Craig-y-Forwen (World's End) Clwyd, WALES
Climbs 138 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces SW
Quality, quick-drying limestone. Good selection of routes, single pitch to 25 metres. Tendency to polish on the easier routes. Mainly natural protection with a sprinkling of bolts, but not enogh to make 'sport-climbs'.
Follow the A5 to the town of Llangollen. In the town there is a bridge spanning the river Dee. Cross this, and at the T-jct, turn right (East) onto the A539 and then almost immediately, turn left into a small, steep side road. Follow this twisting road, and the crags will soon come into view, until, afetr about four miles you reach a ford. Cross the stream and drive for about 450m further up the hill until you come to a car park on the left hand side. Park here and walk back to the ford to a footpath that follows the stream uphill. Looking up at the left-hand side of the valley, World's End Escarpment can be seen.
Please do not park anywhere than the proper car-park, as this could jeopardize the current access agreement with the landowner who currently has no objections to climbers using his crag.
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Clwyd Limestone (2005), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), Clwyd Rock (1993),
Out of print: Clwyd Limestone (1983)
Climbs at this crag
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There's amply parking at the top of the hill beyond the old car park - it's only an extra 75m of walking! Come on folks, don't block the road, walk just that little bit further!
GrahamUney - 14/Jun/14
Been on the inelegance area today. Lovely half day of climbing - great crag.
BE WARNED: there is a significant amount of loose rock at the top of inelegance (shared with incompetance). A large block on one if pinnacles detached whilst I was standing on it - fortunately we were climbing inelegance (not incompetance) or it would have hit the belayer. Higher up virtually every block/obvious hold was moving alarmingly. Be careful.
Gob_Stopper - 08/Mar/14
The car park now appears to be closed and people are parking in the limited lay-bys along the lane. The BMC RAD confirms this.
matthewpwilson - 04/Aug/13
Many of the easier lines follow very strong cracklines - quite different from the peak limestone I've climbed on. I did an awful lot of hand and fist jamming. A little short and a tad polished but lovely views.
TobyA - 16/Jul/07
Please note that the car park is only open 8am to 8pm. You cannot see the notice at this time of year as it is obscured by vegetation.
snowcat - 15/Aug/06
Climbers are still parking in the lay-byes at the bottom of the Hill, please read the access notes.
andy wilcox - 26/Apr/06
nearly fell off
Catherine - 20/Mar/06
love it its not far away only the easy stuff is polished and the trees at the top make bringing up a second a doddle
ashaw - 26/Jan/06
Not as nice as it looks. From the guide photos and even from the road, it looked great, but closer up the rock is as obtuse and awkward to climb on as standard Peak limestone. The situation is still very good, though.
Fiend - 19/Oct/05
Crystal E1 5b. Is that really the grade? Each piece of pro in needed and placed in a sustained position. Who else has done it? What did the think to the grade?
Ian Henderson - 26/Sep/05