The main wall is a west facing slab with a few lines, the quarry entrance also features an interesting pinnacle with two climbs on.
Bolt belays above the west wall and stake belays on the pinnacle.
Feels slightly esoteric as absolutely no-one goes there, quality of the rock is sturdy in all but very few places (check for dodgey flakes occasionally) and offers plenty of footholds and excellent friction. Graffitied walls also offer that 'inner-city' crag feel.
Enough climbing here for a good half day of trad and also features Corbie's Craig and Agassiz Rock nearby.
No access issues so far. From the top of Blackford Hill where the Royal Observatory Car park is, head down the hill and you could walk straight over the quarry. However, it might be best to find a better descent by walking around either side of the quarry. The best approach is via Agassiz Rock.
Can also park at the end of Blackford Glen Road which is closer but there is more risk of having your car broken into.
|1||Quarry Pinnacle||D *||108|
|5||Route 3||HS 4b||118|
|6||Route 4||HVS 4c||51|
|7||Lukes Gash||VS 4c||19|
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