Climbs 363
Rocktype Conglomerate
Altitude 1600m a.s.l
Faces all

Amazing. © Matt K Kelley Photography

Crag features

A glorious conglomerate sandstone canyon offering routes of all lengths and difficulties. Variety of feature and hue of rock abound.
The Bastille is the first crag on the left as you enter, right on the road.
Wind Tower and Whale's Tail are just opposite, with lots of classic easy/moderate routes.
The great central cliff is known as the Redgarden Wall.
The West Ridge is to the west of Redgarden.
For Supremacy follow the dirtroad past The Bastille for about half a mile.
The current guide book lists 14 crags and 1500+ routes.

Approach notes

South from Boulder or north from Golden on CO 93, then west on CO 170. Drive through Eldorado Springs, then into Eldorado Canyon State Park. The park is day use only. Entry lis currently $8 per car, or a one year Colorado State Parks pass is available for $70. Closures of various climbs may be in effect from time to time to protect nesting raptors. These closures are posted at the entrance as well as on the park website, http://cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/Parks/eldoradocanyon

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Bastille 
2March of Dimes
-
5.10c *3
3Werk Supp
-
5.9 **4
4Marie Antoinette
-
5.9  
5Northcutt Variant5.11a 6a **8
6Bastille Crack
-
5.8 ***15
7Outer Space
-
5.10c 5b ***6
8Wide Country5.11b 6a ***2
9X-M5.10c 5b,5b, ***2
10The Northwest Corner5.11a 6a ***1
11Rain
-
5.10d *1
12Hair City
-
5.9 **6
13West Face
-
5.11a **6
14West Arete
-
5.8 * 
15West Side5.6 * 
16Blind Faith
-
5.10a *5
17Breakfast In Bed
-
5.8 * 
18Out to Lunge5.10a 5b ** 
19SUNSET BOULEVARD
-
E3 **1
 The Bastille 
21March of Dimes5.10c 5c *1
22Werk Supp5.9 5a, 5b **8
23Marie Antoinette5.9  
24Northcutt Variation5.10d 6a **3
25Bastille Crack5.7 4c ***34
26Wide Country5.11b 6a, 6a ***6
27Outer Space5.10b 5b, 5b ***8
28The Northwest Corner
-
5.11a 6a ***2
29X-M5.10b 5b,5b, **4
30Rain5.10b *1
31West Buttress5.10b 5c **9
32Hair City5.9 ***6
33West Face
-
5.10d 5c *2
34West Arete
-
5.8 *1
35West Side5.6 * 
36Blind Faith5.10a ***5
37Breakfast In Bed5.8 * 
38Out To Lunge5.9 **2
39Neon Lights5.11b  
40Voodoo
-
5.8  
41Serengheti Spaghetti
-
5.10b  
42Nursery Cryme
-
5.10d  
43Tarzan
-
5.10c  
 The Rotwand 
45Kinnder Rooten5.9 * 
 Wind Tower 
47Wind Ridge5.6 4
48Wind Ridge (direct start)
-
5.8 ***5
49Tagger
-
5.10c ***4
50Calypso
-
5.6 2
51Calypso / Reggae Combination
-
5.8 **6
52King's X
-
5.10d **1
53Blackjack
-
5.10c 1
54Recon
-
5.4 4
55The Yellow Traverse and Metamorphosis
-
5.9 **1
 Southwest Face of Wind Tower 
57Tigger5.6 **1
58Breezy
-
5.5 *3
59Wind Ridge
-
5.6 ***10
60Recon5.5 **4
61Tigger Plus5.8 **1
62Across The River From Butt Hair5.8  
63Tagger5.10c 5c *4
64Calypso
-
5.6 *12
65Reggae5.8 ***3
66The Bomb
-
5.3 **1
67West Overhang
-
5.7 *4
 South Face of Wind Tower 
69Lower Triagonal5.9 * 
70Yellow Traverse5.9 *1
71Black Jack5.9  
72Scotch 'N' Soda
-
5.11b 6a * 
73Kings X
-
5.10c **2
74Southeast Chimney5.3 ** 
75The Metamorphosis
-
5.8 **1
76Disguise5.9 ** 
77Left Out5.8 ** 
78The Uplift5.10b * 
 Hawk-Eagle Ridge 
80Dead On Arrival5.11b 6a * 
81Cinch Crack5.12d 6c ** 
82Tombstone5.11a 5c *1
83Rush Buick5.6 * 
84Self - Abuse5.9 * 
85Roof's Way5.10b ** 
86Stay Hungry
-
5.10b  
87Devo
-
5.8  
88Crystal Graze
-
5.8  
89Howard Placebo
-
5.6  
90Siberian Khatru
-
5.8  
91Peter's Out5.5  
 The Whale's Tale 
93East Face5.1 * 
94Jack The Ripper5.9 *1
95Spoof5.9 * 
96Dihedral Two5.8  
97Dirty Sam5.8  
98West Dihedral
-
5.4 1
99West Face, Left5.2 ** 
100West Face, Right5.3 ** 
101Clementine5.2 * 
102Kid's Climb5.8 * 
103Buffoon5.10b  
 Red Garden Wall 
105Rewritten5.7 ***1
106Over the shoulder stuff
-
5.10c *2
107The Yellow Spur5.9 ***20
108C'est La Vie
-
5.9 **5
109Bolting For Glory
-
5.10a **2
110Touch And Go
-
5.9 **8
111Ruper
-
5.8 ***2
112Green Spur
-
5.9 ***4
113Green Slab Direct
-
5.9 **2
114Blackwalk
-
5.10c **3
115Back in Black
-
5.11c ***1
116Pansee Savage
-
5.11b **1
117Backtalk
-
5.10c **2
118The Naked Edge
-
5.11b ***4
119Psycho
-
5.12c ***1
120Wasabe
-
5.12c **1
121Evangeline
-
5.11c ***2
122T2
-
5.10d ***2
123West Face, Right5.3 1
124C'est La Mort
-
5.9 **2
125Grandmother's Challenge5.10c 5b **4
126Rewritten
-
5.7 *6
127The Great Zot
-
5.7 *3
128Swanson Arete5.5 **1
129Icarus5.6 **1
130Washington Irving5.6 *1
131Morning Thunder5.9 *1
132Touch 'N' Go5.9 5b ***6
133Anthill Direct
-
5.8 ***7
134Anthill Direct variations5.10a 2
135The Naked Edge5.11b 5c,6a ***9
136Alice In Bucketland
-
5.8 ** 
137Upper Ruper
-
5.8 ***1
138Ruper
-
5.8 ***3
139The Bulge5.7 **4
140East Overhang5.11b  
141Balance of Terror5.9  
142Genuine Risk
-
5.11a  
143The Whittle Wall5.7 ** 
144Shades of Gray
-
5.9  
145Dessert5.8 ** 
146Backtalk5.10c 5c **1
147Black Walk5.10c 5c **1
148A Breed Apart
-
5.11b 6a  
149Night5.10b * 
150Tonight
-
5.9  
151Pseudo Sidetrack5.4 ***1
152The Anthill5.5 ** 
153Whistle Stop
-
5.7 *1
154The Flakes
-
5.7 1
155C'Est La Morte5.9 5a *2
156C'Est La Vie5.11b 6a/b **8
157Desdichado5.13c 6c ** 
158Le Boomerang5.11c 6a **2
159Genesis5.12c 6c *** 
160Genesis 1974 version5.11a 6a ***5
161Leviticus
-
5.12c 6b,  
162Book of Numbers
-
5.13b * 
163Redguard Route5.7 **2
164Redguard Route variations5.9  
165Variation To The Lower Meadow5.6 ** 
166Centaur
-
5.12d 6c * 
167Diving Board5.10d 5c ** 
168Bolting For Glory6a+ *1
169Neurasthenia5.11a 6a  
170The Old Bad Aid Crack5.10b * 
171Young, Good, Free Face5.10d  
172T-25.10c 5c ***3
173Fools Burn5.10b  
174King Tut
-
5.9  
175Jules Verne5.11a 6a,6a ***2
176Lene's Dream5.11b * 
177The Clever Lever
-
5.12a  
178Private Idaho
-
5.12a  
179Guokatron
-
5.12c  
180Kloeberdanz
-
5.11a *2
181Guenese
-
5.11c 6a **4
182Fire and Ice
-
5.12a 6b ** 
183Psycho5.12d ** 
184Downpresser Man5.12b 6b * 
185Wasabe5.12c 6b * 
186Evangeline5.11b 6a *2
187Temporary Like Achilles5.10b 5b **4
188Scary Canary5.12b *1
189Dangerous Aquaintances5.11d  
190Wisdom5.11d ** 
191Le Toit
-
5.11b **1
192True Confessions5.10b  
193Rosy Crucifixion5.10c 5b ***10
194Wild Kingdom
-
5.11a **1
195Predator
-
5.12b ** 
196Deception Passed5.9  
197Rover5.11b * 
198Grand Giraffe
-
5.9 ***1
199Art's Spar
-
5.10b *1
200Superslab5.10c 5c,5c ***6
201Doub-Griffith Route5.11c ** 
202Electric Aunt Jemima5.10c  
203Breakfast of Champions
-
5.10c 2
204Captain Crunch
-
5.12d 6c  
205The Slimy Spoon
-
5.8 * 
206Velvet Hammer
-
5.9  
207The West Face Of The Lower Ramp
-
5.1 * 
208Direct Start to Superslab5.12c * 
209Blow-Hard
-
5.9  
210Vertigo Direct (Mr Olympia)5.8 *1
211Mickey Mouse Die-Rect
-
5.11b  
212Vertigo5.11b ***3
213Vertigo Direct Finish5.11b 6a ***2
214Mickey Mouse Nail-Up
-
5.9 * 
215In Between5.10b  
216Pigeon Crack5.8 * 
217Psychosis5.10b ** 
218Neurosis
-
5.10b  
219Mellow Yellow
-
5.7 * 
220Love Minus Zero
-
5.11b * 
221Le Void
-
5.11b  
222Avoid5.8 * 
223The Serpent
-
5.10c * 
224Upper Grand Giraffe
-
5.6 ** 
225The Italian Arete5.9 ** 
226Chockstone Chimney
-
5.6 * 
227Body Tremors5.7 ** 
228E.L.5.7 ** 
229Exit Stage Left5.3 * 
230The Dirty Deed
-
5.4 * 
231Green Spur5.9 **5
232Darkness Til Dawn5.10a **5
233Green Slab Direct
-
5.9 ** 
234The Colour of Pomegranates
-
5.12c  
235Silver Raven
-
5.11c * 
236The Grand Course5.10a ** 
237Disappearing Act5.11a 5c,6a ** 
238Lost In Space5.7 * 
239Roof Wall
-
5.9 * 
240Northumberland Crack5.8 * 
 West Ridge 
242Pony Express5.11a 6a **1
243Mescaline
-
5.8 1
244Dandi- Line
-
5.7  
245Long John Wall5.8 **2
246Break On Thru5.10c 5c * 
247Sister Morphine
-
5.9 *1
248Sooberb5.10c * 
249Chianti
-
5.8 * 
250The Mail Ridge5.9 * 
251Handcracker5.10a 1
252Handcracker Direct
-
5.10d * 
253Dead Letter Department5.8 * 
254Drug Abuse
-
5.9  
255Iron Horse
-
5.11a * 
256Zip Code5.11b * 
257Air Mail5.9  
258Cold Turkey5.9 * 
259Working Class Hero
-
5.9  
260Highway 61
-
5.9  
261Positively Fourth Street5.9 5b * 
262Lunar Lander
-
5.8  
263Doctor Michael Solar5.7  
264Inverted V
-
5.8  
265Pins And Needles
-
5.10d  
266Crazy Fingers
-
5.12a * 
267Foxtrot
-
5.11d * 
268Parallels
-
5.11c * 
269Lady Fingers
-
5.7  
270River of Darkness
-
5.7  
271White Lightning5.10a 1
272Terminal Velocity
-
5.11a 5c ** 
273Duh Dihedral5.6 * 
274Fine Line
-
5.9 1
275Pool of Blood5.9 * 
276The Formula
-
5.11d 6a *1
277Kashmir
-
5.11d  
278Hang Ten
-
5.8  
279Whiplash
-
5.10b  
280Triptych
-
5.10c  
281Tanqueray
-
5.11b  
282Kubla Khan
-
5.11b  
283Xanadu5.9 2
284Parlez Vous Hangdog
-
5.12b  
285Purple Haze5.9 *1
286Joke Crack
-
5.11b  
287Chockstone5.10b *2
288Knight's Move5.7 * 
289Jericho5.11b  
290Fading Light
-
5.9  
291Muscular Dystrophy5.10b  
292Bushwack Crack5.8  
293Sirens of Titan5.9 * 
294White lightning
-
5.10a **1
295Laughing at the moon
-
5.10c ***1
296Prince Of Darkness
-
5.11a **1
297Waterline5.11b  
298Roadside Attraction5.10b  
299First Unknown
-
5.9  
300Flyback
-
5.9  
301Blues Power5.12b  
302Blind Mouse
-
5.8  
303Wing Shot5.11b  
304Allosaur5.9 5b *3
305The Initial Route5.8 * 
306Super Scooper5.9 * 
307Crow's Landing5.10b  
308Verschneidung Dihedral5.6 *1
309Clear A Sill5.9 * 
310The White Rabbit
-
5.9  
311Cruisin' For Burgers5.10b 5c *1
312Cut The Cheese5.9 ** 
313The Unsaid5.9 * 
314Next To Nearly5.10a 5c  
315Sunshine Wall
-
5.8  
316Weevil's Walk5.10b * 
317Kloof
-
5.11b  
318Sequential
-
5.12a * 
319Ignominity5.9 *1
320Court Jester
-
5.10b  
321The Human Factor
-
5.11d  
322Quiet Desperation
-
5.11c  
323Side Wall5.11a * 
324False Prophet
-
5.11d  
325Practise Climb 1015.10d 5c * 
326Bloke On The Side
-
5.9 1
327Chick On The Side5.9 *1
328Hyperspace Roundup
-
5.12d  
 Shirt Tail Peak/Potato Chip 
330Gambit5.8 **2
331The Mountaineers' Route5.5 *1
332Tiger balm Arete
-
5.11b ** 
333The Potato ChipM  
334Jabberwalk5.8  
335Moriarty's Revenge5.10a * 
336The Tail5.9 * 
337Missing Link
-
5.11a  
338Mrs Clean Get's Down
-
5.11b 6a  
339Cro Magnum
-
5.10a  
 Rincon Wall 
341Center crack5.11a pg ***1
342Five Ten Crack5.10a pg ***2
343Five eight crack5.8 pg13 **1
344Over The Hill
-
5.10b ***3
345Rinodina
-
5.9 * 
346Rincon
-
5.11a 6a ***3
347Rincon pitch 1 variant5.10b 5b *1
348Mind Over Matter
-
5.11b 6a * 
349Thunderbolt/Raccoon Soup
-
5.11d 6a *1
350Concentric5.10b  
351Bat's Ass Dihedral
-
5.11b 6a  
352What's My Line
-
5.11c * 
353Ventura Highway
-
5.10d 5c+  
354Kangaroo Tail5.8  
355Centre Route5.11a 6a **1
356Wendego5.12a 6a/b **1
357Climb Of The Century5.11c 6a **1
358Surf's Up
-
5.12d * 
359Trident
-
5.10b  
360Windy
-
5.10b * 
361Aerospace5.11b 6a *2
362Aerial Book5.11a 5c,6a **2
363Over The Hill5.10c 5b,5c **3
364Over And Out
-
5.7 *2
365Emerald City5.8 *2
366Next - Inside - Corner5.5  
 Cadillac Crag 
368Gonzo
-
5.8 **1
369Never Cry Wolf (aka Heartbreaker)5.11b **1
370V35.9 ***2
371Twistoflex
-
5.8 **1
 South Boulder Peak 
 Quartzite 
374Supremacy Crack5.11b ***1
 Peanuts 
376Sunrider
-
5.11d ***1
377Forbidden Planet
-
5.11b ***1
 Mickey Mouse Wall 
379Red Dihedral5.12d ***1
380The Green Dihedral
-
5.7 ***1

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