Cradle Rock Buttress

Climbs 19 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 27m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Three esoteric cliffs. The Upper cliff faces SE and gives good short pitches up to E1. The North East facing Main Cliff is a more forboding and is home to the outstanding E4 The Pinch. A recent addition are two climbs on the semi-detached pinnacle at the mouth of Cradle Rock Zawn.

New route info can be found here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/index.shtml

Access notes
Some approaches are tidal but climbing is possible at all states of the tide.

Park as for Berry Head Quarry.

Walk along the coastal footpath which starts about 50m S of the car park. Continue past a grungy-looking zawn until about 100m past a stone stile (and opposite a path into the caravan park). A path leads L beneath the soaring arete of Cut-throat to a wave-cut platform 10m above sea level.

Guidebooks
South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 UPPER CLIFF  
2SolsticeVS 4c  
3Cut-throatE1 5a *2
4Tough LuckE1 5a 1
5Good FortuneHVS 5a *1
 MAIN CLIFF  
7Milk TeethE2 5b  
8Micro HunterM  
9AqualungE4 6a  
10The Mark of ZorroE2 5b  
11SidewinderHVS 5b 1
12The Bough BreaksE1 5a  
13When the Wind BlowsE2 5b  
14ZetaHVS 5b  
15FinnHVS 5a 2
16Wouf WouteE6 6b *1
17The PinchE4 6a **5
18The pinch directE4 6a **2
19GangesHS 4a  
 CRADLE ROCK ZAWN  
21Bacon AreteE1 5b  
22Bacon CrackVS 4c  
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Kafoozalem

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Dave Henderson reports "a rather large section has fallen off in the Sidewinder area - this will probably affect the routes Sidewinder, Zeta, The Mark of Zorro, When the Wind Blows and The Bough Breaks".
Kafoozalem - 11/Mar/11
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 20/Jun/2010
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