Chudleigh Rocks (North Face)

Climbs 60 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
A quarried limestone crag with plenty of interesting mid-grade routes up to 30m. A mixture of sport, mixed and trad. climbs exist within the four eastern sectors (see below). The Garden Wall and Western Wall are occupied by a set of interesting traditional climbs. The crag is generally north facing and with some patchy tree cover, so a couple of days of dry weather are generally needed to provide optimum climbing conditions, in particular to dry up the base area of the crag (it is often worth carrying a bit of carpet). In summer, the east end of the Garden Wall is bathed in sunshine from mid. afternoon onwards; this is the premium climbing location on the North Face. The trio of routes (Plexus, Nexus and Nimrod) featured in the latest S W Climbs edition are within this sector.

The crag was used by an outdoor activity centre throughout the 2000s and this resulted in the addition of many bolts (mostly staples) in the four eastern sectors. Further to a dispute with the landowners in 2001, many of the staples were cut. The crag was neglected for a period, while there was uncertainty about access and route condition. During 2014 & 2015, the crag is being progressively inspected on abseil by the moderator and other local climbers and current route condition is being recorded in the notes on each climb. Some climbs are lost to vegetation and these are noted as such. The area is a SSSI and a number of 'no star' climbs may not now be restored, as an ecological offset to the clearance which is being progressed on the more worthwhile routes. The amount of detail on each route on the associated UKC page is dependent on whether or not the last definitive guide (1995) provides adequate coverage (anyone without the 1995 guide is welcome to contact the moderator for full route descriptions).

Access notes
Chudleigh North Face is within The Rock Gardens, the grounds of a private house. The land is owned by the Boulton family, who have been resident there since before local climbers first developed the cliffs in the 1960s. Over the years, the Boultons have remained very supportive of climbing and remain happy for climbers to visit. They have two conditions; firstly that you let them know in advance that you are coming to climb; secondly that you have third party liability insurance, such as that offered with BMC membership. The Boultons (Bruce and John) can be contacted on 01626 852134.

Either: 1. Park on Rock Lane and walk in from there, following the same path as for the South Face climbing area. Using this approach, turn right through a gate at the point where the stone circle comes into view, then go leftwards down a set of steps towards the crags. The small crag near the stone circle is the Far Eastern Buttress.

Or: 2. With the prior agreement of the Boultons, you can park at Rock House. From the parking area by the house, the Garden Wall is down a path behind the house. The Eastern Area is up a track on the left; turn right and cross the small camping ground.

Climbers are fortunate to have access to this climbing locality and must not jeopardise this access agreement with any sort of antisocial behaviour. The gardens are used by campers and are open to the public and it is very important that the removal of any loose rock is carefully managed. Any significant clearance of vegetation or proposals for unearthing of neglected routes should be agreed in advance with John Boulton.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 FAR EASTERN BUTTRESS  
2Route 14a 19
3Route 25c 13
4Route 3 (the prow)6a+ 17
5Route 44a 17
6Route 5 (the arete)3+ 14
 HIGHWAY 65 AREA  
8Valkyrie RibVD 4
9Devon expressway4a 7
10TristanS  
11M55a 4
12Highway 654c *20
13Route 66S 14
14Ivy LeagueD 21
15Ancient MarinerHS 4b 3
 TROPICS AREA  
17Gemini 11S 4b 14
18Gemini 1HS 4a *12
19Tropic of CapricornVS 4b **15
20Black Spring6b+ * 
21Tropic of CancerHVS 4c *12
 THE NOTCH AREA  
23Benn GunnS 4b *27
24Long JohnHVS 4c 1
25Singapore5c *11
26The NotchVS 4c 17
27Two Stroke BananaHVS 4c 2
28Little Subtleties3 4
 THE GARDEN WALL  
30SexusHS 4b *8
31Garden Wall EliminateVS 4c 3
32PlexusMVS 4b *22
33PrometheusHVS 4c *4
34NemesisE1 5b *1
35NexusS 4a ***38
36DianaVS 4c  
37ThornifixionHVS 5a *6
38NimrodE1 5a **6
39Grey Wall EliminateHVS 4b, 4c  
40ScorpionHVS 4c  
41OrionHVS 5a  
42The DialHS 4b 2
43CygnusVS 4c  
44AndromedaHVS 5a 2
45PerseusHVS 5b *1
46Perseus DirectE1 5a * 
47ColossusMVS 4c *4
48Colossus (variation)VS 4c  
49The TrackHVS  
50The Track (variation)HVS  
51Caveman RockHS 4a  
52HanselHS 4a 1
53GretelHS 4a  
54YggdraselHVS 5a  
 WESTERN WALL  
56East Gully WallVS 4b  
57BoleroHVS 4c * 
58Alpha OneE1 5a  
59SeguidillaVS 5a  
60SickleHS 4a  
61HammerVS 4b  
62Rock House CornerHVD  
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer simon wooster

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Loads of the bolts which are in place have been chopped! It's not always obvious to see from the bottom so be aware.
francois - 26/Jun/14
Poor diagrams and route descriptions make it very hard to locate the routes. I mistook the muddy chimney (only mentioned in the preamble) for the muddy gully and ended up on some dity scary poorly protected thing instead of Sexus - maybe The Notch? I hope the next guide provides some photos.
Kafoozalem - 03/May/08
Although this is the north face it is a great spot for the summer evening climber. It does need to have been dry for a bit especially it you would like to climb in the tropics. Good routes over on this section of the crag include Ben Gunn and Gemmini 2 (both severe\'s but both good). A quick walk to the west will drop you down in to the Garden Wall area. The area is in general a little overgrown but the good routes are clear. This section is all about HVS 5a. Apart from some of the easier routes notably Nexus, Sexus and Plexus. Which are all superb. You should go to chudleigh and climb on this face.... not as good as the south face but it has as much character and is not as pollished.... Have Fun!!!
Canman - 13/Jun/02