Gaitkins

Climbs 68 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 640m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A delightfully situated series of buttresses, generally up to about 16m in height. There are a few longer routes and many shorter, mostly on excellent rock. Broadly divided into Upper Gaitkins (further left on the hillside when viewed from below), Middle Gaitkins (100m down and right), and Lower Gaitkins (further right and lower!), a little exploration is required to discover all the component buttresses.

Upper Gaitkins includes the routes from 'Brass Plaque Vandals' to Four Play.

Middle Gaitkins includes the routes from 'Pedestel Route' to 'Right Arete'

Lower Gaitkins includes the routes from 'Dog's Breakfast' to 'Solo Slab'

Access notes
Approximately 50 minutes pleasant walk from the Three Shires Stone at the summit of Wrynose Pass. Head towards Red Tarn but before reaching it, cut left across the marshy valley and climb the flank of Cold Pike - contour around to reach the various buttresses which are somewhat spread out.

Guidebooks
Dow, Duddon & Slate (1993)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Brass Plaque VandalsVS 4b
2Plaque AttackVS 4c1
3Plaque Attack Direct StartVS 4c
4Trench Town RockMS
5Reluctant SnowmenS
6Plaque WallMVS
7Plaque AreteMVS
8CornerD
9Blowing in the WindHVS 5b
10Plaque GrooveVS 5a
11Once BittenS
12The Mountain RingletE2 5c *
13Seriously SmoothE3 6a *
14Smoothly SevereS
15The ScoopS
16Nick's RouteVD
17Runny NoseD
18RatbagHS
19John ShuttleworthE3 5c
20Jilted JohnE1 5b
21Thar She BlowsVS 4c *
22Pigs in ShitE3 5c *
23Iced DiamondE2 5c *
24Home AloneMS
25Pearl HarbourVS 4c
26ArizonaS
27VirginiaMVS 4b
28Cool Hand LukeHVS 4c
29TennesseeMS
30Twice StungS
31Deep FreezeHVS 5b
32Heather's LedgeVS 4c
33Four PlayM
34Pedestal RouteHS
35One CrackHVS 5b
36Right Hand Crack (aka Thrice Claimed Crack)E2 5c **
37Wall RouteE3 6b *
38Right GrooveVS 4c
39Right AreteHS
40Dog's BreakfastMS
41Iron in the MonkeyE2 5b *
42Monkey in your SoulE2 5b **
43Give the Dog a BoneHVS 5a
44Yeats-Brown CrackHVS 5a *
45Dog's DinnerE2 5b *
46The Bengal LancerHVS 5a
47Scalded CatHS
48On the EdgeVD
49Bilberry ToppingE1 5b *
50Bilberry JamE1 5c *
51Lambing RingMVS 4a
52Tuppin' HarnessHVS 5a
53Chewing the CudVS 4c
54Clean Stepped Arete.S *
55PlaythingE2 5c
56Winter SunHS *
57Easy EdgeVD
58Faulty TowerHVS 5a
59Whores are LaidVS 4c
60Tup's PurseE1 5b *
61Furrowed BrowE1 5b *
62Take ThreeE3 6a
63Lost GenerationE2 5c
64NickedE2 5c
65Hand JobVS 4c *
66Call Girl CornerS
67Right WallVS 5a
68Solo SlabVD *
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