Climbs 37
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 600m a.s.l
Faces NE

Pitch 7 of Eagle Front © Peter Metcalfe

Crag features

Long mountain routes up to 150m. Good dry spell required to climb here. Easter Buttress(VS), Fifth Avenue(VS), Carnival(E1), Deimos(E3), Shape of Things to Come(E3), A Wing and a Prayer(E3), Eagle Front(VS).

Approach notes

One and a half hours from Gatesgarth Farm. Farmer charges £4 to park off road. Other parking available nearby.

This is a big north facing and quite vegitated crag containing one of the great classic routes of the district: Eagle Front. In dry conditions this is a fine VS (hard) route finishing on top of the ridge; so you need to get the second to carry a sack. In wet weather it is a nightmare not to be seriously contemplated unless you have got the first three pitches behind you and only the fine final crack to get up.
Tony Martyr - 04/May/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Border Buttress 
2Tailgate
-
VD 3
3Birkness Grooves
-
VS  
4Border Buttress
-
HVS 5a 1
5Birkness Gully
-
S 1
6Birkness GullyIV 4 ***1
 Far East Buttress 
8Far East Buttress
-
VS 4c 1
9Harlequin
-
HVS 5a * 
10The Clown
-
HVS 5a *1
11Birkness Chimney
-
HS 4a *1
 Easter Buttress 
13Pierrot
-
HVS 5a * 
14Easter Buttress
-
VS 4c **4
15The Plague Dogs
-
E3 5c 1
16The Hanging Chimneys Direct
-
HVS 5a  
17Central Chimney
-
VS 4c *1
 Western Buttress 
19Fifth Avenue
-
VS 4c *4
20Carnival
-
E1 5b ***21
21Deimos
-
E3 5c ***6
22Shape of Things to Come
-
E3 5c ***3
23A Wing and a Prayer
-
E3 5c **1
24Eagle Front
-
VS 4c ***141
25Mardi Gras
-
E1 5b **1
26Birkness Front
-
HS *1
27Birkness Eliminate
-
E3 5b *1
 Western Flank 
29Piggott's Route
-
HS 1
30Warlock
-
HVS 5a  
31Half Nelson Climb
-
S 3
32Double Cross Route
-
VS 4c * 
33Visions Of Julie
-
HVS 5a  
34The Gurner
-
VS 4a 2
35Fiesta
-
HVS 5a  
36Candle In The Wind
-
E3 5c  
37Eagle Girdle
-
HVS 5a * 
38Girdle Of The Lower Tier
-
HVS  
 Right-Hand Buttress 
40The Barn Door
-
M 1
41The Barn Door Direct
-
S  
42The Mole
-
D  
43West GullyI 2

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