Cradle Rock Buttress

Climbs 19 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 27m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features

Some tidal and but mostly barely tidal climbs on steep limestone of variable quality.


The Main Cliff is barely tidal and catches the morning sun. Its impressive upper wall is home to a quality E4 The Pinch Direct. The LH section of crazily contorted beds suffered a major rockfall in 2011 which took out the upper part of Zeta. The routes here are not everyone's cup of tea but are currently sound enough to climb with enough good gear to make up for the odd loose hold.


The lower cliffs below the platform have a few short climbs but these can be greasy.


The Upper Cliff is home to a photogenic arête Cut-throat E1 5a.


Recommended Climbs (2014)

VS Solstice

HVS Finn - Exposed wall climbing with an interesting exit on springy vegetation.

E1 - Cut-throat -short but exciting and on sounder rock than the two cracks to its R

E2 Sidewinder - a straightforward rising traverse on good gear leads to a test of nerve gaining the crumbly looking arête. It is currently sound enough.

E4 The Pinch - With the addition of a superb new overhanging start this classic wall route has been given a new lease of life. The exit path through the thorns has been well gardened too.

E5/6 Wouf Route very steep but with good gear.


New route info can be found here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/index.shtml

Approach notes

Some approaches are tidal but climbing is possible at all states of the tide.
Park as for Berry Head Quarry.
Walk along the coastal footpath which starts about 50m S of the car park. Continue past a grungy-looking zawn until about 100m past a stone stile (and opposite a path into the caravan park). A path leads L beneath the soaring arete of Cut-throat to a wave-cut platform 10m above sea level.

Guidebooks
South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 UPPER CLIFF  
2SolsticeVS 4c 1
3Cut-throatE1 5a *2
4Tough LuckE1 5a 1
5Good FortuneHVS 5a *1
 MAIN CLIFF  
7Milk TeethE2 5b  
8Micro HunterVS 5a  
9AqualungE4 6a  
10The Bough BreaksE1 5a  
11The Mark of ZorroE2 5b 1
12SidewinderHVS 5b 1
13When the Wind BlowsE2 5b  
14ZetaHVS 5b  
15FinnHVS 5a 2
16Wouf WouteE6 6b *1
17The pinch directE4 6a **2
18The PinchE4 6a **5
19GangesHS 4a  
 CRADLE ROCK ZAWN  
21Bacon AreteE1 5b  
22Bacon CrackVS 4c  
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Kafoozalem

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
There are no comments from visitors to this crag.