Situated in an attractive rural area Cormot offers long single pitch climbs with great views. The main climbing area is a large limestone escarpment up to 35m high in places with a number of "bays", so it's possible to climb in sun or shade depending on the time of day or the weather.
The crag used to be quiet but since the publication of the Jingo Wobbly Bourgogne guide in 2003 has become much busier and the quality of some of the routes has deteriorated in the popular areas such as Kim. However, it's well worth a visit for the middle grade climber. Le Grande Cheminee (4+) is worth doing, especially facing outwards, Le Chant du Cygne (6A) has a superb finish, the Kim routes are all good, L'ecole (5) is great - I could go on but best to find out for yourself!
Most of the routes used to top out and the last move over was usually the crux due to bulging/rounded tops. Many of the routes have been re-equipped such that you can now lower off, but you will need twin ropes or a 70m rope on most routes to do this. If you do top out, there is an easy way down by the first climbing area (secteur j'maupoil en tete).
There is also a beginners sector called Le Gateau which has an appreciable number of short climbs mostly in the 4 to 5 grade range.
There is a Club Alpin Francais hut in Vauchignon itself which you can stay in, there are also two campsites in Nolay.
From Nolay head towards Vauchignon and by Cormot Le Petit turn right into a small lane that climbs fairly steeply. At the top it's possible to turn right and park in a couple of areas down a short rough track. Le Gateau can be found by walking down the path from this parking area.
The main crag is accessed by walking back towards the lane and then carrying on down a good track. After several hundred metres there is a path on the left which goes down into the woods and then rises again to the base of the crag by a cave.
It is also possible to access the crag from the top. Drive through Vauchignon and turn right. At the top of the hill there is a track on the right with limited parking at the end. Take care not to park on the field or block the track. Walk through the lightly wooded area heading rightwards, eventually you will come to the top of the crag. There are a number of abseil points or you can carry on until you reach the easy way down.
Bourgogne a vue (2003)
|1||J'Passe en Tete||4a||7|
|3||L'Ogre des Mers||4c||7|
|6||Petit Mars Changeant||5c||4|
|7||Fissure Alice||5a *||8|
|11||Tete de clou||4c||2|
|13||Les Fraises Sauvages||2+||3|
|15||Ecrit sur du vent||4a||4|
|16||Botteleur de Foin||5a||3|
|18||Captain Fantastique||6a+ **||6|
|20||Speedy Gonzales||5c **||7|
|23||Le Pillier||4c **||8|
|27||La J'Maupoil en Tete||4c *||5|
|29||Le Petit Pillier||5a *||6|
|30||Vire sur les Bras||5a||2|
|31||Le Diedre Oublie||5c **||3|
|33||La Cle||5c *||3|
|34||Le Grand-pere des Varappeurs||5a||1|
|35||La Bielle||4c ***||8|
|36||Passage Cloute||5c **||4|
|37||Gilbert du Moi||4a *||7|
|40||Fleur de Pierre||5a||1|
|44||Chante du Cygne||6a+ ***||4|
|47||Kim Mediane||6a **||4|
|48||Kim Directe||6a **||3|
|49||La Grande Cheminee||4a ***||3|
|51||Le Puzzle||5c *||4|
|52||Pan's People Disco Shag||6a+ *||2|
|54||La Ravisseur de l'Aube||6a+ *||2|
|58||Diedre Laurent||5c ***||3|
|59||La Bobi||6a **||2|
|64||Carmen Cru||6a *||1|
|65||In Vino Veritas||6a+ **||1|
|67||Faille Pourrie||3+ ***||2|
|68||Pied Jaloux||6c *||1|
|69||Le Rouleau Compresseur||6a||1|
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