Garbh Bheinn, South Wall

Climbs 40 – Rocktype Gneiss – Altitude 788m a.s.l – Faces SE

Crag features
The south wall forms the upper part of the south flank of the Garbh Bheinn Great Ridge. Butterknife is the route most come to climb but there are lots of other good climbs that make the arduous approach worthwhile. Kelpie certainly seems a route to aspire to, with rave reviews from all ascensionists and there are plenty of routes at a more amenable grade to enjoy.

Approach notes
From the road follow a path by the burn to the bealach south of the summit. Turn down right to gain the left end of the wall and cross easy slabs to reach the lower level.

Scottish Rock - South (2008), Glen Coe (2001),
Out of print: Glen Coe (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1The Great RidgeD **68
2The Great Ridge DirectS *59
3The Great Ridge (winter)III ***2
4The Great GullyVD  
6BrackE3 5c * 
7The GrallochE2 5b ***2
8ScimitarVS 4c **25
9Razor SlashS *1
10LeviathanE3 6a * 
11The Golden LanceE2 5c *2
12ButterknifeHS 4b ***93
13Butterknife Direct FinishVS 4c ***2
14BodkinHVS 5a * 
15PoniardHVS 5a ** 
16MournbladeVS 4b **7
18The PeelerHVS 5b *8
19Sgian DubhS **35
20Sgian Dubh (winter)V 6 **2
21SalaHVS 5a * 
22MenghiniE1 ***9
23CutlassE4 6b *1
24SabreE5 6b ** 
25The EpeeistE5 6b *** 
26KelpieE6 6b *** 
27Tru-CutE3 5c * 
28ChelaE3 6a  
29The PincerE2 5b ***15
30The ContenderE3 5c **2
31White HopeE5 6a ***3
32The ClaspE1 5a *4
33ExcaliburHVS 5a ***28
34GuenevereHVS 5a **6
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Needs updated. While Sgian Dubh is given Vdiff in the Garry Latte Guide there is no way that this is the case. The Clasp is E1 in both SMC and Garry latter while given HVS on here. Definitely more E1 than HVS!
arose - 27/Jul/15
Needs an update. 67 routes on a wide variety of crags in the OLD Glencoe Guide!
Andy Say - 13/Oct/12