Punta Pilocca, Iglesias South West Sardinia, ITALY
Climbs 59 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 568m a.s.l – Faces S
This is an extraordinary crag with quality routes of grade 3 and 7c+ sitting side-by-side on its immaculate grey limestone walls. The variety is amazing from the perfect grey slabs on the left to the steep tufa-covered walls in the centre and the gentle slabby-bowl on the right. There is something for everyone and virtually every pitch gives high quality climbing. It is one of the older crags in the area but, like many Sardinian crags, it is not remotely over-used and polish isnít a problem. The land around the crag has been extensively mined for many years judging by the derelict old buildings passed on the approach. The mining continues mercilessly however the crag itself is hidden from desolation and sits in a splendid location over-looking a fine valley.
Follow the road from Inglesia to Fluminimaggiore until reaching San Benedetto. Follow track on the left, where hairpin bends lead to Genna Crexia Pass before going downhill, where you bear left at the fork until the houses in Baueddu. Continue straight on (NE), with the wall of Manhattan on the left until below the crag (big cave on left). Park on road and 10 mins uphill via steep path leads to the crag.
Pietra di Luna (5th Edition) (2011), Pietra di Luna (4th Edition) (2002)
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