Climbs 41
Rocktype Mica schist

Faces SE

Pylon King enjoying the exposure on Sirius (only HS!) - Lizard point © Urgles

Crag features

Incut, reliable rock. Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 170ft: many starred HVSs, and the remarkable roof route of Aboriginal Sin (E3 5c).

Approach notes

Tidal in parts.

Some parking available at Lizard Point, or (paid) in the field by the lighthouse. A few hundred metres W is the coastguard lookout (emergency phone). 50m further is a drystone wall, steep on seaward. Abseil descent (as backup) recommended.

To get to the Sirius area, the CC guide is much better as it shows the descent on the topo. The Rockfax guide though accurate is too vague, it's pot luck whether you pick the right line.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
West Cornwall & Supplement (2000)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
E2 5c *5
2QuasimodoE1 5b *31
3Rendezvous Manque
VD 8
4SiriusHS 4b *65
5Focus Puller
VD 22
6Quo VadisE1 5a *27
7Silent MovieVS 4b *72
8the goldrushHVS 4c **65
9LimelightHVS 5a **48
10Best Boy
D 16
11Mae WestHVS 5a **42
12Radio HeadS 4a 2
13Battle with an old mas beard!HS 4b 4
14Lifeboat calloutVS 4c 6
15Chorus LineVS 4c 2
16True LiesVD 6
17PlutoHS 4b 5
18Aboriginal SinE3 5c **3
19Lizard of OzHS 4b 1
20Jive PansyHVS 5a 1
21Biggy FeaturesE1 5b 1

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