Craig-y-Forwen (World's End)

Climbs 138 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces SW

Crag features
Quality, quick-drying limestone. Good selection of routes, single pitch to 25 metres. Tendency to polish on the easier routes. Mainly natural protection with a sprinkling of bolts, but not enogh to make 'sport-climbs'.

Access notes
Follow the A5 to the town of Llangollen. In the town there is a bridge spanning the river Dee. Cross this, and at the T-jct, turn right (East) onto the A539 and then almost immediately, turn left into a small, steep side road. Follow this twisting road, and the crags will soon come into view, until, afetr about four miles you reach a ford. Cross the stream and drive for about 450m further up the hill until you come to a car park on the left hand side. Park here and walk back to the ford to a footpath that follows the stream uphill. Looking up at the left-hand side of the valley, World's End Escarpment can be seen.

Car park now closed parking further on on left.

Please do not park anywhere than the proper car-park, as this could jeopardize the current access agreement with the landowner who currently has no objections to climbers using his crag.

Guidebooks
Clwyd Limestone (2005), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), Clwyd Rock (1993),
Out of print: Clwyd Limestone (1983)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Cathcart's Got a Brand New BrodrieE1 5b
2Finer FeelingsHVS 5a **
3Warp CommanderE1 5b *
4The TrickHVS 5a *
5Vertical GamesE3 6a *
6ChanceE2 5b
7Ash BoleS 4a
8QuillVS 4c
9StingHS 4a *
10Jennifer CrackHS 4a **
11World's EdgeE4 6a **
12Someone Like YouE5 6b *
13Soul on IceE4 5c *
14Les ElephantsVS 4c
15Telegram SamE4 6a *
16Tearg WallE2 5c ***
17Wasters MallE4 6b **
18Heart of DarknessE3 5c **
19Half and HalfS 4a
20Sleeping BeautyE3 6a
21XuxuE2 5b
22SlitherVS 4c *
23Ivy CrackS 4a *
24WitherD
25Christmas SpiritE1 5b
26Flash HarryE5 6b *
27Flash DanceE4 6b **
28Jumping Jack FlashE4 5c
29Craznitch CrackHS 4a
30Close to the EdgeE1 5b **
31IntensityHVS 5a **
32Gone BadE1 5b
33Going BadE2 5b
34Yew and MeE3 5c
35Cigars of the Pharaohs7b *
36Shooting StarE4 6b ***
37The Final Solution8a **
38Sisters of the MoonE5 6a
39Brigadier GerardE5 6a *
40Tripe and LandahE1 5b
41Fossil FinishVS 4c
42Ego BeaverE2 6b *
43Titanium ManE3 6a **
44CrystalE1 5b **
45Dr. TechnicalE4 6b *
46Nurse NurseE5 6b
47Read My LipsE5 6c
48Clartum CornerHS
49Margarine AreteHVS 5a
50WhimHVS 5a **
51WindhoverE2 5c **
52Ivy GrooveVS 4b
53Butter AreteE3 5b **
54Suicide CrackE3 6a ***
55J.T.PHVS 5a
56Open BookS 4a **
57SlapalongVS 4c
58Hells AreteE4 6a
59Fall OutE1 5b ***
60Into The FireE5 6a *
61A' ChevalVD
62Copper PinnacleHS
63SquirmD
64Rough CutHVS 5a
65Crystal ShipE3 5c *
66Dope on a RopeE6 6a *
67Dead Fingers TalkE3 6a *
68IneleganceVD **
69InspirationHS 4b *
70IncompetenceHVD **
71InsecureHVS 5a *
72AshgroveVD
73Crackstone RibE1 5a
74Ashgrove PrelimsVS 4c *
75Black AshHVS 5b
76Black PathE2 5b
77Flakeless GrooveHS 4b
78Gardeners Question TimeS 4a
79Scarface GrooveD
80White CrackVD
81Rich's RobberyS 4a
82White GrooveS 4a
83Twisting CornerHS 4a *
84Bootlace ThreadE5 6a *
85CornucopiaHVS 5a *
86Shabby SlabE1 5a *
87As Yew Like ItS 4a *
88Hornbeam WallVS 4b
89HornwallE1 5b
90HornyE2 5c *
91HornblowerE2 5c *
92Harvey Wall BangerE2 5c *
93HornbeamE3 6a *
94Coltsfoot CornerHS 4b *
95Left EdgeHS 4a *
96Straight EdgeHS 4b *
97Right EdgeVS 4b *
98Coltsfoot CrackHVS 5a *
99ShelfwayS 4a
100End FlakeHVD
101Recession BluesVS 4c *
102RumbleD
103Layback With MeHS
104HandjamS 4a
105Cake WalkVD
106DesistVS 4b
107Mr FlayVS 4a
108MarjounHVS 5a
109Diamond SolitaireE2 5b
110DiamondVS 5a
111PrelE3 6a
112GrassHVD
113SunspotsHVS 5a
114PisaS
115HypertensionE3 5b
116Holly Tree WallS
117CatoS
118Carter U.C.ME2 5c
119The CauseHVS 5a
120Plasuchaf CrackS 4a *
121Muscle BoundE2 5b
122SpetsnazE2 5c
123Icicle Of DeathE3 5c
124Caveman WallE2 5b
125PleurnumS 4a *
126BrinkmanE2 5a
127KinkyE2 5c
128La Di DaE2 5b
129Black OutVS 4c
130Black DogVS 4c
131GanjahS 4a
132Brown CracksS
133Picture AreteVS 4c
134NoseVD
135Ouja ChimneyD
136Under Exposed *VS 4c **
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Joss

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
There's amply parking at the top of the hill beyond the old car park - it's only an extra 75m of walking! Come on folks, don't block the road, walk just that little bit further!
GrahamUney - 14/Jun/14
Been on the inelegance area today. Lovely half day of climbing - great crag. BE WARNED: there is a significant amount of loose rock at the top of inelegance (shared with incompetance). A large block on one if pinnacles detached whilst I was standing on it - fortunately we were climbing inelegance (not incompetance) or it would have hit the belayer. Higher up virtually every block/obvious hold was moving alarmingly. Be careful.
Gob_Stopper - 08/Mar/14
The car park now appears to be closed and people are parking in the limited lay-bys along the lane. The BMC RAD confirms this.
matthewpwilson - 04/Aug/13
Many of the easier lines follow very strong cracklines - quite different from the peak limestone I've climbed on. I did an awful lot of hand and fist jamming. A little short and a tad polished but lovely views.
TobyA - 16/Jul/07
Please note that the car park is only open 8am to 8pm. You cannot see the notice at this time of year as it is obscured by vegetation.
snowcat - 15/Aug/06
Climbers are still parking in the lay-byes at the bottom of the Hill, please read the access notes.
andy wilcox - 26/Apr/06
nearly fell off
Catherine - 20/Mar/06
love it its not far away only the easy stuff is polished and the trees at the top make bringing up a second a doddle
ashaw - 26/Jan/06
Not as nice as it looks. From the guide photos and even from the road, it looked great, but closer up the rock is as obtuse and awkward to climb on as standard Peak limestone. The situation is still very good, though.
Fiend - 19/Oct/05
Crystal E1 5b. Is that really the grade? Each piece of pro in needed and placed in a sustained position. Who else has done it? What did the think to the grade?
Ian Henderson - 26/Sep/05
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 09/Oct/2014

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