Chudleigh Rocks (North Face)

Climbs 60 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 63m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features

A quarried limestone crag with plenty of interesting mid-grade routes up to 30m.

A mixture of sport, mixed and trad. climbs exist within the four eastern sectors (see below).  The Garden Wall and Western Wall are occupied by a set of interesting traditional climbs.

The crag is generally north facing and with some patchy tree cover, so a couple of days of dry weather are generally needed to provide optimum climbing conditions, in particular to dry up the base area of the crag (it is often worth carrying a bit of carpet).

In summer, the east end of the Garden Wall is bathed in sunshine from mid. afternoon onwards; this is the premium climbing location on the North Face. The trio of routes (Plexus, Nexus and Nimrod) featured in the latest S W Climbs edition are within this sector.

The crag was used by an outdoor activity centre throughout the 2000s and this resulted in the addition of many bolts (mostly staples) in the four eastern sectors. Further to a dispute with the landowners in 2001, a number of the staples were cut. Following the dispute, the crag was neglected for a period, while there was uncertainty about access and route condition. During 2014 & 2015, the crag has been progressively inspected on abseil by the moderator and other local climbers and current route condition is being recorded in the notes on each climb.

Where a climb in one of the four eastern sectors is given a French (sport) grade, it may be presumed that it can be safely led with quickdraws only.  However, in each case, the notes on the climb should be read for any additional details.   

Some chopped staples may be enountered on certain trad. routes.  These will have been seriously weakened by the damage and in virtually all cases should be ignored.  

More generally, climbers should inspect any fixed gear carefully and should exercise judgement on reliability.     

Some climbs are lost to vegetation and these are noted as such. The area is a SSSI and a number of 'no star' climbs may not now be restored, as an ecological offset to the clearance which is being progressed on the more worthwhile routes.

The amount of detail on each route on the associated UKC page is dependent on whether or not the last definitive guide (1995) provides adequate coverage (anyone without the 1995 guide is welcome to contact the moderator for full route descriptions).

Approach notes

Either: 1. Park on Rock Lane and walk in from there, following the same path as for the South Face climbing area. Using this approach, turn right through a gate at the point where the stone circle comes into view, then go leftwards down a set of steps towards the crags. The small crag near the stone circle is the Far Eastern Buttress.

Or: 2. With the prior agreement of the Boultons (see contact details below), you can park at Rock House. From the parking area by the house, the Garden Wall is down a path behind the house. The Eastern Area is up a track on the left; turn right and cross the small camping ground.

Access notes

The Boultons (Bruce and John) are very supportive of climbing at the crag, but have asked that all climbers should call them on 01626 852134 before making a visit. It is best to call well in advance. 

The Boultons have a condition that anyone climbing must hold third party insurance, such as that provided by the BMC.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 FAR EASTERN BUTTRESS  
2Route 14a 23
3Route 25c 15
4Route 3 (the prow)6a+ 20
5Route 44a 18
6Route 5 (the arete)3+ 14
 HIGHWAY 65 AREA  
8Valkyrie RibVD 4
9Devon expresswayHS 7
10TristanS  
11M5E2 5
12Highway 654c *25
13Central ReservationHVS 5b  
14Route 66S 14
15Ivy LeagueD 22
16Ancient MarinerE1 5a 3
 TROPICS AREA  
18Gemini 11S 4a 14
19Gemini 1HS 4a *13
20Tropic of CapricornVS 4b **25
21Black Spring6b+ *4
22Tropic of CancerHVS 4c *14
 THE NOTCH AREA  
24Benn GunnS 4b *27
25Long JohnHVS 4c 3
26Singapore5c *20
27The NotchVS 4c 18
28Gun Street GirlE3 5c  
29Two Stroke BananaHVS 4c 2
30Little Subtleties (LH Start)4c *4
 THE GARDEN WALL  
32SexusHS 4b *8
33Garden Wall EliminateVS 4c 3
34PlexusMVS 4b *24
35PrometheusHVS 4c *4
36NemesisE1 5b *3
37NexusS 4a ***49
38DianaVS 4c  
39ThornifixionHVS 5a *7
40NimrodE1 5a **11
41Grey Wall EliminateHVS 4b, 4c 1
42ScorpionHVS 4c  
43OrionHVS 5a  
44The DialHS 4b 2
45CygnusVS 4c  
46AndromedaHVS 5a 3
47PerseusHVS 5b *3
48Perseus DirectE1 5b  
49PersesHVS 5a * 
50ColossusVS 4b *4
51The TrackHVS  
52Caveman RockHS 4a 1
53HanselHS 4a *2
54GretelHS 4a  
55YggdraselHVS 5a 1
 WESTERN WALL  
57East Gully WallVS 4b  
58BoleroHVS 4c *1
59Alpha OneE2 5b  
60SeguidillaVS 5a  
61SickleHS 4a  
62HammerVS 4b 1
63Magic FluteHVS 5a *1
64Rock House CornerHVD  
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer simon wooster

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