Climbs 192
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 120m a.s.l
Faces E

the watchtower © ian h

Crag features

Height varying between 5 and 10m. Variable quality, from lichenous and friable to clean and solid. Like other soft sandstone crags, either solo or use topropes with extended slings. Do not let ropes rub the rock. The bouldering here can be fantastic in late summer, when the shady aspect means it is cooler (and quieter) than Bowles or Harrisons. Very reminiscent of Font, especially at the Northern (RH) end of the crag.

Please note there are some areas where climbing is banned as part of the access agreement. You may climb on routes from the south end (by the car park) of the crag up to, and including, Dr. Kemp's Cure. From here, climbing is banned up to and including Higher Purchase. The exceptions are the three climbs 'Sandstorm', 'The Crunch' and 'More Cake For Me' where climbing is permitted but chalk is not allowed. Climbing is also banned from Moroccan Roll to the north end of the crag. Please respect the access conditions. If you see poor belaying methods please advise on the correct procedure. A carpet sample is very useful for cleaning your feet before you climb - this significantly reduces wear on the crag.

Approach notes

Climbing is allowed now on some parts of the crag - an access agreement has been negotiated with the owners - Sussex Wildlife Trust. Please read the Crag Features above for limitations. The Rocks are a SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest). Make sure you know where you are allowed to climb.
Take the A26 Tunbridge Wells-Crowborough rd; 4km S of Tunbridge Wells, Pass through Eridge and turn R onto a narrow lane by Eridge church. Drive for 200m past a small row of houses to a car park right next to the first main buttress.

Restricted Access

Most of the outcrop lies within a nature reserve owned by The Sussex Wildlife Trust (Tel. No. 01273 492630). Climbing is allowed on specific areas by agreement between the Trust and The BMC - drawn up so the rare plants and rock are conserved. This is the first agreement of its kind, so please help to make it work and ensure that climbing and wildlife can continue together. Please note the description of routes in the banned areas is purely for historical records (in case the details of the agreement should ever change), and does not imply they should be climbed. As well as adhering to the Sandstone Code of Practice, please observe the following: · Climbing is allowed from Heffalump to Dr Kemp’s Cure, from Sandstorm to More Cake for Me, and from Dusk Crack to Tower Girdle inclusive. Climbing outside these zones is forbidden. The area between Sandstorm and More Cake for Me is very sensitive, with many rare plants, so please be extra careful here. · Climbing by organised groups is not permitted. · Use of chalk is forbidden from Sandstorm to More Cake for Me inclusive. Please use chalk elsewhere as little as possible. Chalk changes the ph of these acid rocks and can seriously damage the lower-order plants. · Please minimise chalk use elsewhere. · Do not remove any greenery, whether vegetation or lower plants. When cleaning holds take care only to remove loose sand and debris. · The rock at the top of the blocks above the car-park (Equilibrium etc.) is extremely fragile and is scarred with deep rope-grooves. Please use a piece of old carpet to protect the rock from the belay rope (which is necessary as the trees are too far back for the use of slings). There are no bolts above the climbs. Although the trees are close to the edge, it is still necessary to take a static rope (12m is useful) for belays where the trees are some distance back - esp. for routes above the car park, the Fandango block and for Eridge Tower.

loads of top quality bouldering, but please keep the chalk to a minimum and only climb in the designated areas as stated on the sign in the car park. very unstable access at the moment.
ian h - 26/Nov/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Elephant's Boulder 
2Heffalumpnone 2a 3
3Diagonal
-
none 6b **1
4Y Crack
-
none 4c *5
5Goat Rage Extensionf7B+ 1
6I Don't Want to be a Goatf7B 1
7Lazy Chive
-
none 6b ** 
8Revelations
-
none 6a **2
9Why Not Go Right
-
none 5a 1
 Columnar Buttress 
11Hadrian's Wallnone 5b **47
12Columnar Buttress
-
none 4a 3
13Fenchurch
-
none 5c 1
 Road Side Rocks 
15Ashes and Dustf6B 1
16Step of Faithf6A 1
17Inland Empirenone 5b **1
 Car Park Crags 
19Siesta Wallnone 5b *26
20Innominate Crack
-
none 5b ***28
21Mammoth Wall
-
none 5b **5
22Equilibrium Wall
-
none 5b *43
23Hottie
-
none 6a *5
24Libra
-
none 5c 18
25Nuthin' Fancy
-
none 5c *7
26Trainer Drainer
-
none 5c *9
27Hanging Cracknone 5a **50
28Prowess
-
none 6b **4
29The Watchtowerf7B 7
30Bivouac Chimneynone 1b 8
31Sansaraf7A *2
32Truncatenone 3a 14
33Too Short
-
none 5c 8
34Parisian Affair
-
none 6a 38
35Too Short to Mention
-
none 6a 9
36Even Shorter Mention
-
none 6a 7
376.0 a.m. Route
-
none 4b 20
38Condom Corner
-
none 6b 8
39Dr. Kemp's Cure
-
none 6a *3
 Start of Banned Area ***please do not climb on these routes*** 
41Big Fat Tart
-
none 5b 10
42Nonpareil
-
none 6c *1
43Flake Crack
-
none 3a 16
44Nick's Tormentf7A **3
45Geronimonone 4b 9
46Tiger Moth
-
none 5a 1
47Twin Slabsnone 5b *2
48Cave Chimney
-
none 2b 10
49Tiger Slabnone 4b *2
50 Thin Laybacknone 5b *5
51Mosquito
-
none 4c 1
52 Moments of Pleasurenone 6c * 
53 Rotanone 4a **1
54 Demon Wallnone 5c **2
55 Easy Lifenone 6b * 
56 Enigmanone 6b *2
57 Long Man's Neighbournone 4b *2
58 Locustnone 5c *1
59 Scirocconone 6b *1
 Sandstorm Buttress - these 3 routes are allowed, NO CHALK PLEASE 
61Sandstormnone 6a ***3
62The Crunchnone 6b ***1
63More Cake for Menone 6a ***2
64Claudius drops a clanger
-
none *1
65Descent Chimneynone 3b 1
 Continuation of Banned area - *please do not climb these routes* 
67Boulder Chimneynone 2b 3
68 Amphitheatre Cracknone 5b *1
69The Read Linef7C+ 1
70 Flail Trailnone 6b *2
71Indian Traversef7A * 
72 Branchdownnone 5c *2
73Elephant's Tail
-
none 3b 2
74 Leechnone 5c *1
75Elephant's Arse
-
none 6a  
76 Forgotton Cracknone 6a **1
77Elephant's Head
-
none 5c 2
78 Smile of the Beyondnone 6b *1
79Trunk Route
-
none 3a 1
80Beaten To It
-
none 3b 1
81 Higher Purchasenone 6b *1
82Its Pub-o-Clock
-
none 5a 1
 Climbing allowed from here to the end of Eridge Tower... 
84Primrose
-
none 4c 2
85Dusk Crack
-
none 4c *4
86The Beguiled
-
none 6b **2
87Meaty Thighs
-
none 6b * 
88Close to You
-
none 6a 1
89Last of the Summer Wine
-
none 5c 1
90Judamomdonone 6c 2
91The Slab
-
none 3b 2
92Snail Trail
-
none 6b **2
93Tree Climb
-
none 4c 1
94Zugzwang
-
none 6b **1
95The leaff6B+ **28
96Turning The Leaff7B ***4
97Bulging Corner
-
none 5c 1
98Jack Strongf7B+ 1
99Long Man's Slab
-
none 5b 1
100Amphitheatre Chimney
-
none 3a 1
101Patiencef7A+ 1
102Greasy Slab
-
none 3b 1
103The Exit Cracks
-
none 5c 1
104Black Crack
-
none 3b 1
105Waffer Thin
-
none 6b * 
106Toadstool Crack
-
none 4a 1
107Green Bollard Chimney
-
none 3a 1
108Slanting Crack
-
none 4a 4
109Beginners' Wall
-
none 4c 1
110Earthrise
-
none 6a *2
111Empty Veenone 6a  
112Hypersonicf7B+ 2
113Brian's Corner
-
none 5c *5
114The Pillar
-
none 5c **24
115Obelisk
-
none 6a **8
116Mein Herr
-
none 6a 1
117Nigel Mantel
-
none 6a *1
118Stirling Mossnone 6a **13
119Bugbear Buttress
-
none 5a 1
120Scooped Slab
-
none 5b **40
121Fruits
-
none 5c 1
122Afterburner
-
none 6a *2
123Keystone Face
-
none 4c 1
124Mellow Toot
-
none 6a ** 
125Keystone Crack
-
none 1b 1
126Yellow Soot
-
none 6a * 
127Keystone Wall
-
none 3b 1
128Iron Man Tyson
-
none 6a *1
129'Hyphenated' Jones
-
none 6a 1
130Short Work
-
none 5c 1
131Lou
-
none 6b ** 
132Wobble
-
none 5b 1
133Jude's Wallnone 6c  
134Pedestal Wall
-
none 4b 1
135Stem Son
-
none 6a * 
136Elastic Headbands
-
none 5b *5
137Just Causenone 4b 4
138Just Icenone 5b 3
139Just CIAnone 5b 3
140Genesisnone 6a **17
141Steelmillnone 6a **12
142Touch Downnone 6a *4
143Scorpion
-
none 6a * 
144Poofy Finger's Revengenone 6a **2
145Antoninus
-
none 5c *4
146Asterixnone 5c **21
147Fly by Knight
-
none 6a *11
148Remus
-
none 4c **94
149roman nosenone 5a 42
150romulusnone 5b *28
151Good Route...Poor Line
-
none 6a *3
152Good Route...Good Line
-
none 5c *32
153Layaway
-
none 5b 20
154Hipposuction
-
none 5b *10
155Appetite for Destructionnone 6a *2
156Capstan Wallnone 4a 61
157Concordenone 5b *56
158Crackpot
-
none 4b 1
159Viking Linenone 5c **6
160Misty Wallnone 5b 3
161Ericnone 5a 9
162Life in the Old Dog Yetnone 6a 4
163Fandangonone 6a **10
164Cameo
-
none 4b  
165Backyard
-
none 4c *10
166Honest Toil
-
none 4a 1
167Green Crack
-
none 2b 1
168Gully Rib
-
none 3b 1
169Urrrgh!
-
none 3b 1
170Cave Corner
-
none 5a 1
171Azazelf7A 24
172Hartleys
-
none 4b 21
173Paisleynone 5b 1
174Flutings
-
none 4b 18
175Sonny Dribble Chops
-
none 5b 5
176Cave Climb
-
none 5b 1
177Shanty Wall
-
none 5a 1
178Barbican Buttress
-
none 4b **65
179Optical Racer
-
none 5b 4
180Steamrollernone 6a *34
181Battlements Cracknone 5a ***86
182Portcullisnone 5c **50
183Goat Ragef7C 2
184Goat Rage Shortf7B  
185Joshuaf7B 1
186Lord of the Lightf6B+ 1
 Climbing banned from here to the end. 
 SS Boulder Guide Problems 
189SS Boulder Problem 42 ssf6B 5
190Problem No. 55f5 10
191SS Boulder Problem 56 ssf6B **3
192Problem No. 58f6A+ *4
193Problem No. 59f6A 3
194Problem No. 66f4+ 2
195SS Boulder Problem 67f6B **4
196Problem No. 72 ssf5+ 2
197Problem No. 73f5 2
198Problem No. 74f6A 2
199Nightfall
-
V9 ***1
200Arete Left of Samsara (Name Unknown)f6B ** 
201Velcro Wallf7B+ 1
202Stampyf7B+ 1
 Location Unclear - please add a better description / location. 

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