Climbs 98
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 333m a.s.l
Faces SW

Mane Vision © Dave Warburton

Crag features

The crag is in a pleasant situation on the edge of Blakey Ridge, overlooking Farndale. Though there are some easier climbs here, the quality is mainly confined to the middle and higher grades. The crag specialises in hard, short, technical and often bold routes in the E2-E6 range.

The boulder beneath the pinnacle has some worthwhile problems as well as a very hard project on its front face.

Approach notes

This accessible crag is not visible from the road. The best approach is from the Lion Inn. Follow the wall and continue in a southwesterly direction. Cross the old railway and continue downwards and the crag will soon be encountered. 10 minutes from the Lion Inn.

A nice place to climb, routes are undergraded.
James Oakes - 31/Jul/10
If you listen to the grades and attempt to onsight the harder routes at this crag you will die or be badly maimed.
Franco Cookson OLD - 15/Nov/09
A beautiful place to climb, but a little green in places.
Hitch - 18/Aug/09
Incredibly hard routes. In an owe-inspiring situation- if you're going to climb hard anywhere- this is the palce.
Franco Cookson - 18/Feb/08
Quality crag, a great concentration of very hard climbing, in a excellent place, with great views into Farndale and the Pub is only 5 minutes walk away. Worth a trip.
DaveWarb - 02/Feb/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Lion Buttress 
2Kitty Cat
VS 4b  
3Twin CracksE1 5b 4
4The Lioness
HVS 5b 4
5Mane VisionE4 6b **6
6KittenVS 5a 2
7The Big Cat
E2 6a **4
8Can you do the Can Can?f6A+ *5
9The Candy Man Canf6B+ *3
 The Pinnacle 
11Heel of ApprovalE4 6b 6
12Pippi LongstockingE5 6c **1
13Farndale FayreE5 6b **5
14Time OutE3 6a ***7
15Fresh Arete (siderunners)E5 6b **5
16Fresh Arete (no siderunners)E7 6b **3
17Scut de Scun aiE6 6b **2
18Picnic @ At Hanging Rock
XS 4c  
E4 5c 3
20Pillar TorqueVD 8
21OctopetE4 6b *4
22Honey AreteE5 6b ***6
23Vampiric ObsessionE5 6b **7
24The Honey Badger Link UpE5 6a *1
25Vampiric RecessionE3 5c *3
26Idle IgnoranceE2 5c 3
27A Fistful of PotashE6 6a 4
28Scut de scum ayef5+ 1
29Quim FingersHVS 5a  
30SafariS * 
31Mastodon DreamsE2 5c  
 The Right Flank 
33DitherE2 6a *7
34Beaver FeverE1 5c *6
HVS 5c  
HVS 5a  
37WanderS 3
38Black OutE4 6b *3
39Flake CrackVD 7
40Dirty Girl
VS 5a 11
41Slippery Nipple
VS 5a 4
42Sarah's Route
VD 6
43Just Green
44Giant Smarties
S 4
46Tournament of ShadowsE4 6a *1
 Pannierman Boulder 
48Fat Cactusf6A+ *5
49Pannierman's Aretef6B *6
50Pannierman's Arete SSf6B+ **3
51Slabbierman's Aretef5+ *2
53Christmas RoundnessVI 9 1
54Round CigarIV 5 *1
 Other Bouldering 
56Rainbow Wall - 7af7A 3
57Low Roof 6cf6C 1
58Side Kickf7A+ **1
59Side Kick RHf7A *5
60Problem 3.8f5 2
61The Dragonf6A 2
62Arete Below Black Outf7A 1
63Chasing Rainbowsf7C ***4
64Micro Traversef5+ 1
65You Are Heref5 1
66Second Naturef4 2
67Variety Crack - Left Sidef6A *1
68Variety Crackf4 2
69Variety Crack - Right Sidef5 1
70Micro Quarry - Problem 5f4 1

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