Dovedale Church (Dovedale) Staffordshire, ENGLAND
Climbs 30 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 150m a.s.l – Faces E
Four large pinnacles split by archways giving some classic routes and a few desperate test pieces up to 30m long. Some of the in-situ pegs will require backing up. Good quality rock, most routes are of a strenuous and technical nature. Best 'easy' routes are Snake's Alive (VS 4c) and Anaconda (HVS 5b,4b). Phil's Route (E2 5c) is a rare limestone roof crack, Tales of the Riverbank a sublime E5 6a up a grooved arete and Amazona (E6 6c) up a magnificent pocketed wall is seldom flashed. Shorter sport routes are availavble on the 'inner sanctum'. The f7c (Bolt It and Believe It!)is more like E6 6c however (take wires)!
From Dovedale car park at SK 147509 follow the footpath until just beyond Tissington Spires (1 mile). The crag is clearly visible on the opposite bank. A very gentle wade across a mossy weir is the best approach. The footpath under the crag is private.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
Peak Limestone (2012), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992), Peak Limestone - South (1987)
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