Climbs 16
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 307m a.s.l
Faces W

Start of Hung Parliament - very polished rock. © misterjingo

Crag features

Long and picturesque quarry with numerous low grade climbs. Two toprope anchors are described in the guide however there whereabouts is known only to a few. The crag also features some short boulder problems that could interest some along with some light hearted scrambles, but these aren't featured in the guidebook.

The view from the quarry is fantastic and is due West.

West Midlands Rock, Malvern area, pdf available here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxG9KLJIfnhMOXR2MTBkZEw2ZlJUaUhIZVREOGhEVE0zanFR/view?usp=sharing

Approach notes

Travelling south on West Malvern Road, turn left onto Westminster Bank. The turnoff is a wide road just by the main school building and by Sugarloaf Cafe. If you're lucky you can park right there opposite the cafe. Otherwise park on West Malvern Road. Follow the road up - it meets a pathway. Turn right (and upwards), and after about 100m the quarry is unmissable on the right.

You can walk around to the top either way although on the left there were tracks made by mountainbikers, so it probably causes less erosion to go that way. At the top, there are many fairly small trees that can be used to anchor and there are a couple of stakes too. I'm not sure how much to trust the stakes - they moved a little - but back up to good solid trees.

Restricted Access

The land upon which all the outcrops lie, is owned and managed by the Malvern Hills Conservators. This organisation was created and empowered by an Act of Parliament and by local councils to preserve the hills for all to enjoy. As such, they have no objection to climbing, but they do request that a courtesy call be made to their offices (in person or by telephone) prior to climbing. Priors Croft, Great Malvern. 01684 892002.

There is also an information notice just at start of the path with a couple of mobile numbers for the wardens. If the office number isn't answered then call the mobile. I called the warden and he was very appreciative of the notice that someone was about to start climbing and was more than happy for us to go right ahead.

Guidebooks

Went here today 21/6/15 for a scout before i climb here, was pleasantly surprised. Tree anchor points are easily assessable and safe enough distance away from the edge. not as overgrown as i thought it would be. Well worth a visit if your local. Ive added some more photos as the ones here were a little old and ive also made a topo of a few of the climbs too. If anyones interested in climbing this im always in need of a partner (i only see my climbing partner on weekends) so im always free for evening climbing
Climbingyeti - 21/Jun/15
If you plan on leading here, bring RPs and offset nuts. It'll still be bold, but you'll feel better.
Alex McCalman - 15/Aug/14
Hello there I am going to be climbing here between the 20th and 26th July 2014, does anyone have a copy of a book which i could borrow or any idea as to where i could find a copy of the guide and topo for it. thank you
A.R.Whitewood - 03/Jun/14
Heading up here tomorrow to get some more routes in. Hope its ax good ss last year I was up here
Supadeano86 - 28/Jul/13
climbed recently brilliant day out for more of the novice climbers, good trees at top for anchors, most of the brambles gone now and even 1 tree trimmed from the right hand side of the rock.
theNocker - 09/Jul/13
Tried out this crag earlier today and was pleasantly surprised (just remember to turn right when the path splits and go past the house - we didn't!!). Good grippy rock but protection is severely lacking and leading here would be very bold!!. All it needs is someone to get rid of some of the brambles on the right hand side of the crag to make access to the climbs there easier.
CyberTaff - 20/Jul/12
We climbed here and we really enjoyed the two climbs we managed to get in before it started to rain. So we will be back at some pint.
magicmartin - 22/Sep/11
Nearly as good as Ivy Scar rocks
Mark Davis - 29/Jun/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Abbey 3D 21
2Parliament WallVS 4c 48
3Hung ParliamentHVS 5a 24
4JoVS 4a 11
5Jo - Groove Variation.HS 4a 13
6Big Ben Route 1
-
S 4a 19
7Big Ben Route 2
-
HVS 5a 17
8Abby traverse
-
VB 12
9Left Wing
-
VD 5
10Abbey 1
-
D 13
11Abbey 2
-
M 12
12Right Wing
-
HVS 5a 11
13Abbey 4
-
S 4a 13
14Last Minute IdeaVS 4b 3
15What's a Heaven For?E2 5c 3
16Three ClimbE1 5b 3

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