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Glenmarksie CragRoss & Cromarty, SCOTLAND
Climbs 35 – Rocktype Schist – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces S
Routes mostly < 30 m with abseil descents.
Must Do: Sea of Tranquility HVS and Sickle Moon HVS both of a slabby nature. Most routes on the main wall to the route are excellent.
For a pumpfest go for Strategic Arms Limitation E4 which gently leans 1 in 4 with good gear if you can hang around long enough.
A thorough clean of the popular routes has just been completed and the bracken cut from the approach path and below the crag, now much more pleasant in summer. No worse ticks than elsewhere in Strathconon! Put DEET around ankles, middle and wrist and they wont be so interested any more! The NH vol2 guide has the finishes of Wild Mint and Walk on By transposed; Wild Mint is VS 4b not Severe and takes the rt side of the wedge then finishes up the obvious corner above the bush. Walk on By, though not such a good route is VS 4c and goes up the left side of the wedge then traverses right and up to finish. There are lower-offs/abs from the tree above Phobos/Deimos and from the 'trig point' up and left of Sea of Tranquillity, directly above The Juggler. As of the 1st July there is now a sling/krab on the tree above Proteus (to the left of the big Birch tree above Phobos/Deimos) for an ab/lower off, please leave. Note - be aware that some of the 'fixed' equipment comes and goes or is old (March 2014).
Top Crag has several good strenuous and well protected crack climbs very different in style from the Main Crag and worth a bit of a clean to keep in good condition. It is best reached by keeping to the right of the Main Crag on the approach or by moving from the top of the Main Crag rightwards an eventually downwards. There is also a Middle Crag with two scruffy routes of V.Diff and Severe withg potential for more if cleaned. On the far right is Right Crag (good name!) with a 25m E2 5b on it.
To help keep the cracks free of heather and grass could folk 'broddle' any out whilst climbing? This would save a huge amount of work on the 'stitch in time' principle. Thank you. There are too few sunny south-facing crags and its worth keeping this one in good nick.
Climbs at this crag
From Contin take the single track road past Loch Achilty and after a few miles and just past the power station the road splits where it crosses the river. Take the right branch to a parking spot by the gate. This is open 8am to 5pm weekdays but often locked at weekends. Either drive or walk the half-mile to a parking spot, cross the dam and follow the new road to where it bends left then cut up the hillside by the trees - faint path - which is to the right of the crag then to traverse leftwards underneath it; 15 minutes or so from the dam.
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