Climbs 11
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)

Faces S

Crag features

Rectangular hole in the ground (The Central Quarry), with mainly bolt-protected sport climbs. The quarry is designated an 'instructional area' where groups are taken absiling etc. See the access notes.

Note that the four routes on the north wall and the first two routes on the east wall, although bolted, might have their 8mm hangers removed. Should this be the case, placing hangers on abseil from conveniently placed cliff-top trees is unproblematic.

Approach notes

The quarry is managed by the Forestry Commission, and designated an instructional site for abseiling etc, mainly to take the pressure off Symonds Yat. For this reason, recreational climbing is not officially allowed, although in practice climbers are likely to be tolerated provided that they do not in any way disrupt or interfer with the (fee-paying) instructional groups. The layout of the quarry is such that no conflict need arise. Groups who wish to book should phone the Forestry Commission Office in Coleford (01594-833057) and ask for the Public Affairs Department.

Drive a mile and a half east of Coleford town centre on the B4226 Speech House Road to Cinderford. After exiting the 30mph speed limit of Broadwell, continue down the hill a short way to a tarmac track on the left which is the drive to the Worcester Lodge Caravan Park. There is parking space for two or three cars immediately on the left just opposite the small water pumping station. Take the obvious track on the opposite side of the main road past a track jct on the brow of the short rise to another jct beyond. Turn left here, on either the track or the smaller path to its right. Both take you to the perimeter fence of the western quarry, and the central quarry is just beyond. For Spion Kop, continue downhill between two large boulders.


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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Grit reflections
E4 6a  
2Six Blade
E2 5c  
3DonaldHVS 5a 2
E1 5b  
5Get On Up
7Nice Noddy Holder
8Get Down and Get With It
9Chimes of Nausea7b  
10Desert Planet Kidz6b+  
11Crash Dummies' Day OutE1 5b 1

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