Torbryan Quarry

Climbs 40 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 400m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features

Inland, offering remarkable flowstone formations despite having been quarried. Overhanging: a good wet weather venue. Gets the afternoon sun. Suffers from seepage in winter. Some routes on the RHS of the quarry need gear - either bring it or don't do them! Need up to 10 quickdraws.

Approach notes

From Newton Abbot, take the A381 S towards Totnes. After 3miles turn R to Ipplepen, follow signs for Torbryan. After 1mile the signs to Torbryan branch R; keep L until another road joins from the R at a tight corner. Park before the turning circle on the right. If busy use the car park up the road, Do NOT park in the turning circle

The quarry is 50m up a short track through a locked gate by the road.

Access notes

The quarry is a SSSI - do not top out or disturb the rare orchids growing on the clifftop. Do not walk around to the top to place topropes and take all your litter (and any extra you find) home. Often glass on the floor of the crag, due to non climbers throwing bottles from the top or at the rock face when camping. 

Guidebooks
West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Peggy Potato6b *238
2Pebbles6c *142
3The Wages of Fear6c+ *96
4Viscious Delicious7b *55
5Little White Lie7b **102
6Little White Lie Direct7b *19
7Mayday6c ***337
8Threadbare (starting from left)7b+ ***46
9Threadbare7c+ **66
10Thread Flintstone7b ***271
11Bam Bam7a+ *17
12Barney Rubble7a+ ***282
13Boogie on Down6c **236
14Look Back in AngerE4 6b 3
15Crosstown Traffic6c+ **17
16FamineE2 5c *6
17Bedrock6b+ **152
18Blight DelightE2 5c *13
19Death Of King EdwardHVS 5a 5
20SpudE4 6a 2
21WilmaE3 6a 4
22Yabba Dabba Doo!E5 1
23Ralph Sokrotom's Septic ToenailHVS 5a 1
 LINK-UPS  
25Delicious White Lie7b *2
26Vicious White Lie7c **6
27Bob8a+ ***2
28Left Bare Stone7b **4
29Make Hay7a **9
30Bob/Threadbare link-up8a **6
31Pan-Pan7b **1
32Red Thunder8a **13
33Protean Protein6c *23
34Boogie on Threads7a ***3
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Loose hanger and nut? Today (3/6/15) found on Boogie on Down, 2nd bolt.
Ben Russell - 04/Jun/15
beware broken glass at base of routes and on lower holds
wiwwim - 20/Apr/13