Climbs 108
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces W

Goodbye 2012 © Mark Collins

Crag features

Mostly good quality quarried gritstone. Can be sandy in places. Some fantastic routes equal to peak classics. Mohammed the Mad.... is unmissable at VS 4c as is Splash Arete at VDiff. Flick of the Wrist and End of Time are superb and tricky E2s. Generally the routes have a bold feel to them; protection can be sparse and the fixed gear is often poor. The quarry does not deserve the poor reputation it seems to have despite the steady influx of summer visitors. There is also some very good but limited bouldering.

Bouldering topo available here:

Approach notes

No problems. Owned by Council which is happy to let climbers in.

Watch for local kids chucking stones from the tops in summer.


Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lancashire Bouldering (2014)
Lancashire Rock (1999)

Out of print:
Did a new route here yesterday: The route starts the same as Mad Karoo and Time until it gains the ledge at 3 meters. Then goes direct up the main wall 1 meter left of Time, climbing on thin crimps until it reaches the break (protection) and then continues direct to the finish of Mad Karoo. I have named the route ‘Bout Time and graded it at E3 5c. I lead the route yesterday (19/06/11) with Adrian Wright. We are both members of the LC&CC. Simon Holden
Simon Holden (LCandCC) - 20/Jun/11
My local crag and one of my favourite in lancashire, the climbs round the pool area are the best although bold. Dries quickly (the area's you want dry) in about an hour with sun, perfect for an evenings climbing! Only a small detour from the M6 so if your heading south a perfect place for a quick climb. Must do routes are Mohammed, Splash Arete, Concave Wall, Time, End of Time, Flick of the Wrist, Main Break and Step in the Clouds.
joe.91 - 14/Nov/10
Was here April 2008 on a cold Thurs night, the Council have done a clean up and overall it's lloking ok here
PDL - 20/May/08
when we were there recently (april 2007) on a lovely sunny day we had to contend with a guy with a petrol powered remote controlled car, a young lad skidding about on a scrambler and worst of all a group of kids pouring a container of oil down one climb, leaving an oil slick all the way down the rock and into the pool which was still visible a couple of weeks later. i still think its a great little quarry with a good variation of climbs but is in danger of being ruined by the saturday night cider crew and those who like to make as much noise as possible for recreation.
gjh1978 - 27/Apr/07
Mind the dog poo, but yea potentially as good as Parbold, take from that what you will, Splash Arete is a nice climb and the concave wall is ok once you have done it, think its a place where you have to form your own opinion of. Some nice climbing but only for on the way to wiltons or anglezarke
Jimbo MSider - 08/Nov/06
Mohammed the Mad Monk of the Moorside and Splash Arrete are really good climbs for those who are just getting into there outdoor climbing.
Chris Rhodes - 17/Aug/05
Don\'t leave without climbing Mohammed (VS 4c), a classic route which is never too hard and has plenty of protection available.
Matthew Rushton - 14/Apr/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Pool Area 
D 11
HS 4b 8
4Short circuit
E1 5c *1
5One Man from Cairo
HVS 5b *3
HVS 5a 4
7Narrow Slab
D 10
8Splash AreteVD **173
9Last Day but OneE3 5c *4
10SplashbackE8 6b ** 
VD 18
VS 4c 11
E2 5b 4
E1 5b, 4b *2
15Flick of the WristE2 6a **27
16That's All it TakesE4 6b *5
17End of TimeE2 5b **66
18TimeE1 5a **151
19Mad KarooHVS 5a *114
20'Bout TimeE3 5c 4
21Complete StreakerVS 4c ***70
22Concave WallS 4a *436
VD 33
24Vague Groovef5 9
25Crackpotf6B *4
26monk puzzle
HVS 5c, 4c 12
27Pickpocketf5 9
28Pickpocket Directf5+ 10
29Snatchf8A ** 
30Brittle Nerve
E3 6a  
31Private Palpate
E4 6b 1
32TimepieceHVS 5a *21
33Wallf5+ 8
34Mohammed the Morbid MogulS 4a 133
35Going For the OneE2 5b 24
36They Don't Sell Bolts at Glacier SportsE5 6b **1
37Mohammed the Mad Monk of Moorside Home for Mental MisfitsVS 4c ***574
38The Denham Traversef7C ***5
39Mohammed AreteE1 5a *42
40Mohammed the Medieval MelancholicVS 4c *215
41Mick the Quilt
E4 6a  
42Green Finger Crack
VS 4b 7
VS 5b 13
 Right Intermediate Area 
45Eric's Arete
E1 5b 1
46Den Diedre
VD 5
47Tower View
VD 11
48Tower Ridge
VD 5
49Tower Groove
D 13
50Tower PowerS 4
51Sea Of SlimeVS 4b 3
M 24
53The Clangers
HS 4b 19
54Notions Of Disposibility
E1 5c 1
55Albert's Arete
D 11
HS 4b 3
HVS 5a 4
VS 4c 26
E5 6c  
HVS 5a 1
61Aviemore AreteS 19
62SlabracadabraVS 5b 2
 Left Intermediate Area 
VD 4
65Curving Crack
D 9
66Slanting Groove
D 14
67Thin Finger Crack
VS 4c 13
68Groove And Wall
HS 4a 9
69Low Rib
VD 38
HVS 5a  
 Far Intermediate Area 
VS 4c 4
VD 7
VS 5b 3
75The Ceaseless Tide
VS 5c 4
76Snap Derisionf7B **2
VS 4c 5
78Abrasions and Lacerations
VS 5a 6
 Overhang Area 
80The Edge
VD 72
M 121
D 49
VD 85
S 4a 59
85Central Buttress
D 105
86Central Buttress DirectVD *149
87Cuckoo's NestHVS 5b 10
88The Layback
VS 4c 70
VD 31
E1 5c 1
91ButterflyS 4a 13
92Step in the Clouds
S 4b *197
93The Funny Farm
HS 4b *89
94There's A Ghost In My Acid House
E1 6a 2
E1 5b 15
96Quasimodo steps into the CloudsE1 5b 2
97Super Indirectissima
A2 3
98Screaming Meemies
E3 6a 3
99BullwokerE4 6a **2
100Eff Vee Tee
E4 6b  
VS 4a 6
HVS 5a  
E2 5c 2
104Jimmy Sideways
HVS 5a  
HVS 5a  
106Rocking Horse Droppings
S 4a 4
107Main BreakHS 4a **154
108Little Monkeyf6C 2
109The aretef5+ 4
110Easy Groovef3 6
111Undercut Problemf7B *1
112Short Wallf5 2
113Sandy Cavef5+ 2

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