Climbs 113
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 141m a.s.l
Faces W

Warton Crag Upper © chris taylor

Crag features

Good short routes, and some superb bouldering in the V1 to V7 range with one hard (V11) traverse.

Approach notes

Owned by the RSPB. Group use (particularly by outdoors centres) is not allowed.

This crag is very hard to find the first (or even the second or third) time. It is best reached from the highest point on the Warton to Crag Foot road (GR SD487724). There is a five bar gate (memorial sign on wall adjacent) on the NE side of the road with a small parking spot about 80 metres NW. Follow the track through the gate till it peters out near two old baths. Ignore path continuing to a prominent gate in the same line. Instead, bear right towards a fence about 100m away. From the fence corner go left up a grassy sward to cross a stile through another barbed wire fence. The path leads quickly to a rocky outcrop (bit of wall visible on your right). Go right above the outcrop and contour for about 80m to find a small but well-worn path through dense scrub on your left. This path emerges soon on more open terrain

Did anyone find Aviary Wall? I missed it when I went for a half-hearted search. I went past plum buttress to the Pinnacle. Then I carried on, climbed over a barbed wire fence, went some way before ending up in a big grassy opening surrounded by briars, with a tiny (4ft) outcrop at the top. Any clues much appreciated!
C Witter - 22/Jul/15
does anyone know the climb between deadwood crack and lone tree gully. It is a really nice climb up the rib with good gear on small wires.
daviesxxx - 16/Jun/11
In between the dross there are some great lines worth seeking out on Plum Buttress. Good winters afternoon venue.
lozzer - 11/Dec/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Stile Buttress 
2Stile CornerM 4
3Free Stile
HS 4b *41
4JaywalkHVS 5a 2
5Beacon Lighter
HVS 5a 20
6Stile Ted Groove
VD 47
VD 52
8Stile-ish Arete
S 4a 46
9Which Way
VD 32
S 4a 48
VD 29
12Weather Wearf7A+ *1
13Blunt Aretef6B 1
 Mounting Buttress 
15Mounting Block
S 4a *31
VS 4c 21
17Fading Light
HVS 5b 6
S 4b 28
 Parson's Buttress 
20Far FlungVD 2
21The Verger
VD 15
22The Parson's Nose
VD 29
23Bish's Tipple
S 4a 31
 Plum Buttress 
25The Vine Line
HS 5b 23
26Evolutionf6A+ 6
27Masters at Workf6B 17
VS 5a 13
29Dihedral SDSf6A+ 14
30Dihedral Traversef6B+ 1
31Yosemite Rib
VS 5a 11
32Yosemite Rib Direct StartE3 6c 1
33Debaserf7A+ **19
34Debaser LHf7B *10
35The Plumbline
E3 6a **10
36The Plumbline (Start)f7A *9
37Plumbasef7B *2
38The Plumbline Traversef7A *14
39Low Traversef6C *2
40The Big Plum
HVS 5c *41
41The Big Plum Peach FinishHVS 5a *8
42Sugarfixf6C+ 17
43Sugarfix SDSf7C **10
44Lip Traversef7A+ 1
45E-Fixf7C *9
46Poisonf7C+ *10
47Ebenezer Goodef8A **7
48Goode Poisonf8A 4
49Voodoo Peoplef7A+ **12
50Voodoo People SSf7B **18
51The Voodoo Fixf7C 2
52Voodoo Magicf7C *1
53Hoodoo Peoplef6C **34
54Sulu Peoplef6C+ 1
55Lone Tree Variation
S 4b *70
56Lone Tree Groove
S 4a *140
57NullarborVS 5a *7
58Nullarbor SSf6B 7
59Plum Buttress Girdle
HVS 5a *5
 Deadwood Area 
61Deadwood Crack
VS 5a 53
62Flake and Wall
S 4a 144
VD 45
VD 71
65The Super Mario TraverseS 4b 3
66The Morning After
VS 4c 87
67Fine White Line
VS 4c 43
68Herbert's Horror
HS 4a 14
69The Mushroom
D 67
70Twinkle Ginger BeardV0 2
 Left Walls 
72The Gremp
S 4a 48
VD 53
74The Grump
S 4a 24
D 26
VS 4c 6
HS 4b 16
 The Pinnacle 
f4+ *3
80Stu's Traversef6C 1
81Weakling's Wall
HS 4b 7
82Gear Freak
f6C **4
83Totally Focussedf7A *18
84Totally Focussed SSf7A+ *15
85The Pocket Problemf5+ *7
86The Crank
E3 6b *1
87The Graunch
VS 4c *30
88Muscles Crack
HS 4b 35
89The Monkey's Paw
HVS 5b *8
90Beastmasterf6C **31
91Bumble Bee
S 4a *5
 Aviary Walls 
93Scoop Surprise
VD 4
94Head Whip
VD 6
95Bird Watcher
VS 5a *4
96The Ribulator
HS 4c 4
97Cutting Edge
VS 4c *2
98Antler Wall
VD 3
99Sheilgh's Wall
S 4a 2
 Black Buttress 
101Black Russian
E2 6a *3
102Black Sheep
HVS 5b 5
103Black Magicf6A+ **16
104Black Jack
E2 5c 5
105Black Jack SSf6C *2
106Black Lightf7B **7
107Black Light standing startf7A *9
108White Light / Black Light Variationf7A+ **2
109Black Edge
HS 4b 3
110Black Holef6C+ 3
111Labyrinthf6C *1
112Beneath the Labyrinthf7B+ *1
 Isolated Wall 
HVS 5a *1
HVS 5a  
VD 1
 Matterhorn Wall 
VD 1
VD 1
VS 5a * 
121Master of Prow *f6C+ **1
122Plum Pudding *f6B ***2
123Adora Kiora *f6A  
124Salita Silvestre *VD 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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