Aonach Dubh, East Face

Climbs 90 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude 400m a.s.l – Faces SE

Crag features
The most westerly of the Glencoe Three Sisters has five crags on its East Face all facing south-east. The Lower West Face offers Freakout(E4) and Spacewalk (E5) both Glencoe 3-star classic routes. Barn Wall offers easy climbs and Weeping Wall offers excellent harder routes. Terrace Face contains the classic Archer Ridge a classic 3-star Severe. The uppermost, the Far East Buttress, is more of a walk and so much quieter. It offers some good climbing, including the very pleasant Nirvana Wall (Severe).

Access notes
Park opposite the lower nose of Gearr Aonach at the lower of the two car parks, and drop down to the path that leads directly across the footbridge and heads steeply uphill towards Stob Coire nan Lochan. A smaller path breaks off to cross the river and reach the foot of the crags (30-40 minutes).

Guidebooks
Scottish Winter Climbs (2008), Glen Coe (2001), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 LOWER WALLS  
2DaredevilE1 5b *1
3Lady JaneE2 5b ***53
4Sir ChancelotE2 5c *26
5Blast-OffE1 5b *1
6LamentS **12
7The ChallengeE3 6a *1
 WEEPING WALL  
9Rowan Tree WallVD *29
10The FlyE3 5b *2
11SpiderHVS 5a **57
12Spider Right-HandVS 4c ***59
13SolitudeE3 5b ***18
14Short But SweetE2 5c *2
15QuietudeHVS 5a **21
16Weeping Wall RouteS **42
17The Long CrackHS **145
18The Straight ClimbVS 4b **13
19Curving CrackS **85
20Eve's AreteVD **59
21Drainpipe CornerS 13
 TERRACE FACE  
23Quiver RibD ***155
24Slings & ArrowsHVS 5a 1
25Arrow WallS **32
26Wounded KneeS **22
27Archer RidgeS ***176
28Archer Ridge DirectS **29
29De Vreemde StapHVS 5b **4
30The GutVS 4c *8
31Terrace AreteHS 4b **21
32Two Step AreteVS 4b *2
 LOWER NORTH-EAST NOSE  
34TurnspitVS *2
35The Chant Of Jimmy BlacksmithE5 6a *1
36BoomerangHVS 5a **15
37Freak OutE4 6a ***58
38SupernovaE6 6b ***2
39CrocodileE3 6a ***49
40SpacewalkE5 6b **22
41Original RouteS *3
 FAR EASTERN BUTTRESS  
43Rough SlabS 11
44Orient ExpressIV 5 *2
45Eastern SlantIII 4 *20
46Eastern PromiseE1 5b **8
47Nirvana WallHS 4b ***52
48YenVD *3
49Japseye VariationVI 6 *1
50SatoriVS 4b **7
51ShibumiVS 4b **8
52North East NoseD 1
53Farewell AreteVD *12
 BARN WALL  
55BowstringD *37
56Barn Wall RouteM 25
57QuickdrawE1 5b *1
58HesitationHVS 5a **8
59AnonomousS 2
60Lower BowM *12
61Little BoomerangVS 4c 1
62Slowhand *M * 
63Bivvy Wall *E4 5c **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Liam Ingram

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
lots of mistakes on here
submariner - 29/May/12
Curved Crack Severe** and Quiver Rib Diff on the East face - interesing climbs which an even more interesting descent route. Not for the faint hearted!
Angela McGuckin - 16/Oct/06
You can also scramble down and left along the the ledge from the tree. Again, care required.
Jamie B. - 14/Jul/05
The dilapidated tree above Weeping Wall mentioned in the guide for abseiling off (as alternative to top pitch of Spider) looks well dodgy and totally unsuitable for abseiling. Best top out and combine with some great routes above.
Jon Earnshaw - 22/Apr/03