A quarried limestone crag with plenty of interesting mid-grade routes up to 30m. A mixture of sport, mixed and trad. climbs exist within the four eastern sectors (see below). The Garden Wall and Western Wall are occupied by a set of interesting traditional climbs. The crag is generally north facing and with some patchy tree cover, so a couple of days of dry weather are generally needed to provide optimum climbing conditions, in particular to dry up the base area of the crag (it is often worth carrying a bit of carpet). In summer, the east end of the Garden Wall is bathed in sunshine from mid. afternoon onwards; this is the premium climbing location on the North Face. The trio of routes (Plexus, Nexus and Nimrod) featured in the latest S W Climbs edition are within this sector.
The crag was used by an outdoor activity centre throughout the 2000s and this resulted in the addition of many bolts (mostly staples) in the four eastern sectors. Further to a dispute with the landowners in 2001, many of the staples were cut. The crag was neglected for a period, while there was uncertainty about access and route condition. During 2014 & 2015, the crag is being progressively inspected on abseil by the moderator and other local climbers and current route condition is being recorded in the notes on each climb. Some climbs are lost to vegetation and these are noted as such. The area is a SSSI and a number of 'no star' climbs may not now be restored, as an ecological offset to the clearance which is being progressed on the more worthwhile routes. The amount of detail on each route on the associated UKC page is dependent on whether or not the last definitive guide (1995) provides adequate coverage (anyone without the 1995 guide is welcome to contact the moderator for full route descriptions).
Chudleigh North Face is within The Rock Gardens, the grounds of a private house. The land is owned by the Boulton family, who have been resident there since before local climbers first developed the cliffs in the 1960s. Over the years, the Boultons have remained very supportive of climbing and remain happy for climbers to visit. They have two conditions; firstly that you let them know in advance that you are coming to climb; secondly that you have third party liability insurance, such as that offered with BMC membership. The Boultons (Bruce and John) can be contacted on 01626 852134.
Either: 1. Park on Rock Lane and walk in from there, following the same path as for the South Face climbing area. Using this approach, turn right through a gate at the point where the stone circle comes into view, then go leftwards down a set of steps towards the crags. The small crag near the stone circle is the Far Eastern Buttress.
Or: 2. With the prior agreement of the Boultons, you can park at Rock House. From the parking area by the house, the Garden Wall is down a path behind the house. The Eastern Area is up a track on the left; turn right and cross the small camping ground.
Climbers are fortunate to have access to this climbing locality and must not jeopardise this access agreement with any sort of antisocial behaviour. The gardens are used by campers and are open to the public and it is very important that the removal of any loose rock is carefully managed. Any significant clearance of vegetation or proposals for unearthing of neglected routes should be agreed in advance with John Boulton.
|FAR EASTERN BUTTRESS|
|4||Route 3 (the prow)||6a+||17|
|6||Route 5 (the arete)||3+||14|
|HIGHWAY 65 AREA|
|12||Highway 65||4c *||20|
|15||Ancient Mariner||HS 4b||3|
|17||Gemini 11||S 4b||14|
|18||Gemini 1||HS 4a *||12|
|19||Tropic of Capricorn||VS 4b **||15|
|20||Black Spring||6b+ *|
|21||Tropic of Cancer||HVS 4c *||12|
|THE NOTCH AREA|
|23||Benn Gunn||S 4b *||27|
|24||Long John||HVS 4c||1|
|26||The Notch||VS 4c||17|
|27||Two Stroke Banana||HVS 4c||2|
|THE GARDEN WALL|
|30||Sexus||HS 4b *||8|
|31||Garden Wall Eliminate||VS 4c||3|
|32||Plexus||MVS 4b *||22|
|33||Prometheus||HVS 4c *||4|
|34||Nemesis||E1 5b *||1|
|35||Nexus||S 4a ***||38|
|37||Thornifixion||HVS 5a *||6|
|38||Nimrod||E1 5a **||6|
|39||Grey Wall Eliminate||HVS 4b, 4c|
|42||The Dial||HS 4b||2|
|45||Perseus||HVS 5b *||1|
|46||Perseus Direct||E1 5a *|
|47||Colossus||VS 4b *||4|
|49||Caveman Rock||HS 4a|
|54||East Gully Wall||VS 4b|
|55||Bolero||HVS 4c *|
|56||Alpha One||E1 5a|
|60||Rock House Corner||HVD|
|USER FEEDBACK||Login as Existing User to add your comments|
|Loads of the bolts which are in place have been chopped! It's not always obvious to see from the bottom so be aware.|
francois - 26/Jun/14
|Poor diagrams and route descriptions make it very hard to locate the routes. I mistook the muddy chimney (only mentioned in the preamble) for the muddy gully and ended up on some dity scary poorly protected thing instead of Sexus - maybe The Notch? I hope the next guide provides some photos.|
Kafoozalem - 03/May/08
|Although this is the north face it is a great spot for the summer evening climber. It does need to have been dry for a bit especially it you would like to climb in the tropics. Good routes over on this section of the crag include Ben Gunn and Gemmini 2 (both severe\'s but both good). A quick walk to the west will drop you down in to the Garden Wall area. The area is in general a little overgrown but the good routes are clear. This section is all about HVS 5a. Apart from some of the easier routes notably Nexus, Sexus and Plexus. Which are all superb. You should go to chudleigh and climb on this face.... not as good as the south face but it has as much character and is not as pollished.... Have Fun!!!|
Canman - 13/Jun/02