Climbs 90
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 45m a.s.l
Faces W

Ally Smith on his new route, Chocoholic, E5 6a, Upper Wall, Avon Gorge. © James Jackson

Crag features

Slabby, easy angled lime stone, lots of excellent routes in the easier grades, but protection tends to be sparse, and many of the plum lines suffer from polish. Some of the best bouldering in the area can be had here. Multi-pitch routes to 90 metres.

Approach notes

Park at Main Wall and walk, or in Clifton and walk down the zig-zags near Bridge Valley Road.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)
Avon and Cheddar (2004)

Out of print:
Whoever has recently put the action man on the Aid line over the overhang is a complete lad.
Stanners - 30/Mar/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Morning Slab 
2Dawn WalkS 4a *200
3The CornerHVS 4c *87
4Mason's Plank WalkA2 1
5Turn of the Screw
-
A3 5
6ReveilleHVS 4c *161
7Tiptoe FingersHVS 5a 8
8PricelessE2 6a 1
9Rude AwakeningE2 5b *16
10Morty's Error
-
E2 5b 35
11Mike's MistakeE1 5b **179
12Lime in de Coconut
-
E3 5b  
13Lost in Space
-
E2 5b 2
14Mark's MoralityE2 5b 8
15Last TrumpE2 5b *40
16Last PostVS 4c 28
17ClarionVS 4c **489
18SinisterHS 4b **556
19Good Morning YouHS 4b 2
20Dexter variation- poindexterHVS 4c *1
21DexterHS 4b *399
22Dark MotiveHVS 5a 7
23MediatorE1 5b 46
24The AreteVD 4a **780
25Gurgle Girdle
-
VS 4c 17
 Evening Wall 
27Consolation
-
VD 21
28Ledge and Groove
-
D 16
29Boilerplate DirectVS 4b 14
30Boilerplate RibVS 4a 28
31AftermathVS 4c *120
32Evening Topsy Direct
-
HVS 5a 5
33Bob's ClimbVD **423
34Grey Wall
-
VD 20
35The Final Cut?
-
E2 5b 11
36PetrosVS 4c **425
37Direct RouteS 4a *425
38Direct FinishS 4a 94
39Original RouteD 282
 Central Buttress 
41Central Gully
-
HS 4a 125
42Central SlabHVS 5a 32
43Central RibVS 4b *221
44The Inverted-VVS 4c 8
45Great Central Piton Route Eliminate
-
E1 5a *20
46Great Central RouteHVS 5a ***276
47Piton RouteVS 4c **559
48Central EliminateE1 5b 4
49Grand Central Station
-
E2 5c *19
50Central ButtressE1 5a ***172
51CentaurE2 5b *6
52Pleb in Peril
-
E4 5c 4
53Centaur's Groove
-
E1 5a *11
54Diamond Groove
-
HVS 5b 35
55Not before Time
-
E5 5c 1
56Slap 'n' TickleE2 6b 2
57Desperation
-
E1 5a 13
58Easy RouteM 98
59CorridorVS 4
60HiatusVS 2
 Exhibition Slab 
62Route Two
-
none 5a 6
63Route Minus Twonone 5a 12
64Route Minus One
-
none 6a 7
65Route 0none 5c 19
66Route Onenone 5b 32
67Joe's Problemnone 5c 11
 Fir Tree Slab 
69Left Edge Route
-
VD 24
70Rake and Slab
-
M 28
71Descent Route
-
M 38
72Itslide
-
none 4b 33
73Inferior Rubbers
-
none 5a *36
74Friction
-
none 5a 12
75Fir Tree Traverse
-
VD 16
76Fingerrip
-
none 5b 4
77Artifax
-
none 5a 2
78Sockrot
-
none 5c 3
79Yoyo
-
none 5b 1
80Vee Climb
-
none 4c 3
81Superior Blubber
-
none 5b  
82Bulging Wall
-
HVS 5a 2
83The Two-thirty Rain
-
E5 6a 1
84Fir Tree Buttress
-
HS 4a 8
 Sewer Wall 
86Hades Crack
-
VS 4c 6
87Sewer Groove
-
E1 5b 2
88Intercepting Trap
-
E3 6a 1
89Sewer Wall
-
HVS 5a 2
90Sewerside Wall
-
HVS 5a 1
 Greased Lightning Wall 
92Lightning-Fast-Reactions
-
E1 5a 2
93Tumbling Dice
-
E4 5c  
94Greased Lightning Crack
-
HS 4a 2
95The Moon under Water
-
E2 5c 1
96Piton Route Direct FinishE1 5b 1
97The Arete BoulderV1 5

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