Climbs 300
Rocktype Conglomerate
Altitude 1600m a.s.l
Faces all

Amazing. © Matt K Kelley Photography

Crag features

A glorious conglomerate sandstone canyon offering routes of all lengths and difficulties. Variety of feature and hue of rock abound.

The Bastille is the first crag on the left as you enter, right on the road.

Wind Tower and Whale's Tail are just opposite, with lots of classic easy/moderate routes.

The great central cliff is known as the Redgarden Wall.

The West Ridge is to the west of Redgarden.

For Supremacy follow the dirtroad past The Bastille for about half a mile.

The current guide book lists 14 crags and 1500+ routes.

Approach notes

South from Boulder or north from Golden on CO 93, then west on CO 170. Drive through Eldorado Springs, then into Eldorado Canyon State Park. The park is day use only. Entry lis currently $8 per car, or a one year Colorado State Parks pass is available for $70. Closures of various climbs may be in effect from time to time to protect nesting raptors. These closures are posted at the entrance.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Bastille 
2March of Dimes5.10c 5c *1
3Werk Supp5.9 5a, 5b **8
4Marie Antoinette5.9  
5Northcutt Variation5.10d 6a **3
6Bastille Crack5.7 4c ***32
7Wide Country5.11b 6a, 6a ***4
8Outer Space5.10b 5b, 5b ***7
9The Northwest Corner
-
5.11a 6a ***2
10X-M5.10b 5b,5b, **4
11Rain5.10b *1
12West Buttress5.10b 5c **9
13Hair City5.9 ***6
14West Face
-
5.10d 5c *2
15West Arete
-
5.8 *1
16West Side5.6 * 
17Blind Faith5.10a ***5
18Breakfast In Bed5.8 * 
19Out To Lunge5.9 **2
20Neon Lights5.11b  
21Voodoo
-
5.8  
22Serengheti Spaghetti
-
5.10b  
23Nursery Cryme
-
5.10d  
24Tarzan
-
5.10c  
 The Rotwand 
26Kinnder Rooten5.9 * 
 Wind Tower 
 Southwest Face of Wind Tower 
29Breezy
-
5.5 *2
30Wind Ridge
-
5.6 ***10
31Recon5.5 **4
32Tigger Plus5.8 **1
33Across The River From Butt Hair5.8  
34Tagger5.10c 5c *4
35Calypso
-
5.6 *11
36Reggae5.8 ***3
37The Bomb
-
5.3 **1
38West Overhang
-
5.7 *3
 South Face of Wind Tower 
40Lower Triagonal5.9 * 
41Yellow Traverse5.9 *1
42Black Jack5.9  
43Scotch 'N' Soda
-
5.11b 6a * 
44Kings X
-
5.10c **2
45Southeast Chimney5.3 ** 
46The Metamorphosis
-
5.8 **1
47Disguise5.9 ** 
48Left Out5.8 ** 
49The Uplift5.10b * 
 Hawk-Eagle Ridge 
51Dead On Arrival5.11b 6a * 
52Cinch Crack5.12d 6c ** 
53Tombstone5.11a 5c *1
54Rush Buick5.6 * 
55Self - Abuse5.9 * 
56Roof's Way5.10b ** 
57Stay Hungry
-
5.10b  
58Devo
-
5.8  
59Crystal Graze
-
5.8  
60Howard Placebo
-
5.6  
61Siberian Khatru
-
5.8  
62Peter's Out5.5  
 The Whale's Tale 
64East Face5.1 * 
65Jack The Ripper5.9 *1
66Spoof5.9 * 
67Dihedral Two5.8  
68Dirty Sam5.8  
69West Dihedral
-
5.4 1
70West Face, Left5.2 ** 
71West Face, Right5.3 ** 
72Clementine5.2 * 
73Kid's Climb5.8 * 
74Buffoon5.10b  
 Red Garden Wall 
76Grandmother's Challenge5.10c 5b **2
77Rewritten
-
5.7 *6
78The Great Zot
-
5.7 *2
79Swanson Arete5.5 **1
80Icarus5.6 **1
81Washington Irving5.6 *1
82Morning Thunder5.9 *1
83Touch 'N' Go5.9 5b ***6
84Anthill Direct
-
5.8 ***6
85Anthill Direct variations5.10a 2
86The Naked Edge5.11b 5c,6a ***6
87Alice In Bucketland
-
5.8 ** 
88Upper Ruper
-
5.8 ***1
89Ruper
-
5.8 ***3
90The Bulge5.7 **3
91East Overhang5.11b  
92Balance of Terror5.9  
93Genuine Risk
-
5.11a  
94The Whittle Wall5.7 ** 
95Shades of Gray
-
5.9  
96Dessert5.8 ** 
97Backtalk5.10c 5c **1
98Black Walk5.10c 5c **1
99A Breed Apart
-
5.11b 6a  
100Night5.10b * 
101Tonight
-
5.9  
102Pseudo Sidetrack5.4 ***1
103The Anthill5.5 ** 
104Whistle Stop
-
5.7 *1
105The Flakes
-
5.7 1
106C'Est La Morte5.9 5a *2
107C'Est La Vie5.11b 6a/b **8
108Desdichado5.13c 6c ** 
109Le Boomerang5.11c 6a **1
110Genesis5.12c 6c *** 
111Genesis 1974 version5.11a 6a ***4
112Leviticus
-
5.12c 6b,  
113Book of Numbers
-
5.13b * 
114Redguard Route5.7 **2
115Redguard Route variations5.9  
116Variation To The Lower Meadow5.6 ** 
117Centaur
-
5.12d 6c * 
118Diving Board5.10d 5c ** 
119Bolting For Glory6a+ *1
120Neurasthenia5.11a 6a  
121The Old Bad Aid Crack5.10b * 
122Young, Good, Free Face5.10d  
123T-25.10c 5c ***3
124Fools Burn5.10b  
125King Tut
-
5.9  
126Jules Verne5.11a 6a,6a ***2
127Lene's Dream5.11b * 
128The Clever Lever
-
5.12a  
129Private Idaho
-
5.12a  
130Guokatron
-
5.12c  
131Kloeberdanz
-
5.11a *2
132Guenese
-
5.11c 6a **3
133Fire and Ice
-
5.12a 6b ** 
134Psycho5.12d ** 
135Downpresser Man5.12b 6b * 
136Wasabe5.12c 6b * 
137Evangeline5.11b 6a *2
 West Ridge 
139Pony Express5.11a 6a **1
140Mescaline
-
5.8 1
141Dandi- Line
-
5.7  
142Long John Wall5.8 **2
143Break On Thru5.10c 5c * 
144Sister Morphine
-
5.9 *1
145Sooberb5.10c * 
146Chianti
-
5.8 * 
147The Mail Ridge5.9 * 
148Handcracker5.10a 1
149Handcracker Direct
-
5.10d * 
150Dead Letter Department5.8 * 
151Drug Abuse
-
5.9  
152Iron Horse
-
5.11a * 
153Zip Code5.11b * 
154Air Mail5.9  
155Cold Turkey5.9 * 
156Working Class Hero
-
5.9  
157Highway 61
-
5.9  
158Positively Fourth Street5.9 5b * 
159Lunar Lander
-
5.8  
160Doctor Michael Solar5.7  
161Inverted V
-
5.8  
162Pins And Needles
-
5.10d  
163Crazy Fingers
-
5.12a * 
164Foxtrot
-
5.11d * 
165Parallels
-
5.11c * 
166Lady Fingers
-
5.7  
167River of Darkness
-
5.7  
168White Lightning5.10a 1
169Terminal Velocity
-
5.11a 5c ** 
170Duh Dihedral5.6 * 
171Fine Line
-
5.9 1
172Pool of Blood5.9 * 
173The Formula
-
5.11d 6a *1
174Kashmir
-
5.11d  
175Hang Ten
-
5.8  
176Whiplash
-
5.10b  
177Triptych
-
5.10c  
178Tanqueray
-
5.11b  
179Kubla Khan
-
5.11b  
180Xanadu5.9 2
181Parlez Vous Hangdog
-
5.12b  
182Purple Haze5.9 *1
183Joke Crack
-
5.11b  
184Chockstone5.10b *2
185Knight's Move5.7 * 
186Jericho5.11b  
187Fading Light
-
5.9  
188Muscular Dystrophy5.10b  
189Bushwack Crack5.8  
190Sirens of Titan5.9 * 
191White lightning
-
5.10a **1
192Laughing at the moon
-
5.10c ***1
193Prince Of Darkness
-
5.11a **1
194Waterline5.11b  
195Roadside Attraction5.10b  
196First Unknown
-
5.9  
197Flyback
-
5.9  
198Blues Power5.12b  
199Blind Mouse
-
5.8  
200Wing Shot5.11b  
201Allosaur5.9 5b *3
202The Initial Route5.8 * 
203Super Scooper5.9 * 
204Crow's Landing5.10b  
205Verschneidung Dihedral5.6 *1
206Clear A Sill5.9 * 
207The White Rabbit
-
5.9  
208Cruisin' For Burgers5.10b 5c *1
209Cut The Cheese5.9 ** 
210The Unsaid5.9 * 
211Next To Nearly5.10a 5c  
212Sunshine Wall
-
5.8  
213Weevil's Walk5.10b * 
214Kloof
-
5.11b  
215Sequential
-
5.12a * 
216Ignominity5.9 *1
217Court Jester
-
5.10b  
218The Human Factor
-
5.11d  
219Quiet Desperation
-
5.11c  
220Side Wall5.11a * 
221False Prophet
-
5.11d  
222Practise Climb 1015.10d 5c * 
223Bloke On The Side
-
5.9 1
224Chick On The Side5.9 *1
225Hyperspace Roundup
-
5.12d  
 Shirt Tail Peak/Potato Chip 
227Gambit5.8 **1
228The Mountaineers' Route5.5 *1
229Tiger balm Arete
-
5.11b ** 
230The Potato ChipM  
231Jabberwalk5.8  
232Moriarty's Revenge5.10a * 
233The Tail5.9 * 
234Missing Link
-
5.11a  
235Mrs Clean Get's Down
-
5.11b 6a  
236Cro Magnum
-
5.10a  
 Rincon Wall 
238Center crack5.11a pg ***1
239Five Ten Crack5.10a pg ***2
240Five eight crack5.8 pg13 **1
241Over The Hill
-
5.10b ***3
 Peanuts 
243Sunrider
-
5.11d ***1
244Forbidden Planet
-
5.11b ***1
 Mickey Mouse Wall 
246Red Dihedral5.12d ***1
247Temporary Like Achilles5.10b 5b **3
248The Green Dihedral
-
5.7 ***1
249Scary Canary5.12b *1
250Dangerous Aquaintances5.11d  
251Wisdom5.11d ** 
252Le Toit
-
5.11b **1
253Tan Sock Line
-
M  
254True Confessions5.10b  
255Rosy Crucifixion5.10c 5b ***9
256Wild Kingdom
-
5.11a **1
257Predator
-
5.12b ** 
258Deception Passed5.9  
259Rover5.11b * 
260Grand Giraffe
-
5.9 ***1
261Art's Spar
-
5.10b *1
262Superslab5.10c 5c,5c ***6
263Doub-Griffith Route5.11c ** 
264Electric Aunt Jemima5.10c  
265Breakfast of Champions
-
5.10c 2
266Captain Crunch
-
5.12d 6c  
267The Slimy Spoon
-
5.8 * 
268Velvet Hammer
-
5.9  
269The West Face Of The Lower Ramp
-
5.1 * 
270Direct Start to Superslab5.12c * 
271Blow-Hard
-
5.9  
272Vertigo Direct (Mr Olympia)5.8 *1
273Mickey Mouse Die-Rect
-
5.11b  
274Vertigo5.11b ***3
275Vertigo Direct Finish5.11b 6a ***2
276Mickey Mouse Nail-Up
-
5.9 * 
277In Between5.10b  
278Pigeon Crack5.8 * 
279Psychosis5.10b ** 
280Neurosis
-
5.10b  
281Mellow Yellow
-
5.7 * 
282Love Minus Zero
-
5.11b * 
283Le Void
-
5.11b  
284Avoid5.8 * 
285The Serpent
-
5.10c * 
286Upper Grand Giraffe
-
5.6 ** 
287The Italian Arete5.9 ** 
288Chockstone Chimney
-
5.6 * 
289Body Tremors5.7 ** 
290E.L.5.7 ** 
291Exit Stage Left5.3 * 
292The Dirty Deed
-
5.4 * 
293Green Spur5.9 **5
294Darkness Til Dawn5.10a **3
295Green Slab Direct
-
5.9 ** 
296The Colour of Pomegranates
-
5.12c  
297Silver Raven
-
5.11c * 
298The Grand Course5.10a ** 
299Disappearing Act5.11a 5c,6a ** 
300Lost In Space5.7 * 
301Roof Wall
-
5.9 * 
302Northumberland Crack5.8 * 
 Moved climbs 
 Cadillac Crag 
 South Boulder Peak 
 Quartzite 
307Tigger5.6 **1

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