Climbs 106
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 141m a.s.l
Faces W

Warton Crag Upper © chris taylor

Crag features

Good short routes, and some superb bouldering in the V1 to V7 range with one hard (V11) traverse.

Approach notes

Owned by the RSPB. Group use (particularly by outdoors centres) is not allowed.

This crag is very hard to find the first (or even the second or third) time. It is best reached from the highest point on the Warton to Crag Foot road (GR SD487724). There is a five bar gate (memorial sign on wall adjacent) on the NE side of the road with a small parking spot about 80 metres NW. Follow the track through the gate till it peters out near two old baths. Ignore path continuing to a prominent gate in the same line. Instead, bear right towards a fence about 100m away. From the fence corner go left up a grassy sward to cross a stile through another barbed wire fence. The path leads quickly to a rocky outcrop (bit of wall visible on your right). Go right above the outcrop and contour for about 80m to find a small but well-worn path through dense scrub on your left. This path emerges soon on more open terrain

Did anyone find Aviary Wall? I missed it when I went for a half-hearted search. I went past plum buttress to the Pinnacle. Then I carried on, climbed over a barbed wire fence, went some way before ending up in a big grassy opening surrounded by briars, with a tiny (4ft) outcrop at the top. Any clues much appreciated!
C Witter - 22/Jul/15
does anyone know the climb between deadwood crack and lone tree gully. It is a really nice climb up the rib with good gear on small wires.
daviesxxx - 16/Jun/11
In between the dross there are some great lines worth seeking out on Plum Buttress. Good winters afternoon venue.
lozzer - 11/Dec/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Stile Buttress 
2Stile CornerM 4
3Free Stile
-
HS 4b *39
4JaywalkHVS 5a 2
5Beacon Lighter
-
HVS 5a 18
6Stile Ted Groove
-
VD 46
7Simian
-
VD 46
8Stile-ish Arete
-
S 4a 46
9Which Way
-
VD 32
10Ming
-
S 4a 47
11Wedgewood
-
VD 29
 Mounting Buttress 
13Mounting Block
-
S 4a *31
14Supination
-
VS 4c 20
15Fading Light
-
HVS 5b 6
16Inspired
-
S 4b 28
 Parson's Buttress 
18Far FlungVD 2
19The Verger
-
VD 15
20The Parson's Nose
-
VD 28
21Bish's Tipple
-
S 4a 29
 Plum Buttress 
23The Vine Line
-
HS 5b 21
24Evolutionf6A+ 5
25Masters at Workf6B 15
26Dihedral
-
VS 5a 11
27Dihedral SDSf6A+ 10
28Yosemite Rib
-
VS 5a 10
29Yosemite Rib Direct StartE3 6c 1
30Debaserf7A+ **16
31Debaser LHf7B *10
32The Plumbline
-
E3 6a **10
33The Plumbline (Start)f7A *8
34Plumbasef7B *2
35The Plumbline Traversef7A *14
36Low Traversef6C *1
37The Big Plum
-
HVS 5c *39
38The Big Plum Peach FinishHVS 5a *7
39Sugarfixf6C+ 15
40Sugarfix SDSf7C **7
41Lip Traversef7A+ 1
42E-Fixf7C *9
43Poisonf7C+ *10
44Ebenezer Goodef8A **6
45Goode Poisonf7C+ 4
46Voodoo Peoplef7A+ **11
47Voodoo People SSf7B **17
48The Voodoo Fixf7C 2
49Voodoo Magicf7C *1
50Hoodoo Peoplef6C **33
51Sulu Peoplef6C+ 1
52Lone Tree Variation
-
S 4b *64
53Lone Tree Groove
-
S 4a *134
54NullarborVS 5a *7
55Nullarbor SSf6B 5
56Plum Buttress Girdle
-
HVS 5a *5
 Deadwood Area 
58Deadwood Crack
-
VS 5a 49
59Flake and Wall
-
S 4a 142
60Wart
-
VD 42
61Thrutch
-
VD 70
62The Super Mario TraverseS 4b 1
63The Morning After
-
VS 4c 85
64Fine White Line
-
VS 4c 42
65Herbert's Horror
-
HS 4a 14
66The Mushroom
-
D 66
67Twinkle Ginger BeardV0 2
 Left Walls 
69The Gremp
-
S 4a 47
70Skutch
-
VD 50
71The Grump
-
S 4a 23
72Dollard
-
D 24
73Orbit
-
VS 4c 6
74Triplanetary
-
HS 4b 15
 The Pinnacle 
76Xtravaganza
-
f4+ *3
77Stu's Traversef6C 1
78Weakling's Wall
-
HS 4b 6
79Gear Freak
-
f6C **3
80Totally Focussedf7A *17
81Totally Focussed SSf7A+ *15
82The Pocket Problemf5+ *6
83The Crank
-
E3 6b *1
84The Graunch
-
VS 4c *26
85Muscles Crack
-
HS 4b 31
86The Monkey's Paw
-
HVS 5b *8
87Beastmasterf6C **20
88Bumble Bee
-
S 4a *3
 Aviary Walls 
90Scoop Surprise
-
VD 4
91Head Whip
-
VD 5
92Bird Watcher
-
VS 5a *4
93The Ribulator
-
HS 4c 3
94Cutting Edge
-
VS 4c *1
95Antler Wall
-
VD 3
96Sheilgh's Wall
-
S 4a 2
 Black Buttress 
98Black Russian
-
E2 6a *2
99Black Sheep
-
HVS 5b 5
100Black Magicf6A+ **14
101Black Jack
-
E2 5c 5
102Black Jack SSf6C *1
103Black Lightf7B **7
104Black Light standing startf7A *9
105White Light / Black Light Variationf7A+ **2
106Black Edge
-
HS 4b 2
107Black Holef6C+ 2
108Labyrinthf6C *1
109Beneath the Labyrinthf7B+ *1
 Isolated Wall 
111Quarantine
-
HVS 5a *1
112Seclusion
-
HVS 5a  
113Hermitage
-
VD 1
 Matterhorn Wall 
115Hornli
-
VD 1
116Carrel
-
VD 1
117Whymper
-
VS 5a * 

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