Climbs 115
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 141m a.s.l
Faces W

Warton Crag Upper © chris taylor

Crag features

Good short routes, and some superb bouldering in the V1 to V7 range with one hard (V11) traverse.

Approach notes

This crag is very hard to find the first (or even the second or third) time. It is best reached from the highest point on the Warton to Crag Foot road (GR SD487724). There is a five bar gate (memorial sign on wall adjacent) on the NE side of the road with a small parking spot about 80 metres NW. Follow the track through the gate till it peters out near two old baths. Ignore path continuing to a prominent gate in the same line. Instead, bear right towards a fence about 100m away. From the fence corner go left up a grassy sward to cross a stile through another barbed wire fence. The path leads quickly to a rocky outcrop (bit of wall visible on your right). Go right above the outcrop and contour for about 80m to find a small but well-worn path through dense scrub on your left. This path emerges soon on more open terrain. Bear left and head through some scruffy scrub to find the crag skulking in some trees.

I've found the Aviary Walls, and the other small buttresses. From the Pinnacle, head downhill, into the woods, about a 2 or 3min walk. There are a few climbs that are good (e.g. Cutting Edge, VS) but, apart from the well-frequented Black Buttress, everything's a bit overgrown, especially at the top.
C Witter - 12/May/16
Did anyone find Aviary Wall? I missed it when I went for a half-hearted search. I went past plum buttress to the Pinnacle. Then I carried on, climbed over a barbed wire fence, went some way before ending up in a big grassy opening surrounded by briars, with a tiny (4ft) outcrop at the top. Any clues much appreciated!
C Witter - 22/Jul/15
does anyone know the climb between deadwood crack and lone tree gully. It is a really nice climb up the rib with good gear on small wires.
daviesxxx - 16/Jun/11
In between the dross there are some great lines worth seeking out on Plum Buttress. Good winters afternoon venue.
lozzer - 11/Dec/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Stile Buttress 
2Stile CornerM 4
3Free Stile
-
HS 4b *42
4JaywalkHVS 5a 2
5Beacon Lighter
-
HVS 5a 21
6Stile Ted Groove
-
VD 49
7Simian
-
VD 52
8Stile-ish Arete
-
S 4a 47
9Which Way
-
VD 33
10Ming
-
S 4a 50
11Wedgewood
-
VD 30
12Weather Wearf7A+ *1
13Blunt Aretef6B 1
 Mounting Buttress 
15Mounting Block
-
S 4a *31
16Supination
-
VS 4c 21
17Fading Light
-
HVS 5b 6
18Inspired
-
S 4b 30
 Parson's Buttress 
20Far FlungVD 2
21The Verger
-
VD 15
22The Parson's Nose
-
VD 30
23Bish's Tipple
-
S 4a 34
24Plum Puddingf6B ***2
 Plum Buttress 
26The Vine Line
-
HS 5b 23
27Evolutionf6A+ 6
28Masters at Workf6B 18
29Master of Prowf6C+ **1
30Adora Kioraf6A  
31Dihedral
-
VS 5a 14
32Dihedral SDSf6A+ 14
33Dihedral Traversef6B+ 1
34Yosemite Rib
-
VS 5a 12
35Yosemite Rib Direct StartE3 6c 1
36Debaserf7A+ **19
37Debaser LHf7B *10
38The Plumbline
-
E3 6a **10
39The Plumbline (Start)f7A *9
40Plumbasef7B *2
41The Plumbline Traversef7A *15
42Low Traversef6C *2
43The Big Plum
-
HVS 5c *41
44The Big Plum Peach FinishHVS 5a *8
45Sugarfixf6C+ 18
46Sugarfix SDSf7C **9
47Lip Traversef7A+ 1
48E-Fixf7C *9
49Poisonf7C+ *10
50Ebenezer Goodef8A **7
51Goode Poisonf8A 4
52Voodoo Peoplef7A+ **12
53Voodoo People SSf7B **19
54The Voodoo Fixf7C 2
55Voodoo Magicf7C *1
56Hoodoo Peoplef6C **36
57Sulu Peoplef6C+ 1
58Lone Tree Variation
-
S 4b *72
59Lone Tree Groove
-
S 4a *142
60NullarborVS 5a *7
61Nullarbor SSf6B 7
62Plum Buttress Girdle
-
HVS 5a *5
 Deadwood Area 
64Deadwood Crack
-
VS 5a 53
65Flake and Wall
-
S 4a 147
66Wart
-
VD 47
67Thrutch
-
VD 72
68The Super Mario TraverseS 4b 4
69The Morning After
-
VS 4c 90
70Fine White Line
-
VS 4c 44
71Herbert's Horror
-
HS 4a 15
72The Mushroom
-
D 68
73Twinkle Ginger BeardV0 2
 Left Walls 
75The Gremp
-
S 4a 49
76Skutch
-
VD 56
77The Grump
-
S 4a 26
78Dollard
-
D 27
79Orbit
-
VS 4c 6
80Triplanetary
-
HS 4b 16
 The Pinnacle 
82Xtravaganza
-
f4+ *3
83Stu's Traversef6C 1
84Weakling's Wall
-
HS 4b 7
85Gear Freak
-
f6C **4
86Totally Focussedf7A *18
87Totally Focussed SSf7A+ *15
88The Pocket Problemf5+ *7
89The Crank
-
E3 6b *1
90The Graunch
-
VS 4c *29
91Wall Right of GraunchV3  
92Muscles Crack
-
HS 4b 35
93The Monkey's Paw
-
HVS 5b *8
94Beastmasterf6C **27
95Bumble Bee
-
S 4a *5
96Salita SilvestreVD 1
 Aviary Walls 
98Scoop Surprise
-
VD 4
99Head Whip
-
VD 6
100Bird Watcher
-
VS 5a *4
101The Ribulator
-
HS 4c 4
102Cutting Edge
-
VS 4c *2
103Antler Wall
-
VD 3
104Sheilgh's Wall
-
S 4a 2
 Black Buttress 
106Black Russian
-
E2 6a *4
107Black Sheep
-
HVS 5b 6
108Black Magicf6A+ **17
109Black Jack
-
E2 5c 6
110Black Jack SSf6C *3
111Black Lightf7B **7
112Black Light standing startf7A *9
113White Light / Black Light Variationf7A+ **2
114Black Edge
-
HS 4b 4
115Black Holef6C+ 5
116Labyrinthf6C *1
117Beneath the Labyrinthf7B+ *1
 Isolated Wall 
119Quarantine
-
HVS 5a *1
120Seclusion
-
HVS 5a  
121Hermitage
-
VD 1
 Matterhorn Wall 
123Hornli
-
VD 1
124Carrel
-
VD 1
125Whymper
-
VS 5a * 
126The Octagon f6A+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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