Craig-y-Forwen (World's End)

Climbs 138 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces SW

Crag features

Quality, quick-drying limestone. Good selection of routes, single pitch to 25 metres. Tendency to polish on the easier routes. Mainly natural protection with a sprinkling of bolts, but not enogh to make 'sport-climbs'.

Approach notes

Follow the A5 to the town of Llangollen. In the town there is a bridge spanning the river Dee. Cross this, and at the T-jct, turn right (East) onto the A539 and then almost immediately, turn left into a small, steep side road. Follow this twisting road, and the crags will soon come into view, until, afetr about four miles you reach a ford. Cross the stream and drive for about 450m further up the hill until you come to a car park on the left hand side. Park here and walk back to the ford to a footpath that follows the stream uphill. Looking up at the left-hand side of the valley, World's End Escarpment can be seen.
Car park now closed parking further on on left.
Please do not park anywhere than the proper car-park, as this could jeopardize the current access agreement with the landowner who currently has no objections to climbers using his crag.

Access notes

Climbers are asked to use slings if using the trees for belaying or abseiling to avoid ring-barking. Please note: the car park which is privately owned now appears to be closed and car parking places are severely limted  on the roadside, and nearest parking is on the roadside at  the open moor above the old car park. - Please take great care not to block the lane, passing places or any gateways. The crag is just outside the Open Access land boundary. See map here;

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Clwyd Limestone (2005), (1995), Clwyd Rock (1993),
Out of print: Clwyd Limestone (1983)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Cathcart's Got a Brand New BrodrieE1 5b 10
2Finer FeelingsHVS 5a **86
3Warp CommanderE1 5b *31
4The TrickHVS 5a *17
5Vertical GamesE3 6a *4
6ChanceE2 5b 6
7Ash BoleS 4a 13
8Under ExposedVS 4c **1
9QuillVS 4c 63
10StingHS 4a *91
11Jennifer CrackHS 4a **65
12World's EdgeE4 6a **10
13Someone Like YouE5 6b * 
14Soul on IceE4 5c *1
15Les ElephantsVS 4c 9
16Telegram SamE4 6a * 
17Tearg WallE2 5c ***91
18Wasters MallE4 6b **1
19Heart of DarknessE3 5c **7
20Half and HalfS 4a 35
21Sleeping BeautyE3 6a  
22XuxuE2 5b 2
23SlitherVS 4c *24
24Ivy CrackS 4a *58
25WitherD 22
26Christmas SpiritE1 5b 22
27Flash HarryE5 6b *1
28Flash DanceE4 6b **8
29Jumping Jack FlashE4 5c  
30Craznitch CrackHS 4a 37
31Close to the EdgeE1 5b **36
32IntensityHVS 5a **43
33Gone BadE1 5b 3
34Going BadE2 5b 2
35Yew and MeE3 5c 1
36Cigars of the Pharaohs7b *7
37Shooting StarE4 6b ***10
38The Final Solution8a **9
39Sisters of the MoonE5 6a  
40Brigadier GerardE5 6a *2
41Tripe and LandahE1 5b 9
42Fossil FinishVS 4c 8
43Ego BeaverE2 6b *6
44Titanium ManE3 6a **14
45CrystalE1 5b **26
46Dr. TechnicalE4 6b *1
47Nurse NurseE5 6b 2
48Read My LipsE5 6c  
49Clartum CornerHS 3
50Margarine AreteHVS 5a 13
51WhimHVS 5a **145
52WindhoverE2 5c **41
53Ivy GrooveVS 4b 35
54Butter AreteE3 5b **44
55Suicide CrackE3 6a ***33
56J.T.PHVS 5a 65
57Open BookS *244
58SlapalongVS 4c 35
59Hells AreteE4 6a 4
60Fall OutE1 5b ***100
61Into The FireE5 6a * 
62A' ChevalVD 35
63Copper PinnacleHS 7
64SquirmD 43
65Rough CutHVS 5a 14
66Crystal ShipE3 5c *5
67Dope on a RopeE6 6a *2
68Dead Fingers TalkE3 6a *6
69IneleganceVD **215
70InspirationHS 187
71IncompetenceHVD **215
72InsecureHVS 5a *127
73AshgroveVD 35
74Crackstone RibE1 5a 11
75Ashgrove PrelimsVS 4c *130
76Black AshHVS 5b 38
77Black PathE2 5b 7
78Flakeless GrooveHS 4b 39
79Gardeners Question TimeS 4a 75
80Scarface GrooveD 80
81White CrackVD 173
82Rich's RobberyS 4a 60
83White GrooveS 4a 101
84Twisting CornerHS 4a *115
85Bootlace ThreadE5 6a *2
86CornucopiaHVS 5a *15
87Shabby SlabE1 5a *27
88As Yew Like ItS 4a *176
89Hornbeam WallVS 4b 30
90HornwallE1 5b 34
91HornyE2 5c *5
92HornblowerE2 5c *16
93Harvey Wall BangerE2 5c *9
94HornbeamE3 6a *4
95Coltsfoot CornerHS 4b *214
96Left EdgeHS 4a *158
97Straight EdgeHS 4b *122
98Right EdgeVS 4b *111
99Coltsfoot CrackHVS 5a *122
100ShelfwayS 4a 197
101End FlakeHVD 215
102Recession BluesVS 4c *89
103RumbleD 6
104Layback With MeHS 14
105HandjamS 4a 8
106Cake WalkVD 16
107DesistVS 4b 7
108Mr FlayVS 4a 6
109MarjounHVS 5a 4
110Diamond SolitaireE2 5b  
111DiamondVS 5a 3
112PrelE3 6a  
113GrassHVD 1
114SunspotsHVS 5a 1
115PisaS 2
116HypertensionE3 5b  
117Holly Tree WallS 8
118CatoS 8
119Carter U.C.ME2 5c  
120The CauseHVS 5a 5
121Plasuchaf CrackS 4a *17
122Muscle BoundE2 5b 5
123SpetsnazE2 5c 6
124Icicle Of DeathE3 5c  
125Caveman WallE2 5b  
126PleurnumS 4a *26
127BrinkmanE2 5a 1
128KinkyE2 5c  
129La Di DaE2 5b  
130Black OutVS 4c 11
131Black DogVS 4c 5
132GanjahS 4a 15
133Brown CracksS 11
134Picture AreteVS 4c 9
135NoseVD 10
136Ouja ChimneyD 15
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
There's amply parking at the top of the hill beyond the old car park - it's only an extra 75m of walking! Come on folks, don't block the road, walk just that little bit further!
GrahamUney - 14/Jun/14
Been on the inelegance area today. Lovely half day of climbing - great crag. BE WARNED: there is a significant amount of loose rock at the top of inelegance (shared with incompetance). A large block on one if pinnacles detached whilst I was standing on it - fortunately we were climbing inelegance (not incompetance) or it would have hit the belayer. Higher up virtually every block/obvious hold was moving alarmingly. Be careful.
RichJ634 - 08/Mar/14
The car park now appears to be closed and people are parking in the limited lay-bys along the lane. The BMC RAD confirms this.
matthewpwilson - 04/Aug/13
Many of the easier lines follow very strong cracklines - quite different from the peak limestone I've climbed on. I did an awful lot of hand and fist jamming. A little short and a tad polished but lovely views.
TobyA - 16/Jul/07
Please note that the car park is only open 8am to 8pm. You cannot see the notice at this time of year as it is obscured by vegetation.
snowcat - 15/Aug/06
Climbers are still parking in the lay-byes at the bottom of the Hill, please read the access notes.
andy wilcox - 26/Apr/06
nearly fell off
Catherine - 20/Mar/06
love it its not far away only the easy stuff is polished and the trees at the top make bringing up a second a doddle
ashaw - 26/Jan/06
Not as nice as it looks. From the guide photos and even from the road, it looked great, but closer up the rock is as obtuse and awkward to climb on as standard Peak limestone. The situation is still very good, though.
Fiend - 19/Oct/05
Crystal E1 5b. Is that really the grade? Each piece of pro in needed and placed in a sustained position. Who else has done it? What did the think to the grade?
Ian Henderson - 26/Sep/05