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These details were last updated on 09/Aug/2011

Chudleigh Rocks (North Face)

Devon, ENGLAND

Climbs 60 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
Plenty of interesting mid-grade single- and multi-pitch routes up to 95ft. Compact, solid limestone.

Note: The Rock Climbing and Caving centre have placed lower offs and bolts on the routes on the Eastern buttress. The lower offs on most routes are fitted with a 'mouse' rope. Tie a clove hitch tightly around your rope with the 'mouse' rope a meter or so from the end and pull your rope through. If you drop a 'mouse' rope please report this to an instructor or at the house. These can be used free of charge. Anyone wishing to use the face with a group please contact 07743720397. Thanks, Rock Centre Staff

Weather forecast

 Today  Sat  Sun  Mon  Tue 

0.0mm rain
Sun
12 °C
17 kph

0.0mm rain
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10 °C
16 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
9 °C
22 kph

11.2mm rain
Cloudy
8 °C
22 kph

1.0mm rain
Mainly cloudy
9 °C
31 kph
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Guidebooks
South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1A38MS 4a 4
2Devon expressway4 7
3M55 4
4Highway 65HS 4b *15
5Route 66HVD 14
6Ivy LeagueVD *19
7Gemni 1S 4b 10
8Gemini 11S 4b *13
9Tropic of CapricornVS 4b *11
10Tropic of cancerVS 4c *8
11Rope of sandHVS 4c **2
12Black Spring6c ** 
13Benn GunnS 4b *21
14Long JohnHVS 4c *1
15Singapore5 **9
16The NotchHS 4b *14
17Two stroke bananaHVS 4c 1
18Little SubtltiesMS 4a 4
19SexusHS 4b *8
20NexusS 4a ***24
21PlexusMVS 4b *14
22PrometheusHVS 5a **3
23NimrodHVS 5a/b ***4
24ThornifixionHVS 4c 3
25The DialHS 4b 1
26PerseusE1 5b *1
27ColossusMVS 4c *3
28Garden Wall EliminateVS 4c 3
29Ancient MarinerHS 4b 3
30New sport route #14 15
 Climb nameGradex
31New sport route #25+ 11
32New sport route #36a+ 13
33New Bolt Route 44 13
34The Arete3+ 12
35AndromedaHVS 4c 2
36GötterdammerungM  
37Valkyrie RibVD  
38TristanS  
39NemesisHVS 5a 1
40DianaVS 4c  
41Grey Wall EliminateHVS 4b, 4c  
42ScorpionHVS 4c  
43OrionHVS 5a  
44CygnusVS 4c  
45Perseus DirectHVS 5a  
46Colossus (variation)VS 4c  
47The TrackHVS  
48The Track (variation)HVS  
49Caveman RockHS 4a  
50HanselHS 4a  
51GretelHS 4a  
52YggdraselHVS 5a  
53East Gully WallVS 4b  
54BoleroHVS 4c  
55Alpha OneE2 5b  
56SeguidillaVS 5a  
57Seguidilla (variation)HS 4b  
58SickleHS 4a  
59HammerVS 4b  
60Rock House CornerHVD  
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Access notes
The landowner is making it very difficult to climb on the North Face and has actually threatened climbers recently. The sign in book has gone and not sure now if access is viable.

Classifieds
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Volunteer to moderate Chudleigh Rocks (North Face)
We rely on volunteers to moderate their local crags. You would check updates and approve climbs added to the database. It's a very easy job, and all you need is a guidebook and an hour or two each month. [ read more ]

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Just another reminder that access to the South Face of Chudleigh Rocks is NOT via the Rock Centre. Please do not park here, or at the adjacent garden centre. The North Face is to be accessed as per the description in the guidebook. Please be respectful of this private property, and don't do anything to antagonise the very tolerant owners.
ecowaller - 03/May/09

Poor diagrams and route descriptions make it very hard to locate the routes. I mistook the muddy chimney (only mentioned in the preamble) for the muddy gully and ended up on some dity scary poorly protected thing instead of Sexus - maybe The Notch? I hope the next guide provides some photos.
Kafoozalem - 03/May/08

Hi, Access to Chudleigh North Face does NOT allow access to the Rock Centres high ropes course.....any one wishing to use this can contact the centre on 07743720397. We recently aprehended 3 climbers who thought it was ok to help them selves to our facilities. They were BMC members and one worked for Snow And Rock...thanks lads Ecowaller
Robbie Warke - 27/Sep/06

Please do NOT park at the Centre or garden centre, this is private property. The access is as the south face and walk through, this has been the agreed access situation since the 1960's please do not abuse it. We at the Rock centre encourage climbing but please respect the fact that we liveand work here and that we have improved the crag for climbers. More people need to respect access agreements and not jeapordise future agreements. Robbie Warke
ecowaller - 29/Aug/06

Great crag for very hot days - stays in the shade all day. Using the S Devon & Dartmoor Guide was very confusing, as the approach for the North side is best made from the carpark next to the Garden Centre. You should call at the large house (which is the base for an outdoor activities centre) and sign the visitors book before climbing. The setup for the routes is unique in my experience - with pull-ropes in place through the top anchors on many routes to facilitate threading top-ropes, and many routes with staple bolts in place where natural gear is lacking. Hence the routes are a strange mix of trad and sport. On our visit (July 2006), many of the Garden Wall routes appeared very overgrown, and non-too appealing.
Carl Smethurst - 20/Jul/06

Although this is the north face it is a great spot for the summer evening climber. It does need to have been dry for a bit especially it you would like to climb in the tropics. Good routes over on this section of the crag include Ben Gunn and Gemmini 2 (both severe\'s but both good). A quick walk to the west will drop you down in to the Garden Wall area. The area is in general a little overgrown but the good routes are clear. This section is all about HVS 5a. Apart from some of the easier routes notably Nexus, Sexus and Plexus. Which are all superb. You should go to chudleigh and climb on this face.... not as good as the south face but it has as much character and is not as pollished.... Have Fun!!!
Canman - 13/Jun/02