Portishead Quarry

Climbs 44 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces SE

Crag features
Slabby climbing on variable quality rock. Single pitch routes to 50 metres. Protection generally reasonable; some pegs and bolts.

Access notes
Quarry situated approx one mile west of Portishead. Follow B3124 westwards past some houses at a bend in the road. Do not park at the head of the gated entrance lane opposite; there is a layby 250m further up the road on the LHS. Keep the noise down as to not annoy the locals.

Update From BMC Website: (27/03/07) - Avon Wildlife Trust have now reopened the quarry following the scaling of loose rock in partnership with the BMC. The project involved removing a significant amount of loose rock around the large slab, resulting in some superficial marking to the slab - this should decrease in time.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Avon and Cheddar (2004), Avon and Cheddar (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Drummers of Burundi6c
2Digit Pizzicato6c+
3A Little Light Music7b+ *
4PhotonE1 5a
5Zee Zee TopE2 5b
6BallistaS
7Mr PrickleVS 4b
8Baby BirdVS 4c
9Bladder Ladder7b *
10Token GestureE4 6a
11More PleaseE4 6a
12No More PleaseE5 6c
13Exfo '927c+ *
14Luring labiaE4 6a
15L'Homme Absurd7b+
16A Route for the People7a+
17Highway One6c+ ***
18Agenda 217b+
19BiggerballsE4 6b
20Eartheye CornerHS 4a
21Split PersonalityHS 4a
22Fallen Pillar ChimneyS 4a
23Great WhiteE1 5b
24One Rainy WishHS 4a *
25AphroditeE1 5c
26The Brink of SolarityHVS 5a **
27SolusE3 5b/c
28Sandbagging SimonE2 5b
29PickpocketHVS 5a **
30Approaching MaturityE2 5b *
31The BaldestHVS 5a *
32PharosHS 4b *
33The AreteVD
34FinesseS
35Retina PlexusVS 4b
36Central PillarVD
37PanacheD
38BombastS
39Reggae in the GrassE2 5b
40Heavy Cloud;Lots of Rain6a+
41StodMVS 4b
42Small Minded; Long Winded6a+
43Sugar Tip's7a+
44Earth Eye Corner *HS
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Paul Robertson

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Microwave size block came off corner 'one rainy wish' to the left of the slab whilst I was climbing it. Looks like there's more loose rocks on the route
Zolly Whitaker - 10/Nov/14
Lots of very large break away rock on the small bolted wall.
Dan1898 - 20/Apr/14
It's actually just off the B3124 (not B3134 as the guide says). There is also now a rock netting at the top of the main slab which gives a good belay stance and anchor points (as well as protection from falling rocks :-))
wilsers - 09/Mar/14
Climbed here Jun 2011 Not as 'uninspiring' as I was expecting. Bit of a suntrap on the slab.
climbojimbo - 08/Jun/11
Climbed in late summer 2009, fence pole's up around area but no fence in place, may change in future. uninspiring but if your in the area why not?
puzo - 20/Jan/10
Been climbing here late 2007 and early 2008, no access problems. BMC website states site re-opened.
SteveCox - 09/May/08
The routes on the main slab are all still climbable (from BoS to Pharos). Not much change at all except less polish.
thomasadixon - 03/Jun/07
Looks like that official looking bloke has put in boulder catching nets. Nice big bolts holding it in. :P Looks like they have put in new bolts at the top of some of the easier climbs. Some of the rock still looks pretty unstable thou. Climb it and see...
srees2108 - 19/Mar/07
ARSE!
Queequeg - 01/Feb/07
RIP Portishead quarry! Looks like over the weekend there has been a HUGE landslide and alot of the rock has fallen in. Havn't had a close look as there was an official looking bloke climbing it and the were new padlocks on the metal gates, but as you can see from the photo alot of rock has fallen.
srees2108 - 30/Jan/07
There are big gates up but you can walk around them, just not ride a motorbike around them. We had no problems climbing there.
thomasadixon - 25/Aug/06
The quarry is closed at the moment by the management (can't remember the name). The reason given being disturbance by local lads on motorbikes. The sign muttered something about loose rock too in order to curtail climbers usage, but the fact of the quarry's looseness is well known (especially the Sharks Fin etc). Anyway, right or wrong we couldn't see why the behaviour of lads on motorbikes should reflect on climbers so we went in and got no trouble. A few of the locals saw us and didn't seem to mind. The sign also states that the BMC have been informed of the situation.
majormajormajormajor - 30/Jun/06
Routes left of the main slab = death. Sort of. Very loose anyway, much pulling of blocks onto each other.
Tamlyn - 17/Jan/06
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 09/Mar/2014
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