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These details were last updated on 15/Apr/2014

Eldorado Canyon

CO Eldorado Canyon, USA

Climbs 300 – Rocktype Conglomerate – Altitude 1600m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
A glorious conglomerate sandstone canyon offering routes of all lengths and difficulties. Variety of feature and hue of rock abound.

The Bastille is the first crag on the left as you enter, right on the road.

Wind Tower and Whale's Tail are just opposite, with lots of classic easy/moderate routes.

The great central cliff is known as the Redgarden Wall.

The West Ridge is to the west of Redgarden.

For Supremacy follow the dirtroad past The Bastille for about half a mile.

The current guide book lists 14 crags and 1500+ routes.

Guidebooks
Eldorado Canyon: A Climbing Guide (2010), Rock Climbing Eldorado Canyon (2000)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 THE BASTILLE  
2Northcutt Variation5.11a 6a *3
3Outer Space5.10b 5b, 5b ***5
4Bastille Crack5.7 4c ***20
5Blind Faith5.10a ***2
6March of Dimes5.10c 5c *1
7Werk Supp5.9 5a, 5b **5
 THE ROTWAND  
9Kinnder Rooten5.9 * 
 WIND TOWER  
11West Overhang5.7 *2
12Wind Ridge5.6 ***7
13Recon5.5 **2
14Southeast Chimney5.3 ** 
15The Bomb5.3 ** 
16Breezy5.5 *1
17Calypso5.6 *5
18Tagger5.10c 5c *3
 HAWK-EAGLE RIDGE  
 THE WHALE'S TALE  
 RED GARDEN WALL  
22The Bulge5.7 **2
 WEST RIDGE  
 SHIRT TAIL PEAK/POTATO CHIP  
 RINCON WALL  
 CADILLAC CRAG  
 SOUTH BOULDER PEAK  
 QUARTZITE  
 PEANUTS  
 MICKEY MOUSE WALL  
31Lower Triagonal5.9 * 
32Scotch 'N' Soda5.11b 6a * 
33Yellow Traverse5.9 *1
34Black Jack5.9  
35The Metamorphosis5.8 **1
36Kings X5.10c **2
37Disguise5.9 ** 
38Left Out5.8 ** 
39The Uplift5.10b * 
40Across The River From Butt Hair5.8  
41Dead On Arrival5.11b 6a * 
42Cinch Crack5.12d 6c ** 
43Tombstone5.11a 5c *1
44Rush Buick5.6 * 
45Self - Abuse5.9 * 
46Roof's Way5.10b ** 
47Stay Hungry5.10b  
48Devo5.8  
49Crystal Graze5.8  
50Howard Placebo5.6  
51Siberian Khatru5.8  
52Peter's Out5.5  
53East Face5.1 * 
54Dihedral Two5.8  
55Dirty Sam5.8  
56Spoof5.9 * 
57Clementine5.2 * 
58Kid's Climb5.8 * 
59Buffoon5.10b  
60West Face, Right5.3 ** 
61West Face, Left5.2 ** 
62Jack The Ripper5.9 *1
63Marie Antoinette5.9  
64Wide Country5.11b 6a, 6a ***3
65X-M5.10b 5b,5b, **4
66The Northwest Corner5.11a 6a ***2
67Rain5.10b *1
68West Buttress5.10b 5c **6
69Hair City5.9 ***4
70West Face5.10d 5c *1
71West Arete5.8 *1
72West Side5.6 * 
73Breakfast In Bed5.8 * 
74Out To Lunge5.9 **1
75Neon Lights5.11b  
76Voodoo5.8  
77Serengheti Spaghetti5.10b  
78Nursery Cryme5.10d  
79Tarzan5.10c  
80East Overhang5.11b  
81Balance of Terror5.9  
82Genuine Risk5.11a  
83The Whittle Wall5.7 ** 
84Shades of Gray5.9  
85Dessert5.8 ** 
86Backtalk5.10c 5c **1
87Black Walk5.10c 5c **1
88A Breed Apart5.11b 6a  
89Night5.10b * 
90Tonight5.9  
91Pseudo Sidetrack5.4 ***1
92The Anthill5.5 ** 
93Whistle Stop5.7 * 
94The Flakes5.7  
95C'Est La Morte5.9 5a *2
96C'Est La Vie5.11b 6a/b **5
97Desdichado5.13c 6c ** 
98Boomerang5.11c 6a **1
99Genesis5.12c 6c *** 
100Genesis 1974 version5.11a 6a ***3
101Leviticus5.12c 6b,  
102Book of Numbers5.13b * 
103Anthill Direct5.8 ***6
104Anthill Direct variations5.10a 2
105Redguard Route5.7 **1
106Redguard Route variations5.9  
107Variation To The Lower Meadow5.6 ** 
108Diving Board5.10d 5c ** 
109Centaur5.12d 6c * 
110The Naked Edge5.11b 5c,6a ***3
111Bolt To Glory6a+ *1
112Touch 'N' Go5.9 5b ***6
113Neurasthenia5.11a 6a  
114The Old Bad Aid Crack5.10b * 
115Young, Good, Free Face5.10d  
116King Tut5.9  
117Fools Burn5.10b  
118T-25.10c 5c ***2
119Jules Verne5.11a 6a,6a ***1
120Lene's Dream5.11b * 
121Private Idaho5.12a  
122The Clever Lever5.12a  
123Grukatron5.13a  
124Kloeberdanz5.11a * 
125Guenese5.11c 6a **2
126Fire and Ice5.12a 6b ** 
127Psycho5.12d ** 
128Downpresser Man5.12b 6b * 
129Wasabe5.12c 6b * 
130Evangeline5.11b 6a *2
131Temporary Like Achilles5.10b 5b **3
132Scary Canary5.12b * 
133Dangerous Aquaintances5.11d  
134Wisdom5.11d ** 
135Le Toit5.11b **1
136Tan Sock LineM  
137True Confessions5.10b  
138Rosy Crucifixion5.10c 5b ***8
139Wild Kingdom5.11a **1
140Predator5.12b ** 
141Deception Passed5.9  
142Ruper5.8 ***3
143Rover5.11b * 
144Grand Giraffe5.9 ***1
145Art's Spar5.10b * 
146Superslab5.10c 5c,5c ***4
147Doub-Griffith Route5.11c ** 
148Electric Aunt Jemima5.10c  
149Breakfast of Champions5.10c 2
150Captain Crunch5.12d 6c  
151The Slimy Spoon5.8 * 
 Climb nameGradex
152Velvet Hammer5.9  
153The West Face Of The Lower Ramp5.1 * 
154Direct Start to Superslab5.12c * 
155Blow-Hard5.9  
156Vertigo Direct (Mr Olympia)5.8 *1
157Mickey Mouse Die-Rect5.11b  
158Vertigo5.11b ***1
159Vertigo Direct Finish5.11b 6a ***1
160Mickey Mouse Nail-Up5.9 * 
161In Between5.10b  
162Pigeon Crack5.8 * 
163Psychosis5.10b ** 
164Neurosis5.10b  
165Mellow Yellow5.7 * 
166Love Minus Zero5.11b * 
167Le Void5.11b  
168Avoid5.8 * 
169The Serpent5.10c * 
170Upper Ruper5.8 ***1
171Alice In Bucketland5.8 ** 
172Upper Grand Giraffe5.6 ** 
173The Italian Arete5.9 ** 
174Chockstone Chimney5.6 * 
175Body Tremors5.7 ** 
176E.L.5.7 ** 
177Exit Stage Left5.3 * 
178Swanson Arete5.5 **1
179The Dirty Deed5.4 * 
180The Great Zot5.7 *1
181Rewritten5.7 *6
182Green Spur5.9 **5
183Grandmother's Challenge5.10c 5b **1
184Darkness Til Dawn5.10a **2
185Green Slab Direct5.9 ** 
186The Colour of Pomegranates5.12c  
187Silver Raven5.11c * 
188The Grand Course5.10a ** 
189Disappearing Act5.11a 5c,6a ** 
190Lost In Space5.7 * 
191Roof Wall5.9 * 
192Northumberland Crack5.8 * 
193Waterline5.11b  
194Roadside Attraction5.10b  
195First Unknown5.9  
196Flyback5.9  
197Morning Thunder5.9 *1
198Blues Power5.12b  
199Blind Mouse5.8  
200Wing Shot5.11b  
201Allosaur5.9 5b *3
202The Initial Route5.8 * 
203Super Scooper5.9 * 
204Crow's Landing5.10b  
205Verschneidung Dihedral5.6 *1
206Clear A Sill5.9 * 
207The White Rabbit5.9  
208Cruisin' For Burgers5.10b 5c *1
209Cut The Cheese5.9 ** 
210The Unsaid5.9 * 
211Next To Nearly5.10a 5c  
212Washington Irving5.6 *1
213Sunshine Wall5.8  
214Chianti5.8 * 
215Break On Thru5.10c 5c * 
216Weevil's Walk5.10b * 
217Kloof5.11b  
218Sequential5.12a * 
219Long John Wall5.8 **2
220Ignominity5.9 * 
221Sooperb5.10b * 
222Court Jester5.10b  
223The Human Factor5.11d  
224Quiet Desperation5.11c  
225Side Wall5.11a * 
226False Prophet5.11d  
227Practise Climb 1015.10d 5c * 
228Bloke On The Side5.9 1
229Chick On The Side5.9 *1
230Hyperspace Roundup5.12d  
231The Mail Ridge5.9 * 
232Handcracker5.10a 1
233Handcracker Direct5.10d * 
234Dead Letter Department5.8 * 
235Drug Abuse5.9  
236Sister Morphine5.9 * 
237Dandy LineM  
238Mescaline5.8 1
239Iron Horse5.11a * 
240Pony Express5.11a 6a ** 
241Zip Code5.11b * 
242Air Mail5.9  
243Cold Turkey5.9 * 
244Working Class Hero5.9  
245Highway 695.9  
246Positively Fourth Street5.9 5b * 
247Lunar Lander5.8  
248Doctor Michael Solar5.7  
249Inverted V5.8  
250Pins And Needles5.10d  
251Crazy Fingers5.12a * 
252Foxtrot5.11d * 
253Parallels5.11c * 
254Lady Fingers5.7  
255River of Darkness5.7  
256Handcrack5.9 1
257Terminal Velocity5.11a 5c ** 
258Duh Dihedral5.6 * 
259Fine Line5.9  
260Pool of Blood5.9 * 
261The Formula5.11d 6a * 
262Kashmir5.11d  
263Hang Ten5.8  
264Whiplash5.10b  
265Triptych5.10c  
266Tanqueray5.11b  
267Kubla Khan5.11b  
268Xanadu5.9 2
269Parlez Vous Hangdog5.12b  
270Purple Haze5.9 *1
271Joke Crack5.11b  
272Chockstone5.10b *2
273Knight's Move5.7 * 
274Jericho5.11b  
275Fading Light5.9  
276Muscular Dystrophy5.10b  
277Bushwack Crack5.8  
278Sirens of Titan5.9 * 
279The Potato ChipM  
280Jabberwalk5.8  
281The Mountaineers' Route5.5 *1
282Moriarty's Revenge5.10a * 
283The Tail5.9 * 
284Gambit5.8 **1
285Missing Link5.11a  
286Tiger balm Arete5.10b ** 
287Mrs Clean Get's Down5.11b 6a  
288Cro Magnum5.10a  
289White lightning5.10a **1
290Laughing at the moon5.10c ***1
291Prince Of Darkness5.11a **1
292Five-ten Crack5.10a ***1
293Over The Hill5.10b ***2
294Red Dihedral5.12d ***1
295The Green Dihedral5.7 ***1
 MOVED CLIMBS  
297Forbidden Planet5.11b ***1
298Sunrider5.11d ***1
299West Dihedral5.4 1
300Breezy5.4 1
301Tigger Plus5.8 **1
Access notes
South from Boulder or north from Golden on CO 93, then west on CO 170. Drive through Eldorado Springs, then into Eldorado Canyon State Park. The park is day use only. Entry lis currently $8 per car, or a one year Colorado State Parks pass is available for $70. Closures of various climbs may be in effect from time to time to protect nesting raptors. These closures are posted at the entrance.

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