Just another reminder that access to the South Face of Chudleigh Rocks is NOT via the Rock Centre. Please do not park here, or at the adjacent garden centre. The North Face is to be accessed as per the description in the guidebook. Please be respectful of this private property, and don't do anything to antagonise the very tolerant owners.
ecowaller - 03/May/09
Poor diagrams and route descriptions make it very hard to locate the routes. I mistook the muddy chimney (only mentioned in the preamble) for the muddy gully and ended up on some dity scary poorly protected thing instead of Sexus - maybe The Notch? I hope the next guide provides some photos.
Kafoozalem - 03/May/08
Hi, Access to Chudleigh North Face does NOT allow access to the Rock Centres high ropes course.....any one wishing to use this can contact the centre on 07743720397. We recently aprehended 3 climbers who thought it was ok to help them selves to our facilities. They were BMC members and one worked for Snow And Rock...thanks lads Ecowaller
Robbie Warke - 27/Sep/06
Please do NOT park at the Centre or garden centre, this is private property. The access is as the south face and walk through, this has been the agreed access situation since the 1960's please do not abuse it. We at the Rock centre encourage climbing but please respect the fact that we liveand work here and that we have improved the crag for climbers. More people need to respect access agreements and not jeapordise future agreements. Robbie Warke
ecowaller - 29/Aug/06
Great crag for very hot days - stays in the shade all day. Using the S Devon & Dartmoor Guide was very confusing, as the approach for the North side is best made from the carpark next to the Garden Centre. You should call at the large house (which is the base for an outdoor activities centre) and sign the visitors book before climbing. The setup for the routes is unique in my experience - with pull-ropes in place through the top anchors on many routes to facilitate threading top-ropes, and many routes with staple bolts in place where natural gear is lacking. Hence the routes are a strange mix of trad and sport. On our visit (July 2006), many of the Garden Wall routes appeared very overgrown, and non-too appealing.
Carl Smethurst - 20/Jul/06
Although this is the north face it is a great spot for the summer evening climber. It does need to have been dry for a bit especially it you would like to climb in the tropics. Good routes over on this section of the crag include Ben Gunn and Gemmini 2 (both severe\'s but both good). A quick walk to the west will drop you down in to the Garden Wall area. The area is in general a little overgrown but the good routes are clear. This section is all about HVS 5a. Apart from some of the easier routes notably Nexus, Sexus and Plexus. Which are all superb. You should go to chudleigh and climb on this face.... not as good as the south face but it has as much character and is not as pollished.... Have Fun!!!
Canman - 13/Jun/02