Eagle Crag (Buttermere)

Climbs 37 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude 600m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
Long mountain routes up to 150m. Good dry spell required to climb here. Easter Buttress(VS), Fifth Avenue(VS), Carnival(E1), Deimos(E3), Shape of Things to Come(E3), A Wing and a Prayer(E3), Eagle Front(VS).

Approach notes
One and a half hours from Gatesgarth Farm. Farmer charges £4 to park off road. Other parking available nearby.

Buttermere and St Bees (2008),
Out of print: Buttermere & Eastern Crags (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2TailgateVD 3
3Birkness GroovesVS  
4Border ButtressHVS 5a 1
5Birkness GullyS 1
6Birkness GullyIV 4 *** 
8Far East ButtressVS 4c 1
9HarlequinHVS 5a * 
10The ClownHVS 5a *1
11Birkness ChimneyHS 4a *1
13PierrotHVS 5a * 
14Easter ButtressVS 4c **4
15The Plague DogsE3 5c 1
16The Hanging Chimneys DirectHVS 5a  
17Central ChimneyVS 4c *1
19Fifth AvenueVS 4c *4
20CarnivalE1 5b ***20
21DeimosE3 5c ***5
22Shape of Things to ComeE3 5c ***3
23A Wing and a PrayerE3 5c **1
24Eagle FrontVS 4c ***135
25Mardi GrasE1 5b **1
26Birkness FrontHS *1
27Birkness EliminateE3 5b *1
29Piggott's RouteHS 1
30WarlockHVS 5a  
31Half Nelson ClimbS 3
32Double Cross RouteVS 4c * 
33Visions Of JulieHVS 5a  
34The GurnerVS 4a 2
35FiestaHVS 5a  
36Candle In The WindE3 5c  
37Eagle GirdleHVS 5a * 
38Girdle Of The Lower TierHVS  
40The Barn DoorM 1
41The Barn Door DirectS  
42The MoleD  
43West GullyI 2
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
This is a big north facing and quite vegitated crag containing one of the great classic routes of the district: Eagle Front. In dry conditions this is a fine VS (hard) route finishing on top of the ridge; so you need to get the second to carry a sack. In wet weather it is a nightmare not to be seriously contemplated unless you have got the first three pitches behind you and only the fine final crack to get up.
Tony Martyr - 04/May/06