Worlds End under the stars © Joss
Quality, quick-drying limestone. Good selection of routes, single pitch to 25 metres. Tendency to polish on the easier routes. Mainly natural protection with a sprinkling of bolts, but not enogh to make 'sport-climbs'.
Follow the A5 to the town of Llangollen. In the town there is a bridge spanning the river Dee. Cross this, and at the T-jct, turn right (East) onto the A539 and then almost immediately, turn left into a small, steep side road. Follow this twisting road, and the crags will soon come into view, until, afetr about four miles you reach a ford. Cross the stream and drive for about 450m further up the hill until you come to a car park on the left hand side. Park here and walk back to the ford to a footpath that follows the stream uphill. Looking up at the left-hand side of the valley, World's End Escarpment can be seen.
Car park now closed parking further on on left.
Please do not park anywhere than the proper car-park, as this could jeopardize the current access agreement with the landowner who currently has no objections to climbers using his crag.
Climbers are asked to use slings if using the trees for belaying or abseiling to avoid ring-barking. Please note: the car park which is privately owned now appears to be closed and car parking places are severely limted on the roadside, and nearest parking is on the roadside at the open moor above the old car park. - Please take great care not to block the lane, passing places or any gateways. The crag is just outside the Open Access land boundary. See map here; http://www.ccw.gov.uk/