Lynmouth

Climbs 150 – Rocktype UNKNOWN – Altitude Tidal – Faces N

Crag features

A lurvely boulder beach that stretches on for eternity.. A mini guide has been produced.

Wave washed ancient metamorphised sandstone (I think?). Consists of freestanding blocks, caves and walls. Amazing low friction slopers a plenty. Pads needed for the large pebble landings. All styles and grades catered for. Beach levels can very dramatically and change the nature of problems. Any W through to NE breeze will help to make conditions better. The trick is to time your visit with the tides, head at around low tide and work your way back west. Explore and enjoy.


There is plenty more to discover around the Exmoor coast for those that enjoy bouldering..

[Grid ref approximate; better welcomed - UKC Ed]


Grid Ref and access details updated !! Feb 08 (Granticus)

Access notes

Tidal - beware: you may get cut off and put yourself/ others in danger. The beach is public and the tide will wash your chalk off. Parking at Lynmouth Harbour (Pay & Display or have a limited time from March to Oct). Walk across footbridge over river and continue eastwards. Nearest boulders are 5 mins East along beach from main parking areas. Situated beyond the area known as Blacklands or Black Rocks, marked as Point Perilous on the Map. On Neap tides initial areas are available at all stages of tide. Continue walking eastwards to discover more and more bouldering... But BEWARE OF THE TIDES. It is possible to escape up the 'zig zag' path at Sillery Sands but this is a VERY LONG walk and a VERY HARD slog up a VERY BIG hill.

Guidebooks
rustypeg.co.uk

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
31Slopey traverse extensionf7B ***10
32Cake Vs Pief7B+ 3
33Pretty in Pinkf6A+ **13
34Pretty Long and Pinkf6C **6
35Stinky Pinkyf7B *2
36Eliminatef6B 12
37Right Aretef4+ 9
38Whompingf7C+ ***3
39Goofy foot traversef6B **5
40Dynof6C 1
41Elegant Mantlef6B+ 1
42What was all the fuss about?f6A *3
43Bardenf7C ** 
44Barden Directf7C+ *** 
45F.E.A.R on the leftf6C **2
46F.E.A.RE1 ***4
47Anarchy AreteE3 ***4
48Sid Viciousf4+ ***4
49Groovy baby f6A **2
50Wimpingf7C+ ***1
51Mike's Slab *f6B  
52Tuton Come On *f6A+ ***3
53Giza Left Direct *f6B ***3
54Giza Left right finish *f6A+ **1
55Ankh *f6A *2
56Ankh right finish *f6C **2
57Fuss In Boots *f6C  
58Rhododendron Stick Vomit *V3 1
59Talon left *f6B+ **1
60Talon right *f6C **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer granticus

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
WARNING! The 'zig zag' path above Sillery sands is currently inaccessible, the steps that led to the beach were knocked out by winter storms 2013/14 and have not been replaced.
granticus - 10/Dec/14
Short video of some of the problems here: https://vimeo.com/69571234
EdGS - 04/Jul/13
Beach levels are currently perfect in most spots. Joker and the Thief etc.. all 'proper' ticks at the moment.
granticus - 17/Jun/13
Joker and the Thief block is currently burried! Such is the way of Lynmouth some different blocks have been revealed after this change in beach levels. Lots of new stuff has been done over the winter. Guide update in process.
granticus - 10/Feb/13
Really good to see some youngsters getting on these problems. Good effort Luke and Hamish! Alot of them have only had a couple of ascents, 'Time and Tide' is waiting for a 3rd ascent, 'White Men Can't Jump' is unrepeated. Over at west 'Anarchy arete' the number of ascentionists can be counted on 1 hand. Get to it lads!
granticus - 04/Aug/11
A free pdf guide to Lynmouth bouldering is now available from www.javu.co.uk and/or www.rustypeg.co.uk. ;o)
granticus - 21/Mar/11