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These details were last updated on 18/Feb/2009


Bourgogne, FRANCE

Climbs 150 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 461m a.s.l – Faces ?

Crag features
Situated in an attractive rural area Cormot offers long single pitch climbs with great views. The main climbing area is a large limestone escarpment up to 35m high in places with a number of "bays", so it's possible to climb in sun or shade depending on the time of day or the weather.

The crag used to be quiet but since the publication of the Jingo Wobbly Bourgogne guide in 2003 has become much busier and the quality of some of the routes has deteriorated in the popular areas such as Kim. However, it's well worth a visit for the middle grade climber. Le Grande Cheminee (4+) is worth doing, especially facing outwards, Le Chant du Cygne (6A) has a superb finish, the Kim routes are all good, L'ecole (5) is great - I could go on but best to find out for yourself!

Most of the routes used to top out and the last move over was usually the crux due to bulging/rounded tops. Many of the routes have been re-equipped such that you can now lower off, but you will need twin ropes or a 70m rope on most routes to do this. If you do top out, there is an easy way down by the first climbing area (secteur j'maupoil en tete).

There is also a beginners sector called Le Gateau which has an appreciable number of short climbs mostly in the 4 to 5 grade range.

There is a Club Alpin Francais hut in Vauchignon itself which you can stay in, there are also two campsites in Nolay.

Access notes
From Nolay head towards Vauchignon and by Cormot Le Petit turn right into a small lane that climbs fairly steeply. At the top it's possible to turn right and park in a couple of areas down a short rough track. Le Gateau can be found by walking down the path from this parking area.

The main crag is accessed by walking back towards the lane and then carrying on down a good track. After several hundred metres there is a path on the left which goes down into the woods and then rises again to the base of the crag by a cave.

It is also possible to access the crag from the top. Drive through Vauchignon and turn right. At the top of the hill there is a track on the right with limited parking at the end. Take care not to park on the field or block the track. Walk through the lightly wooded area heading rightwards, eventually you will come to the top of the crag. There are a number of abseil points or you can carry on until you reach the easy way down.

Bourgogne a vue (2003)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
1J'Passe en Tete4a 7
2L'Orchidee4a 5
3L'Ogre des Mers4c 5
4La Sirene4a 5
5Quetzal5a *9
6Petit Mars Changeant5c 4
7Fissure Alice5a *8
8L'Enchanteur5c *7
9Amuse-gueules4c 6
10Que Neni4a 2
11Tete de clou4c 2
12La Fraise4c 3
13Les Fraises Sauvages2+ 3
14Le Gateau4a 4
15Ecrit sur du vent4a 4
16Botteleur de Foin5a 3
17Vertige2 4
18Captain Fantastique6a+ **6
19Kim6a **13
20Speedy Gonzales5c **7
21L'Exterieure5a **10
22Clemence5a *6
23Le Pillier4c **8
24Opposition4c **8
25La Bulle5c 5
26La Vertu5a 5
27La J'Maupoil en Tete4c *5
28Bacchus5c **4
29Le Petit Pillier5a *6
30Vire sur les Bras5a 2
31Le Diedre Oublie5c **3
32L'Arbre5a *2
33La Cle5c *3
34Le Grand-pere des Varappeurs5a 1
35La Bielle4c ***7
 Climb nameGradex
36Passage Cloute5c **4
37Gilbert du Moi4a *6
38Millesime6a *3
39Boudu3+ 1
40Fleur de Pierre5a 1
41Le Piston3+ 1
42La Mysterieuse5a 1
43Lino5a 5
44Chante du Cygne6a+ ***4
45Zazizouzou6b+ **2
46Plein Soleil6a 3
47Kim Mediane6a **4
48Kim Directe6a **3
49La Grande Cheminee4a ***3
50L'Opposition5a **2
51Le Puzzle5c *4
52Pan's People Disco Shag6a+ *2
53Nougatine6b+ *2
54La Ravisseur de l'Aube6a+ *2
55Aurelie6a **1
56Philodendron6b+ ***2
57L'Italienne6a ***2
58Diedre Laurent5c ***3
59La Bobi6a **2
60Derzou Ouzala6c 1
61Forestiere5c 1
62Variance6a 1
63Ecole5a *1
64Carmen Cru6a *1
65In Vino Veritas6a+ **1
66Grat'membert6b+ 1
67Faille Pourrie3+ ***1
68Pied Jaloux6c *1
69Le Rouleau Compresseur6a 1
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