Eldorado Canyon

Climbs 300 – Rocktype Conglomerate – Altitude 1600m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
A glorious conglomerate sandstone canyon offering routes of all lengths and difficulties. Variety of feature and hue of rock abound.

The Bastille is the first crag on the left as you enter, right on the road.

Wind Tower and Whale's Tail are just opposite, with lots of classic easy/moderate routes.

The great central cliff is known as the Redgarden Wall.

The West Ridge is to the west of Redgarden.

For Supremacy follow the dirtroad past The Bastille for about half a mile.

The current guide book lists 14 crags and 1500+ routes.

Approach notes
South from Boulder or north from Golden on CO 93, then west on CO 170. Drive through Eldorado Springs, then into Eldorado Canyon State Park. The park is day use only. Entry lis currently $8 per car, or a one year Colorado State Parks pass is available for $70. Closures of various climbs may be in effect from time to time to protect nesting raptors. These closures are posted at the entrance.

Eldorado Canyon: A Climbing Guide (2010), Rock Climbing Eldorado Canyon (2000)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Northcutt Variation5.10d 6a **3
3Outer Space5.10b 5b, 5b ***6
4Bastille Crack5.7 4c ***23
5Blind Faith5.10a ***4
6March of Dimes5.10c 5c *1
7Werk Supp5.9 5a, 5b **8
9Kinnder Rooten5.9 * 
11Scotch 'N' Soda5.11b 6a * 
12West Overhang5.7 *3
13Wind Ridge5.6 ***8
14Recon5.5 **3
15Southeast Chimney5.3 ** 
16Tigger Plus5.8 **1
17The Bomb5.3 ** 
18Breezy5.5 *1
19Calypso5.6 *6
20Tagger5.10c 5c *4
24Grandmother's Challenge5.10c 5b **2
25Rewritten5.7 *6
26The Great Zot5.7 *2
27Swanson Arete5.5 **1
28Icarus5.6 **1
29Long John Wall5.8 **2
30Washington Irving5.6 *1
31Morning Thunder5.9 *1
32Touch 'N' Go5.9 5b ***6
33Anthill Direct5.8 ***6
34Anthill Direct variations5.10a 2
35The Naked Edge5.11b 5c,6a ***4
36Upper Ruper5.8 ***1
37Ruper5.8 ***3
38The Bulge5.7 **3
40Pony Express5.11a 6a **1
41Mescaline5.8 1
42Dandi- Line5.7  
43Break On Thru5.10c 5c * 
44Sister Morphine5.9 *1
45Sooberb5.10c * 
46Chianti5.8 * 
48Gambit5.8 **1
49The Mountaineers' Route5.5 *1
50Tiger balm Arete5.11b ** 
57Red Dihedral5.12d ***1
58Lower Triagonal5.9 * 
59Yellow Traverse5.9 *1
60Black Jack5.9  
61The Metamorphosis5.8 **1
62Kings X5.10c **2
63Disguise5.9 ** 
64Left Out5.8 ** 
65The Uplift5.10b * 
66Across The River From Butt Hair5.8  
67Dead On Arrival5.11b 6a * 
68Cinch Crack5.12d 6c ** 
69Tombstone5.11a 5c *1
70Rush Buick5.6 * 
71Self - Abuse5.9 * 
72Roof's Way5.10b ** 
73Stay Hungry5.10b  
75Crystal Graze5.8  
76Howard Placebo5.6  
77Siberian Khatru5.8  
78Peter's Out5.5  
79East Face5.1 * 
80Dihedral Two5.8  
81Dirty Sam5.8  
82Spoof5.9 * 
83Clementine5.2 * 
84Kid's Climb5.8 * 
86West Face, Right5.3 ** 
87West Face, Left5.2 ** 
88Jack The Ripper5.9 *1
89Marie Antoinette5.9  
90Wide Country5.11b 6a, 6a ***4
91X-M5.10b 5b,5b, **4
92The Northwest Corner5.11a 6a ***2
93Rain5.10b *1
94West Buttress5.10b 5c **8
95Hair City5.9 ***4
96West Face5.10d 5c *1
97West Arete5.8 *1
98West Side5.6 * 
99Breakfast In Bed5.8 * 
100Out To Lunge5.9 **1
101Neon Lights5.11b  
103Serengheti Spaghetti5.10b  
104Nursery Cryme5.10d  
106East Overhang5.11b  
107Balance of Terror5.9  
108Genuine Risk5.11a  
109The Whittle Wall5.7 ** 
110Shades of Gray5.9  
111Dessert5.8 ** 
112Backtalk5.10c 5c **1
113Black Walk5.10c 5c **1
114A Breed Apart5.11b 6a  
115Night5.10b * 
117Pseudo Sidetrack5.4 ***1
118The Anthill5.5 ** 
119Whistle Stop5.7 *1
120The Flakes5.7 1
121C'Est La Morte5.9 5a *2
122C'Est La Vie5.11b 6a/b **8
123Desdichado5.13c 6c ** 
124Boomerang5.11c 6a **1
125Genesis5.12c 6c *** 
126Genesis 1974 version5.11a 6a ***4
127Leviticus5.12c 6b,  
128Book of Numbers5.13b * 
129Breezy5.4 1
130Redguard Route5.7 **2
131Redguard Route variations5.9  
132Variation To The Lower Meadow5.6 ** 
133Diving Board5.10d 5c ** 
134Centaur5.12d 6c * 
135Bolt To Glory6a+ *1
136Neurasthenia5.11a 6a  
137The Old Bad Aid Crack5.10b * 
138Young, Good, Free Face5.10d  
139King Tut5.9  
140Fools Burn5.10b  
141T-25.10c 5c ***3
142Jules Verne5.11a 6a,6a ***2
143Lene's Dream5.11b * 
144Private Idaho5.12a  
145The Clever Lever5.12a  
147Kloeberdanz5.11a *2
148Guenese5.11c 6a **3
149Fire and Ice5.12a 6b ** 
150Psycho5.12d ** 
151Downpresser Man5.12b 6b * 
152Wasabe5.12c 6b * 
153Evangeline5.11b 6a *2
154Temporary Like Achilles5.10b 5b **3
155The Green Dihedral5.7 ***1
156Scary Canary5.12b *1
157Dangerous Aquaintances5.11d  
158Wisdom5.11d ** 
159Le Toit5.11b **1
160Tan Sock LineM  
161True Confessions5.10b  
162Rosy Crucifixion5.10c 5b ***9
163Wild Kingdom5.11a **1
164Predator5.12b ** 
165Deception Passed5.9  
166Rover5.11b * 
167Grand Giraffe5.9 ***1
168Art's Spar5.10b *1
169Superslab5.10c 5c,5c ***5
170Doub-Griffith Route5.11c ** 
171Electric Aunt Jemima5.10c  
172Breakfast of Champions5.10c 2
173Captain Crunch5.12d 6c  
174The Slimy Spoon5.8 * 
175Velvet Hammer5.9  
176The West Face Of The Lower Ramp5.1 * 
177Direct Start to Superslab5.12c * 
179Vertigo Direct (Mr Olympia)5.8 *1
180Mickey Mouse Die-Rect5.11b  
181Vertigo5.11b ***3
182Vertigo Direct Finish5.11b 6a ***2
183Mickey Mouse Nail-Up5.9 * 
184In Between5.10b  
185Pigeon Crack5.8 * 
186Psychosis5.10b ** 
188Mellow Yellow5.7 * 
189Love Minus Zero5.11b * 
190Le Void5.11b  
191Avoid5.8 * 
192The Serpent5.10c * 
193Alice In Bucketland5.8 ** 
194Upper Grand Giraffe5.6 ** 
195The Italian Arete5.9 ** 
196Chockstone Chimney5.6 * 
197Body Tremors5.7 ** 
198E.L.5.7 ** 
199Exit Stage Left5.3 * 
200The Dirty Deed5.4 * 
201Green Spur5.9 **5
202Darkness Til Dawn5.10a **3
203Green Slab Direct5.9 ** 
204The Colour of Pomegranates5.12c  
205Silver Raven5.11c * 
206The Grand Course5.10a ** 
207Disappearing Act5.11a 5c,6a ** 
208Lost In Space5.7 * 
209Roof Wall5.9 * 
210Northumberland Crack5.8 * 
212Roadside Attraction5.10b  
213First Unknown5.9  
215Blues Power5.12b  
216Blind Mouse5.8  
217Wing Shot5.11b  
218Allosaur5.9 5b *3
219The Initial Route5.8 * 
220Super Scooper5.9 * 
221Crow's Landing5.10b  
222Verschneidung Dihedral5.6 *1
223Clear A Sill5.9 * 
224The White Rabbit5.9  
225Cruisin' For Burgers5.10b 5c *1
226Cut The Cheese5.9 ** 
227The Unsaid5.9 * 
228Next To Nearly5.10a 5c  
229Sunshine Wall5.8  
230Weevil's Walk5.10b * 
232Sequential5.12a * 
233Ignominity5.9 *1
234Court Jester5.10b  
235The Human Factor5.11d  
236Quiet Desperation5.11c  
237Side Wall5.11a * 
238False Prophet5.11d  
239Practise Climb 1015.10d 5c * 
240Bloke On The Side5.9 1
241Chick On The Side5.9 *1
242Hyperspace Roundup5.12d  
243The Mail Ridge5.9 * 
244Handcracker5.10a 1
245Handcracker Direct5.10d * 
246Dead Letter Department5.8 * 
247Drug Abuse5.9  
248Iron Horse5.11a * 
249Zip Code5.11b * 
250Air Mail5.9  
251Cold Turkey5.9 * 
252Working Class Hero5.9  
253Highway 695.9  
254Positively Fourth Street5.9 5b * 
255Lunar Lander5.8  
256Doctor Michael Solar5.7  
257Inverted V5.8  
258Pins And Needles5.10d  
259Crazy Fingers5.12a * 
260Foxtrot5.11d * 
261Parallels5.11c * 
262Lady Fingers5.7  
263River of Darkness5.7  
264Handcrack5.9 1
265Terminal Velocity5.11a 5c ** 
266Duh Dihedral5.6 * 
267Fine Line5.9 1
268Pool of Blood5.9 * 
269The Formula5.11d 6a *1
271Hang Ten5.8  
275Kubla Khan5.11b  
276Xanadu5.9 2
277Parlez Vous Hangdog5.12b  
278Purple Haze5.9 *1
279Joke Crack5.11b  
280Chockstone5.10b *2
281Knight's Move5.7 * 
283Fading Light5.9  
284Muscular Dystrophy5.10b  
285Bushwack Crack5.8  
286Sirens of Titan5.9 * 
287The Potato ChipM  
289Moriarty's Revenge5.10a * 
290The Tail5.9 * 
291Missing Link5.11a  
292Mrs Clean Get's Down5.11b 6a  
293Cro Magnum5.10a  
294White lightning5.10a **1
295Laughing at the moon5.10c ***1
296Prince Of Darkness5.11a **1
297Five-ten Crack5.10a ***1
298Over The Hill5.10b ***2
300Forbidden Planet5.11b ***1
301Sunrider5.11d ***1
302West Dihedral5.4 1
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