Climbs 34
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 213m a.s.l
Faces SE

Barmouth Slabs © Keri Murphy

Crag features

The nicely positioned LLECHAU'R GARN - aka ''Barmouth Slabs'' - are blessed with very easy access and good belays. The crag has 2 slabby tiers, with the best climbing found on the Lower Slab where a few of the routes are bold at the grade. Beyond the Upper Slab is the much smaller Gorllwyn Slab which has a few obvious lines but can be climbed anywhere at about Diff. The small North Crag is to the right of the slabs and is approached over scree. There is also some good bouldering potential on some of the outcrops above the crag as well as on the north side of the hill.

'New' routes are regularly claimed on these slabs, but the chances of finding virgin rock are pretty slim, particularly as the slabs have been climbed on since at least the early 1960s. What doesn't help matters is that the supposedly definitive CC Meirionnydd guide only lists a selection of climbs on the Lower Slab.

The crag is on access land and there are no climbing restrictions. Unfortunately the ease of access and the large number of easy routes mean that the crag suffers from considerable overuse by centre and other organised groups. At very busy times, it can be quite difficult to find 'free' routes as group leaders tend to selfishly rig whole sections for toproping. Best to get there early, or be patient, although a polite request to climb a specific route usually works too.





















 

Approach notes

As you drive into Barmouth from Dolgellau, the A496 takes a sharp left just before the harbour. On the apex of the bend, there is a road leading off right, signposted 'Bae Abermaw Hotel'. Follow this uphill past the hotel to a parking area on the right about 3/4 mile further on. Park here. Then, on foot, follow the steep gated road opposite the parking area up the hill to the crag; about 500m and 10-15 minutes.

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Meirionnydd (2002)
Climbed quite a few of these routes Easter 2011 found the crag easily -there are good solid metal stakes for top rope anchors and terrific views from the base of the crag over the estuary. Great rock can make the climbs easy or hard as you like. Good for family groups with limited gear..Had agreat day!
sajrf123 - 25/Apr/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Lower (Main) Slab 
2Trem y GadairHS 4a  
3SlabotomyE1 5a 6
4Crack 1S 4a **147
5XebecE1 5a *104
6Crack 2D *200
7BacklashE1 5c 5
8Zig ZagVD **172
9Sugar LumpsS 11
10Sunny DelightMS 24
11Main SlabS 4a **154
12Crack 3D **223
13Crack 4D **168
14Crack 5D 89
 Upper Slab 
16Gregg's KettleVD 18
17Overlap SlabVD * 
18Cracked Slab
-
D  
19Twin CracksVD *37
20Thin CrackHS 4b * 
21Rattly Block Climb
-
D  
22Wide CrackD  
23Wide Crack RH
-
M  
24Block Crack
-
D  
25Jagged Crack
-
D  
26No CracksMVS 4b * 
27Right CrackD 31
28Upper Tier Slab GirdleHVD 13
29White windV5 *** 
30White slabV6 **4
 North Crag 
32Dream RodentHVS 5a 3
33The Jamming CrackS 21
34Agnes' Pillar InnerVD 7
35Agnes' Pillar - Outer S 11
36Brilliant with Biscuitsf5 *** 
37Large Onions V4 **2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers sgl0jd and Dave Williams