Climbs 70
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 321m a.s.l
Faces W

Friction © Phil Ewels

Crag features

Disused limestone quarry, good quality, quick-drying rock. Wide selection of good single-pitch routes (upto 20 metres).

Approach notes

Follow the A494 Mold bypass towards Ruthin as far as the village of Gwernymynedd. Carry on up the hill to the Rainbow garage and turn left immediately before the garage heading towards the Owain Glyndyr pub. Turn right at the pub and carry on for about a quarter of a mile to a bungalow on the right and, 100 metres furether on, a farm on the left. Just after the bungalow there is a dirt track on the right. Park on the side of the road and walk through a gate and up the muddy track passing some farm buildings on the left; through another gate and into a field where the Main wall of the quarry comes into view.


Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Clwyd Rock (1993)

Out of print:
I live about 5 mins from the crag. The farmers a really nice guy and is normally pottering about outside his house. His dogs friendly too and quite often trots upto the gate with us. I'd agree that its a great place for beginners. Was up there just last week with the missus and it rained as we left home. by the time we'd got there it was dry :-) Plenty of stakes if you want them.
jaswa - 26/Oct/08
Not as nice as it sounds, the rock isn't as fun to climb on as Pothole, but it would still be a good venue for picnicking on a sunny, fresh day.
Fiend - 19/Oct/05
What has happened to 'Rise to the equation E2 5c". I can't find it on these pages.
Julian Wedd - 07/Jun/05
yes there are stakes now there never used to be it was the odd tree and thorne bush when i was a lad!!!
ashaw - 21/Mar/05
Route descriptions for Maeshafn, Devils Gorge and Pot Hole Quarry here:
soph - 21/Mar/05
Very pleasant crag, good for picnics, good routes to.good range of grades
Mirf - 03/Oct/04
Trees to tie on to?? There's loads of (newly-placed?)stakes and good routes.
William - 05/Oct/03
Brilliant crag for beginners: loads of trees at the top to tie off to. However, it\'s a wet grassy slope down to the crag edge - do not forget to tie on.
allan shaw - 26/Mar/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The White Wall 
2Hot Tin RoofE4 6a  
3Pant-y-Gyrdl WallE1 5c 1
4HacoE3 5b 5
5CyclopsE2 5b 1
6Flotta AreteHS 4a 8
7RamaHS 4b 28
8MuslimE1 5a 6
9Running with the WolfE2 5c **26
10PussyfootingE4 5c *8
11White SpringHS 4a 22
12OdysseusHVS 5a 20
13White Wall TraverseE3 5b  
14MaeveE2 5c  
15Wilkinson Sword EdgeVS 4c *18
16The Green WallE4 5c * 
17SitaE2 5c * 
 Main Wall 
19JokerHVD 42
20ThrutchHS 4b 34
21Bumble AreteE1 5b 9
22JoccaE1 5b *23
23Brewing Up With Les WilliamsE4 5c *12
24MoombaE4 6a  
25Inspector GadgetE4 6a 4
26ApexE1 5b 16
27Layback on Me to Bumble Arete Traversef6A 3
28Layback on MeVS 4b *175
29Catfish Rising *VS 5a 2
30RamblerS 4a *292
31Puppy PowerVS 4b **307
32YoboHS 4b *183
33Flying BlockE1 5b *51
34Royal PlumeE2 6a *12
35The MinstrelE1 5b ***213
36Alex's CrackE5 6b *6
37Mathematical WorkoutE3 6a ***48
38Calculus to Flying Block Traversef6A 2
39CalculusE4 5c *22
40The SecretE2 5c *15
41V8 traversef7B 1
42The CornerE1 5b *31
43Cousin ME2 6b 10
44Think a MomentE6 6b 1
45LaxixE5 6a *5
46Knotty ProblemE1 5b *29
47So She DidE3 5c  
48BaraoucheE2 5b 4
49PengrailE1 5b 21
50Main Wall GirdleE3 5c  
 The Amphitheatre 
52Gorilla Waltz
53Blue ChromeHVS 5a 1
54Das BoltE1 5b  
55The RaspE3 5c  
56ItsuE3 5b  
57VulcerHVS 5a 4
58Ram JamE2 5c 3
60Elephant CrackS 4a 51
61Dandy LionHS 4b 49
62SlingHS 4a *166
63Little Finger JamHVS 5b 56
64The BulgerHVS 5b *68
65Shattered CrackHS 4a **200
66The AreteVS 5a *75
67WandererHS 4b *57
68formidableVS 1
E2 5b *2
71Rise to the Equation
E2 5b  
72Holly Tree Wall
VS 5
73YellowE1 5b * 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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