Eagle Crag (Buttermere)

Climbs 37 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude 600m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
Long mountain routes up to 150m. Good dry spell required to climb here. Easter Buttress(VS), Fifth Avenue(VS), Carnival(E1), Deimos(E3), Shape of Things to Come(E3), A Wing and a Prayer(E3), Eagle Front(VS).

Access notes
One and a half hours from Gatesgarth Farm. Farmer charges £4 to park off road. Other parking available nearby.

Guidebooks
Buttermere and St Bees (2008),
Out of print: Buttermere & Eastern Crags (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 BORDER BUTTRESS 
2TailgateVD
3Birkness GroovesVS
4Border ButtressHVS 5a
5Birkness GullyS
6Birkness GullyIV 4 ***
 FAR EAST BUTTRESS 
8Far East ButtressVS 4c
9HarlequinHVS 5a *
10The ClownHVS 5a *
11Birkness ChimneyHS 4a *
 EASTER BUTTRESS 
13PierrotHVS 5a *
14Easter ButtressVS 4c **
15The Plague DogsE3 5c
16The Hanging Chimneys DirectHVS 5a
17Central ChimneyVS 4c *
 WESTERN BUTTRESS 
19Fifth AvenueVS 4c *
20CarnivalE1 5b ***
21DeimosE3 5c ***
22Shape of Things to ComeE3 5c ***
23A Wing and a PrayerE3 5c **
24Eagle FrontVS 4c ***
25Mardi GrasE1 5b **
26Birkness FrontHS *
27Birkness EliminateE3 5b *
 WESTERN FLANK 
29Piggott's RouteHS
30WarlockHVS 5a
31Half Nelson ClimbS
32Double Cross RouteVS 4c *
33Visions Of JulieHVS 5a
34The GurnerVS 4a
35FiestaHVS 5a
36Candle In The WindE3 5c
37Eagle GirdleHVS 5a *
38Girdle Of The Lower TierHVS
 RIGHT-HAND BUTTRESS 
40The Barn DoorM
41The Barn Door DirectS
42The MoleD
43West GullyI
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This is a big north facing and quite vegitated crag containing one of the great classic routes of the district: Eagle Front. In dry conditions this is a fine VS (hard) route finishing on top of the ridge; so you need to get the second to carry a sack. In wet weather it is a nightmare not to be seriously contemplated unless you have got the first three pitches behind you and only the fine final crack to get up.
Tony Martyr - 04/May/06
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These details were last updated on 28/Jul/2014

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