The Cove Tyne & Wear, ENGLAND
Climbs 3 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude Tidal – Faces E
The Cove is the best section of the coastline between Marsden Rock and South Shields for climbing, although fun can be had at various points along this coastline.
The Cove has walls up to 7m high at the seaward end with a steep shingle beach to land on when the tide is out. Very atmospheric considering its proximity to Nissanland and the shipyards. Traversing out over the waves is my favorite.
Good steep traverses and very steep problems, some of them easy lunges between jugs others as hard as you want. (Did I mention that it's steep).
The only drawback is the moisture that coats the crag under certain weather conditions - it must depend on wave size, wind direction, temperature, etc. I've enjoyed climbing there when it's damp but it wouldn't suit the hard problems. Chalk adds to the slippiness on the big holds so use it sparingly.
If it's too wet, try Lonnen (Cleadon) Quarry instead.
Find the Grotto Pub on the Marsden seafront and head north towards South Shields. Where the houses on the left come closest to the road, park just short of the bus stop on the parking lane alongside the wide expanse of grass (The Leas). Head straight down to the coast. If you find a clifftop steel barrier fence, follow it to its northern end. The cove in question is the next one along after the fence ends. There is a concrete strip hiding a pipe running down the small headland that marks the south edge of The Cove.
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There are a few more offerings on the next cove along - north. (North Cove) in particular - the detatched undercut block on the left|
mark237 - 28/Aug/09