Climbs 38
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)

Faces SE

Biceps Wall © Rog Wilko

Crag features

A fine little crag receiving sunshine for most of the day. Strenuous climbing on sound, rough rock - Cwm Eigiau formation sandstone - a nice change from the mainly Rhyolite crags elsewhere in the area. Best climbing to be had in the intermediate grades. Mainly multi-pitch to 30 metres.

Approach notes

Follow the access road to Ffynnon Llygwy as for Craig yr Ysfa to the leat or watercourse which traverses the hillside, and follow this leftwards (there is a sign saying no through access - everything to the North of the leat is access land) to a footbridge just before Afon Llugwy; then take a direct line to the boulder slopes below the crag, about 30 mins from the road.

On no account should the private road to the farm at Glan Llugwy be used. Moreover, the access road serves both the water authorities, farmer and the Mountain Rescue teams -- therefore, do NOT park in front of the locked access gate.

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North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
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North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
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Ogwen and Carneddau (1993)
A really pleasant mountain crag with a beautiful outlook and position. Walk in is relatively painless and the rock is lovely and rough. Well worth going up if you climb around VS.
The Pylon King - 24/Jun/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 West Buttress 
2Zip WallHS 4b *76
3Red riverE1 5b **2
4Zip GrooveVS 4b *91
5Cracked AreteVS 4c ***144
6ZippoE3 5c *1
7Moss wallS 7
8The Crawl ClimbVD 6
9Crack and CornerVD 6
10RedstartE2 5c  
11Central RouteVS 4b  
 East Buttress 
13Angle GullyS  
14Tramline TraverseVD  
15Pectoral WallHVS 5a 7
16TemperE2 5c *2
17Biceps WallVS 5a *68
18Funny BoneVS 4c *3
19Funny Bone VariationE2 5b 1
20Knee CapVS 4c 6
21MitreVS 4b  
22Jane (If she doesn't mind)S 5
23Right ChimneyM 3
 Upper Tier 
25PinnaclissimoS *3
26Unzipped *
E4 6a ** 
27Brexistential Crisis *
E3 5c * 
28Blood Red Moon *
E1 5b  
29Unnamed 1 *
HVS 5b  
30Unnamed 2 *
E1 5b * 
31Clavicle *
E1 5b  
32The Wild Bunch *
E2 5c  
33The Regulators *
E1 5b * 
34Carry on Cowboy *
E2 5c * 
35Triceps Roof *
E4 6a3 * 
36Laughing Matter *
E3 6a  
37The Outlaws *
E1 5b *1
38Wisecrack *
E4 6a  
39Wiley Coyote *
HVS 5b 1
40The Man From God's Country *
VS 5a 1
41Getaway *
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ron Rees Davies