Blackford Quarry

Climbs 13 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 77m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
The main wall is a west facing slab with a few lines, the quarry entrance also features an interesting pinnacle with two climbs on.

Bolt belays above the west wall and stake belays on the pinnacle.

Feels slightly esoteric as absolutely no-one goes there, quality of the rock is sturdy in all but very few places (check for dodgey flakes occasionally) and offers plenty of footholds and excellent friction. Graffitied walls also offer that 'inner-city' crag feel.

Enough climbing here for a good half day of trad and also features Corbie's Craig and Agassiz Rock nearby.

Access notes
No access issues so far. From the top of Blackford Hill where the Royal Observatory Car park is, head down the hill and you could walk straight over the quarry. However, it might be best to find a better descent by walking around either side of the quarry. The best approach is via Agassiz Rock.

Can also park at the end of Blackford Glen Road which is closer but there is more risk of having your car broken into.

Guidebooks
Lowland Outcrops (2005),
Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Quarry PinnacleD *
2Komik KutsD
3Route 1D
4Route 2VD
5Route 3HS 4b
6Route 4HVS 4c
7Lukes GashVS 4c
8G four point fiveHS 4b *
9Pete's CrackVD
10Gingeness (route 5) *HVS 4b *
11Bush Whaker! (traverse) *V0+ 5b
12Topo *M
13Route 1.5 *VS 4b *
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer torsparkles

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These details were last updated on 19/Mar/2012
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Edinburgh, WEST LOTHIAN
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"The UK (and world's?) largest climbing wall. Set in a covered quarry, the walls are current state of the art, with five monster surfaces(up to 28 metres high)..."
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