Loudoun Hill

Climbs 100 – Rocktype Trachyte – Altitude 210m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
A magnificent landmark towering over the valley with three faces and many three star routes. Central Wall features the Edge (VS), a superb natural arete, offering huge exposure for the grade.

Access notes
Good car parking. Crag is about 400 metres across a small stream. Look for stepping stones near the broken down wall.

Lowland Outcrops (2005),
Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
2Pulpit ChimneyM
3SlingsE4 5c **
4LungeE3 6a ***
5Pulpit CrackHVS 5a **
6Pulpit AreteS ***
8Senile SlabE4 5c
9Amphitheatre AreteD
10Gorse RouteD
11Mantelshelf WallVS 4c **
12ClingE2 5c
13Shattered CornerS 4a
14Frustration WallHS 4b **
15Frustration Wall (RH Finish)VS 5a
16Conclusion WallHS 4b *
17EpitaphVS 4c
18Epitaph VariationE2 5c **
19Coffin ChimneyVS 4b
20Busman's HolidayVS 5a
22Trench DirectVS 4b
23Contortion GrooveVS 4c
24Sadist's GrooveHVS 5a
25ItVS 4c
26Planet XHVS 5a
27Tottering LaybackHS 4b
28Quick SkiveVS 4c **
29ChalksterE2 5c
30Dee's CrackHVS 5a ***
31AutomationE1 5b
32John's LastHVS 5a *
33MessiahE2 5b
34The BelkE1 5b ***
35RingE1 5b *
36StrifeS 4a *
37Rocking Stone GrooveM
38Evening GrooveS 4a
39Slab and GrooveHS 4b
40Cave CrackHVS 4c ***
41The Troll WallE2 5c *
42Hobbit CrackE1 5b *
43Young's StairwayVD
44MurE3 5c **
45Leftover CrackHVS 5a *
47The CatE1 5b
48Original RouteVD
49The Left CrackVD
50The EdgeVS 4c ***
51Foxglove ChimneyS 4a
52The SplitsE1 5b **
53Jackdaw ChimneyVD
54Jackdaw Chimney Direct FinishS 4a
55The VeinVS 4c
56MijS 4a
57LambchopsVS 4b
58The RampartsS *
59Short Term EffectHVS 5a
60Staircase CrackVD
62The Hand TraverseHVS 5a
63Nose RibS 4a
65SuicideHS 4b
66Dusk RouteVD **
68Wall And GrooveS
69The BlitzVS
70SCC WallS
71Breakfast RouteVD
72Boulder SuicideE2 5b
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Someone has scratched "XS" and an arrow pointing up to the right of pulpit crack. A route not mentioned in the guide book? And also WTF!?
Stevie989 - 22/Jul/14
Unfortunately the Ravens nest has fallen from it's ledge, probably due to heavy rain. There seems no sign of them atempting to rebuild it. The climbing restrictions should probably be lifted? Any thoughts?
maxtwomey - 05/Jun/12
Twitchers told me that the Perigrines haven't nested here for a few years though there is a raven nest on the Belk at mo
Badam - 09/Apr/11
Follow the path to the big Wallace monument and cross the Irvine by the bridge. No more stepping stones.
halfaseesaw - 10/Dec/09
well was my first time at louden hill today and only had breif time to fit in the one climb as i had been skiing all day at newmilns ski slope(anyway) done the edge and amn what can you say its awsome even seconding on it got to get back there soon!
georgespeirs - 10/Apr/07
Pulpit Crack is a fine climb ***, but the Edge really is amazing, I haven't seen anything in the UK like it, so yes, I agreee with Kinley.
jonnie3430 - 22/Dec/06
Err, it's good but if you think they are two of the best VS's in the UK then you need to travel a bit more!
Dave Kerr - 13/Oct/06
Massively underrated crag. Two of the best VS in the UK (Pulpit crack and The Flake), great views, superb location and a good pub.
Kinley - 26/Jun/05
Some nice mid grade climbs, perfect for a lazy summer afternoon. Foxglove chimney and strife are both particular favourites.
john - 25/Oct/04
The bird loving cop from Strathaven is an ex-Royal Marine Commando, and Strathclyde Police MRT member, as well as a really nice guy,- so I'd do as he say's if I were you! :-)
Davy Virdee - 06/May/04
Beware of a bird loving cop from Strathaven, who will try and keep you off the hill, whether walking or climbing. According to the MCofS, only a few routes to the sides of the nest should not be climbed on, other than this there is nothing to stop you climbing there.
Iain - 07/Nov/02
At the moment [June 02] a pair of peregrine falcons are nesting on one of the faces of the crag with young chicks. There are also a large amount of \"twitchers\" in the car park with telescopes etc who will try their utmost to discourage you from climbing on that wall. There are plenty of routes still available
stuart - 14/Jun/02
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 06/Jun/2013

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