Climbs 97
Rocktype Limestone

How a friday should always be spent © kieranrex

Crag features

Two walls of solid limestone (30m high), one clean, high-quality solid overhanging, full of sportroutes, the other slightly more dirty and vegetated. A convenient bridge spans the Gorge, useful for photography.

There's a small crag below the gorge right next to the river with a few easier pitches.

Approach notes

Start at the T-junction at the west end of the village of Pantymwyn (SJ192646); follow the farm access road down to the west, marked as a public footpath. Go through a gate to the bottom of the hill, then leave the road at the sharp left hand bend and continue straight across a stile. Follow the path for 50 meters and the Gorge will come into view.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
More info
More Guidebooks:
www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995)
Clwyd Rock (1993)

Out of print:
The lovely fence is still there! Right in the way!
Jamie Taylor - 18/Jul/16
Went there at the weekend to boulder but they have put a fence up it doesn't say you can't boulder, but the fence is right where you want your pad
GouldHarry - 04/Jul/16
A large piece of rock with a jug for Firestarter on it has become loose and visibly moves when weight is put on it, my advice is steer clear.
Trexillian - 14/Jun/15
"The BMC have been in contact with the landagent over access to the gorge. The current position is that the owner permits a commercial abseiling company to use the gorge, but has not banned access for recreational climbers." Taken from BMC RAD 12MAY09
dafrob - 12/May/09
Further to Allanís comments: Access has been lost to the Gorge. The situation is currently in the hands of solicitors who are acting in the interests of the land owner. At this stage, the potential for climbers gaining access in the future is unclear. Until all the legal angles have been addressed and possibilities for potential climbing access discussed, please don't aggravate the situation by climbing / trespassing within the fenced area. No developments are expected within the next 1 - 2 months. Check here or the BMC website for updates. The lower bouldering areas adjacent to the river are un-effected by the restrictions. Note: The Gorge and surrounding area form part of a SSSI.
John Elcock - 01/Sep/07
please note the local landowner has now restricted access to the crag and all the caves along the river they are all fenced and gated you have to contact a solicitor in chester to gain access cheers allan shaw
ashaw - 10/Aug/07
About one and a half miles NW if you follow the Leete path toward Rhydymwyn, crosssing Trial hill,(road) there is a disused quarry - good for abseiling. TK (Ex Pantymwyn.)
Anthony King - 28/Jun/06
Don't go there at weekends unless you like competing with massive groups of abseilers!
CENSORED - 05/Apr/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Left Wall 
2LadywriterHS 4
3Portobello BelleHS 4
4A Brown Shade of LimeVS 4c 4
5Single Handed SailorHVS 4c 3
6Follow Me HomeE1 5a *5
7Angel of MercyE2 5a *4
8Grey TripperE2 5a  
9NewsHVS 4c 2
10Where We GoingHS 7
11Great Slab GirdleHVS 5a 4
12Cave WallE4 6a 2
 Main Wall 
14Echoes7a+ *25
15Echoes ExtensionProject  
16The Mark of Zorro7b *3
17Underworld7c **14
18Hades8a+ ***5
19Born Slippy7c+ ***3
20Cerberus8a ***5
21Grand Canyon7b+ ***88
22Canyonlands8a ***9
23Beetroot & Creatine8a ***2
24Devil's Haircut7c ***16
25Broccoli and Ice-Cream7b **46
26An Ivory Smile7c *2
27The Ten Year Fog7c **3
28The Ten Year Fog Extension7c **4
29Ten Year Banana7b+ **2
30Bananas and Coffee7a+ *39
31What's in a Word7a+ *2
32Fairtrade7b+ *4
33Trade Fair7b+ *1
34Uhu6b 8
35Communique
-
E4 5c 1
36La Porte de l'Enfer7b+ *6
37Comfortably Numb7a+ 2
 Under the Bridge 
39Proctor Tribute Traversef7B+ **1
40Under the Gatef6B+ **9
41Under the Bridge SSf7C **1
42Under The Bridgef7B+ ***15
43La Porte de l'Enfer SSf6C *5
44Broken Bonesf7B **2
45Spearfishf7A **4
 Robert Duvall Buttress 
47Wheel Of Strifef7A+ **1
48Caress The MarmotV5 *2
49Front RangeV7  
50Robert Duvall (Lefthand)V6 *2
51Robert DuvallV6 **27
52Duvall Warm UpV3 3
53July RainV6 ***18
 Main Bouldering Cave 
55Owl's hollowV2 2
56The Healerf6B+ **14
57Faith Healer Variationf7A *14
58Faith Healerf7B+ **4
59Spinal TapV11 ***1
60Under PressureV11 ** 
61Fat Bottomed GirlsV11 ** 
62Be Ruthless
-
V9 *24
63Be Ruthless Sit StartV10 **14
64Join The Dotsf8A *** 
65Sunset Sit Startf7C+ ** 
66Panty's Down
-
f7A+ *75
67Pantys Down Sit Startf7B **35
68Thug Mentality
-
V8+ **21
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Luke Owens