A quarried limestone crag with plenty of interesting mid-grade routes up to 30m.
A mixture of sport, mixed and trad. climbs exist within the four eastern sectors (see below). The Garden Wall and Western Wall are occupied by a set of interesting traditional climbs.
The crag is generally north facing and with some patchy tree cover, so a couple of days of dry weather are generally needed to provide optimum climbing conditions, in particular to dry up the base area of the crag (it is often worth carrying a bit of carpet).
In summer, the east end of the Garden Wall is bathed in sunshine from mid. afternoon onwards; this is the premium climbing location on the North Face. The trio of routes (Plexus, Nexus and Nimrod) featured in the latest S W Climbs edition are within this sector.
The crag was used by an outdoor activity centre throughout the 2000s and this resulted in the addition of many bolts (mostly staples) in the four eastern sectors. Further to a dispute with the landowners in 2001, a number of the staples were cut. Following the dispute, the crag was neglected for a period, while there was uncertainty about access and route condition. During 2014 & 2015, the crag has been progressively inspected on abseil by the moderator and other local climbers and current route condition is being recorded in the notes on each climb.
Where a climb in one of the four eastern sectors is given a French (sport) grade, it may be presumed that it can be safely led with quickdraws only. However, in each case, the notes on the climb should be read for any additional details.
Some chopped staples may be enountered on certain trad. routes. These will have been seriously weakened by the damage and in virtually all cases should be ignored.
More generally, climbers should inspect any fixed gear carefully and should exercise judgement on reliability.
Some climbs are lost to vegetation and these are noted as such. The area is a SSSI and a number of 'no star' climbs may not now be restored, as an ecological offset to the clearance which is being progressed on the more worthwhile routes.
The amount of detail on each route on the associated UKC page is dependent on whether or not the last definitive guide (1995) provides adequate coverage (anyone without the 1995 guide is welcome to contact the moderator for full route descriptions).
Either: 1. Park on Rock Lane and walk in from there, following the same path as for the South Face climbing area. Using this approach, turn right through a gate at the point where the stone circle comes into view, then go leftwards down a set of steps towards the crags. The small crag near the stone circle is the Far Eastern Buttress.
Or: 2. With the prior agreement of the Boultons (see contact details below), you can park at Rock House. From the parking area by the house, the Garden Wall is down a path behind the house. The Eastern Area is up a track on the left; turn right and cross the small camping ground.Access notes
The Boultons (Bruce and John) are very supportive of climbing at the crag, but have asked that all climbers should call them on 01626 852134 before making a visit. It is best to call well in advance.
The Boultons have a condition that anyone climbing must hold third party insurance, such as that provided by the BMC.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
|FAR EASTERN BUTTRESS|
|4||Route 3 (the prow)||6a+||20|
|6||Route 5 (the arete)||3+||14|
|HIGHWAY 65 AREA|
|12||Highway 65||4c *||25|
|13||Central Reservation||HVS 5b|
|16||Ancient Mariner||E1 5a||3|
|18||Gemini 11||S 4a||14|
|19||Gemini 1||HS 4a *||13|
|20||Tropic of Capricorn||VS 4b **||25|
|21||Black Spring||6b+ *||4|
|22||Tropic of Cancer||HVS 4c *||14|
|THE NOTCH AREA|
|24||Benn Gunn||S 4b *||27|
|25||Long John||HVS 4c||3|
|27||The Notch||VS 4c||18|
|28||Gun Street Girl||E3 5c|
|29||Two Stroke Banana||HVS 4c||2|
|30||Little Subtleties (LH Start)||4c *||4|
|THE GARDEN WALL|
|32||Sexus||HS 4b *||8|
|33||Garden Wall Eliminate||VS 4c||3|
|34||Plexus||MVS 4b *||24|
|35||Prometheus||HVS 4c *||4|
|36||Nemesis||E1 5b *||3|
|37||Nexus||S 4a ***||49|
|39||Thornifixion||HVS 5a *||7|
|40||Nimrod||E1 5a **||11|
|41||Grey Wall Eliminate||HVS 4b, 4c||1|
|44||The Dial||HS 4b||2|
|47||Perseus||HVS 5b *||3|
|48||Perseus Direct||E1 5b|
|49||Perses||HVS 5a *|
|50||Colossus||VS 4b *||4|
|52||Caveman Rock||HS 4a||1|
|53||Hansel||HS 4a *||2|
|57||East Gully Wall||VS 4b|
|58||Bolero||HVS 4c *||1|
|59||Alpha One||E2 5b|
|63||Magic Flute||HVS 5a *||1|
|64||Rock House Corner||HVD|
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