Climbs 70 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
Disused limestone quarry, good quality, quick-drying rock. Wide selection of good single-pitch routes (upto 20 metres).

Approach notes
Permission to climb must be sought from the owner, Mr W. Thomas, at the farm visible on the left of the track. If, for any reason, you are asked to leave, please do so with the minimum amount of fuss.

Follow the A494 Mold bypass towards Ruthin as far as the village of Gwernymynedd. Carry on up the hill to the Rainbow garage and turn left immediately before the garage heading towards the Owain Glyndyr pub. Turn right at the pub and carry on for about a quarter of a mile to a bungalow on the right and, 100 metres furether on, a farm on the left. Just after the bungalow there is a dirt track on the right. Park on the side of the road and walk through a gate and up the muddy track passing some farm buildings on the left; through another gate and into a field where the Main wall of the quarry comes into view.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Clwyd Limestone (2005), Clwyd Rock (1993),
Out of print: Clwyd Limestone (1983)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Hot Tin RoofE4 6a  
2Pant-y-Gyrdl WallE1 5c 1
3HacoE3 5b 5
4CyclopsE2 5b 1
5Flotta AreteHS 4a 8
6RamaHS 4b 28
7MuslimE1 5a 6
8Running with the WolfE2 5c **26
9PussyfootingE4 5c *8
10White SpringHS 4a 22
11OdysseusHVS 5a 20
12White Wall TraverseE3 5b  
13MaeveE2 5c  
14Wilkinson Sword EdgeVS 4c *18
15The Green WallE4 5c  
16SitaE2 5c  
17JokerHVD 42
18ThrutchHS 4b 34
19Bumble AreteE1 5b 9
20JoccaHVS 5a 23
21Brewing Up With Les WilliamsE4 5c *12
22MoombaE4 6a  
23Inspector GadgetE4 6a 4
24ApexHVS 5b 15
25Layback on Me to Bumble Arete TraverseV3 5c 3
26Layback on MeVS 4b 170
27RamblerHS 4a *285
28Puppy PowerVS 4b *297
29YoboHS 4a 180
30Flying BlockE1 5a *50
31Royal PlumeE2 5c *12
32The MinstrelE1 5b ***183
33Alex's CrackE5 6b *6
34Mathematical WorkoutE3 6a ***47
35Calculus to Flying Block TraverseV3 2
36CalculusE4 5c *22
37The SecretE2 5b *15
38V8 traverseV8 1
39The CornerE1 5b *26
40Cousin ME2 6b 10
41Think a MomentE6 6b 1
42LaxixE5 6a *5
43Knotty ProblemE1 5a *27
44So She DidE3 5c  
45BaraoucheE2 5b 4
46PengrailE1 5b 21
47Main Wall GirdleE3 5c  
48Blue ChromeHVS 5a 1
49Das BoltE1 5b  
50The RaspE3 5c  
51ItsuE3 5b  
52VulcerHVS 5a 4
53Ram JamE2 5c 3
55Elephant CrackS 4a 50
56Dandy LionHS 4b 49
57SlingHS 4a *163
58Little Finger JamVS 5b 56
59The BulgerHVS 5a 65
60Shattered CrackHS 4a *196
61The AreteVS 5a 72
62WandererVS 4c 56
63formidableVS 1
65BaroucheE2 5b *2
66Rise to the EquationE2 5b  
67Holly Tree WallVS 5
68Gorilla WaltzHVS 1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
I live about 5 mins from the crag. The farmers a really nice guy and is normally pottering about outside his house. His dogs friendly too and quite often trots upto the gate with us. I'd agree that its a great place for beginners. Was up there just last week with the missus and it rained as we left home. by the time we'd got there it was dry :-) Plenty of stakes if you want them.
jaswa - 26/Oct/08
Not as nice as it sounds, the rock isn't as fun to climb on as Pothole, but it would still be a good venue for picnicking on a sunny, fresh day.
Fiend - 19/Oct/05
What has happened to 'Rise to the equation E2 5c". I can't find it on these pages.
Julian Wedd - 07/Jun/05
yes there are stakes now there never used to be it was the odd tree and thorne bush when i was a lad!!!
ashaw - 21/Mar/05
Route descriptions for Maeshafn, Devils Gorge and Pot Hole Quarry here:
soph - 21/Mar/05
Very pleasant crag, good for picnics, good routes to.good range of grades
Mirf - 03/Oct/04
Trees to tie on to?? There's loads of (newly-placed?)stakes and good routes.
William - 05/Oct/03
Brilliant crag for beginners: loads of trees at the top to tie off to. However, it\'s a wet grassy slope down to the crag edge - do not forget to tie on.
allan shaw - 26/Mar/02