Loudoun Hill

Climbs 100 – Rocktype Trachyte – Altitude 210m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
A magnificent landmark towering over the valley with three faces and many three star routes. Central Wall features the Edge (VS), a superb natural arete, offering huge exposure for the grade.

Approach notes
Good car parking. Crag is about 400 metres across a small stream. Look for stepping stones near the broken down wall.

Lowland Outcrops (2005),
Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Pulpit ChimneyM 68
3SlingsE4 5c **13
4LungeE3 6a ***41
5Pulpit CrackHVS 5a **254
6Pulpit Crack DirectE1 5b 1
7Pulpit AreteS ***407
9Senile SlabE4 5c 5
10Amphitheatre AreteD 85
11Gorse RouteD 34
12Mantelshelf WallVS 4c **134
13ClingE2 5c 9
14Shattered CornerS 4a 107
15Frustration WallHS 4b **250
16Frustration Wall (RH Finish)VS 5a 49
17Conclusion WallHS 4b *150
18EpitaphVS 4c 116
19Epitaph VariationE2 5c **128
20Coffin ChimneyVS 4b 19
21Busman's HolidayVS 5a 19
23Trench DirectVS 4b 7
24Contortion GrooveVS 4c 4
25Sadist's GrooveHVS 5a 16
26ItVS 4c 1
27Planet XHVS 5a 1
28Tottering LaybackHS 4b 10
29Quick SkiveVS 4c **49
30ChalksterE2 5c 28
31Dee's CrackHVS 5a ***93
32AutomationE1 5b 13
33Automation Eliminate E2 5c *1
34John's LastHVS 5a *8
35MessiahE2 5b 3
36The BelkE1 5b ***186
37RingE1 5b *12
38StrifeS 4a *105
39Rocking Stone GrooveM 10
40Evening GrooveS 4a 14
41Slab and GrooveHS 4b 16
42Cave CrackHVS 4c ***117
43The Troll WallE2 5c *3
44Hobbit CrackE1 5b *9
45Young's StairwayVD 33
46MurE3 5c **5
47Leftover CrackHVS 5a *6
49The CatE1 5b 2
50Original RouteVD 20
51The Left CrackVD 25
52The EdgeVS 4c ***161
53Foxglove ChimneyS 4a 30
54The SplitsE1 5b **44
55Jackdaw ChimneyVD 30
56Jackdaw Chimney Direct FinishS 4a 8
57The VeinVS 4c 1
58MijS 4a 5
59LambchopsVS 4b 1
60The RampartsS *36
61Short Term EffectHVS 5a  
62Staircase CrackVD 4
64The Hand TraverseHVS 5a 4
65Nose RibS 4a 5
67SuicideHS 4b 5
68Dusk RouteVD **15
69SpitfireS 6
70Wall And GrooveS 5
71The BlitzVS 1
72SCC WallS 2
73Breakfast RouteVD 1
74Boulder SuicideE2 5b  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer victim of mathematics

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Someone has scratched "XS" and an arrow pointing up to the right of pulpit crack. A route not mentioned in the guide book? And also WTF!?
Stevie989 - 22/Jul/14
Unfortunately the Ravens nest has fallen from it's ledge, probably due to heavy rain. There seems no sign of them atempting to rebuild it. The climbing restrictions should probably be lifted? Any thoughts?
maxtwomey - 05/Jun/12
Twitchers told me that the Perigrines haven't nested here for a few years though there is a raven nest on the Belk at mo
Badam - 09/Apr/11
Follow the path to the big Wallace monument and cross the Irvine by the bridge. No more stepping stones.
halfaseesaw - 10/Dec/09
well was my first time at louden hill today and only had breif time to fit in the one climb as i had been skiing all day at newmilns ski slope(anyway) done the edge and amn what can you say its awsome even seconding on it got to get back there soon!
georgespeirs - 10/Apr/07
Pulpit Crack is a fine climb ***, but the Edge really is amazing, I haven't seen anything in the UK like it, so yes, I agreee with Kinley.
jonnie3430 - 22/Dec/06
Err, it's good but if you think they are two of the best VS's in the UK then you need to travel a bit more!
Dave Kerr - 13/Oct/06
Massively underrated crag. Two of the best VS in the UK (Pulpit crack and The Flake), great views, superb location and a good pub.
Kinley - 26/Jun/05
Some nice mid grade climbs, perfect for a lazy summer afternoon. Foxglove chimney and strife are both particular favourites.
john - 25/Oct/04
The bird loving cop from Strathaven is an ex-Royal Marine Commando, and Strathclyde Police MRT member, as well as a really nice guy,- so I'd do as he say's if I were you! :-)
Davy Virdee - 06/May/04
Beware of a bird loving cop from Strathaven, who will try and keep you off the hill, whether walking or climbing. According to the MCofS, only a few routes to the sides of the nest should not be climbed on, other than this there is nothing to stop you climbing there.
Iain - 07/Nov/02
At the moment [June 02] a pair of peregrine falcons are nesting on one of the faces of the crag with young chicks. There are also a large amount of \"twitchers\" in the car park with telescopes etc who will try their utmost to discourage you from climbing on that wall. There are plenty of routes still available
stuart - 14/Jun/02