A quarried limestone crag with plenty of interesting mid-grade routes up to 30m.
A mixture of sport, mixed and trad. climbs exist within the first four (eastern) sectors. The Garden Wall and Western Wall are occupied by a set of interesting traditional climbs.
The crag is generally north facing and with some patchy tree cover, so a couple of days of dry weather are generally needed to provide optimum climbing conditions, in particular to dry up the base area of the crag (it is often worth carrying a bit of carpet).
In summer, the east end of the Garden Wall is bathed in sunshine from mid. afternoon onwards; this is the premium climbing location on the North Face. The trio of routes (Plexus, Nexus and Nimrod) featured in the latest S W Climbs edition are within this sector.
The crag was used by an outdoor activity centre throughout the 2000s and this resulted in the addition of many bolts (mostly staples) in the four eastern sectors. Some retrobolting of older trad. routes took place. A bolted 'Via Ferrata' was also established on the Western Wall. Further to a dispute with the landowners in 2010, a number of the staples were cut. Following the dispute, the crag was neglected for a period, while there was uncertainty about access and route condition. During 2014 & 2015, the crag has been progressively inspected on abseil by the moderator and other local climbers. Worthwhile routes have been restored and current route condition is being recorded in the notes on each climb.
Where a climb in one of the four eastern sectors is given a French (sport) grade, it may be presumed that it can be led with quickdraws only. However, in each case, the notes on the particular climb should be read for any additional details.
Some chopped staples may be enountered on certain trad. routes. These will have been seriously weakened by the damage and should not be used as runners. More generally, climbers should inspect the conditions of any fixed gear carefully and should exercise judgement on reliability.
Some climbs are lost to vegetation and these are noted as such. The area is a SSSI and a number of 'no star' climbs may not now be restored, as an ecological offset to the maintenance of the more worthwhile routes in climbable condition.
The amount of detail on each route on the associated UKC page is dependent on whether or not the last definitive guide (1995) provides adequate coverage (anyone without the 1995 guide is welcome to contact the moderator for full route descriptions).
Either: 1. Park on Rock Lane and walk in from there, following the same path as for the South Face climbing area. Using this approach, turn right through a gate at the point where the stone circle comes into view, then go leftwards down a set of steps towards the crags. The small crag near the stone circle is the Far Eastern Buttress.
Or: 2. With the prior agreement of the Boultons (see contact details below), you may be able to park at Rock House or in the old nursery car park. From the parking area by the house, the Garden Wall and Western Wall are down a path behind the house. The four eastern area sectors are up a track on the left; turn right and cross the small camping ground.Access notes
The crag is on private land. The Garden Wall and Western Wall are within an ornamental garden. The Boultons (Bruce and John) are very supportive of climbing at the crag, but have asked that all climbers should call them on 01626 852134 before making a visit. It is best to call well in advance.
The Boultons have a condition that anyone climbing must hold third party insurance, such as that provided by the BMC. It is very important to absolutely minimise the risk to any other land users (campers, residents, garden visitors) from any falling rock.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
|FAR EASTERN BUTTRESS|
|4||Route 3 (the prow)||6a+||20|
|6||Route 5 (the arete)||3+||14|
|HIGHWAY 65 AREA|
|9||Devon expressway||VS 4a/b?||7|
|12||Highway 65||4c *||25|
|13||Central Reservation||HVS 5a/b|
|16||Ancient Mariner||E1 5a||3|
|18||Gemini 11||S 4a||14|
|19||Gemini 1||HS 4a *||13|
|20||Tropic of Capricorn||VS 4b **||25|
|21||Black Spring||6b+ *||4|
|22||Tropic of Cancer||HVS 4c *||14|
|THE NOTCH AREA|
|24||Benn Gunn||S 4b *||27|
|25||Long John||HVS 4c||3|
|27||The Notch||VS 4c||18|
|28||Gun Street Girl||E3 5c|
|29||Two Stroke Banana||HVS 4c||2|
|30||Little Subtleties (LH Start)||4c *||4|
|THE GARDEN WALL|
|32||Sexus||HS 4b *||8|
|33||Garden Wall Eliminate||VS 4c||3|
|34||Plexus||MVS 4b *||24|
|35||Prometheus||HVS 4c *||4|
|36||Nemesis||E1 5b *||3|
|37||Nexus||S 4a ***||49|
|39||Thornifixion||HVS 5a *||7|
|40||Nimrod||E1 5a **||11|
|41||Grey Wall Eliminate||HVS 4b, 4c||1|
|44||The Dial||HS 4b||2|
|47||Perseus||HVS 5b *||3|
|48||Perseus Direct||E1 5b|
|49||Perses||HVS 5a *|
|50||Colossus||VS 4b *||4|
|52||Caveman Rock||HS 4a||1|
|53||Hansel||HS 4a *||2|
|57||East Gully Wall||VS 4b|
|58||Bolero||HVS 4c *||1|
|59||Alpha One||E2 5b|
|63||Magic Flute||HVS 5a *||1|
|64||Rock House Corner||HVD|
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