UKC

Climbs 13
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces E

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Mike with his hands deep in the sharp crystal pockets. © Mark Roe

Crag features

A broken crag, rising from the forest floor up to 20 meters in height and around 100 meters in width. There are several other smaller buttresses, quarried faces and boulders dotted around the main buttress. The two bouldering areas are of reasonable quality, but the only traditional route worth doing is the three star 'Crack in the Woods'.

However, new routes are currently in development. 

Please be aware of Birds Nesting on the right hand side of the arête. This area should be avoided from may-June 

Note: 'The Rothay Roof' boulder can be found slightly down the hill of and 50 meters to the right of the main buttress.

Approach notes

The route to the crag outlined by the old access notes that were on this page now crosses private land with no public right of way. Therefore, the only legal aproach to the crag is through the access land to it's rear. A description of the best way to do this will follow shortly. 

Does anyone know the access status of the crag? I was at the main buttress yesterday, and it looked to me like I would have had to climb a wall in order to get to the crystal zone. Is there any way to get there without climbing walls? Cheers.
sparky54321 - 17/May/16
think i left my belay and biner somewhere beneath the crag so if anyone finds it let me know, cheers
Ensô - 23/Oct/11
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Climbs at this crag

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