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#### Crag features

#### Approach notes

### Guidebooks

## Climbs at this crag

**Climbs** 94**Rocktype** Greywacke**Faces** W

Fiend at Cae Du. © Fiend

Cae Du is an excellent sundrenched sea cliff bouldering venue tucked away in south Meirionnydd about 90 minutes drive from Llanberis. It is located below the farm and camping site of Cae Du on the A493. It's a very quiet area that is only occasionally used by local outdoor groups.

This is a great place to hone your technique and develop power as slopey rock and directional holds abound. If you are just starting out or looking for a chilled day, don't let this put you off since the area excels in the friendly range of V0- to V3. Also, the beach setting creates a relaxed and fun atmosphere.

The crags are tidal and the rock is washed clean daily however, the pebbles under the problems are sifted and rearranged by the tides to create new challenges or occasionally make some problems easier. The grades given therefore are only approximate.

For a topo see here: http://www.midwalesclimbing.com

See North Wales Bouldering page 254

Accessible 5 hours either side of low tide.

Pay 1£ at the farm to park, shut the gate behind you and leave your car beyond the bridge. The North end of the crag (Area 1) can be reached by walking down the beach or walk on top of the crag for about 400m to an old quarry path and follow it down to area 4.

Parking is now £2 ceturnock - 18/Apr/15 | |

there are several places called cae du but once you add the word "tywyn " or "bouldering " to your search in Google it brings you to the correct place tat - 27/Sep/12 | |

Are you sure the location for this crag is correct? because when you google "Cae Du", it finds a place in north wales nowhere near where this is marked? Danyc0 - 27/Sep/12 |

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Climb name | Grade | |||
---|---|---|---|---|

1 | Area 1 Problem 1 | V0 * | 26 | |

2 | Area 1 Problem 2 | V0 * | 20 | |

3 | Area 1 Problem 3 | V0- * | 29 | |

4 | Area 1 Problem 4 | V0- * | 33 | |

5 | Area 1 Problem 5 | V1 * | 15 | |

6 | Area 1 Problem 6 | V0 * | 30 | |

7 | Area 1 Problem 7 | V0- * | 45 | |

8 | Area 1 Problem 8 | V5 * | 5 | |

9 | Area 1 Problem 9 | V2 ** | 7 | |

10 | Area 1 Problem 10 | V1 * | 5 | |

11 | Area 1 Problem 11 | V1 ** | 5 | |

12 | Area 1 Problem 12 | V1 * | 6 | |

13 | Area 1 Problem 13 | V0 * | 7 | |

14 | Area 1 Problem 14 | V1 ** | 11 | |

15 | Area 1 Problem 15 | V0 ** | 12 | |

16 | Area 1 Problem 16 | V4 ** | 12 | |

17 | New Traverse Near Back to Black | V4 | 2 | |

18 | Back to Black | V6 | 2 | |

19 | Area 1 Problem 17 | V0- * | 14 | |

20 | Area 1 Problem 18 | V0 * | 15 | |

21 | Area 1 Problem 19 | V0- * | 22 | |

22 | Area 1 Problem 20 | V1 * | 16 | |

23 | Area 2 Problem 1 | V2 ** | 14 | |

24 | Area 2 Problem 2 | V0 * | 20 | |

25 | Area 2 Problem 3 | V3 ** | 4 | |

26 | Area 2 Problem 4 | V0- * | 18 | |

27 | Area 2 Problem 5 | V1 * | 18 | |

28 | Area 2 Problem 6 | V2 ** | 16 | |

29 | Area 2 Problem 7 | V2 * | 7 | |

30 | Area 2 Problem 8 | V3 ** | 5 | |

31 | Area 2 Problem 9 | V1 ** | 8 | |

32 | Area 2 Problem 10 | V1 *** | 16 |

Climb name | Grade | |||
---|---|---|---|---|

33 | Area 2 Problem 11 | V1 ** | 10 | |

34 | Area 2 Problem 12 | V6 ** | 4 | |

35 | Area 2 Problem 13 | V3 ** | 4 | |

36 | Arete Finish of Problem 13 | V6 | 1 | |

37 | Area 2 Problem 14 | V6 ** | 1 | |

38 | Area 2 Problem 16 | V2 | 1 | |

39 | Area 2 Problem 17 | V1 *** | 2 | |

40 | Area 2 Problem 19 | V1 ** | 3 | |

41 | The Boss | V4 | 3 | |

42 | Area 2 Problem 20 | V0+ * | 5 | |

43 | Area 2 Problem 21 | V0- * | 21 | |

44 | Area 2 Problem 22 | V1 * | 20 | |

45 | Area 2 Problem 22 Sit Down Start | V2 | 3 | |

46 | Area 2 Problem 23 | V2 * | 8 | |

47 | Soapstone Boulder Low Blunt Prow | V4 | 3 | |

48 | Area 2 Problem 24 | V3 * | 4 | |

49 | Soapstone Boulder Direct Mantle | V4 | 2 | |

50 | Area 3 Problem 1 | V2 ** | 6 | |

51 | Area 3 Problem 1 Sit Down Start | V3 | 2 | |

52 | Area 3 Problem 2 | V1 * | 14 | |

53 | Charlotte | V7 | 3 | |

54 | Area 3 Problem 4 | V3 ** | 6 | |

55 | Area 3 Problem 5 | V3 *** | 11 | |

56 | Area 3 Problem 6 | V3 ** | 4 | |

57 | Area 3 Problem 6 Sit Down Start | V7 | 1 | |

58 | Area 3 Problem 7 | V1 ** | 10 | |

59 | Area 3 Problem 8 | V2 ** | 8 | |

60 | Area 3 Problem 9 | V0- ** | 15 | |

61 | Area 4 Problem 1 | V1 * | 8 | |

62 | Area 4 Problem 2 | V3 ** | 4 | |

63 | Nicks High Exit | f7A ** | ||

64 | Area 4 Problem 3 | V3 ** | 4 |

Climb name | Grade | |||
---|---|---|---|---|

65 | Area 4 Problem 4 | V6 * | 2 | |

66 | Area 4 Problem 5 | V1 *** | 10 | |

67 | Cae Du Crack | V3 ** | 13 | |

68 | Cae Du Crack Sit Down Start | V7 | 2 | |

69 | Area 4 Problem 7 | V3 * | 3 | |

70 | Area 4 Problem 8 | V3 * | 9 | |

71 | Cae Du Crab | f6A * | ||

72 | Area 4 Problem 9 | V3 * | 6 | |

73 | Area 4 Problem 10 | V2 * | 6 | |

74 | Area 4 Problem 11 | V2 ** | 7 | |

75 | Area 4 Problem 12 | V6 * | 4 | |

76 | Area 4 Problem 13 | V2 ** | 6 | |

77 | Area 4 Problem 14 | V1 | 9 | |

78 | Mid Wales Climbing: South End Problem 11a - Elephant's Arse | - | V0 | 1 |

79 | Mid Wales Climbing: South End Problem 11b | V3 | 3 | |

80 | Mid Wales Climbing: South End Problem 11c | V0 | 7 | |

81 | Mid Wales Climbing: South End Problem 11d | V2 | 3 | |

82 | soapstone traverse | V8+ *** | ||

83 | Corner Roof | HS 5a * | 6 | |

84 | Cae Du Arete | VS 5a | 5 | |

85 | Corner One | VS 5b | 8 | |

86 | Corner Two | S 4b | 11 | |

87 | Roof Climb | HS 5a | 4 | |

88 | Juggy Crack | D 3c | 10 | |

89 | Cae Du Crack | S 4b | 6 | |

90 | Cae Du Crack LH sit start | f7A+ | 1 | |

91 | Cae Du Crack Super Left Hand Sit Start | V1 *** | 4 | |

92 | Mid Wales Climbing: North End Problem 3 | V4 ** | 1 | |

93 | Mid Wales Climbing: North End Problem 1 | V3 * | 1 | |

94 | Mine over Matter | HVS 4c * | 1 |

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