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These details were last updated on 25/Jun/2010

Guarsay Mor, Mingulay

Hebrides, SCOTLAND

Climbs 70 – Rocktype Gneiss – Altitude 5m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
The superb cliff-girt peninsula at the north-west tip of Mingulay. From the easily approachable Boulevard area to the more committing South Pillar and Cobweb Wall (see access notes below), the area is matched only by Dun Mingulay on the island for top-quality routes.

Enjoy the divebombing bonxies on approach!

Access notes
All routes are approached by abseil with varying degrees of difficulty / commitment / excitement. South Pillar is the most problematic and details are scant: Scottish Rock North says "abseil in line with the square-cut block", but the square-cut block is in the middle of a ~50m-radius headland.

Cobweb Wall: The wall in the south west tip of Guarsay Mor composed of conspicuous web-like veins of pink rock lying both under the huge capping roofs and above the sea, under a series of lower roofs. Access to the base is difficult due to the roofs as abseiling directly over them leaves you 10m out to sea. The easiest access is to abseil from the tip 50m down easy rock on to a ledge system at the extreme south west tip of the headland and directly opposite a cave on the north side of Lianamul stack. Take a further 80m abseil (mostly free) over overhangs to gain a belay at sea level beneath bulging pink walls.

Big Arch: Above and left of the huge sea cave is a big arch with a colony of birds inhabiting the back of it. To the north of this arch, an easy descent ramp leading to a short V Diff wall gives access to a sloping ledge. This runs down into the sea on the north side of the arch culminating in a small deep geo slot at the base. The following routes are around this arch. It is possible to down climb to the base with care, and with only one short section of steep wall at V Diff standard.

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

0.0mm rain
Sun
19 °C
22 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
19 °C
12 kph

5.0mm rain
Cloudy
17 °C
24 kph

1.4mm rain
Mainly cloudy
16 °C
27 kph

0.3mm rain
Mainly cloudy
17 °C
28 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
Scottish Rock - North (2009)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 THE BOULEVARD  
2One Luxury ItemE1 5b 1
3Soggy ChalkS 4a * 
4AqualungS 4a *1
5Man OverboardHVS 5a *1
6Port PillarHVS 5a 11
7Oh No, Norman's Due Back Tomorrow!E3 6a ***4
8Haunt of SealsE2 5c **4
9Under the PinkE1 5b *22
10Oh No, Archie's Going Round in Circles!HVS 5a **11
11OkeanosE2 5c ***44
12A Word With the BillE3 5c ***21
13Ossian BoulevardE2 5b **18
14Hill You HoeE3 6a **6
15The Mushroom of my FearE3 6a **5
16LongshipsE4 6a **10
17Crystal DazeE3 6a ***5
18Precious DaysE5 6a **5
19Taxing MacpheeE2 5c ***35
20Lost SoulsE4 6a ***21
21Swimming to America (Direct Start)E2 5b *1
22Swimming to AmericaE4 6b ***11
23Sruth na Fir GormE5 6b **2
24Save our SolesE5 6b **4
 WEST FACE  
26Entebbe Sailing ClubVS 4c * 
27The Grass is SingingHVS 5a * 
28Hoon BirdS 4a * 
29Alzheimer's GrooveHVS 5a **2
30No Puke HereVS 4a **2
31Guanomala CityVS 4c  
32Grey RibS 4a **2
33Poet's CornerS 4a ** 
 BIG ARCH  
35The FowlerVS 4c *2
36Thin ManVS 4c * 
37Blood on the RocksVS 4c * 
 Climb nameGradex
38Two Men in a BoatVD *1
39McCall of the WildVS 4c ***9
40The Arch DeaconHVS 5a ***49
41Razorbill RoofsE1 5b **12
 THE ARENA  
43Arch AngelHVS 5a *** 
44The BreachHVS 5a **2
45Cuan a' CheoHVS 5a * 
46Ken in the FireHVS 5b * 
47Fulmars for Effort HVS 5a ** 
48Swine Flu HVS 5a *1
 SOUTH PILLAR  
50Wake Up and Smell the GuanoHVS 5a  
51Shooting StarE1 5b ** 
52MaydayE1 5b ***5
53Pavement PizzaE2 5c ***1
54Fisherman's BluesHVS 5a *1
55StugeronHVS 4c 2
56Pressure BandHVS 5a **1
57Bill Oddie Eat Your Heart OutE1 5b * 
58Conspiracy TheoryE1 5b 3
59GuantasticE1 5b *2
 UNDERCUT WALL  
61RayburntE4 6a ***3
62Burning DesireE5 6b *** 
63The Ocean of TimeE5 6a ***3
64The Secret's OutE5 6a ***3
65Taking the HumpE5 6a *** 
 COBWEB WALL  
67Bikini DreamsE3 5c ***8
68Cuan a BochanE1 5b ***6
69Itsy Bitsy SpiderHVS 5a ***2
70SalvagedHVS 5a *1
71Bill's Yellow EdgeHVS 5b *1
72Arger Sanction E4 6a ** 
73White Hot Spider E4 6a ** 
74Too Young For A Ginghi E1 5b ***1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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