Climbs 300
Rocktype Conglomerate
Altitude 1600m a.s.l
Faces all

Amazing. © Matt K Kelley Photography

Crag features

A glorious conglomerate sandstone canyon offering routes of all lengths and difficulties. Variety of feature and hue of rock abound.

The Bastille is the first crag on the left as you enter, right on the road.

Wind Tower and Whale's Tail are just opposite, with lots of classic easy/moderate routes.

The great central cliff is known as the Redgarden Wall.

The West Ridge is to the west of Redgarden.

For Supremacy follow the dirtroad past The Bastille for about half a mile.

The current guide book lists 14 crags and 1500+ routes.

Approach notes

South from Boulder or north from Golden on CO 93, then west on CO 170. Drive through Eldorado Springs, then into Eldorado Canyon State Park. The park is day use only. Entry lis currently $8 per car, or a one year Colorado State Parks pass is available for $70. Closures of various climbs may be in effect from time to time to protect nesting raptors. These closures are posted at the entrance.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Bastille 
2March of Dimes5.10c 5c *1
3Werk Supp5.9 5a, 5b **8
4Northcutt Variation5.10d 6a **3
5Bastille Crack5.7 4c ***28
6Outer Space5.10b 5b, 5b ***7
7Blind Faith5.10a ***5
 The Rotwand 
9Kinnder Rooten5.9 * 
 Wind Tower 
 Southwest Face of Wind Tower 
12Breezy
-
5.5 *1
13Wind Ridge
-
5.6 ***10
14Recon5.5 **4
15Tigger Plus5.8 **1
16Across The River From Butt Hair5.8  
17Tagger5.10c 5c *4
18Calypso
-
5.6 *11
19Reggae5.8 ***3
20The Bomb
-
5.3 **1
21West Overhang
-
5.7 *3
 South Face of Wind Tower 
23Lower Triagonal5.9 * 
24Scotch 'N' Soda
-
5.11b 6a * 
25Southeast Chimney5.3 ** 
 Hawk-Eagle Ridge 
 The Whale's Tale 
28West Dihedral
-
5.4 1
 Red Garden Wall 
30Grandmother's Challenge5.10c 5b **2
31Rewritten
-
5.7 *6
32The Great Zot
-
5.7 *2
33Swanson Arete5.5 **1
34Icarus5.6 **1
35Long John Wall5.8 **2
36Washington Irving5.6 *1
37Morning Thunder5.9 *1
38Touch 'N' Go5.9 5b ***6
39Anthill Direct
-
5.8 ***6
40Anthill Direct variations5.10a 2
41The Naked Edge5.11b 5c,6a ***6
42Alice In Bucketland
-
5.8 ** 
43Upper Ruper
-
5.8 ***1
44Ruper
-
5.8 ***3
45The Bulge5.7 **3
 West Ridge 
47Pony Express5.11a 6a **1
48Mescaline
-
5.8 1
49Dandi- Line
-
5.7  
50Break On Thru5.10c 5c * 
51Sister Morphine
-
5.9 *1
52Sooberb5.10c * 
53Chianti
-
5.8 * 
 Shirt Tail Peak/Potato Chip 
55Gambit5.8 **1
56The Mountaineers' Route5.5 *1
57Tiger balm Arete
-
5.11b ** 
 Rincon Wall 
59Center crack5.11a pg ***1
60Five Ten Crack5.10a pg ***2
61Five eight crack5.8 pg13 **1
 Cadillac Crag 
 South Boulder Peak 
 Quartzite 
 Peanuts 
66Sunrider
-
5.11d ***1
67Forbidden Planet
-
5.11b ***1
 Mickey Mouse Wall 
69Red Dihedral5.12d ***1
70Yellow Traverse5.9 *1
71Black Jack5.9  
72The Metamorphosis
-
5.8 **1
73Kings X
-
5.10c **2
74Disguise5.9 ** 
75Left Out5.8 ** 
76The Uplift5.10b * 
77Dead On Arrival5.11b 6a * 
78Cinch Crack5.12d 6c ** 
79Tombstone5.11a 5c *1
80Rush Buick5.6 * 
81Self - Abuse5.9 * 
82Roof's Way5.10b ** 
83Stay Hungry
-
5.10b  
84Devo
-
5.8  
85Crystal Graze
-
5.8  
86Howard Placebo
-
5.6  
87Siberian Khatru
-
5.8  
88Peter's Out5.5  
89East Face5.1 * 
90Dihedral Two5.8  
91Dirty Sam5.8  
92Spoof5.9 * 
93Clementine5.2 * 
94Kid's Climb5.8 * 
95Buffoon5.10b  
96West Face, Right5.3 ** 
97West Face, Left5.2 ** 
98Jack The Ripper5.9 *1
99Marie Antoinette5.9  
100Wide Country5.11b 6a, 6a ***4
101X-M5.10b 5b,5b, **4
102The Northwest Corner
-
5.11a 6a ***2
103Rain5.10b *1
104West Buttress5.10b 5c **8
105Hair City5.9 ***6
106West Face
-
5.10d 5c *2
107West Arete
-
5.8 *1
108West Side5.6 * 
109Breakfast In Bed5.8 * 
110Out To Lunge5.9 **2
111Neon Lights5.11b  
112Voodoo
-
5.8  
113Serengheti Spaghetti
-
5.10b  
114Nursery Cryme
-
5.10d  
115Tarzan
-
5.10c  
116East Overhang5.11b  
117Balance of Terror5.9  
118Genuine Risk
-
5.11a  
119The Whittle Wall5.7 ** 
120Shades of Gray
-
5.9  
121Dessert5.8 ** 
122Backtalk5.10c 5c **1
123Black Walk5.10c 5c **1
124A Breed Apart
-
5.11b 6a  
125Night5.10b * 
126Tonight
-
5.9  
127Pseudo Sidetrack5.4 ***1
128The Anthill5.5 ** 
129Whistle Stop
-
5.7 *1
130The Flakes
-
5.7 1
131C'Est La Morte5.9 5a *2
132C'Est La Vie5.11b 6a/b **8
133Desdichado5.13c 6c ** 
134Boomerang5.11c 6a **1
135Genesis5.12c 6c *** 
136Genesis 1974 version5.11a 6a ***4
137Leviticus
-
5.12c 6b,  
138Book of Numbers
-
5.13b * 
139Breezy
-
5.4 1
140Redguard Route5.7 **2
141Redguard Route variations5.9  
142Variation To The Lower Meadow5.6 ** 
143Diving Board5.10d 5c ** 
144Centaur
-
5.12d 6c * 
145Bolt To Glory6a+ *1
146Neurasthenia5.11a 6a  
147The Old Bad Aid Crack5.10b * 
148Young, Good, Free Face5.10d  
149King Tut
-
5.9  
150Fools Burn5.10b  
151T-25.10c 5c ***3
152Jules Verne5.11a 6a,6a ***2
153Lene's Dream5.11b * 
154Private Idaho
-
5.12a  
155The Clever Lever
-
5.12a  
156Grukatron
-
5.13a  
157Kloeberdanz
-
5.11a *2
158Guenese
-
5.11c 6a **3
159Fire and Ice
-
5.12a 6b ** 
160Psycho5.12d ** 
161Downpresser Man5.12b 6b * 
162Wasabe5.12c 6b * 
163Evangeline5.11b 6a *2
164Temporary Like Achilles5.10b 5b **3
165The Green Dihedral
-
5.7 ***1
166Scary Canary5.12b *1
167Dangerous Aquaintances5.11d  
168Wisdom5.11d ** 
169Le Toit
-
5.11b **1
170Tan Sock Line
-
M  
171True Confessions5.10b  
172Rosy Crucifixion5.10c 5b ***9
173Wild Kingdom
-
5.11a **1
174Predator
-
5.12b ** 
175Deception Passed5.9  
176Rover5.11b * 
177Grand Giraffe
-
5.9 ***1
178Art's Spar
-
5.10b *1
179Superslab5.10c 5c,5c ***5
180Doub-Griffith Route5.11c ** 
181Electric Aunt Jemima5.10c  
182Breakfast of Champions
-
5.10c 2
183Captain Crunch
-
5.12d 6c  
184The Slimy Spoon
-
5.8 * 
185Velvet Hammer
-
5.9  
186The West Face Of The Lower Ramp
-
5.1 * 
187Direct Start to Superslab5.12c * 
188Blow-Hard
-
5.9  
189Vertigo Direct (Mr Olympia)5.8 *1
190Mickey Mouse Die-Rect
-
5.11b  
191Vertigo5.11b ***3
192Vertigo Direct Finish5.11b 6a ***2
193Mickey Mouse Nail-Up
-
5.9 * 
194In Between5.10b  
195Pigeon Crack5.8 * 
196Psychosis5.10b ** 
197Neurosis
-
5.10b  
198Mellow Yellow
-
5.7 * 
199Love Minus Zero
-
5.11b * 
200Le Void
-
5.11b  
201Avoid5.8 * 
202The Serpent
-
5.10c * 
203Upper Grand Giraffe
-
5.6 ** 
204The Italian Arete5.9 ** 
205Chockstone Chimney
-
5.6 * 
206Body Tremors5.7 ** 
207E.L.5.7 ** 
208Exit Stage Left5.3 * 
209The Dirty Deed
-
5.4 * 
210Green Spur5.9 **5
211Darkness Til Dawn5.10a **3
212Green Slab Direct
-
5.9 ** 
213The Colour of Pomegranates
-
5.12c  
214Silver Raven
-
5.11c * 
215The Grand Course5.10a ** 
216Disappearing Act5.11a 5c,6a ** 
217Lost In Space5.7 * 
218Roof Wall
-
5.9 * 
219Northumberland Crack5.8 * 
220Waterline5.11b  
221Roadside Attraction5.10b  
222First Unknown
-
5.9  
223Flyback
-
5.9  
224Blues Power5.12b  
225Blind Mouse
-
5.8  
226Wing Shot5.11b  
227Allosaur5.9 5b *3
228The Initial Route5.8 * 
229Super Scooper5.9 * 
230Crow's Landing5.10b  
231Verschneidung Dihedral5.6 *1
232Clear A Sill5.9 * 
233The White Rabbit
-
5.9  
234Cruisin' For Burgers5.10b 5c *1
235Cut The Cheese5.9 ** 
236The Unsaid5.9 * 
237Next To Nearly5.10a 5c  
238Sunshine Wall
-
5.8  
239Weevil's Walk5.10b * 
240Kloof
-
5.11b  
241Sequential
-
5.12a * 
242Ignominity5.9 *1
243Court Jester
-
5.10b  
244The Human Factor
-
5.11d  
245Quiet Desperation
-
5.11c  
246Side Wall5.11a * 
247False Prophet
-
5.11d  
248Practise Climb 1015.10d 5c * 
249Bloke On The Side
-
5.9 1
250Chick On The Side5.9 *1
251Hyperspace Roundup
-
5.12d  
252The Mail Ridge5.9 * 
253Handcracker5.10a 1
254Handcracker Direct
-
5.10d * 
255Dead Letter Department5.8 * 
256Drug Abuse
-
5.9  
257Iron Horse
-
5.11a * 
258Zip Code5.11b * 
259Air Mail5.9  
260Cold Turkey5.9 * 
261Working Class Hero
-
5.9  
262Highway 69
-
5.9  
263Positively Fourth Street5.9 5b * 
264Lunar Lander
-
5.8  
265Doctor Michael Solar5.7  
266Inverted V
-
5.8  
267Pins And Needles
-
5.10d  
268Crazy Fingers
-
5.12a * 
269Foxtrot
-
5.11d * 
270Parallels
-
5.11c * 
271Lady Fingers
-
5.7  
272River of Darkness
-
5.7  
273Handcrack
-
5.9 1
274Terminal Velocity
-
5.11a 5c ** 
275Duh Dihedral5.6 * 
276Fine Line
-
5.9 1
277Pool of Blood5.9 * 
278The Formula
-
5.11d 6a *1
279Kashmir
-
5.11d  
280Hang Ten
-
5.8  
281Whiplash
-
5.10b  
282Triptych
-
5.10c  
283Tanqueray
-
5.11b  
284Kubla Khan
-
5.11b  
285Xanadu5.9 2
286Parlez Vous Hangdog
-
5.12b  
287Purple Haze5.9 *1
288Joke Crack
-
5.11b  
289Chockstone5.10b *2
290Knight's Move5.7 * 
291Jericho5.11b  
292Fading Light
-
5.9  
293Muscular Dystrophy5.10b  
294Bushwack Crack5.8  
295Sirens of Titan5.9 * 
296The Potato ChipM  
297Jabberwalk5.8  
298Moriarty's Revenge5.10a * 
299The Tail5.9 * 
300Missing Link
-
5.11a  
301Mrs Clean Get's Down
-
5.11b 6a  
302Cro Magnum
-
5.10a  
303White lightning
-
5.10a **1
304Laughing at the moon
-
5.10c ***1
305Prince Of Darkness
-
5.11a **1
306Over The Hill
-
5.10b ***2
 Moved climbs 

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