Aonach Dubh, East Face

Climbs 90 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude 400m a.s.l – Faces SE

Crag features

The most westerly of the Glencoe Three Sisters has five crags on its East Face all facing south-east. The Lower West Face offers Freakout(E4) and Spacewalk (E5) both Glencoe 3-star classic routes. Barn Wall offers easy climbs and Weeping Wall offers excellent harder routes. Terrace Face contains the classic Archer Ridge a classic 3-star Severe. The uppermost, the Far East Buttress, is more of a walk and so much quieter. It offers some good climbing, including the very pleasant Nirvana Wall (Severe).

Approach notes

Park opposite the lower nose of Gearr Aonach at the lower of the two car parks, and drop down to the path that leads directly across the footbridge and heads steeply uphill towards Stob Coire nan Lochan. A smaller path breaks off to cross the river and reach the foot of the crags (30-40 minutes).

Scottish Winter Climbs (2008), Glen Coe (2001), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2DaredevilE1 5b *1
3Lady JaneE2 5b ***63
4Sir ChancelotE2 5c *29
5Blast-OffE1 5b *1
6LamentS **14
7The ChallengeE3 6a *1
9Rowan Tree WallVD *30
10The FlyE3 5b *7
11SpiderHVS 5a **67
12Spider Right-HandVS 4c ***73
13SolitudeE3 5b ***22
14Short But SweetE2 5c *2
15QuietudeHVS 5a **26
16Weeping Wall RouteS **47
17The Long CrackHS **167
18The Straight ClimbVS 4b **15
19Curving CrackS **92
20Eve's AreteVD **69
21Drainpipe CornerS 13
23Quiver RibD ***175
24Slings & ArrowsHVS 5a 1
25Arrow WallS **39
26Wounded KneeS **25
27Archer RidgeS ***196
28Archer Ridge DirectS **33
29De Vreemde StapHVS 5b **7
30The GutVS 4c *9
31Terrace AreteHS 4b **25
32Two Step AreteVS 4b *2
34TurnspitVS *2
35The Chant Of Jimmy BlacksmithE5 6a *1
36BoomerangHVS 5a **16
37Zodiac MindwarpE7 6c  
38Freak OutE4 6a ***63
39SupernovaE6 6b ***2
40CrocodileE3 6a ***55
41SpacewalkE5 6b **22
42Original RouteS *3
44Rough SlabS 12
45Orient ExpressIV 5 *3
46Eastern SlantIII 4 *21
47Eastern PromiseE1 5b **14
48Nirvana WallHS 4b ***64
49YenVD *3
50Japseye VariationVI 6 *1
51SatoriVS 4b **10
52ShibumiVS 4b **12
53North East NoseD 1
54Farewell AreteVD *12
56BowstringD *42
57Barn Wall RouteM 25
58QuickdrawE1 5b *1
59HesitationHVS 5a **12
60AnonomousS 2
61Lower BowM *16
62Little BoomerangVS 4c 1
63SlowhandM * 
64Bivvy WallE4 5c **4
65No NameVS 5a *2
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Be aware that the SMC topo is incorrect for section of wall with Spider etc on. The descriptions are not quite right either (it mentions going to the belays of certain routes but its not quite right) and the tree is very dead and not visible from the ground.
arose - 25/Apr/15
lots of mistakes on here
submariner - 29/May/12
Curved Crack Severe** and Quiver Rib Diff on the East face - interesing climbs which an even more interesting descent route. Not for the faint hearted!
Angela McGuckin - 16/Oct/06
You can also scramble down and left along the the ledge from the tree. Again, care required.
Jamie B. - 14/Jul/05
The dilapidated tree above Weeping Wall mentioned in the guide for abseiling off (as alternative to top pitch of Spider) looks well dodgy and totally unsuitable for abseiling. Best top out and combine with some great routes above.
Jon Earnshaw - 22/Apr/03