Climbs 101
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 292m a.s.l
Faces N

James Garden, Swingers Party © chris fox

Crag features

A variety of pleasant, short mid-grade climbs on good compact grit. A fair amount of bouldering is also available. Where necessary, stakes provide belays at the top but these can be difficult to locate under summer growth.

Approach notes

Park on Holestone Gate Road at the bend by the phone masts taking care not to block the gate entrance. Go through the gates and leftwards along the path next to the field boundary.

Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
Tree fallen on Wee Wall obscuring some of the problems. The best one (Secret Lemonade Drinker) is still climbable though.
tallsop - 17/Dec/11
There is a topo for the boulders here. http://homepage.ntlworld.com/k.aberg/guide/BQB.pdf
Bolehillbilly - 05/Mar/10
An unusual and little frequented venue which i had been meaning to re-visit for some time. Fortunately some good people have recently gardened the better routes and these have belay stakes, some perseverence is required in finding them though. Generally the routes we climbed felt easy for the grade, although protection is sparse. Fantastic views but difficult getting around due to gorse, heather, nettles etc and hidden boulders. I reccomend a visit.
Pilch - 27/Jun/09
nice place. was using an old (1960s) chatsworth guide which made things interesting. Thge boulder's were great, though friable in places, and there's actually a few quite nice line in the quarry too.
DannyC - 07/May/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Lichen Slab 
2Polytrichumf4 1
3Climaciumf3+ 1
 Tiger Walls 
5Vegetarian CannibalV4 2
6Top DogV6 * 
7The GapV1 1
8Growl Tigerf5+ 9
9Dogma
-
V9 *** 
10C'mon Tigerf6A+ 27
11Easy Tigerf5 8
12Overhang ArÍte
-
HS 4b 4
13Tweedledum
-
HS 4b 5
14Ma Wall
-
V1  
15Walking the Dogf5 1
16Valentina
-
V0+ 1
17Tweedledee
-
HS 4b 1
18Woof
-
V2  
19Morris Dancing
-
V5 *10
20Party Pooper
-
V7 1
21Swingers PartyV8 ***10
22Wet Nettle
-
V8 *1
 Dodgy Block Buttress 
24Il Pleutf7A+ *2
25Hot Todyf6A 1
26Mug of Beans
-
f6B 1
27Heads Upf6B 1
28Hot Footf6B 1
29Wet Toesf6C 2
30Andy's Traverse
-
f7A  
 Wee Wall 
32Secret Lemonade Drinkerf6A *4
33Secret Lemonade Drinker (Variant)f6B+ *2
34Wee Wallf5+ 2
35Tree Wall
-
f6B  
36Piss Poorf4 4
 Eat Less Bread 
38Spiderman 2
-
V0- 3
39Spiderman 1
-
V0+ 2
40Crumblehorn
-
f6C+ 1
41Eat Less Bread
-
V4 1
42Three and Four Pence
-
V5 *9
43Two n Six
-
f6B *2
44Probably
-
f5 *6
45South Western Front
-
f6A+  
46Birdsongf7C 2
47Pinch Punchf7B+ **1
48Western Front
-
V5 2
 Low Boulder 
50Trench Footf6B+ 6
51Gone for a Burtonf4+ 1
52Full Montyf5 1
 Traverse Boulder 
54Little Traversef4  
 1915 Boulder 
56Crimp Master Nasty
-
V8  
57Behind the Linesf6A *4
58The Big Push
-
V4 *10
59Uphill ArÍte Left-Hand
-
V0 4
60Uphill ArÍte Right-Hand
-
V1 11
61Slabby Wall
-
V2 9
 Circuitry 
63Tump It
-
VD 3c 6
64Circuitry
-
HVS 5a 4
 Cauli Wobbles 
66Manchego
-
VS 4c 2
67Cauli Wobbles
-
E1 5c 2
 Eliminates 
69Heather Slab
-
HVD 4a 8
70Left Eliminate
-
HVD 4a 5
71Servitude
-
HVS 5a *6
72Underhandedf6B 2
73Crossover
-
HS 4a *5
74Right Eliminate
-
HS 4b 5
75Bloody NoraE5 6a **1
 Fina 
77Fina
-
HVS 5b *4
78Toby Jug
-
HVS 5b 8
79Cave ArÍte
-
HS 4a 3
 Medusa 
81Layback ArÍte
-
VD 5
82Medusa
-
VS 4b *6
83Exit Crack
-
VS 4b 5
84The Valley
-
HVS 5a  
85Meridian
-
VS 4b  
 Quarry 
87Lunching with the Pixies
-
E3 5c  
88Tarpian
-
E1 5a *6
89Recessed Corner
-
HVS 5b 1
90Trapeze
-
HVS 4c *5
91Sirius
-
E2 5c *1
92Castor
-
E1 5b *2
93Pollux
-
E2 5c  
94Misconception
-
VD  
95Tortulous
-
VD  
96Scooper Corner
-
VS 4b  
97Overhang Groove
-
HVS 5b 1
98Remus
-
VS 4c 1
99Remus Direct
-
E1 5a 1
100Romulus
-
HVS 5a 4
101Indiscriminate Romeing
-
E1 5c 2
102Discriminate
-
HVD *8
103Eliminate
-
HVS 4c 1
104Flea Groove
-
VS 4c 2
105Broken Crack
-
E1 5a 1
106The Steps
-
VD  
107Ladder
-
HVD  
108Worker
-
HS  
109Mr Sanity's Day Off
-
E2 5b * 
110Drone
-
S 3c 6
111Chamfer
-
S 4a 2
112The Window
-
S 4a 2
113Aonian
-
D 3
114Helix
-
S 4a  
115Summer Break
-
f6A+  

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