Egerton Quarry

Climbs 182 – Rocktype Grit (quarried) – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
The graffiti wall area is now someone's garden. [Duncan Irving 5/03]

Approach notes
From the Egerton side, park in the bay opposite the "Rock Fold" sign. There are new houses built where the guidebook suggests you should park. Continue up the hill and over the bridge and find the access path immediately on your right, blocked off with boulders. It is probably better to follow the access as described from Darwen if the crag ever gets busier.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Lancashire Bouldering (2014), Western Grit (2009), Lancashire Rock (1999)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2ColgyHS 4b 1
3The AreteVS 5b  
4Wide CrackVD 1
5TootsE2 5c  
6The NoseVS 4c *1
7WiadS 4a 1
8HydrophobiaHVS 5a  
9RabidHVS 5a  
10No Screws in SkemE1 5b  
11Black DogE1 5c * 
12The Beauty of PoisonE1 5b  
13CeremonyVS 4c **1
14Green ThoughtsHS 4b 1
16TrumptonS 4a 1
17AethelredE2 5b * 
18Aethelred GrooveHS 4b *1
19The Creaking FossilHVS 4c  
20Letter-boxHVS 5b  
21Headspin CleftVS 5b  
22All in the MindE2 5b  
23Vlad the ImplayerS 4a 5
24Walking on GlassE4 6b * 
25Cutting EdgeVS 4c 1
26Black ArmS 4a 4
27New GrooveHS 4b 2
28Sparkin' BushVS 4b *2
29Blue StrawberryVD 7
30Chopper ChimneyS 4a 6
31GuillotineE3 5c ***2
32The CutterVS 4c  
33That's LifeVS 4c * 
34ShudabindunE1 5b * 
35Sham '69VS 4c * 
36Big MouthVS 4c  
38Needle StickHVS 4c 1
39Dicktrot II - The MovieE2 5c 2
40Mumbled PrayerE3 6a *1
41The Eleventh HourE4 6a **4
42Red Wall DirectE1 5b *20
43EsmeraldaHVS 5a 15
44By Hook or by CrookHS 4b 4
45Variation FinishMVS 4b 2
46Three Pint PrimerVS 4b 2
48Why Climb Left?VS 4c  
49Why Climb Right?VS 4c 1
50Third Time LuckyE3 5c *1
51Dizzy the Desert SnakeE1 5b *7
52Desert DustHS 4b 22
53Centre of GravityHS 4b 5
54MalvinasHS 4b *19
55DodgerS 4a 19
56State of AwarenessHVS 5a 3
57Think LightVS 4c 3
58WormholeHVS 4c 7
59CrackVD 5
60The Razor's EdgeHVS 4b  
62Silk CutE2 5c 16
63Satin SapphireE3 5c ***6
64Cherry BombVS 4c ***69
65Brightside RevisitedE3 6a ** 
66Planet of the ApesHVS 5a  
67Whitewater RaftingVS 4b *20
68Proper GanderVS 4b 3
69Red ShiftVS 4c 3
70RenaissanceE5 6a ***7
72SpreadeagleS 4a 1
73Lost in EgertonVS 4c  
74DribblesHVS 5b  
75CancerVS 4c  
76Step into the GrooveE2 5c * 
78Phantom Zone Left-handE3 5c *** 
79Phantom ZoneE2 5c **1
80TastyE4 6b  
81Return of the NativeE1 5c  
83Street LegalE1 5c  
84Double of QuitsHVS 5b  
85VultureHVS 5a  
87Monkey TrickVS 5a 1
88Organ GrinderHVS 5b  
89Empty AreteHVS 5a  
90Space Between my EarsHS 4a 1
91Swamp DogS 4a *4
92Alvin's Wild West Rodeo ShowS 4a 3
93Precious CargoE1 5b ** 
94Kamikaze CoconutHS 4b *6
95Lazy BonesS 4a 3
96Bone ShakerVS 4c  
97Just for the Finger JamS 4a 1
99CholeraHVS 5a **3
100CrackerHVS 5a  
101Summer LightningE4 6b ** 
102AlchemyVS 4c  
103The Open BookE1 5b *3
105Lucky HeatherE4 5c ** 
106Welcome to the JungleE4 5c ** 
107Running on EmptyE5 6a ** 
108Nasty Little LonelyHVS 4b  
109Mental MantelE2 5b * 
110The Water MarginHVS 5a *1
111Surfin' BirdE3 5b *2
112Changing of the GuardsE3 5c * 
113Long Distance RunnerE3 5c * 
114InitiationE2 5c *1
116Bombing BasilE1 5b  
118Red Prow OriginalVS 4b  
119StringbiffVS 4c  
120The Field of DreamsVS 5a 2
121Acme Surplus OverhangE2 5a 1
122Rhythm of the HeatE1 5c  
123OmeletteVS 4c  
124Falling off the Edge of the WorldE3 5c ** 
125Gnat AttackVS 4c 2
126Roadrunner PinnacleHVS 4c * 
127Don't Stop BelievingE2 5c * 
128Chalk Lightning CrackE2 5b **2
129Nobody Wept for Alec TrenchE5 6a ***6
130Ice Cool Acid TestE4 6a ***4
131White OutHS 4b **4
132Specific GravityE3 5c  
134Dust at DuskS 4a 1
135VortexE8 6c ** 
136Each Way NudgerE3 6b * 
138Brittle-FingersE1 5b  
139FathomathonE2 5b  
140Bob BanditsHVS 5b  
141Amphitheatre DirectVS 4c ** 
142Life During WartimeHVS 5b  
143Peace DividendVS 4c ** 
144Amphitheatre TerraceVD 1
145SaffronE1 5b  
146SpindriftE1 4c  
147WindchillHS 4b 1
148SpinVS 4b ** 
149Zoot ChuteVS 4b **12
150The ReaperE6 6c ***1
152I Shot Jason KingE5 6a **4
153ConfusionE3 5c  
154LubalinE2 5b *5
155Ten Minutes Before the WormVS 4c *6
156DelusionE3 6a * 
157God Save the QueenHVS 5a *38
158Gallows PoleHVS 5a **37
159Niff-Niff the Guinea PigE2 5b 4
160Naff-Naff (The Route)E2 5b 1
161Bag of BonesHVS 4c  
162The Disappearing Chip Buttie TraverseE1 5b **1
163Wednesday CornerVS 4b *8
164One Minute to MidnightE3 5c * 
165InspidityVS 4c *3
166Field of ScreamsE2 5b  
167Dickie's MeadowHS 4b *3
168TemptationE2 6b  
169Money ShotE5 6b **1
170The Lamb Lies Down on BroadwayE4 6a  
171DicktrotE1 5c 1
172Shaky FlakesS 4a 1
173Neighbourhood ThreatHVS 5a  
175DipperE2 5c  
176Natural VictimVS 4c  
177LudwigS 4a 1
178Feeding the RatHVS 5a * 
179Rat TrapS *1
180Just OutS 4a *1
181Twilight CrackS 4a 3
182Bridge CrackVS 5a *1
183Cleft ClimbVS 4c  
184MarkovaS 4a 1
185Thin CrackHS 4b 1
186Broken ToeHVS 5a 1
187Broken Jokesf7B ** 
188Beneath the Bridge *f5 1
189Spandex *f6A 1
190Broken Toe *f4 1
191Tiny Teets *f6C *1
192Hit the Buzzer *f6B *1
193The Nose *f5 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer michael burrows

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
July 2015 - Looking green and overgrown, take gloves, strimmer and a stiff brush... Oh and wellies
Stuart Wildman - 31/Jul/15
Overgrown, wet in the bottom and dirty / green routes. Needs a lot of gardening and then traffic to keep stuff in good nick - which I doubt it will get. Can't recommend a visit unfortunately!
dashed - 30/Jul/15
Lots of greenery on small ledges of many of the routes, and bushes at a lot of the bases of the routes. In short, needs a bit of gardening and a tidy up!
The Norris - 18/Jul/13
Aug 2012. Getting a bit overgrown again, and dusty. LAck of traffic seems to be showing, hardly suprisingy considering the crap summer.
bigglesbutcha - 31/Aug/12
aug 29th 2011 overgrown bog with loads slimey sandy walls pictures look far better than it really is .... not gping back there
philb - 29/Aug/11
Eleventh Hour, Guillotine and Phantom Zone climbed this eve. All good and significantly cleaner than earlier today.
Rich Kirby - 12/May/09
Red Wall Direct, at the top of the crack line on the right side there is a very lose block, caution is required
Inca:) - 03/May/09
Really recommend Esmerelda and the E1 next to it. Both nice routes with no stars.
rpbostock - 12/Aug/08
Nature seems to have taken hold once again - a few of the classic lines are clean (such as Cherry Bomb), but in general its pretty overgrown.
ColinAus - 27/Jul/08
Bit of a Dive, VS routes are half-decent tho
Craigm411 - 26/Mar/07
Egerton's very fine climbing is gradually reappearing and being reappreciated!! Following a clean-up day in May 2004, some areas of the quarry are in considerably better condition. See and for details. Wood Buttress is in particularly good condition and proving popular, as are various mid-grade routes around the quarry including of course the ever-popular Cherry Bomb area. And some good people are keeping cleaning more routes to expose their true quality. So if you like quarried grit climbing you don't have any excuse for avoiding it - visit the quarry, enjoy it's good, accessible, mid-grade routes, and thus help keep it in good condition for others to enjoy.
Fiend - 16/Jul/04
I went there last night and we did Renaissance E5, Satin Sapphire E3, Phantom Zone E3 and Surfin Bird E3. Also this year we have done Third time lucky E3, Stolen goods E4, Lucky Heather E4, Alec trench E5 and Walking on glass E4 all these routes are prety good and there are plenty of other routes to go at. The trouble is some people can't see past their noses, or at least the brambles. A couple of hours work at the clean up, tommorow, requires virtually no effort and would be much appreciated so try and get down there to help made Egerton a veggie free venue.
Geoff Hibbert - 07/May/04
Went to have a gander and decided this "could" be the best in the area (bar houghton) if only it was cleared and people actually climbed there. Watch out when going to the bottom as we got lost and ended up on a golf course.
Neil - 04/Jul/03
Take a brush for harder routes. Cherry Bomb is one of the best VS routes on quarried grit, i.e. it won't fall on you and has great gear. Dizzy the Desert Snake (E1, easy if you're tall) and God Save The Queen (HVS, long and pumpy) are also highly recommended. Take a machete for the descents.
Duncan Irving - 15/May/03
Cherry bomb was hilarious - Jam, or layback - ergo Goliath's Groove Stanage. Watch out for evil brambles on descent.
lee - 31/Oct/02
There are some good routes here, although they are all VS and above. Cherry Bomb is worth doing. Egerton just needs a bit of traffic and it could become a very good venue.
James - 29/Aug/02
Visited the quarry on 14/07/02.No sign that anyone has been there for ages to climb.Why?
Paul Glover - 19/Jul/02
I went to this place to have a look. It is totally overgrown at the moment and the rock hasn\'t seen chalk for a while. Yuck!
GCW - 14/May/02