Slabs, with very easy access and good belaying. Extremely suitable for groups as there are a number of easy routes, with good protection and belay stakes and the top.
It looks as though there is scope for more routes above the slab area. Having said that it did look as though there might be problems with the rock crumbling, as there appeared to be some rather large pins holding the rock together! Perhaps this was an old quarry area.
There is also some good bouldering to be found on some of the outcrops above the crag and around to the north side of the crag too.
There are signs saying no climbing, but also a telephone number to get a permit to climb. The number is 01341 247284. The charge to climb is £2.50 per person (in August 2006). The man (sorry, don't know his name) seems friendly enough. (note 2007 - this crag is now on access land and the no climbing sign has been mostly scrubbed off. It seems permits are required for group use but not individually?)
As you come into Barmouth from Dolgellau, the road takes a sharp left. Here (right on the bend) there is a road leading off up the hill. Follow this all the way until you reach the parking for the 'Panorama walk'. Park here. Then follow the road opposite the parking area all the way up the hill until you reach the crags. About five minutes.
|3||Crack 1||S 4a **||130|
|4||Xebec||E1 5a *||92|
|5||Crack 2||D *||183|
|6||Backlash||E1 5c **||3|
|7||Zig Zag||VD **||156|
|8||Sugar Lumps||S *||9|
|10||Main slab||S 4a **||137|
|11||Crack 3||D **||201|
|12||Crack 4||D **||151|
|15||Gregg's Kettle||HD *||15|
|16||Twin Cracks||VD *||32|
|18||Dream Rodent||HVS 5a **||1|
|19||Upper Tier Slab Girdle||HVD||11|
|21||Stevie's Jamming Crack||S||19|
|22||AGnes Pillar Inner||VD **||5|
|23||Agnes's Pillar - outer face||S **||9|
|24||White wind||V5 6b ***|
|25||White slab||V6 6b **||4|
|26||Brilliant with Biscuits||f5 ***|
|27||Large Onions||V4 **||2|
|28||Lateral Bush *||S 4a||1|
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|Climbed quite a few of these routes Easter 2011 found the crag easily -there are good solid metal stakes for top rope anchors and terrific views from the base of the crag over the estuary. Great rock can make the climbs easy or hard as you like. Good for family groups with limited gear..Had agreat day!|
sajrf123 - 25/Apr/11