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View larger mapGrid Ref TQ 554355 (OS Landranger #188)

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These details were last updated on 11/Aug/2009

Eridge Green Rocks

East Sussex, ENGLAND

Climbs 129 – Rocktype Sandstone (soft) – Altitude 120m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Height varying between 5 and 10m. Variable quality, from lichenous and friable to clean and solid. Like other soft sandstone crags, either solo or use topropes with extended slings. Do not let ropes rub the rock. The bouldering here can be fantastic in late summer, when the shady aspect means it is cooler (and quieter) than Bowles or Harrisons. Very reminiscent of Font, especially at the Northern (RH) end of the crag.

Please note there are some areas where climbing is banned as part of the access agreement. You may climb on routes from the south end (by the car park) of the crag up to, and including, Dr. Kemp's Cure. From here, climbing is banned up to and including Higher Purchase. The exceptions are the three climbs 'Sandstorm', 'The Crunch' and 'More Cake For Me' where climbing is permitted but chalk is not allowed. Climbing is also banned from Moroccan Roll to the north end of the crag. Please respect the access conditions. If you see poor belaying methods please advise on the correct procedure. A carpet sample is very useful for cleaning your feet before you climb - this significantly reduces wear on the crag.

Weather forecast

 Today  Mon  Tue  Wed  Thu 

0.5mm rain
Cloudy
10 °C
21 kph

23.4mm rain
Cloudy
11 °C
22 kph

1.7mm rain
Sunny periods
11 °C
18 kph

0.5mm rain
Mainly cloudy
12 °C
15 kph

0.6mm rain
Sunny periods
12 °C
17 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
Southern sandstone bouldering (2012), Southern Sandstone (2008),
Out of print: Southern Sandstone (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 ELEPHANT'S BOULDER  
2Heffalumpnone 2a 2
3Diagonalnone 6b **1
4Y Cracknone 4c *3
5Why Not Go Rightnone 5a 1
 COLUMNAR BUTTRESS  
7Columnar Buttressnone 4a 1
 CAR PARK CRAGS  
9Mammoth Wallnone 5b **3
10Siesta Wallnone 5b *20
11Innominate Cracknone 5b ***20
12Big Fat Tartnone 5b 6
13Equilibrium Wallnone 5b *31
14Hottienone 6a *3
15Nuthin' Fancynone 5b+ *4
16Libranone 5b 10
17Too Shortnone 5c 3
18Trainer Drainernone 5c *5
19Hanging Cracknone 5a **35
20Prowessnone 6b **1
21Nonpareilnone 6c *1
22Flake Cracknone 3a 11
23Sansaraf7A * 
24Bivouac Chimneynone 1b 2
25Geronimonone 4b 5
26Truncatenone 3a 7
27Parisian Affairnone 6a 18
28Too Short to Mentionnone 6a 5
29Even Shorter Mentionnone 6a 4
30Cave Chimneynone 2b 7
316.0 a.m. Routenone 4b 14
32Condom Cornernone 6b 6
33Dr. Kemp's Curenone 6a *2
 START OF BANNED AREA ***PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB ON THESE ROUTES***  
35Thin Laybacknone 5b *4
36Moments of Pleasurenone 6c * 
37Rotanone 4a ** 
38Demon Wallnone 5c **1
39Easy Lifenone 6b * 
40Enigmanone 6b *2
41Long Man's Neighbournone 4b *1
42Scirocconone 6b *1
 SANDSTORM BUTTRESS - THESE 3 ROUTES ARE ALLOWED, NO CHALK PLEASE  
44Sandstormnone 6a ***3
45The Crunchnone 6b ***1
46More Cake for Menone 6a ***2
 CONTINUATION OF BANNED AREA - *PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB THESE ROUTES*  
48Amphitheatre Cracknone 5b *1
49Flail Trailnone 6b *2
50Branchdownnone 5c *2
51Leechnone 5c *1
52Forgotton Cracknone 6a **1
53Smile of the Beyondnone 6b *1
54Locustnone 5c *1
55Higher Purchasenone 6b *1
 CLIMBING ALLOWED FROM HERE TO THE END OF ERIDGE TOWER...  
57Dusk Cracknone 4c *1
58Meaty Thighsnone 6b * 
59The Beguilednone 6b **2
60Snail Trailnone 6b **2
61Zugzwangnone 6b **1
62The leaff6B+ **10
63Turning The Leaff7B ***2
64Earthrisenone 6a *1
65Empty Veenone 6a  
66Brian's Cornernone 5c *3
67The Pillarnone 5c **20
68Waffer Thinnone 6b * 
69Obelisknone 6a **4
 Climb nameGradex
70Slanting Cracknone 4a 3
71Nigel Mantelnone 6a *1
72Stirling Mossnone 6a **10
73Scooped Slabnone 5b **27
74Afterburnernone 6a * 
75Mellow Tootnone 6a ** 
76Yellow Sootnone 6a * 
77Iron Man Tysonnone 6a * 
78Stem Sonnone 6a * 
79Lounone 6b ** 
80Backyardnone 4c *7
81Genesisnone 6a **8
82Steelmillnone 6a **9
83Touch Downnone 6a *3
84Scorpionnone 6a * 
85Problem No. 58f6A+ *2
86Problem No. 59f6A 3
87Problem No. 55f5 4
88Azazelf7A 8
89Lazy Chivenone 6b ** 
90Revelationsnone 6a **1
91Poofy Finger's Revengenone 6a **1
92Antoninusnone 5c *2
93Hadrian's Wallnone 5b **30
94Asterixnone 5c **14
95Fly by Knightnone 6a *6
96Remusnone 4c **70
97roman nosenone 5a 28
98romulusnone 5b *22
99Good Route...Poor Linenone 6a *1
100Good Route...Good Linenone 5c *18
101Layawaynone 5b 12
102Hipposuctionnone 5b *7
103Appetite for Destructionnone 6a *1
104Capstan Wallnone 4a 45
105Concordenone 5b *41
106Viking Linenone 5c **2
107Misty Wallnone 5b 3
108Ericnone 5a 5
109Life in the Old Dog Yetnone 6a  
110Fandangonone 5c *4
111Hartleysnone 4b 18
112Flutingsnone 4b 13
113Sonny Dribble Chopsnone 5b 3
114Elastic Headbandsnone 5b *3
115Barbican Buttressnone 4b **45
116Steamrollernone 6a *22
117Battlements Cracknone 5a ***56
118Portcullisnone 5c **34
 CLIMBING BANNED FROM HERE TO THE END.  
120Twin Slabsnone 5b *1
121Tiger Slabnone 4b *1
 LOCATION UNKNOWN  
123Claudius drops a clangernone ***1
124The Watchtowerf7B 6c 1
125Goat Ragef7C  
126Goat Rage Shortf7B  
127SS Boulder Problem 56 ssf6B **1
128SS Boulder Problem 67f6B **2
129SS Boulder Problem 42 ssf6B 2
130Just Causenone 4b 3
131Just CIAnone 5b 2
132Just Icenone 5b 2
133Descent Chimneynone 3b 1
134Boulder Chimneynone 2b 1
135Problem No. 66f4+ 1
136Problem No. 72 ssf5+ 1
137Problem No. 73f5 1
138Problem No. 74f6A 2
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Access notes
Climbing is allowed now on some parts of the crag - an access agreement has been negotiated with the owners - Sussex Wildlife Trust. Please read the Crag Features above for limitations. The Rocks are a SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest). Make sure you know where you are allowed to climb.

Take the A26 Tunbridge Wells-Crowborough rd; 4km S of Tunbridge Wells, Pass through Eridge and turn R onto a narrow lane by Eridge church. Drive for 200m past a small row of houses to a car park right next to the first main buttress.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Graham Ad

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
loads of top quality bouldering, but please keep the chalk to a minimum and only climb in the designated areas as stated on the sign in the car park. very unstable access at the moment.
ian h - 26/Nov/03