Warton Pinnacle Crag

Climbs 103 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 141m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Good short routes, and some superb bouldering in the V1 to V7 range with one hard (V11) traverse.

Access notes
Owned by the RSPB. Group use (particularly by outdoors centres) is not allowed.

This crag is very hard to find the first (or even the second or third) time. It is best reached from the highest point on the Warton to Crag Foot road (GR SD487724). There is a five bar gate (memorial sign on wall adjacent) on the NE side of the road with a small parking spot about 80 metres NW. Follow the track through the gate till it peters out near two old baths. Ignore path continuing to a prominent gate in the same line. Instead, bear right towards a fence about 100m away. From the fence corner go left up a grassy sward to cross a stile through another barbed wire fence. The path leads quickly to a rocky outcrop (bit of wall visible on your right). Go right above the outcrop and contour for about 80m to find a small but well-worn path through dense scrub on your left. This path emerges soon on more open terrain – bear left over a bit of sloping limestone pavement. The top of the crag – it lies in a bit of a hollow – may be seen about 100m ahead. The rest is obscured by scrub and trees till you get close. 10 minutes from road if you don’t get lost.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Lancashire Rock (1999), LakesBloc Website

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 STILE BUTTRESS 
2Stile CornerM
3Free StileHS 4b *
4JaywalkHVS 5a
5Beacon LighterHVS 5a
6Stile Ted GrooveVD
7SimianVD
8Stile-ish AreteS 4a
9Which WayVD
10MingS 4a
11WedgewoodVD
 MOUNTING BUTTRESS 
13Mounting BlockS 4a *
14SupinationVS 4c
15Fading LightHVS 5b
16InspiredS 4b
 PARSON'S BUTTRESS 
18Far FlungVD
19The VergerVD
20The Parson's NoseVD
21Bish's TippleS 4a
 PLUM BUTTRESS 
23The Vine LineHS 5b
24Evolutionf6A+
25Masters at Workf6B
26DihedralVS 5a
27Dihedral SDSf6A+
28Yosemite RibVS 5a
29Debaserf7A+ **
30Debaser LHf7B *
31The PlumblineE3 6a **
32The Plumbline (Start)f7A *
33Plumbasef7B *
34The Plumbline Traversef7A *
35The Big PlumHVS 5c *
36The Big Plum Peach FinishHVS 5a *
37Sugarfixf6C+
38Sugarfix SDSf7C **
39Lip Traversef7A+
40E-Fixf7C *
41Poisonf7C+ *
42Ebenezer Goodef8A **
43Goode Poisonf7C+
44Voodoo Peoplef7A+ **
45Voodoo People SSf7B **
46The Voodoo Fixf7C
47Voodoo Magicf7C *
48Hoodoo Peoplef6C **
49Sulu Peoplef6C+
50Lone Tree VariationS 4b *
51Lone Tree GrooveS 4a *
52NullarborVS 5a *
53Nullarbor SSf6B
54Plum Buttress GirdleHVS 5a *
 DEADWOOD AREA 
56Deadwood CrackVS 5a
57Flake and WallS 4a
58WartVD
59ThrutchVD
60The Morning AfterVS 4c
61Fine White LineVS 4c
62Herbert's HorrorHS 4a
63The MushroomD
64Twinkle Ginger BeardV0
 LEFT WALLS 
66The GrempS 4a
67SkutchVD
68The GrumpS 4a
69DollardD
70OrbitVS 4c
71TriplanetaryHS 4b
 THE PINNACLE 
73Xtravaganzaf4+ *
74Stu's Traversef6C
75Weakling's WallHS 4b
76Gear Freakf6C **
77Totally Focussedf7A *
78Totally Focussed SSf7A+ *
79The Pocket Problemf5+ *
80The CrankE3 6b *
81The GraunchVS 4c *
82Muscles CrackHS 4b
83The Monkey's PawHVS 5b *
84Beastmasterf6C **
85Bumble BeeS 4a *
 AVIARY WALLS 
87Scoop SurpriseVD
88Head WhipVD
89Bird WatcherVS 5a *
90The RibulatorHS 4c
91Cutting EdgeVS 4c *
92Antler WallVD
93Sheilgh's WallS 4a
 BLACK BUTTRESS 
95Black RussianE2 6a *
96Black SheepHVS 5b
97Black Magicf6A+ **
98Black JackE2 5c
99Black Lightf7B **
100Black Light standing startf7A *
101Black EdgeHS 4b
102Black Holef6C+
103Labyrinthf6C *
104Beneath the Labyrinthf7B+ *
 ISOLATED WALL 
106QuarantineHVS 5a *
107SeclusionHVS 5a
108HermitageVD
 MATTERHORN WALL 
110HornliVD
111CarrelVD
112WhymperVS 5a *
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
does anyone know the climb between deadwood crack and lone tree gully. It is a really nice climb up the rib with good gear on small wires.
daviesxxx - 16/Jun/11
In between the dross there are some great lines worth seeking out on Plum Buttress. Good winters afternoon venue.
lozzer - 11/Dec/04