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Guarsay Mor, MingulayHebrides, SCOTLAND
Climbs 70 – Rocktype Gneiss – Altitude 5m a.s.l – Faces all
Enjoy the divebombing bonxies on approach!
Climbs at this crag
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
All routes are approached by abseil with varying degrees of difficulty / commitment / excitement. South Pillar is the most problematic and details are scant: Scottish Rock North says "abseil in line with the square-cut block", but the square-cut block is in the middle of a ~50m-radius headland.
Cobweb Wall: The wall in the south west tip of Guarsay Mor composed of conspicuous web-like veins of pink rock lying both under the huge capping roofs and above the sea, under a series of lower roofs. Access to the base is difficult due to the roofs as abseiling directly over them leaves you 10m out to sea. The easiest access is to abseil from the tip 50m down easy rock on to a ledge system at the extreme south west tip of the headland and directly opposite a cave on the north side of Lianamul stack. Take a further 80m abseil (mostly free) over overhangs to gain a belay at sea level beneath bulging pink walls.
Big Arch: Above and left of the huge sea cave is a big arch with a colony of birds inhabiting the back of it. To the north of this arch, an easy descent ramp leading to a short V Diff wall gives access to a sloping ledge. This runs down into the sea on the north side of the arch culminating in a small deep geo slot at the base. The following routes are around this arch. It is possible to down climb to the base with care, and with only one short section of steep wall at V Diff standard.