Climbs 359
Rocktype Conglomerate
Altitude 1600m a.s.l
Faces all

Amazing. © Matt K Kelley Photography

Crag features

A glorious conglomerate sandstone canyon offering routes of all lengths and difficulties. Variety of feature and hue of rock abound.
The Bastille is the first crag on the left as you enter, right on the road.
Wind Tower and Whale's Tail are just opposite, with lots of classic easy/moderate routes.
The great central cliff is known as the Redgarden Wall.
The West Ridge is to the west of Redgarden.
For Supremacy follow the dirtroad past The Bastille for about half a mile.
The current guide book lists 14 crags and 1500+ routes.

Approach notes

South from Boulder or north from Golden on CO 93, then west on CO 170. Drive through Eldorado Springs, then into Eldorado Canyon State Park. The park is day use only. Entry lis currently $8 per car, or a one year Colorado State Parks pass is available for $70. Closures of various climbs may be in effect from time to time to protect nesting raptors. These closures are posted at the entrance as well as on the park website, http://cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/Parks/eldoradocanyon

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Bastille 
2March of Dimes
-
5.10c *3
3Werk Supp
-
5.9 **4
4Marie Antoinette
-
5.9  
5Northcutt Variant5.11a 6a **7
6Bastille Crack
-
5.8 ***11
7Outer Space
-
5.10c 5b ***5
8Wide Country5.11b 6a ***2
9X-M5.10c 5b,5b, ***2
10The Northwest Corner5.11a 6a *** 
11Rain
-
5.10d *1
12Hair City
-
5.9 **5
13West Face
-
5.11a **6
14West Arete
-
5.8 * 
15West Side5.6 * 
16Blind Faith
-
5.10a *4
17Breakfast In Bed
-
5.8 * 
18Out to Lunge5.10a 5b ** 
19SUNSET BOULEVARD
-
E3 **1
 The Bastille 
21March of Dimes5.10c 5c *1
22Werk Supp5.9 5a, 5b **8
23Marie Antoinette5.9  
24Northcutt Variation5.10d 6a **3
25Bastille Crack5.7 4c ***32
26Wide Country5.11b 6a, 6a ***6
27Outer Space5.10b 5b, 5b ***8
28The Northwest Corner
-
5.11a 6a ***2
29X-M5.10b 5b,5b, **4
30Rain5.10b *1
31West Buttress5.10b 5c **9
32Hair City5.9 ***6
33West Face
-
5.10d 5c *2
34West Arete
-
5.8 *1
35West Side5.6 * 
36Blind Faith5.10a ***5
37Breakfast In Bed5.8 * 
38Out To Lunge5.9 **2
39Neon Lights5.11b  
40Voodoo
-
5.8  
41Serengheti Spaghetti
-
5.10b  
42Nursery Cryme
-
5.10d  
43Tarzan
-
5.10c  
 The Rotwand 
45Kinnder Rooten5.9 * 
 Wind Tower 
47Wind Ridge5.6 3
48Wind Ridge (direct start)
-
5.8 ***2
49Tagger
-
5.10c ***3
50Calypso
-
5.6 2
51Calypso / Reggae Combination
-
5.8 **6
52King's X
-
5.10d **1
53Blackjack
-
5.10c 1
54Recon
-
5.4 1
55The Yellow Traverse and Metamorphosis
-
5.9 **1
 Southwest Face of Wind Tower 
57Tigger5.6 **1
58Breezy
-
5.5 *2
59Wind Ridge
-
5.6 ***10
60Recon5.5 **4
61Tigger Plus5.8 **1
62Across The River From Butt Hair5.8  
63Tagger5.10c 5c *4
64Calypso
-
5.6 *11
65Reggae5.8 ***3
66The Bomb
-
5.3 **1
67West Overhang
-
5.7 *3
 South Face of Wind Tower 
69Lower Triagonal5.9 * 
70Yellow Traverse5.9 *1
71Black Jack5.9  
72Scotch 'N' Soda
-
5.11b 6a * 
73Kings X
-
5.10c **2
74Southeast Chimney5.3 ** 
75The Metamorphosis
-
5.8 **1
76Disguise5.9 ** 
77Left Out5.8 ** 
78The Uplift5.10b * 
 Hawk-Eagle Ridge 
80Dead On Arrival5.11b 6a * 
81Cinch Crack5.12d 6c ** 
82Tombstone5.11a 5c *1
83Rush Buick5.6 * 
84Self - Abuse5.9 * 
85Roof's Way5.10b ** 
86Stay Hungry
-
5.10b  
87Devo
-
5.8  
88Crystal Graze
-
5.8  
89Howard Placebo
-
5.6  
90Siberian Khatru
-
5.8  
91Peter's Out5.5  
 The Whale's Tale 
93East Face5.1 * 
94Jack The Ripper5.9 *1
95Spoof5.9 * 
96Dihedral Two5.8  
97Dirty Sam5.8  
98West Dihedral
-
5.4 1
99West Face, Left5.2 ** 
100West Face, Right5.3 ** 
101Clementine5.2 * 
102Kid's Climb5.8 * 
103Buffoon5.10b  
 Red Garden Wall 
105Rewritten5.7 ***1
106The Yellow Spur5.9 ***15
107C'est La Vie
-
5.9 **5
108Bolting For Glory
-
5.10a **2
109Touch And Go
-
5.9 **7
110Ruper
-
5.8 ***2
111Green Spur
-
5.9 ***4
112Green Slab Direct
-
5.9 **2
113Blackwalk
-
5.10c **3
114Back in Black
-
5.11c ***1
115Pansee Savage
-
5.11b **1
116Backtalk
-
5.10c **2
117The Naked Edge
-
5.11b ***4
118Psycho
-
5.12c ***1
119Wasabe
-
5.12c **1
120Evangeline
-
5.11c ***2
121T2
-
5.10d ***2
122West Face, Right5.3 1
123C'est La Mort
-
5.9 **2
124Grandmother's Challenge5.10c 5b **2
125Rewritten
-
5.7 *6
126The Great Zot
-
5.7 *2
127Swanson Arete5.5 **1
128Icarus5.6 **1
129Washington Irving5.6 *1
130Morning Thunder5.9 *1
131Touch 'N' Go5.9 5b ***6
132Anthill Direct
-
5.8 ***7
133Anthill Direct variations5.10a 2
134The Naked Edge5.11b 5c,6a ***9
135Alice In Bucketland
-
5.8 ** 
136Upper Ruper
-
5.8 ***1
137Ruper
-
5.8 ***3
138The Bulge5.7 **3
139East Overhang5.11b  
140Balance of Terror5.9  
141Genuine Risk
-
5.11a  
142The Whittle Wall5.7 ** 
143Shades of Gray
-
5.9  
144Dessert5.8 ** 
145Backtalk5.10c 5c **1
146Black Walk5.10c 5c **1
147A Breed Apart
-
5.11b 6a  
148Night5.10b * 
149Tonight
-
5.9  
150Pseudo Sidetrack5.4 ***1
151The Anthill5.5 ** 
152Whistle Stop
-
5.7 *1
153The Flakes
-
5.7 1
154C'Est La Morte5.9 5a *2
155C'Est La Vie5.11b 6a/b **8
156Desdichado5.13c 6c ** 
157Le Boomerang5.11c 6a **2
158Genesis5.12c 6c *** 
159Genesis 1974 version5.11a 6a ***5
160Leviticus
-
5.12c 6b,  
161Book of Numbers
-
5.13b * 
162Redguard Route5.7 **2
163Redguard Route variations5.9  
164Variation To The Lower Meadow5.6 ** 
165Centaur
-
5.12d 6c * 
166Diving Board5.10d 5c ** 
167Bolting For Glory6a+ *1
168Neurasthenia5.11a 6a  
169The Old Bad Aid Crack5.10b * 
170Young, Good, Free Face5.10d  
171T-25.10c 5c ***3
172Fools Burn5.10b  
173King Tut
-
5.9  
174Jules Verne5.11a 6a,6a ***2
175Lene's Dream5.11b * 
176The Clever Lever
-
5.12a  
177Private Idaho
-
5.12a  
178Guokatron
-
5.12c  
179Kloeberdanz
-
5.11a *2
180Guenese
-
5.11c 6a **4
181Fire and Ice
-
5.12a 6b ** 
182Psycho5.12d ** 
183Downpresser Man5.12b 6b * 
184Wasabe5.12c 6b * 
185Evangeline5.11b 6a *2
186Temporary Like Achilles5.10b 5b **4
187Scary Canary5.12b *1
188Dangerous Aquaintances5.11d  
189Wisdom5.11d ** 
190Le Toit
-
5.11b **1
191True Confessions5.10b  
192Rosy Crucifixion5.10c 5b ***9
193Wild Kingdom
-
5.11a **1
194Predator
-
5.12b ** 
195Deception Passed5.9  
196Rover5.11b * 
197Grand Giraffe
-
5.9 ***1
198Art's Spar
-
5.10b *1
199Superslab5.10c 5c,5c ***6
200Doub-Griffith Route5.11c ** 
201Electric Aunt Jemima5.10c  
202Breakfast of Champions
-
5.10c 2
203Captain Crunch
-
5.12d 6c  
204The Slimy Spoon
-
5.8 * 
205Velvet Hammer
-
5.9  
206The West Face Of The Lower Ramp
-
5.1 * 
207Direct Start to Superslab5.12c * 
208Blow-Hard
-
5.9  
209Vertigo Direct (Mr Olympia)5.8 *1
210Mickey Mouse Die-Rect
-
5.11b  
211Vertigo5.11b ***3
212Vertigo Direct Finish5.11b 6a ***2
213Mickey Mouse Nail-Up
-
5.9 * 
214In Between5.10b  
215Pigeon Crack5.8 * 
216Psychosis5.10b ** 
217Neurosis
-
5.10b  
218Mellow Yellow
-
5.7 * 
219Love Minus Zero
-
5.11b * 
220Le Void
-
5.11b  
221Avoid5.8 * 
222The Serpent
-
5.10c * 
223Upper Grand Giraffe
-
5.6 ** 
224The Italian Arete5.9 ** 
225Chockstone Chimney
-
5.6 * 
226Body Tremors5.7 ** 
227E.L.5.7 ** 
228Exit Stage Left5.3 * 
229The Dirty Deed
-
5.4 * 
230Green Spur5.9 **5
231Darkness Til Dawn5.10a **3
232Green Slab Direct
-
5.9 ** 
233The Colour of Pomegranates
-
5.12c  
234Silver Raven
-
5.11c * 
235The Grand Course5.10a ** 
236Disappearing Act5.11a 5c,6a ** 
237Lost In Space5.7 * 
238Roof Wall
-
5.9 * 
239Northumberland Crack5.8 * 
 West Ridge 
241Pony Express5.11a 6a **1
242Mescaline
-
5.8 1
243Dandi- Line
-
5.7  
244Long John Wall5.8 **2
245Break On Thru5.10c 5c * 
246Sister Morphine
-
5.9 *1
247Sooberb5.10c * 
248Chianti
-
5.8 * 
249The Mail Ridge5.9 * 
250Handcracker5.10a 1
251Handcracker Direct
-
5.10d * 
252Dead Letter Department5.8 * 
253Drug Abuse
-
5.9  
254Iron Horse
-
5.11a * 
255Zip Code5.11b * 
256Air Mail5.9  
257Cold Turkey5.9 * 
258Working Class Hero
-
5.9  
259Highway 61
-
5.9  
260Positively Fourth Street5.9 5b * 
261Lunar Lander
-
5.8  
262Doctor Michael Solar5.7  
263Inverted V
-
5.8  
264Pins And Needles
-
5.10d  
265Crazy Fingers
-
5.12a * 
266Foxtrot
-
5.11d * 
267Parallels
-
5.11c * 
268Lady Fingers
-
5.7  
269River of Darkness
-
5.7  
270White Lightning5.10a 1
271Terminal Velocity
-
5.11a 5c ** 
272Duh Dihedral5.6 * 
273Fine Line
-
5.9 1
274Pool of Blood5.9 * 
275The Formula
-
5.11d 6a *1
276Kashmir
-
5.11d  
277Hang Ten
-
5.8  
278Whiplash
-
5.10b  
279Triptych
-
5.10c  
280Tanqueray
-
5.11b  
281Kubla Khan
-
5.11b  
282Xanadu5.9 2
283Parlez Vous Hangdog
-
5.12b  
284Purple Haze5.9 *1
285Joke Crack
-
5.11b  
286Chockstone5.10b *2
287Knight's Move5.7 * 
288Jericho5.11b  
289Fading Light
-
5.9  
290Muscular Dystrophy5.10b  
291Bushwack Crack5.8  
292Sirens of Titan5.9 * 
293White lightning
-
5.10a **1
294Laughing at the moon
-
5.10c ***1
295Prince Of Darkness
-
5.11a **1
296Waterline5.11b  
297Roadside Attraction5.10b  
298First Unknown
-
5.9  
299Flyback
-
5.9  
300Blues Power5.12b  
301Blind Mouse
-
5.8  
302Wing Shot5.11b  
303Allosaur5.9 5b *3
304The Initial Route5.8 * 
305Super Scooper5.9 * 
306Crow's Landing5.10b  
307Verschneidung Dihedral5.6 *1
308Clear A Sill5.9 * 
309The White Rabbit
-
5.9  
310Cruisin' For Burgers5.10b 5c *1
311Cut The Cheese5.9 ** 
312The Unsaid5.9 * 
313Next To Nearly5.10a 5c  
314Sunshine Wall
-
5.8  
315Weevil's Walk5.10b * 
316Kloof
-
5.11b  
317Sequential
-
5.12a * 
318Ignominity5.9 *1
319Court Jester
-
5.10b  
320The Human Factor
-
5.11d  
321Quiet Desperation
-
5.11c  
322Side Wall5.11a * 
323False Prophet
-
5.11d  
324Practise Climb 1015.10d 5c * 
325Bloke On The Side
-
5.9 1
326Chick On The Side5.9 *1
327Hyperspace Roundup
-
5.12d  
 Shirt Tail Peak/Potato Chip 
329Gambit5.8 **1
330The Mountaineers' Route5.5 *1
331Tiger balm Arete
-
5.11b ** 
332The Potato ChipM  
333Jabberwalk5.8  
334Moriarty's Revenge5.10a * 
335The Tail5.9 * 
336Missing Link
-
5.11a  
337Mrs Clean Get's Down
-
5.11b 6a  
338Cro Magnum
-
5.10a  
 Rincon Wall 
340Center crack5.11a pg ***1
341Five Ten Crack5.10a pg ***2
342Five eight crack5.8 pg13 **1
343Over The Hill
-
5.10b ***3
344Rinodina
-
5.9 * 
345Rincon
-
5.11a 6a ***3
346Rincon pitch 1 variant5.10b 5b *1
347Mind Over Matter
-
5.11b 6a * 
348Thunderbolt/Raccoon Soup
-
5.11d 6a *1
349Concentric5.10b  
350Bat's Ass Dihedral
-
5.11b 6a  
351What's My Line
-
5.11c * 
352Ventura Highway
-
5.10d 5c+  
353Kangaroo Tail5.8  
354Centre Route5.11a 6a **1
355Wendego5.12a 6a/b **1
356Climb Of The Century5.11c 6a **1
357Surf's Up
-
5.12d * 
358Trident
-
5.10b  
359Windy
-
5.10b * 
360Aerospace5.11b 6a *2
361Aerial Book5.11a 5c,6a **2
362Over The Hill5.10c 5b,5c **3
363Over And Out
-
5.7 *2
364Emerald City5.8 *1
365Next - Inside - Corner5.5  
 Cadillac Crag 
367Never Cry Wolf (aka Heartbreaker)5.11b **1
368V35.9 ***2
 South Boulder Peak 
 Quartzite 
 Peanuts 
372Sunrider
-
5.11d ***1
373Forbidden Planet
-
5.11b ***1
 Mickey Mouse Wall 
375Red Dihedral5.12d ***1
376The Green Dihedral
-
5.7 ***1

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