Pantymwyn (Devil's Gorge)

Climbs 92 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
Two walls of solid limestone (30m high), one clean, high-quality solid overhanging, full of sportroutes, the other slightly more dirty and vegetated. A convenient bridge spans the Gorge, useful for photography.

Access notes
Start at the T-junction at the west end of the village of Pantymwyn (SJ192646); follow the farm access road down to the west, marked as a public footpath. Go through a gate to the bottom of the hill, then leave the road at the sharp left hand bend and continue straight across a stile. Follow the path for 50 meters and the Gorge will come into view.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Clwyd Limestone (2005), (1995), Clwyd Rock (1993),
Out of print: Clwyd Limestone (1983)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2LadywriterHS 4
3Portobello BelleHS 3
4A Brown Shade of LimeVS 4c 3
5Single Handed SailorHVS 4c 3
6Follow Me HomeE1 5a *4
7Angel of MercyE2 5a *4
8Grey TripperE2 5a  
9NewsHVS 4c 2
10Where We GoingHS 6
11Great Slab GirdleHVS 5a 4
12Cave Wall6c+ 2
14Echoes7a+ 16
15Echoes ExtensionProject  
16The Mark of Zorro7b **2
17Underworld7c **12
18Hades8a+ ***4
19Born Slippy7c+ ***3
20Cerberus8a ***1
21Grand Canyon7b+ ***50
22Grand Canyon ExtensionProject ***1
23Devil's Haircut7b+ ***4
24Broccoli and Ice-Cream7b *29
25An Ivory Smile7c *2
26The Ten Year Fog7b+ 3
27The Ten Year Fog Extension7c **3
28Ten Year Banana7b+ ** 
29Bananas and Coffee7a+ 18
30Whats in a Word7a+ 2
31Fairtrade7b+ *2
32Trade Fair7b+ 1
33UhuE4 5c 6
34CommuniqueE4 5c 1
35Under the GateV5 **8
36Under the Bridge SSf7C **1
37Under The BridgeV8+ ***12
38La Porte de l'Enfer7b+ *6
39Sit Start to La Porte de l'EnferV4 5
40Broken Bonesf7B **1
41SpearfishV6 **4
42Comfortably Numb7a 2
44Wheel Of Strifef7A+ **1
45Caress The MarmotV5 *2
46Front RangeV7  
47Robert Duvall (Lefthand)V6 *1
48Robert DuvallV6 **23
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A large piece of rock with a jug for Firestarter on it has become loose and visibly moves when weight is put on it, my advice is steer clear.
Trexillian - 14/Jun/15
"The BMC have been in contact with the landagent over access to the gorge. The current position is that the owner permits a commercial abseiling company to use the gorge, but has not banned access for recreational climbers." Taken from BMC RAD 12MAY09
dafrob - 12/May/09
Further to Allanís comments: Access has been lost to the Gorge. The situation is currently in the hands of solicitors who are acting in the interests of the land owner. At this stage, the potential for climbers gaining access in the future is unclear. Until all the legal angles have been addressed and possibilities for potential climbing access discussed, please don't aggravate the situation by climbing / trespassing within the fenced area. No developments are expected within the next 1 - 2 months. Check here or the BMC website for updates. The lower bouldering areas adjacent to the river are un-effected by the restrictions. Note: The Gorge and surrounding area form part of a SSSI.
John Elcock - 01/Sep/07
please note the local landowner has now restricted access to the crag and all the caves along the river they are all fenced and gated you have to contact a solicitor in chester to gain access cheers allan shaw
ashaw - 10/Aug/07
About one and a half miles NW if you follow the Leete path toward Rhydymwyn, crosssing Trial hill,(road) there is a disused quarry - good for abseiling. TK (Ex Pantymwyn.)
Anthony King - 28/Jun/06
Don't go there at weekends unless you like competing with massive groups of abseilers!
CENSORED - 05/Apr/04