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These details were last updated on 23/Apr/2012

Pantymwyn (Devil's Gorge)

Clwyd, WALES

Climbs 72 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
Two walls of solid limestone (30m high), one clean, high-quality solid overhanging, full of sportroutes, the other slightly more dirty and vegetated. A convenient bridge spans the Gorge, useful for photography.

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
Clwyd Limestone (2005), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), Clwyd Rock (1993),
Out of print: Clwyd Limestone (1983)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 SLABBY WALL  
2LadywriterHS 4
3Portobello BelleHS 3
4A Brown Shade of LimeVS 4c 3
5Single Handed SailorHVS 4c 3
6Follow Me HomeE1 5a *4
7Angel of MercyE2 5a *4
8Grey TripperE2 5a  
9NewsHVS 4c 2
10Where We GoingHS 6
11Great Slab GirdleHVS 5a 4
12Cave Wall6c+ 2
 STEEP WALL  
14Echoes7a+ 10
15The Mark of Zorro7b ** 
16Grand Canyon7b+ ***26
17Love in the time of Cholera7b *1
18Broccoli and Ice-Cream7b *13
19An Ivory Smile7c 1
20The Ten Year Fog7c 2
21The Ten Year Fog Extension7c **1
22Bananas and Coffee7a+ **7
23Whats in a Word7a+ * 
24Fairtrade7b+ * 
25Uhu6b 3
26CommuniqueE4 5c 1
27Under the GateV5 **6
28Under The BridgeV8+ ***5
29La Porte de l'Enfer7b+ *6
30Sit Start to La Porte de l'EnferV4 2
31Comfortably Numb7a *1
32SpearfishV6 **2
 ROBERT DUVALL BUTTRESS  
34Wheel Of Strifef7A+ **1
35Caress The MarmotV5 *1
36Front RangeV7  
37Robert Duvall (Lefthand)V6 * 
38Robert DuvallV6 *17
 Climb nameGradex
39Duvall Warm UpV3  
40July RainV6 ***11
 MAIN BOULDERING CAVE  
42Faith Healer VariationV6 *4
43Faith Healerf7B+ **3
44The Healerf6B+ **1
45Spinal TapV11 *** 
46Under PressureV11 ** 
47Fat Bottomed GirlsV11 ** 
48Be RuthlessV9 *11
49Be Ruthless Sit StartV10 **6
50Join The Dotsf8A *** 
51Sunset Sit Startf7C+ ** 
52Panty's DownV7 *32
53Pantys Down Sit Startf7B **14
54Thug MentalityV8+ **12
55Thug Mentality Sit StartV9 **2
56Mental ExtensionV8 *8
57Guth MentalityV8 **4
58Thug MentalV11 ***3
59The Pantymwyn TraverseV11 ** 
60Yellow FinishV10 ** 
61Spark'sV10 **3
62Firestarter into Sparks finishV7 *21
63PyrotechniqueV8 **4
64Gasoline Straight UpV8+ **5
65Gasoline sit startV8+ **12
66Gasoline Stand-Startf7A+ *15
67Desperado SitPositionV9 ** 
68Desperado DispositionV8+ 1
69Firestarter DirectV7 9
70FirestarterV6 **50
71The ArsonistV7 *1
72Singed Possumf7A *2
73Problem 8V2 5c *19
74Problem 9V4 6b *12
75EmbersV5 **11
76Ripple Tank6a+  
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Access notes
Start at the T-junction at the west end of the village of Pantymwyn (SJ192646); follow the farm access road down to the west, marked as a public footpath. Go through a gate to the bottom of the hill, then leave the road at the sharp left hand bend and continue straight across a stile. Follow the path for 50 meters and the Gorge will come into view.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Luke Owens ?

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"The BMC have been in contact with the landagent over access to the gorge. The current position is that the owner permits a commercial abseiling company to use the gorge, but has not banned access for recreational climbers." Taken from BMC RAD 12MAY09
dafrob ? - 12/May/09

Further to Allan’s comments: Access has been lost to the Gorge. The situation is currently in the hands of solicitors who are acting in the interests of the land owner. At this stage, the potential for climbers gaining access in the future is unclear. Until all the legal angles have been addressed and possibilities for potential climbing access discussed, please don't aggravate the situation by climbing / trespassing within the fenced area. No developments are expected within the next 1 - 2 months. Check here or the BMC website for updates. The lower bouldering areas adjacent to the river are un-effected by the restrictions. Note: The Gorge and surrounding area form part of a SSSI.
John Elcock - 01/Sep/07

please note the local landowner has now restricted access to the crag and all the caves along the river they are all fenced and gated you have to contact a solicitor in chester to gain access cheers allan shaw
ashaw - 10/Aug/07

About one and a half miles NW if you follow the Leete path toward Rhydymwyn, crosssing Trial hill,(road) there is a disused quarry - good for abseiling. TK (Ex Pantymwyn.)
Anthony King - 28/Jun/06

Don't go there at weekends unless you like competing with massive groups of abseilers!
CENSORED - 05/Apr/04