Very interesting slab above Conwy and ideal for beginners! Popular with groups especially the local outdoor centre - Oaklands. If just starting out and have rigging rope, you can bottom rope, but if up for the lead, head to the routes on the right as the final meter or two is a very nice cruxy finish with little protection!
[We don't recommend that first leaders try badly-protected routes; this isn't a crag for first-time leaders - UKC Ed]
At the top of the crag there are a few stakes in good condition! Probably ideal for abseil practice as there isnt many ledges or features and the stakes at the top are perfect for this. [nolo 10/06]
[CHECK ANY STAKE YOU MIGHT ABSEIL OFF. Can you kick it? Pull it? Is it metal, wood? Take care and back up your abseil anchors: use at least two independent ones, rigged so they don't have the deadly triangle of forces. And if you don't know what that is, don't abseil - UKC Ed]
No access problems known of. National trust land.
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|On the left hand side of crag is possibly the best ever first lead. Nice crack in middle of slab with good positive gear placements.|
chopkins1969 - 27/May/10