UKC

Upload an image for this crag

Climbs 28
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 67m a.s.l

Crag features

A quarry which has seen occasional toproping, abseiling and bouldering over the years. It was extensively bolted in the 90s and featured in the 1998 Cheshire & Merseyside guide. The climbing is very similar to Pex Hill - though the rock's holding power is not as good being more like Frogsmouth. Belays (trees, stakes, bolts) are available at the top of the main wall. The aviary that gave rise to the bird route names (see photos) was sadly burnt down in the 60s.

The walls can often remain damp after rain but it is a very pleasant summer venue, receiving the sun in the late afternoon. Over the last few years the quarry became neglected and overgrown but in 2022 a major clean up exposed walls not seen for 30 years. The routes are being rescued from oblivion, and bouldering is being developed on the Side Wall on the L - this is still a bit grubby and the finishes are unappealing so best to touch top or obvious holds near top and drop off onto mat. The authorisation of access is not too clear and therefore a low profile is advised - though the rangers are understood to be OK with climbing. The quarry is sometimes used by organised groups for archery and abseiling so best to visit in the evening/at weekends.



Link to topo (Not full topo):

http://www.bluedome.co.uk/Climbing/climavia.html

Approach notes

The park lies off the A58 which runs between Prescot and St Helens. When travelling from Prescot take a left into Grosvenor Road shortly after the Spar, signposted to Taylor Park. When travelling from St Helens, Grosvenor Road is on the right shortly after the quaintly named "Bird ith' Hand" pub. Park at the end of Grosvenor Road or follow signs into the park where there is a small car park. Walk into the park and veer left, skirting the lake on the higher path, past a lakeside building and straight over a crossroads in the path. The quarry entrance is down a sunken driveway ahead.

The authorisation of access is not too clear and therefore a low profile is advised.

Restricted Access

May 2022: the quarry is currently very overgrown and has been behind a locked gate for some time. There have been plans for a cleanup and it's understood the park rangers have no objection to climbing in principle.

Dealing with the Council formally has not proved to be productive (the gate is still locked) - though the rangers on site are happy with climbing. Once you are over the gate (this is unofficial advice!) it's quite serene and peaceful inside. Locals are clearing it up on the sly. The R hand wall has potential new routes and there are extensive bouldering possibilities. Keep a low profile! Check Friends of Pex on facebook for updates.
Pekkie - 23/Jun/22
Negotiations currently taking place between BMC and St Helens Youth & Ranger Services with a view to agreeing access and cleaning up/revamping venue.
Pekkie - 23/Nov/19
went for a look today - no glass nice landings but not very well bolted and soaking wet!!! Shame suffers the same as west derby cuttings.
daviesxxx - 24/Jun/12
Emailed Rob last night with a response, I would say chance it and see what comes of it but I will get onto the Council today and see what comes back and post it here.
Soap - 16/Dec/11
I live about 10 minutes away from Taylor park , but does anyone know if you allowed to climb on the bolted walls there ? I have heard i can but also i can't. really can not get a straight answer :( But does anyone no if you can ??? :
_Robert_Watson_ - 15/Dec/11
The wall opposite the bolted lines looks like it has potential for lower grade bouldering. Whether the Rangers would approve of you trampling their flower beds is another matter.
Soap - 13/Jun/10
I climbed it for a good part of 2006. it has alot of good routes but it needs cleaning up, can bed very wet
gil - 12/Feb/08
I agree. I live within 10 / 15 minutes drive of Taylor park and it would be great to see the place put to use. I realise the chavs that hang around there could prove to be a problem and it being a public park access could prove to be questionable. I'll ask around when I'm up there next. If any one have any more info please let me know!
Quixos - 12/Jan/08
Through the thick green slime and fauna there looks to be some good routes. Who would put all those new bolts and anchor points in and let this place run down??? Lets rally a clean up i say :)
tommakin - 14/Aug/07
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
Please Login or Register to log routes or add them to your wishlist
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Loading Notifications...