Climbs 108
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces W

Goodbye 2012 © Mark Collins

Crag features

Mostly good quality quarried gritstone. Can be sandy in places. Some fantastic routes equal to peak classics. Mohammed the Mad.... is unmissable at VS 4c as is Splash Arete at VDiff. Flick of the Wrist and End of Time are superb and tricky E2s. Generally the routes have a bold feel to them; protection can be sparse and the fixed gear is often poor. The quarry does not deserve the poor reputation it seems to have despite the steady influx of summer visitors. There is also some very good but limited bouldering.

Bouldering topo available here: http://www.vimeo.com/groups/UKBouldering/files

Approach notes

No problems. Owned by Council which is happy to let climbers in.

Watch for local kids chucking stones from the tops in summer.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lancashire Rock (2016)
Lancashire Bouldering (2014)
Lancashire Rock (1999)

Out of print:
Hi all, I was climbing at Denham quarry on Tuesday and accidently left a ball-nut slider and a couple of wild country classic nuts at the base of Mohammed the Mad Monk. Although it might not seem like a big loss, being a student it would be great if somebody had pick them up and could get in touch. I am local to the Preston area and climb in the quarries regularly so could offer a belay as a reward!! Cheers
Jay Hartford - 02/Jun/16
Did a new route here yesterday: The route starts the same as Mad Karoo and Time until it gains the ledge at 3 meters. Then goes direct up the main wall 1 meter left of Time, climbing on thin crimps until it reaches the break (protection) and then continues direct to the finish of Mad Karoo. I have named the route ‘Bout Time and graded it at E3 5c. I lead the route yesterday (19/06/11) with Adrian Wright. We are both members of the LC&CC. Simon Holden
Simon Holden (LCandCC) - 20/Jun/11
My local crag and one of my favourite in lancashire, the climbs round the pool area are the best although bold. Dries quickly (the area's you want dry) in about an hour with sun, perfect for an evenings climbing! Only a small detour from the M6 so if your heading south a perfect place for a quick climb. Must do routes are Mohammed, Splash Arete, Concave Wall, Time, End of Time, Flick of the Wrist, Main Break and Step in the Clouds.
joe.91 - 14/Nov/10
Was here April 2008 on a cold Thurs night, the Council have done a clean up and overall it's lloking ok here
PDL - 20/May/08
when we were there recently (april 2007) on a lovely sunny day we had to contend with a guy with a petrol powered remote controlled car, a young lad skidding about on a scrambler and worst of all a group of kids pouring a container of oil down one climb, leaving an oil slick all the way down the rock and into the pool which was still visible a couple of weeks later. i still think its a great little quarry with a good variation of climbs but is in danger of being ruined by the saturday night cider crew and those who like to make as much noise as possible for recreation.
gjh1978 - 27/Apr/07
Mind the dog poo, but yea potentially as good as Parbold, take from that what you will, Splash Arete is a nice climb and the concave wall is ok once you have done it, think its a place where you have to form your own opinion of. Some nice climbing but only for on the way to wiltons or anglezarke
Jimbo MSider - 08/Nov/06
Mohammed the Mad Monk of the Moorside and Splash Arrete are really good climbs for those who are just getting into there outdoor climbing.
Chris Rhodes - 17/Aug/05
Don\'t leave without climbing Mohammed (VS 4c), a classic route which is never too hard and has plenty of protection available.
Matthew Rushton - 14/Apr/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Pool Area 
2Ashimoto
-
D 13
3Waldo
-
HS 4b 8
4Short circuit
-
E1 5c *1
5One Man from Cairo
-
HVS 5b *4
6Gnomely
-
HVS 5a 5
7Narrow Slab
-
D 18
8Splash AreteVD **207
9Last Day but OneE3 5c *4
10SplashbackE8 6b ** 
11Wet
-
VD 23
12Damp
-
VS 4c 14
13Acapulco
-
E2 5b 4
14Dry
-
E1 5b, 4b *3
15Flick of the WristE2 6a **30
16That's All it TakesE4 6b *6
17End of TimeE2 5b **73
18TimeE1 5a **168
19Mad KarooHVS 5a *129
20'Bout TimeE3 5c 4
21Complete StreakerVS 4c ***96
22Concave WallS 4a *494
23Bevel
-
VD 35
24Vague GrooveV1 12
25CrackpotV4 *4
26monk puzzle
-
HVS 5c, 4c 13
27PickpocketV1 9
28Pickpocket DirectV2 10
29Snatchf8A ** 
30Brittle Nerve
-
E3 6a  
31Private Palpate
-
E4 6b 1
32TimepieceHVS 5a *22
33WallV2 10
34Mohammed the Morbid MogulS 4a 156
35Going For the OneE2 5b 25
36They Don't Sell Bolts at Glacier SportsE5 6b **2
37Mohammed the Mad Monk of Moorside Home for Mental MisfitsVS 4c ***701
38The Denham Traversef7A+ ***6
39Mohammed AreteE1 5a *49
40Mohammed the Medieval MelancholicVS 4c *256
41Mick the Quilt
-
E4 6a  
42Green Finger Crack
-
VS 4b 9
43Cyclops
-
VS 5b 15
 Right Intermediate Area 
45Eric's Arete
-
E1 5b 1
46Den Diedre
-
VD 7
47Tower View
-
VD 14
48Tower Ridge
-
VD 6
49Tower Groove
-
D 15
50Tower PowerS 6
51Sea Of SlimeVS 4b 3
52Ledgeway
-
M 29
53The Clangers
-
HS 4b 19
54Notions Of Disposibility
-
E1 5c 1
55Albert's Arete
-
D 12
56Nuts
-
HS 4b 4
57Pop
-
HVS 5a 5
58Rivet
-
VS 4c 28
59Fujari
-
E5 6c  
60Janet
-
HVS 5a 1
61Aviemore AreteS 20
62SlabracadabraVS 5b 2
 Left Intermediate Area 
64Hough
-
VD 5
65Curving Crack
-
D 10
66Slanting Groove
-
D 15
67Thin Finger Crack
-
VS 4c 15
68Groove And Wall
-
HS 4a 11
69Low Rib
-
VD 40
70Finito
-
HVS 5a 1
 Far Intermediate Area 
72Sprain
-
VS 4c 5
73Midget
-
VD 8
74Nosey
-
VS 5b 5
75The Ceaseless Tide
-
VS 5c 5
76Snap Derisionf7B **2
77Fingerbore
-
VS 4c 6
78Abrasions and Lacerations
-
VS 5a 6
 Overhang Area 
80The Edge
-
VD 79
81Trigular
-
M 144
82Extra
-
D 63
83Intra
-
VD 98
84Lintel
-
S 4a 67
85Central Buttress
-
D 117
86Central Buttress DirectVD *164
87Cuckoo's NestHVS 5b 11
88The Layback
-
VS 4c 77
89Dislocation
-
VD 33
90Wings
-
E1 5c 1
91ButterflyS 4a 18
92Step in the Clouds
-
S 4b *228
93The Funny Farm
-
HS 4b *103
94There's A Ghost In My Acid House
-
E1 6a 2
95Quasimodo
-
E1 5b 16
96Quasimodo steps into the CloudsE1 5b 2
97Super Indirectissima
-
A2 4
98Screaming Meemies
-
E3 6a 4
99BullwokerE4 6a **2
100Eff Vee Tee
-
E4 6b  
101Ganglion
-
VS 4a 6
102Chronometer
-
HVS 5a  
103Crono-Logical
-
E2 5c 2
104Jimmy Sideways
-
HVS 5a  
105Rockdancer
-
HVS 5a  
106Rocking Horse Droppings
-
S 4a 6
107Main BreakHS 4a **173
108Little Monkeyf6C 2
109The aretef5+ 5
110Easy Groovef3 8
111Undercut ProblemV8 *1
112Short Wallf5 3
113Sandy Cavef5+ 3

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