Sea6c *8
241Silver-studded Blue6b *36
242Raptor6c *16
243Drowning on Dry Land6c **85
244Rocket from the Crypt7a+ **46
245Coralized7b+ **20
246Heartbeats7a+ *14
247Van Life7a+ **9
248The Pigskin Bus Pulls Into Tuna Town6a *108
249Dutch Courage6c *46
250Found Under Carnal Knowledge7a *8
251Fireblade7b+ **5
252Dynomite7c+ **1
253Pandemonium7c+ **2
254Poisoned Bamboo7c **1
255No Turn Unstoned7a **27
256Cruise Control6a+ **100
257Road Rage7b+ ***118
258Detonator7c **5
259Illusions7c ***10
260Yesterday's Dreams7b+ **6
261Remerberance Sunday6b+ *11
262Italian Eighth6b+ *10
263Threatening Speedos6c+ 6
264Pouch of Douglas5a *15
265Bariatric4a 15
 Dungecroft Quarry 
267A Ying and a Yang and a Yippiedeedoo5c *39
268The Lesser of Two Weevils6b+ *21
269Wind Dog6b *25
270Never Ignore A Pooh-Pooh2+ 71
271Trust me I'm a Doctor3 63
272T-Muffhundred4c 74
273Sping Nol4c *83
274Julio's Ropeladder6a+ *47
275Die Screaming with Sharp Things in your Head5c *94
276Ultrasonic Shoulder6a+ *40
277Death Star Canteen5c *46
278Crazy Old Hippies4c *151
279Crowbar Assassin6a+ 30
280Covert Strike6b *20
281The Epicurean Paradox6b+ *15
282Dungecroft Delight5a *105
283The Alpha and The Omega3+ *125
284Dirty Bertie4c 66
285Doris Does Dungecroft3 64
286Hayabusa6a 55
287Fix It Duck6b 37
288We Apologise for the Inconvenience5a 79
289Gecko Wall6a 25
290Wall Lizard6c+ 21
291The Cookie Monster3 102
292Make Cookies Not War4a *119
293Rai6a 49
294Julia6a 61
295Peace6a+ 24
296Love6c 13
297Return of the Gecko6c 9
298I Learned to Swim at Dunkirk4c 16
299Well'Ard7a+ 7
300Little Terror5a *28
301Blood on the Rocks6a *22
302The Clicking of Her Needles Spelled Doom6b+ *7
303Viagra Wall6c+ 1
304Can You See Scratchy Bottom?6a+ 16
305Dad Gets Another Monkey Bite2 40
306Truly, Madly, Steeply7b *9
307Heroes of Swanage5c 35
308Heroes of Portland6b 5
309Lifesigns7a+ 1
310Sex, Lies and Videotape7a 3
311Last Ditch Effort5b 8
312Buzzin'6b+ 4
313HevizV2 *10
314Mr FudgeV2 **10
315Why NotV0- 11
316Ginger JihadVB 9
317Lucky PantsVB 10
318Cake or DeathV1 8
319Read The Sign5b 8
320The Hangover6a 8
321Suspiria de Profundis6b 3
322Slap and Tickle6a+ 6
 The Lost Valley 
324Fallen Angel5a 8
325Heavens Above7b 1
326Marry Me in Vegas?7b 1
327Heaven TraverseE2 5b 1
328Tug on This Jody7a 9
329Look West & Find Salvation7a+ 6
330Quite Nice Actually6b+ 6
331Even Nicer6b 3
332Little Pinky6b+ 7
333Drilling in the Name6b+ *23
334Robin Crack5a *44
335Birdie Num Num6c+ 1
336Clamped Aggression6b+ *6
337Back Door to Heavenf6B 1
338Return to Senderf6C 1
339Heaven Sentf7A 1
340Straight to Heavenf7A+ 1
341Garden Forcef5 6
342Bastard Crack7a 2
343Plystalker7c 3
344No Chutney on His Ferret5c 19
345LR Traversef6A 3
346Chapter and Verse6a 40
347Oatsheaf, Chief5c 22
348Training for Hubble6a+ *42
349The Stoning of St. Stephen7b+ **12
350Mono y Mono7a+ *2
351Cadwallader6b+ *49
352Redundancy CrackE1 5b 18
353The Martyr7a+ **9
354The Secret Garden6b+ *51
355The Beauty of Decay6b+ 20
356Tactical Nuclear Penguin6b 14
357Slug
-
E1 5b 4
358Flake Away4a 141
359Portrait of a Lady6c+ 21
360Flaked Out4c 110
361Echoes Of Trad4c 78
362Test Pilot6a *119
363Primordial6a+ *53
364Touch The Earth7a 24
365Constant Companion5a 30
366Promethean Flame6a 1
367The Lost Domain6a 19
368Lush5c *32
369Head in a Bush3+ 40
370The Angel from my Nightmare3 36
371Sweet Dreams Are Made of This3+ 126
3724, 8, 15, 16, 23, 424c 115
373Rhys Gets Another Monkey Bite5a 125
374Not the Same Mistake Again Kath5c 116
375Plastic Tractor3+ 89
376Dude, Where's My Car?S 14
377Enjoy My Experience6c+ 4

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