View larger mapGrid Ref SJ 189642 (OS Landranger #116)

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These details were last updated on 23/Apr/2012

Pantymwyn (Devil's Gorge)

Clwyd, WALES

Climbs 88 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
Two walls of solid limestone (30m high), one clean, high-quality solid overhanging, full of sportroutes, the other slightly more dirty and vegetated. A convenient bridge spans the Gorge, useful for photography.

Access notes
Start at the T-junction at the west end of the village of Pantymwyn (SJ192646); follow the farm access road down to the west, marked as a public footpath. Go through a gate to the bottom of the hill, then leave the road at the sharp left hand bend and continue straight across a stile. Follow the path for 50 meters and the Gorge will come into view.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Thu  Fri  Sat  Sun 

0.2mm rain
Sunny periods
18 °C
10 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
18 °C
13 kph

0.4mm rain
Mainly cloudy
18 °C
10 kph

0.3mm rain
Sun
17 °C
10 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
17 °C
10 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
Clwyd Limestone (2005), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), Clwyd Rock (1993),
Out of print: Clwyd Limestone (1983)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
 SLABBY WALL  
2LadywriterHS 4
3Portobello BelleHS 3
4A Brown Shade of LimeVS 4c 3
5Single Handed SailorHVS 4c 3
6Follow Me HomeE1 5a *4
7Angel of MercyE2 5a *4
8Grey TripperE2 5a  
9NewsHVS 4c 2
10Where We GoingHS 6
11Great Slab GirdleHVS 5a 4
12Cave Wall6c+ 2
 STEEP WALL  
14Echoes7a+ *14
15Echoes ExtensionProject  
16The Mark of Zorro7b ** 
17Underworld7c **7
18Hades8a+ ***3
19Born Slippy7c+ ***1
20Cerberus8a ***1
21Grand Canyon7b+ ***38
22Grand Canyon ExtensionProject ***1
23Love in the Time of CholeraProject ***2
24Broccoli and Ice-Cream7b **24
25An Ivory Smile7c 1
26The Ten Year Fog7c 2
27The Ten Year Fog Extension7c **2
28Bananas and Coffee7a+ **8
29Whats in a Word7a+ * 
30Fairtrade7b+ * 
31Trade Fair7b+  
32Uhu6b 4
33CommuniqueE4 5c 1
34Under the GateV5 **7
35Under The BridgeV8+ ***12
36La Porte de l'Enfer7b+ *6
37Sit Start to La Porte de l'EnferV4 2
38Comfortably Numb7a *1
39SpearfishV6 **2
 ROBERT DUVALL BUTTRESS  
41Wheel Of Strifef7A+ **1
42Caress The MarmotV5 *2
43Front RangeV7  
44Robert Duvall (Lefthand)V6 * 
45Robert DuvallV6 **21
46Duvall Warm UpV3 2
 Climb nameGradex
47July RainV6 ***14
 MAIN BOULDERING CAVE  
49Faith Healer Variationf7A *12
50Faith Healerf7B+ **3
51The Healerf6B+ **7
52Spinal TapV11 ***1
53Under PressureV11 ** 
54Fat Bottomed GirlsV11 ** 
55Be RuthlessV9 *21
56Be Ruthless Sit StartV10 **14
57Join The Dotsf8A *** 
58Sunset Sit Startf7C+ ** 
59Panty's Downf7A+ *51
60Pantys Down Sit Startf7B **25
61Thug MentalityV8+ **20
62Thug Mentality Sit StartV9 **6
63Mental ExtensionV8 *10
64Mental Extension ExtensionV8+ **4
65Guth MentalityV8 **6
66Thug Mental Sit Startf7C+ 1
67Thug Mentalf7C+ ***4
68The Pantymwyn TraverseV11 **3
69Yellow FinishV10 **1
70Spark'sV10 **5
71Sparks Stand-Startf7A+ 5
72Grinnin' in your Facef7B **2
73Gasoline Straight UpV8+ **5
74Innuendo Bingof8A ***1
75Firestarter into Sparks FinishV7 **36
76PyrotechniqueV8 **6
77Flamethrowerf7B **2
78Fire Breatherf7C 2
79Gasoline sit startV8+ **15
80Gasoline Stand-Startf7A+ *19
81Desperado SitPositionV9 **1
82Desperado DispositionV8+ 2
83Firestarter Direct into Gasolinef7C **1
84Firestarter DirectV7 14
85Firestarter Sans PocketV8 **1
86FirestarterV6 **72
87The ArsonistV7 *1
88Singed Possumf7A *9
89Problem 8V2 5c *26
90Problem 9V4 6b *16
91EmbersV5 **21
92Ripple Tank6a+  
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Luke Owens

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"The BMC have been in contact with the landagent over access to the gorge. The current position is that the owner permits a commercial abseiling company to use the gorge, but has not banned access for recreational climbers." Taken from BMC RAD 12MAY09
dafrob - 12/May/09

Further to Allanís comments: Access has been lost to the Gorge. The situation is currently in the hands of solicitors who are acting in the interests of the land owner. At this stage, the potential for climbers gaining access in the future is unclear. Until all the legal angles have been addressed and possibilities for potential climbing access discussed, please don't aggravate the situation by climbing / trespassing within the fenced area. No developments are expected within the next 1 - 2 months. Check here or the BMC website for updates. The lower bouldering areas adjacent to the river are un-effected by the restrictions. Note: The Gorge and surrounding area form part of a SSSI.
John Elcock - 01/Sep/07

please note the local landowner has now restricted access to the crag and all the caves along the river they are all fenced and gated you have to contact a solicitor in chester to gain access cheers allan shaw
ashaw - 10/Aug/07

About one and a half miles NW if you follow the Leete path toward Rhydymwyn, crosssing Trial hill,(road) there is a disused quarry - good for abseiling. TK (Ex Pantymwyn.)
Anthony King - 28/Jun/06

Don't go there at weekends unless you like competing with massive groups of abseilers!
CENSORED - 05/Apr/04