View larger mapGrid Ref SS 726496 (OS Landranger #180)

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These details were last updated on 28/May/2014

Lynmouth

Devon, ENGLAND

Climbs 150 – Rocktype UNKNOWN – Altitude ? – Faces N

Crag features
A lurvely boulder beach that stretches on for eternity.. A mini guide has been produced.

Wave washed ancient metamorphised sandstone (I think?). Consists of freestanding blocks, caves and walls. Amazing low friction slopers a plenty. Pads needed for the large pebble landings. All styles and grades catered for. Beach levels can very dramatically and change the nature of problems. Any W through to NE breeze will help to make conditions better. The trick is to time your visit with the tides, head at around low tide and work your way back west. Explore and enjoy.

There is plenty more to discover around the Exmoor coast for those that enjoy bouldering..

[Grid ref approximate; better welcomed - UKC Ed]

Grid Ref and access details updated !! Feb 08 (Granticus)

Access notes
Tidal - beware: you may get cut off and put yourself/ others in danger. The beach is public and the tide will wash your chalk off. Parking at Lynmouth Harbour (Pay & Display or have a limited time from March to Oct). Walk across footbridge over river and continue eastwards. Nearest boulders are 5 mins East along beach from main parking areas. Situated beyond the area known as Blacklands or Black Rocks, marked as Point Perilous on the Map. On Neap tides initial areas are available at all stages of tide. Continue walking eastwards to discover more and more bouldering... But BEWARE OF THE TIDES. It is possible to escape up the 'zig zag' path at Sillery Sands but this is a VERY LONG walk and a VERY HARD slog up a VERY BIG hill.

Weather forecast

 Today  Wed  Thu  Fri  Sat 

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
18 °C
14 kph

2.3mm rain
Mainly cloudy
14 °C
15 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
14 °C
9 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
16 °C
24 kph

7.9mm rain
Sunny periods
9 °C
26 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
www.rustypeg.co.uk

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 --  
27th Wave Traversef7A+ ***2
3The Odysseyf7B+ ***2
4Chimpanzee Achnef7A ***3
5No More Nailsf7B ***3
6Time and Tidef7B ***2
7Twister sdsf7B+ ***5
8White Men Can't Jumpf7B *** 
9Dr's Wallf6B **2
10Batman's Wallf6B **2
11Thin Out The Numbersf7A+ *** 
12The Lynmouth boulder jam ho down throw downf7B ***4
13Monster tidef7B ***7
14Mike's Extensionf7C ***1
15Sloper Slapf6A+ *2
16The Big Slab (Direct)HVS 5a *8
17Nosey Parkerf7B+ **2
18Left Side - Diamond Slabf4+ 2
19Diamond wall directf4+ *1
20Right sidef4+ 1
21Face onf5+ 1
22Face Offf7A+ ***10
23Twister Sit Startf7C ***5
24Cyclonef7A 4
25Corolious Effectf7B **3
26Finger Furyf7B 4
27The Joker and the Thieff6C+ 9
28Easy Crackf3 1
29Behind Enemy Linesf7C+ *** 
 Climb nameGradex
30Slopey Traverse Originalf6A+ 4
31Slopey traverse extensionf7B ***7
32Cake Vs Pief7B+ 3
33Pretty in Pinkf6A+ **12
34Pretty Long and Pinkf6C **6
35Stinky Pinkyf7B *2
36Eliminatef6B 9
37Right Aretef4+ 7
38Whompingf7C+ ***3
39Goofy foot traversef6B **5
40Dynof6C 1
41Elegant Mantlef6B+ 1
42What was all the fuss about?f6A *3
43Bardenf7C ** 
44Barden Directf7C+ *** 
45F.E.A.R on the leftf6C **1
46F.E.A.RE1 ***3
47Anarchy AreteE3 ***2
48Sid Viciousf4+ ***3
49Groovy baby f6A **1
50Wimpingf7C+ ***1
51Mike's Slab *f6B  
52Tuton Come On *f6A+ ***1
53Giza Left Direct *f6B ***1
54Giza Left right finish *f6A+ **1
55Ankh *f6A *1
56Ankh right finish *f6C **1
57Fuss In Boots *f6C  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Short video of some of the problems here: https://vimeo.com/69571234
EdGS - 04/Jul/13

Beach levels are currently perfect in most spots. Joker and the Thief etc.. all 'proper' ticks at the moment.
granticus - 17/Jun/13

Joker and the Thief block is currently burried! Such is the way of Lynmouth some different blocks have been revealed after this change in beach levels. Lots of new stuff has been done over the winter. Guide update in process.
granticus - 10/Feb/13

Really good to see some youngsters getting on these problems. Good effort Luke and Hamish! Alot of them have only had a couple of ascents, 'Time and Tide' is waiting for a 3rd ascent, 'White Men Can't Jump' is unrepeated. Over at west 'Anarchy arete' the number of ascentionists can be counted on 1 hand. Get to it lads!
granticus - 04/Aug/11

A free pdf guide to Lynmouth bouldering is now available from www.javu.co.uk and/or www.rustypeg.co.uk. ;o)
granticus - 21/Mar/11