Three esoteric cliffs. The Upper cliff faces SE and gives good short pitches up to E1. The North East facing Main Cliff is a more forboding and is home to the outstanding E4 The Pinch. A recent addition are two climbs on the semi-detached pinnacle at the mouth of Cradle Rock Zawn.
New route info can be found here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/index.shtml
Some approaches are tidal but climbing is possible at all states of the tide.
Park as for Berry Head Quarry.
Walk along the coastal footpath which starts about 50m S of the car park. Continue past a grungy-looking zawn until about 100m past a stone stile (and opposite a path into the caravan park). A path leads L beneath the soaring arete of Cut-throat to a wave-cut platform 10m above sea level.
|3||Cut-throat||E1 5a *||2|
|4||Tough Luck||E1 5a|
|5||Good Fortune||HVS 5a *|
|7||Milk Teeth||E2 5b|
|10||The Mark of Zorro||E2 5b|
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|Dave Henderson reports "a rather large section has fallen off in the Sidewinder area - this will probably affect the routes Sidewinder, Zeta, The Mark of Zorro, When the Wind Blows and The Bough Breaks".|
Kafoozalem - 11/Mar/11