A fine little crag receiving sunshine for most of the day. Strenuous climbing on sound, rough rock. Best climbing to be had in the intermediate grades. Mainly multi-pitch to 30 metres.
Follow the access road to Ffynnon Llygwy as for Craig yr Ysfa to the leat or watercourse which traverses the hillside, and follow this to a footbridge just before Afon Llugwy; then take a direct line to the boulder slopes below the crag, about 30 mins from the road.
June 05: falcon or kestrel nest on or around Biceps Wall in main crack line. Do not climb this line.
On no account should the private road to the farm at GlanLlugwy be used. Moreover, the access road serves both the farmer and the Mountain Rescue teams -- therefore, do NOT park in front of the locked access gate.
|1||Zip Wall||HS 4b *||58|
|2||Red river||E1 5b **||2|
|3||Zip Groove||VS 4b *||70|
|4||Cracked Arete||VS 4c ***||107|
|5||Zippo||E3 5c *||1|
|7||The Crawl Climb||VD||6|
|8||Crack and Corner||VD||5|
|10||Central Route||VS 4b|
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|A really pleasant mountain crag with a beautiful outlook and position. Walk in is relatively painless and the rock is lovely and rough. Well worth going up if you climb around VS.|
The Pylon King - 24/Jun/07