Remote cliff with tedious approaches from any direction. Long mountaineering type routes. Climbers may wish to consider carrying pegs and hammers - some stances are hard to protect, and in-situ pegs may have rusted away. Difficult route-finding, and descent almost always hard and eventful. North-facing, almost always wet. Not the place for those seeking safe 'sport' climbing.
Routes to 250 metres.
'Easiest', as in least strenuous, approach from Gerlan (SH634665), above Bethesda. A narrow surfaced road leads to the uppermost bridge over Afon Llafar to Ty-slatters and the water treatment works, here is the start of the path. However, getting to this point involves some tricky navigation.
On entering Bethesda from the Ogwen Valley take the first turning on the right (SH626660); this is Braichmelyn. Continue along the road and over a bridge, then go steeply leftwards to a junction. Turn sharply right and continue along a narrow road to aPost Office and chapel; park here.
Walk along the farmland to where the road drops down to a small bridge over Afon Caseg. It then rises back up to reach a fork. Take the right hand path to reach the bridge over Afon Llafar. Cross this and then bear left to reach the water treatment works. A stile immediately right of the cates takes one around the water treatment works to a ruined farm and an ancient trackway leading over an ancient bridge to a stile. Marshy anclosures give access to open moorland and the mouth of the Cwm Llafar valley where a better track is attained. This follows the SW bank of the Afon Llafar to a point Beyond Llech Dhu, where it peters out alltogether. An ill-defined path then leads into the upper cwm. Boulder screes and water-logged ground provide options leading to the final steep incline.
|6||Eastern Gully||III 3 *||61|
|8||Pyramid Gully||IV 5 **||57|
|9||Jacob's Ladder||V 5 *||1|
|10||Pyramid Face Direct||V 6 **|
|11||Pyramid Buttress||IV *||4|
|12||Central Gully||III 4 **||29|
|13||The July Crisis||V 5 *||3|
|14||Scimitar Hill||V 5 **|
|15||Yr Arianrhod||VI 6 **|
|17||Hedd Wyn||VII 6 ***||3|
|18||Tora Bora||VIII 8 ***||3|
|19||Anzac||VI 6 *|
|21||Passchendale Direct||V 5 **||6|
|22||Flanders||VII 7 **||7|
|23||Flanders Summer LIne||VII 8 **||2|
|24||Western Gully||V 6 ***||46|
|25||Poppies||VI 6 *||1|
|26||Bird song||VI 6 **|
|27||Arctic Fox||V 5 **||4|
|28||The Battle Of The Bulge||VII 6 **||1|
|29||Cannon Rib, VII, 6/7||VII 7 ***||2|
|30||The Polar Bear||VI 6 **|
|31||The Somme||V 5 ***||6|
|32||Post War||VI 5 *|
|33||Scott Report||VII 7/8 ***||1|
|34||Icefall Gully||IV 4 *||28|
|36||Swerving The Follow Through||IV 5 *||1|
|37||Pagan Daughter *||VI 6 *||1|
|38||Sarajevo *||VI 6 *||1|
|39||ATC *||IV 4 *||1|
|40||Icefall Gully Left Hand *||IV 4 **||1|
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|The walk in to this place is something else- or at least it was the way we did it! Crossing the boulder fields towards the East was a test of endurance in itself, possibly harder because of the powder snow alowing you to fall though so easliy. And we crossed similar terrain coming down on the Western end. Phew! Not for the faint hearted!|
Ander - 02/Mar/04