Climbs 183
Rocktype Grit (quarried)

Fiend, still under a Delusion but nearly there... © Fiend

Crag features

A lot of cleaning has been started on the Red Walls with rubbish being picked up, broken glass removed and brambles cleared from the base of the routes. A path has also been cleared along the base of the Empty Quarter Lower Tier. A lot of the old tat has also been replaced. The face between Grooved Wall and Red Wall has also seen a massive clean up opening up what looks like some easier grade routes. A big thanks to all involved with keeping this awesome quarry usable. Others can do there part just by coming and enjoying the vast amount of great routes on offer to keep thme clear.

The Red Walls and Cherry Bomb areas are fast drying even in winter. So when Wilton 1 is wet or you need to escape the crowds or your just looking for somewhere different to climb head on over to the sharp unpolished rock of Egerton.

It looks like another crag clean up is to be organised by the BMC early 2016.(Dec 2015)

Approach notes

From the Egerton side, park in the bay opposite the "Rock Fold" sign. There are new houses built where the guidebook suggests you should park. Continue up the hill and over the bridge and find the access path immediately on your right, blocked off with boulders. It is probably better to follow the access as described from Darwen if the crag ever gets busier.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lancashire Rock (2016)
Lancashire Bouldering (2014)
Lancashire Rock (1999)
July 2015 - Looking green and overgrown, take gloves, strimmer and a stiff brush... Oh and wellies
Stuart Wildman - 31/Jul/15
Overgrown, wet in the bottom and dirty / green routes. Needs a lot of gardening and then traffic to keep stuff in good nick - which I doubt it will get. Can't recommend a visit unfortunately!
James Coulson - 30/Jul/15
Lots of greenery on small ledges of many of the routes, and bushes at a lot of the bases of the routes. In short, needs a bit of gardening and a tidy up!
The Norris - 18/Jul/13
Aug 2012. Getting a bit overgrown again, and dusty. LAck of traffic seems to be showing, hardly suprisingy considering the crap summer.
bigglesbutcha - 31/Aug/12
aug 29th 2011 overgrown bog with loads slimey sandy walls pictures look far better than it really is .... not gping back there
philb - 29/Aug/11
Eleventh Hour, Guillotine and Phantom Zone climbed this eve. All good and significantly cleaner than earlier today.
Rich Kirby - 12/May/09
Really recommend Esmerelda and the E1 next to it. Both nice routes with no stars.
rpbostock - 12/Aug/08
Nature seems to have taken hold once again - a few of the classic lines are clean (such as Cherry Bomb), but in general its pretty overgrown.
ColinAus - 27/Jul/08
Bit of a Dive, VS routes are half-decent tho
Craigm411 - 26/Mar/07
Egerton's very fine climbing is gradually reappearing and being reappreciated!! Following a clean-up day in May 2004, some areas of the quarry are in considerably better condition. See http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=84761 and http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=92210 for details. Wood Buttress is in particularly good condition and proving popular, as are various mid-grade routes around the quarry including of course the ever-popular Cherry Bomb area. And some good people are keeping cleaning more routes to expose their true quality. So if you like quarried grit climbing you don't have any excuse for avoiding it - visit the quarry, enjoy it's good, accessible, mid-grade routes, and thus help keep it in good condition for others to enjoy.
Fiend - 16/Jul/04
I went there last night and we did Renaissance E5, Satin Sapphire E3, Phantom Zone E3 and Surfin Bird E3. Also this year we have done Third time lucky E3, Stolen goods E4, Lucky Heather E4, Alec trench E5 and Walking on glass E4 all these routes are prety good and there are plenty of other routes to go at. The trouble is some people can't see past their noses, or at least the brambles. A couple of hours work at the clean up, tommorow, requires virtually no effort and would be much appreciated so try and get down there to help made Egerton a veggie free venue.
Geoff Hibbert - 07/May/04
Went to have a gander and decided this "could" be the best in the area (bar houghton) if only it was cleared and people actually climbed there. Watch out when going to the bottom as we got lost and ended up on a golf course.
Neil - 04/Jul/03
Take a brush for harder routes. Cherry Bomb is one of the best VS routes on quarried grit, i.e. it won't fall on you and has great gear. Dizzy the Desert Snake (E1, easy if you're tall) and God Save The Queen (HVS, long and pumpy) are also highly recommended. Take a machete for the descents.
Duncan Irving - 15/May/03
Cherry bomb was hilarious - Jam, or layback - ergo Goliath's Groove Stanage. Watch out for evil brambles on descent.
lee - 31/Oct/02
There are some good routes here, although they are all VS and above. Cherry Bomb is worth doing. Egerton just needs a bit of traffic and it could become a very good venue.
James - 29/Aug/02
Visited the quarry on 14/07/02.No sign that anyone has been there for ages to climb.Why?
Paul Glover - 19/Jul/02
I went to this place to have a look. It is totally overgrown at the moment and the rock hasn\'t seen chalk for a while. Yuck!
GCW - 14/May/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Bridge Area - Blackburn side 
2Colgy
-
HS 4b 1
3The Arete
-
VS 5b  
4Wide Crack
-
VD 3
5Toots
-
E2 5c  
6The Nose
-
VS 4c *1
7Wiad
-
S 4a 1
8Hydrophobia
-
HVS 5a  
9Rabid
-
HVS 5a  
10No Screws in Skem
-
E1 5b 1
11Black Dog
-
E1 5c * 
12The Beauty of Poison
-
E1 5b  
13Ceremony
-
VS 4c **2
14Green Thoughts
-
HS 4b 1
 Grooved Wall 
16Trumpton
-
S 4a 1
17Aethelred
-
E2 5b * 
18Aethelred GrooveHS 4b *2
19The Creaking Fossil
-
HVS 4c  
20Letter-box
-
HVS 5b  
21Headspin Cleft
-
VS 5b  
22All in the Mind
-
E2 5b  
23Vlad the Implayer
-
S 4a 5
24Walking on Glass
-
E4 6b * 
25Cutting Edge
-
VS 4c 1
26Black Arm
-
S 4a 4
27New Groove
-
HS 4b 3
28Sparkin' Bush
-
VS 4b *3
29Blue Strawberry
-
VD 8
30Chopper Chimney
-
S 4a 6
31Guillotine
-
E3 5c ***3
32The Cutter
-
VS 4c  
33That's Life
-
VS 4c * 
34Shudabindun
-
E1 5b *2
35Sham '69
-
VS 4c *1
36Big Mouth
-
VS 4c  
 Red Wall 
38Needle Stick
-
HVS 4c 1
39Dicktrot II - The Movie
-
E2 5c 3
40Mumbled Prayer
-
E3 6a *3
41The Eleventh HourE4 6a **4
42Red Wall DirectE1 5b *32
43Esmeralda
-
HVS 5a 20
44By Hook or by Crook
-
HS 4b 5
45Variation FinishMVS 4b 2
46Three Pint Primer
-
VS 4b 2
 Higher Red Wall 
48Snooze you LoseHVS 4c  
49Why Climb Left?
-
VS 4c  
50Why Climb Right?
-
VS 4c 1
51Third Time Lucky
-
E3 5c *4
52Dizzy the Desert Snake
-
E1 5b *14
53Desert DustHS 4b 23
54Centre of Gravity
-
HS 4b 5
55Malvinas
-
HS 4b *20
56DodgerS 4a 19
57State of Awareness
-
HVS 5a 3
58Think Light
-
VS 4c 3
59Wormhole
-
HVS 4c 7
60CrackVD 6
61The Razor's Edge
-
HVS 4b  
 Cherry Bomb Area 
63Silk Cut
-
E2 5c 19
64Satin Sapphire
-
E3 5c ***6
65Cherry Bomb
-
VS 4c ***99
66Brightside Revisited
-
E3 6a ** 
67Planet of the Apes
-
HVS 5a  
68Whitewater Rafting
-
VS 4b *22
69Proper Gander
-
VS 4b 3
70Red ShiftVS 4c 6
71RenaissanceE5 6a ***13
 Empty Quarter - Upper Tier 
73Spreadeagle
-
S 4a 2
74Lost in Egerton
-
VS 4c  
75Dribbles
-
HVS 5b  
76Cancer
-
VS 4c  
77Step into the Groove
-
E2 5c * 
 Phantom Wall 
79Phantom Zone Left-hand
-
E3 5c *** 
80Phantom Zone
-
E2 5c **1
81Tasty
-
E4 6b  
82Return of the Native
-
E1 5c  
 Streaked Wall 
84Street Legal
-
E1 5c  
85Double of Quits
-
HVS 5b  
86Vulture
-
HVS 5a  
 Empty Quarter - Lower Tier 
88Monkey Trick
-
VS 5a 2
89Organ Grinder
-
HVS 5b  
90Empty Arete
-
HVS 5a  
91Space Between my Ears
-
HS 4a 1
92Swamp Dog
-
S 4a *4
93Alvin's Wild West Rodeo Show
-
S 4a 3
94Precious Cargo
-
E1 5b ** 
95Kamikaze CoconutHS 4b *7
96Lazy Bones
-
S 4a 3
97Bone Shaker
-
VS 4c 1
98Just for the Finger Jam
-
S 4a 1
 Cholera Area 
100Cholera
-
HVS 5a **4
101Cracker
-
HVS 5a  
102Summer Lightning
-
E4 6b ** 
103Alchemy
-
VS 4c  
104The Open Book
-
E1 5b *3
 Lonely Wall 
106Lucky Heather
-
E4 5c ** 
107Welcome to the Jungle
-
E4 5c ** 
108Running on Empty
-
E5 6a ** 
109Nasty Little Lonely
-
HVS 4b  
110Mental Mantel
-
E2 5b * 
111The Water Margin
-
HVS 5a *2
112Surfin' Bird
-
E3 5b *2
113Changing of the Guards
-
E3 5c * 
114Long Distance Runner
-
E3 5c * 
115Initiation
-
E2 5c *1
 Hidden Wall 
117Bombing Basil
-
E1 5b  
 Red Prow 
119Red Prow Original
-
VS 4b  
120Stringbiff
-
VS 4c  
121The Field of DreamsVS 5a 2
122Acme Surplus Overhang
-
E2 5a 1
123Rhythm of the Heat
-
E1 5c  
124Omelette
-
VS 4c  
125Falling off the Edge of the World
-
E3 5c ** 
126Gnat Attack
-
VS 4c 2
127Roadrunner Pinnacle
-
HVS 4c * 
128Don't Stop Believing
-
E2 5c * 
129Chalk Lightning Crack
-
E2 5b **6
130Nobody Wept for Alec TrenchE5 6a ***6
131Ice Cool Acid Test
-
E4 6a ***4
132White OutHS 4b **5
133Specific Gravity
-
E3 5c  
 Alcove Wall 
135Dust at Dusk
-
S 4a 1
136Vortex
-
E8 6c ** 
137Each Way Nudger
-
E3 6b * 
 The Amphitheatre 
139Brittle-Fingers
-
E1 5b  
140Fathomathon
-
E2 5b  
141Bob Bandits
-
HVS 5b  
142Amphitheatre Direct
-
VS 4c ** 
143Life During Wartime
-
HVS 5b  
144Peace Dividend
-
VS 4c ** 
145Amphitheatre Terrace
-
VD 1
146Saffron
-
E1 5b  
147Spindrift
-
E1 4c  
148Windchill
-
HS 4b 1
149Spin
-
VS 4b ** 
150Zoot Chute
-
VS 4b **13
151The Reaper
-
E6 6c ***1
 Wood Buttress Area 
153I Shot Jason KingE5 6a **4
154Confusion
-
E3 5c  
155Lubalin
-
E2 5b *6
156Ten Minutes Before the WormVS 4c *7
157DelusionE3 6a * 
158God Save the QueenHVS 5a *53
159Gallows PoleHVS 5a **52
160Niff-Niff the Guinea PigE2 5b 5
161Naff-Naff (The Route)
-
E2 5b 1
162Bag of Bones
-
HVS 4c  
163The Disappearing Chip Buttie TraverseE1 5b **3
164Wednesday CornerVS 4b *9
165One Minute to Midnight
-
E3 5c * 
166InspidityVS 4c *4
167Field of Screams
-
E2 5b  
168Dickie's MeadowHS 4b *3
169Temptation
-
E2 6b  
170Money ShotE5 6b **1
171The Lamb Lies Down on Broadway
-
E4 6a  
172DicktrotE1 5c 1
173Shaky Flakes
-
S 4a 1
174Neighbourhood Threat
-
HVS 5a  
 Bridge Area - Bolton side 
176Dipper
-
E2 5c  
177Natural Victim
-
VS 4c  
178Ludwig
-
S 4a 1
179Feeding the Rat
-
HVS 5a * 
180Rat Trap
-
S *1
181Just Out
-
S 4a *1
182Twilight Crack
-
S 4a 3
183Bridge Crack
-
VS 5a *1
184Cleft Climb
-
VS 4c  
185Markova
-
S 4a 1
186Thin Crack
-
HS 4b 1
187Broken Toe
-
HVS 5a 1
188Broken Jokesf7B ** 
189Beneath the Bridge
-
f5 1
190Spandex
-
f6A 1
191Broken Toe
-
f4 1
192Tiny Teets
-
f6C *1
193Hit the Buzzer
-
f6B *1
194The Nose
-
f5 1
195Groovy Mantle Baby *E2 5c *1
196Old Creaky *VS 4c *2
197Spare Rib *VS 4c 1
198Battle of the Bulge *
-
HVS 5b *1
199Short Sharp Shock *E2 5c * 
200Edgelert *
-
E1 5c * 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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