Climbs 10 – Rocktype Mica schist – Altitude 250m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Vertical and steep Mica schist climbing, on many sharp edges. Some nice fingery routes in a very sunny location.

See http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Dunira for topo and access info.

Approach notes
Guide available on Scottishclimb.com.

The 7aMax map misses off most of the roads and tracks, but the crag is fairly visible from parts of the approach. Follow the upper track past Dunira Farm, then the left edge outside a deer-fenced field to rejoin the track after it loops. Follow the track in the forest and keep very steeply left uphill until the track ends, then a faint trail over the stream and through boulders to the crag.

7aMax Scottish Sport - A Guide to Climbs from 2-7a+ (2015), Scottish Rock - South (2008),
Out of print: 7aMax Scottish Sport - A Selected Guide (2012)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1The Whitehoose6a+ *26
2Whitewash6b *10
3Twenty Shilling Woodworm6a *22
4George's Bush6a **40
5Glen Boltachan big guns6c ***18
6The Fort Dundurn Gurner6c+ ***5
7Dunira or Die7a **6
8Dun Moanin6b **11
9Tullybannocher Tea Room5a **33
10Strathearn Shangri-La4c **34
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We visited Dunira on Monday. Having read about parking problems we parked carefully at the houses The Mannie appeared immediately and commenced a rant, threatening within about 15seconds to have the police tow our car away. He told us that everywhere on the N side of the road was Dunira estate and that we would have to find parking on the other side of the main road. We did this, and within a couple of minuted he had driven off the estate to check where we had parked (well off the road, near but not obstructing a firebreak) . He then followed us and recommenced a rant about the firebreak (still accessible) being the main route he used to bring deer off the hill (having previously told us this wasn't Dunira estate). He said that parking anywhere on the verge was unsafe, and again threatened that at his bidding the police would tow the car away. Nonetheless, we continued on to the crag and had a fine day ( apart from the confrontation). Spoke to a couple of locals, who said that the hostile approach wasn't confined to climbers (or necessarily cars). His objective seemed to be to make it so hard to park that we would go elsewhere. At no point was there any positive discussion about where we COULD park. Go, but prepare for hassle!
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! - 10/Sep/15
We were refused permission by the gamekeeper to park anywhere within the estate boundary on sun. It seems foot access via the agreed route is still ok, but alternative parking needs to be found.
loz01 - 26/Aug/15
Just to say the grid ref in comment below is wrong, definitely don't park there! The houses are at about NN731237. The estate don't like cars. Due to the complaints this was discussed with the powers that be and the estate were supposed to give the MCofS a preferred place to park over a year ago but never did...so parking continues as in the books! I wonder if the issue is with the keeper(s) or the actual Estate?
sebrider - 17/Oct/14
The estate guy (keeper) was a bit sniffy about access today. They really don't want cars parking on the estate. The parking notes in both 7amax and smc guides aren't acceptable to the estate. As suggested by the SMC guide the alternative parking at houses at (NN 742 242) in your best bet. As well as parking at the earlier spot you'd well advised to follow the other SMC approach notes very closely.
JLS - 28/Sep/14
Finally climbed at Dunira today. It's a hunt and a half to find the crag. If you follow the directions given on wikiclimb you 'should' find it! A few of the bolts on at least 4-5 of the routes have been chopped :-( still some good climbing though and spectacular views!!!
Jnr_Burt - 03/May/11
Climbed at Dunira today and found that the bolts on several routes have been chopped (the F4+, F5 and F6A+). Also, the directions to the crag in Scottish Rock South are not correct any more: the sign to Greystones is not there, nor is the obvious parking spot. The owner of the farm told us to park way down the track, and seemed unhappy that several other climbers apparently told him they'd put a comment like this on UKclimbing but had not done so (not good for his opinion about climbers). There seems to be some logging going on higher up, so there are new tracks up the hill making the description of the walk-in out of date as well. To not get stuck in miles of man-high ferns follow the track up as described but where the ladder is supposed to be is a new track crossing the burn on the right. Take this one, turn left after the bridge and follow it all the way up until you can clearly see the crag right in front of you. The easiest way to it from here is a trek through two small burns and the ferns (~200 meters).
vollaard - 08/Aug/10