The rock is an odd mixture of limestone and shale, so it's best to stick to the starred routes (in the guidebook). Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 130ft.
Bird restriction due to Peregrine Falcon nesting. RSPB have signs up prohibiting climbing from March - August, this was confirmed with a phone call.
<<<Farmer/owner currently refusing permission to climb>>> [June 04]
>From Totnes, follow the B3210 towards Avonwick for about 3 miles. Take the turnoff marked "Hazard Farm". Please get the farmer's permission before climbing here. A short drive further down the lane provides parking just past a disused lime kiln.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)
|1||Croix De Guerre||E3||16|
|2||Samurai||E3 5c **||5|
|4||Spear & Jackson||E1 5b *||6|
|5||Grooverider||E2 5b **||2|
|6||Loose Grit?||6a+ *||7|
|8||Scone-on...(the Cream Tea Slayer)||E2 5c *||1|
|13||Green Ranger||HVS 4b, 4c|
|14||Boss Hogg||E1 5a|
|15||Dumnonia||HVS 5a, 4b||1|
|16||Absent Friends||E2 5b, 5c|
|17||The Boltin' Hazard||E5 6a|
|18||A Poke in the Hole||E3 5c *||2|
|19||The Black Streak||E4 6a|
|20||Hazardous Traverse||E3 5b, 5c|
|22||Le Hazard||7a+ **||3|
|24||Tapes of Wrath||E3 5b, 5c|
|26||6c Right Of Bolting Hazard||6c *||1|
|27||Loose Grit *||E1 5b||1|
|28||Meadow Fly *||VS 4b|
|29||Apparition *||6b+ **|
|31||Swings and Roundabouts *||E5 6b/c|
|32||Bee Careful *||E2 5b|
|33||The Winged Avenger *||7a+||1|
|34||Daisy Duke *||6b+ **||1|
|35||Twilight *||VS 4c|
|36||Pastoral *||VS 4c|
|USER FEEDBACK||Login as Existing User to add your comments|
|Spoke to owner in November 2010, and they are refusing entry because relatives of whoever needed the air ambulance asked why they weren't insured, so they decided no more climbers after that moment. The ban seems unlikely to be lifted...|
dmaldonado - 13/Nov/10
|Owner still refusing entry (April 2009). I spoke to the owners wife and she said it was both because of the birds nesting, and that an air ambulance was called out as some point, therefore they are worried about insurance.
Hopefully this can be resolved when the birds stop nesting.|
northnorthnorth - 11/Apr/09