Climbs 38
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)

Faces SE

Biceps Wall © Rog Wilko

Crag features

A fine little crag receiving sunshine for most of the day. Strenuous climbing on sound, rough rock - Cwm Eigiau formation sandstone - a nice change from the mainly Rhyolite crags elsewhere in the area. Best climbing to be had in the intermediate grades. Mainly multi-pitch to 30 metres.

Approach notes

Follow the access road to Ffynnon Llygwy as for Craig yr Ysfa to the leat or watercourse which traverses the hillside, and follow this leftwards (there is a sign saying no through access - everything to the North of the leat is access land) to a footbridge just before Afon Llugwy; then take a direct line to the boulder slopes below the crag, about 30 mins from the road.

On no account should the private road to the farm at Glan Llugwy be used. Moreover, the access road serves both the water authorities, farmer and the Mountain Rescue teams -- therefore, do NOT park in front of the locked access gate.

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Ogwen and Carneddau (1993)
A really pleasant mountain crag with a beautiful outlook and position. Walk in is relatively painless and the rock is lovely and rough. Well worth going up if you climb around VS.
The Pylon King - 24/Jun/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 West Buttress 
2Zip WallHS 4b *76
3Zip Up / Red riverE1 5b **2
4Zip GrooveVS 4b *91
5UnzippedE4 6a ** 
6Cracked AreteVS 4c ***144
7ZippoE3 5c *1
8Moss wallS 7
9RedstartE2 5c  
10The Crawl ClimbVD 6
11Brexistential CrisisE3 5c * 
12Crack and CornerVD 6
13Blood Red MoonE1 5b  
14Unnamed 1HVS 5b  
15Unnamed 2E1 5b * 
16Central RouteVS 4b  
 East Buttress 
18Angle GullyS  
19Tramline TraverseVD  
20ClavicleE1 5b 1
21The Wild BunchE2 5c  
22Pectoral WallHVS 5a 7
23The RegulatorsE1 5b * 
24Carry on CowboyE2 5c * 
25TemperE2 5c *2
26Triceps RoofE4 6a * 
27Biceps WallVS 5a *68
28Funny BoneE1 5b *3
29Funny Bone VariationE2 5b 1
30Laughing MatterE3 6a  
31Knee CapVS 4c 6
32The OutlawsE1 5b *1
33MitreVS 4b  
34Jane (If she doesn't mind)S 5
35WisecrackE4 6a  
36Right ChimneyM 3
37Wiley CoyoteHVS 5b 1
38The Man From God's CountryVS 5a 1
39GetawayHVS  
 Upper Tier 
41PinnaclissimoS *3

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