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These details were last updated on 13/Nov/2013

Stob Coire nan Lochan

Highland, SCOTLAND

Climbs 53 – Rocktype Andesite – Altitude 800m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
Defined by high steep ridges the North-East corrie of Stob Coire nan Lochan is an idyllic spot with tall columnar cliffs an deeply cut gullies. Its height makes it one of the most reliable winter climbing spots in Glencoe and it offers excellent routes of all grades. A fair amount of loose rock and windslab avalanches on the lower slopes can be hazardous.

Access notes
Cross the footbridge over the River Coe at 166566 and plod up the path to the foot of the crags in about 1 1/2 hours

Weather forecast

 Today  Tue  Wed  Thu  Fri 

10.5mm rain
Sunny periods
13 °C
19 kph

4.8mm rain
Cloudy
14 °C
28 kph

14.5mm rain
Mainly cloudy
14 °C
35 kph

2.6mm rain
Cloudy
14 °C
26 kph

2.7mm rain
Mainly cloudy
13 °C
33 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Northwest HighlandsMet Office: West Highlands

Guidebooks
Scottish Winter Climbs (2008), Scottish Rock - South (2008), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Scottish Winter Climbs (1996), Glen Coe (1992)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
 SUMMIT BUTTRESS  
2Wandering WombatII 4
3Boomerang Gully (Left exit)II *32
4Boomerang GullyII 286
5Boomerang AreteIII 27
6Ordinary Route (Summit Buttress)IV 5 *52
7Yankee Go HomeIII 1
8The DuelIX 9 ***3
9Scabbard ChimneyV 6 ***108
10SpectreV 6 *31
11InnuendoV 6 13
12LangsamII *9
13Pearly GatesI/II 18
14The TempestM9 ***1
15Broad GullyI 390
16Dorsal AreteII ***916
17Dorsal Arete Chimney VariationIV 5 **28
18Forked Gully Left HandI/II 92
19Forked Gully Right HandII/III 65
20Seattle GroovesIV 5 2
21Twisting GroovesIV 5 **32
22Twisting GullyIII 4 ***330
23Twisting Gully Right-HandIV 5 ***43
 SOUTH BUTTRESS  
25MoonshineVI 7 **2
26MoonshadowIV 4 *34
27Chimney RouteVI 6 ***31
28TiltVS 4c ***10
29TiltVI 7 ***23
 Climb nameGradex
30InclinationVII 7 ***5
31UnicornE1 5a ***78
32UnicornVIII 8 ***10
33ScansorE2 5b **10
34SC GullyIII ***251
35SC Gully VariantIV 4 *9
 CENTRAL BUTTRESS  
37East Face RouteV 7 *2
38East Face Direct DirectVII 7 ***4
39ScrabbleVIII 7 **1
40Central GroovesVS 4c *17
41Central GroovesVII 7 ***31
42Central ButtressVII 7 ***4
43The Starting BlocksVII 8 ***3
44SatyrIX 9 ** 
45Ordinary Route (Central Buttress), AKA Raeburn's RouteIV 4 **264
46NC GullyI/II 246
 NORTH BUTTRESS  
48Evening CitizenV 7 *13
49Para AndyVI 7 *6
50IntruderVI 7 *14
51Crest RouteV 6 **55
52TuberculosisVII 7 **1
53North GullyI/II 20
 PINNACLE BUTTRESS  
55Pinnacle Buttress GrooveII/III *27
56Pinnacle GullyI 17
57Raeburn's Route (Pedestal Variation)IV 5 ***13
58The StrugglerV 7 **1
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Another confusion: Raeburn's Route and Ordinary Route (Central Buttress) are the same route.
Andy Moles - 30/Jan/10

There seems to be a bit of confusion on ukclimbing.com between Stob Coire nan Lochan (Glencoe) and Coire an Lochain (N. Cairngorms)in the links from photos in the Gallery section. This could lead to people walking up from the Clachaig looking for Savage Slit !
John Hawins - 14/Feb/04