Buchan West Crag Dumfries and Galloway, SCOTLAND
Climbs 8 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude 327m a.s.l – Faces W
A small but good crag tucked away on the hillside to the North of Loch Trool, visible from the carpark but hidden on the walk in. Although short (gritstone-size), the face is sheer and compact, and the routes are substantial for their size. The rock is unusual - it is not typical Galloway granite but instead a flakey rhyolitic type. Blind cracks are common and small cams useful. It gets plenty of afternoon sun, but there are a couple of seepage lines so it's best visited after dry weather. The base of the crag is tranquil, the view is excellent, and the walk-in, though uphill, is considerably shorter than most Galloway Hills crags.
[Map reference welcome - UKC Ed]
Take the minor road towards Glen Trool running East from A714 Newton Stewart to Girvan road. Follow this minor road to Loch Trool and park at the end by Bruce's Stone. Take the obvious footpath North towards the Merrick. When the path deviates uphill from the river, cross the river where convenient. Navigate the hillside up and right through tediously tussocky terrain until the crag pops into view. 30 mins or so.
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Some routes have been upgraded and downstarred by Stephen Reid in the SMC New Climbs report - this is almost certainly because this is one of the few Galloway crags he didn't get to first ;).|
Fiend - 29/Feb/12