Glenmarksie Crag

Climbs 35 – Rocktype Schist – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
This pleasant crag gets a lot of sun and dries quickly. Climbing is possible all year around.

Routes mostly < 30 m with abseil descents.

Must Do: Sea of Tranquility HVS and Proteus HVS both of a slabby nature. Most routes on the main wall to the route are excellent.

For a pumpfest go for Strategic Arms Limitation E4 which gently leans 1 in 4 with good gear if you can hang around long enough.

A thorough clean of the popular routes is being completed and the bracken cut from the approach path and below the crag, now much more pleasant in summer. No worse ticks than elsewhere in Strathconon! Put DEET around ankles, middle and wrist and they wont be so interested any more! The NH vol2 guide has the finishes of Wild Mint and Walk on By transposed; Wild Mint is VS 4b not Severe and takes the rt side of the wedge then finishes up the obvious corner above the bush. Walk on By, though not such a good route is VS 4c and goes up the left side of the wedge then traverses right and up to finish. There are lower-offs/abs from the tree above Phobos/Deimos and from the 'trig point' up and left of Sea of Tranquillity, directly above The Juggler. As of the 1st July there is now a sling/krab on the tree above Proteus (to the left of the big Birch tree above Phobos/Deimos) for an ab/lower off, please leave. Note - be aware that some of the 'fixed' equipment comes and goes or is old (March 2014).

Top Crag has several good strenuous and well protected crack climbs very different in style from the Main Crag and worth a bit of a clean to keep in good condition. It is best reached by keeping to the right of the Main Crag on the approach or by moving from the top of the Main Crag rightwards an eventually downwards. There is also a Middle Crag with two scruffy routes of V.Diff and Severe withg potential for more if cleaned. On the far right is Right Crag (good name!) with a 25m E2 5b on it.

To help keep the cracks free of heather and grass could folk 'broddle' any out whilst climbing? This would save a huge amount of work on the 'stitch in time' principle. Thank you. There are too few sunny south-facing crags and its worth keeping this one in good nick.

Access notes
From Contin take the single track road past Loch Achilty and after a few miles and just past the power station the road splits where it crosses the river. Take the right branch to a parking spot by the gate. This is open 8am to 5pm weekdays but often locked at weekends. Either drive or walk the half-mile to a parking spot, cross the dam and follow the new road to where it bends left then cut up the hillside by the trees - faint path - which is to the right of the crag then to traverse leftwards underneath it; 15 minutes or so from the dam.

Northern Highlands Central (2006),
Out of print: Northern Highlands Vol. 2 (1993)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1KojacVS 5a * 
2StaircaseVD * 
3Two StepS 4b  
4Small Wall ThinsS 4a 4
5Dogg'edVS 4c *4
6Hot DogE3 5c * 
7Dog LegVD *6
8The ConjurerHVS 5b **4
9The JokerE2 5b **2
10Sea of TranquillityHVS 5a **26
11An Fear Feusagach/SeleneHVS 5b **7
12Sickle MoonHVS 5a *12
13Walk on byVS 4c 15
14Wild MintMVS 4b *9
15Glen Marxie BrothersHVS 5a *8
16DynamiteE2 5c *4
17ProteusHVS 5a **19
18PhobosE2 5c ***10
19DeimosE3 5c ***7
20CallistoVS 5a **13
21Greased LightningHVS 5a *4
22Strategic Arms LimitationE4 6a *** 
23CerberusE7 6c *** 
24HeliosE2 5b ** 
25Hiroshima GroovesHVS 5b *2
26Super BeetleV5 1
28TiddlyV0 5b  
29PomVS 5b  
30Left UnprintableE2 6b * 
31Right UnprintableE2 5c ** 
32Man O' WarE4 6b ** 
33Bridging the GapE3 5c ** 
34Gritstone CornerHVS 5a * 
35Jumping Jack SplatE2 5c * 
36Red Ant CrackMVS 4b  
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Sling/ Krab gone from tree above Phobos - 23 September 2012.
jtpj777 - 24/Sep/12
Due to vandalism / theft, the gate may be found locked at weekends (should be open 8am - 5pm weekdays), but this will only add 5-10 mins to the walk in.
Jimmy56 - 24/May/10
Best avoided in Tick season but decent, grippy rock and short walk in make it a useful stop off.
richardr - 19/Oct/08