Some tidal and but mostly barely tidal climbs on steep limestone of variable quality.
The Main Cliff is barely tidal and catches the morning sun. Its impressive upper wall is home to a quality E4 The Pinch Direct. The LH section of crazily contorted beds suffered a major rockfall in 2011 which took out the upper part of Zeta. The routes here are not everyone's cup of tea but are currently sound enough to climb with enough good gear to make up for the odd loose hold.
The lower cliffs below the platform have a few short climbs but these can be greasy.
The Upper Cliff is home to a photogenic arête Cut-throat E1 5a.
Recommended Climbs (2014)
HVS Finn - Exposed wall climbing with an interesting exit on springy vegetation.
E1 - Cut-throat -short but exciting and on sounder rock than the two cracks to its R
E2 Sidewinder - a straightforward rising traverse on good gear leads to a test of nerve gaining the crumbly looking arête. It is currently sound enough.
E4 The Pinch - With the addition of a superb new overhanging start this classic wall route has been given a new lease of life. The exit path through the thorns has been well gardened too.
E5/6 Wouf Route very steep but with good gear.
New route info can be found here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/index.shtml
Some approaches are tidal but climbing is possible at all states of the tide.
Park as for Berry Head Quarry.
Walk along the coastal footpath which starts about 50m S of the car park. Continue past a grungy-looking zawn until about 100m past a stone stile (and opposite a path into the caravan park). A path leads L beneath the soaring arete of Cut-throat to a wave-cut platform 10m above sea level.
|3||Cut-throat||E1 5a *||2|
|4||Tough Luck||E1 5a||1|
|5||Good Fortune||HVS 5a *||1|
|7||Milk Teeth||E2 5b|
|8||Micro Hunter||VS 5a|
|10||The Bough Breaks||E1 5a|
|11||The Mark of Zorro||E2 5b||1|
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|Dave Henderson reports "a rather large section has fallen off in the Sidewinder area - this will probably affect the routes Sidewinder, Zeta, The Mark of Zorro, When the Wind Blows and The Bough Breaks".|
Kafoozalem - 11/Mar/11