"Has been locked up for some time" - Andy Ashley [8/00]. Used to have interesting single- and multi-pitch routes up to 115ft in the heart of Plymouth (well, inside the city limits). No starred routes but amusement for most.
Take note though of Mark Quest's experience: "whilst fine climbing on very frictiony slab is to be had here, once at the top you are kind of buggered. I climbed here recently.. but on reaching the top of the climb, found no belay points whatsoever and had to 'body belay' my girlfriend up, who, thank God, didn't fall. Then hacked my way through thorns and barbed wire to only end up in someones back garden!! They weren't too impressed, but thankfully saw the funny side. Barring someone getting up there and putting in some abseil stakes or belay anchors it's just not an option, as far as I can see. The slab does have climb me written all over it but I'd hate to see someone else get into the mess I did." Be warned.
Although officially "shut", you can always rely on the local kids to find a way into places like this! From the carpark, face the quarry and then follow the footpath that leads away to the right. Take the first left turn (through 2 aging and plant covered stone pillars) and then follow the lefthand path through the woods. This takes you around a fence and into the quarry.
The comments above are very true - this place really does not have much gear - I was pleased when I got 2 pieces in in 45 m (!). However the climbing is fun.
It could do with a good clean, the foliage at the top cut back and some decent belay stakes installed. Nevertheless, if you do brave the exposure and climb here you can force a way through the jungle at the top (this is possible, I have the scars to prove it) to reach the left hand edge of the slab where there is a stout tree to abseil down from. (Be warned: it's 45m in one go, so bring enough rope!)
Park cars at the end of Hooe Lake, by the dam bridge (off the A379). The quarry entrance lies beyond a chain-link fence by the car park. Follow the track to the main area, where the main slab (with no routes or protection) is obvious.
South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)
|1||Allotment Arete||HS 4b||2|
|2||Left Edge||HS 4b||5|
|5||Mac's Route||VS 4b||5|
|6||Central Route||HVS 5a|
|7||Strictly Private||HVS 5a||3|
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|Is it not possible to get this place sorted out with some lower offs/steaks through the BMC bolt project. I haven't been here yet but looks like it's worth a try from the one picture!|
The Green Giant - 03/Mar/10