Climbs 139
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 125m a.s.l
Faces N

Think Millstone x 2, splitter cracks & an esoteric slant...... © Rich Kirby

Crag features

Hoghton Quarry is probably one of the best gritstone quarries in the north of England. It would certainly not look out of place next to Millstone Edge. However, in recent years, restricted access has meant that it is rather overgrown in places. That said, it is well worth a visit. Slabs, walls and roofs abound and there are still a couple of obvious aid routes knocking around, complete with ancient aid tat. The whole experience is wrapped up in a hidden venue which would probably be quite familiar to Robin Hood. Williness to clean a route and a keen sense of adventure are required by this crag, but those who persist will be totally rewarded.

Approach notes

Access is very restricted. Climbing is only available from the beginning of June until the end of July.

Monday - Thursday until 5pm.

Friday - Sunday until dusk.

Bird restrictions may apply so please check the BMC access database for up-to-date information.

Access is sensitive so please do not climb outside these times.

Access Banned

Access to Hoghton for 2015 has currently not been granted by the De Hoghton Estate due to concerns about tree safety in the quarry. The BMC has been working with the Estate to attempt to address the concerns raised but negotiations are ongoing and are likely to require legal scrutiny, meaning access is likely to be significantly delayed this year. Any updates will be posted to this page as and when and more information becomes available.

Went today. First time at hoghton, it is amazing! Def worth a visit!
D.botts87 - 10/Jun/13
We couldn't find a sensible walk-off so we abseiled which seems a sensible option. We had exactly the opposite experience to that of "r fizzle". The whole place was cleaner than expected and can only improve with a little traffic during the brief access windows.
chrishedgehog - 30/Jul/12
Very dirty and green. I don't think many people have visited this summer. Mandarin looks to be the cleanest route but was still extremely sandy and crumbly and covered in bird poo.
Rachel Slater - 26/Jul/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Lamentably Gentlemanly
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E5 6b ** 
2Getting Rid of the Albatross
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E6 6c *** 
3The Wasp
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HVS 5a **19
4The Sting
-
HVS 5a 4
5Goulash
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E1 5b  
6All Roads Lead to Rome
-
E5 6b ***1
7Boadicea
-
E2 5c ***26
8For God's Sake Burn it Down!
-
E4 6b * 
9Every Face Tells a Story
-
HVS 5b **2
10Thespis
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HVS 4c, 4c *6
11Burning the Phoenix
-
E4 5b, 6a ** 
12Lady
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HVS 4c, 5a *2
13Route One
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VS 4b, 4c **17
14Golden Delicious
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E3 5c, 5c *** 
15Golden Delicious Variation Start
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E3 6a *** 
16The Knickertwister
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E5 6a, 6b ** 
17The Knickertwister Direct Start
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E5 5c, 6b ** 
18On the Brink
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E5 6a, 6b ** 
19Blind Eye
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E5 6c * 
20Let's Go Play
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E5 6a * 
21Ten Minute Traverse
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E3 5b, 5c **4
22Mandarin
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E2 5b,5b ***49
23PatellaE2 5b  
24Twin Spikes
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VD 7
25Groove and Ledge
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S 4a 10
26Blunt Arete
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E1 5b 3
27Slanting Crack
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E1 5b *3
28Partnership
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VS 4c 2
29Main Overhang
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A1 3
30Cave Route
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HS 4b, 4a **25
31Rhododendron Buttress
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E2 5c ***38
32Finger Traverse
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VS 5b *9
33Pandora's Box
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E1 6a 2
34Bowker's Crack
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VS 4c *8
35Speech Impediment
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E2 6b 3
36Cyclops
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VS 4c 1
37Wobbling Groove
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HVS 5b 1
38Easy Route
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D 8
39Easier Route
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D 3
40Overhanging Cack
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HVS 5b, 5a *2
41The Black Tripe Trip
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E4 6b,6a 1
42DrupeE1 5c 4
43The Motorway
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M 2
44Lookout Ridge
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D 2
45Ouzo
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D 2
46Strega
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VD 2
47Advocaat
-
S 4a 3
48Kummel
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S 4a 4
49Tia Maria
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VS 4c 6
50Goldwasser
-
VS 4b *15

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