Climbs 189
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 120m a.s.l
Faces E

the watchtower © ian h

Crag features

Height varying between 5 and 10m. Variable quality, from lichenous and friable to clean and solid. Like other soft sandstone crags, either solo or use topropes with extended slings. Do not let ropes rub the rock. The bouldering here can be fantastic in late summer, when the shady aspect means it is cooler (and quieter) than Bowles or Harrisons. Very reminiscent of Font, especially at the Northern (RH) end of the crag.

Please note there are some areas where climbing is banned as part of the access agreement. You may climb on routes from the south end (by the car park) of the crag up to, and including, Dr. Kemp's Cure. From here, climbing is banned up to and including Higher Purchase. The exceptions are the three climbs 'Sandstorm', 'The Crunch' and 'More Cake For Me' where climbing is permitted but chalk is not allowed. Climbing is also banned from Moroccan Roll to the north end of the crag. Please respect the access conditions. If you see poor belaying methods please advise on the correct procedure. A carpet sample is very useful for cleaning your feet before you climb - this significantly reduces wear on the crag.

Approach notes

Climbing is allowed now on some parts of the crag - an access agreement has been negotiated with the owners - Sussex Wildlife Trust. Please read the Crag Features above for limitations. The Rocks are a SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest). Make sure you know where you are allowed to climb.
Take the A26 Tunbridge Wells-Crowborough rd; 4km S of Tunbridge Wells, Pass through Eridge and turn R onto a narrow lane by Eridge church. Drive for 200m past a small row of houses to a car park right next to the first main buttress.

Restricted Access

Most of the outcrop lies within a nature reserve owned by The Sussex Wildlife Trust (Tel. No. 01273 492630). Climbing is allowed on specific areas by agreement between the Trust and The BMC - drawn up so the rare plants and rock are conserved. This is the first agreement of its kind, so please help to make it work and ensure that climbing and wildlife can continue together. Please note the description of routes in the banned areas is purely for historical records (in case the details of the agreement should ever change), and does not imply they should be climbed. As well as adhering to the Sandstone Code of Practice, please observe the following: · Climbing is allowed from Heffalump to Dr Kemp’s Cure, from Sandstorm to More Cake for Me, and from Dusk Crack to Tower Girdle inclusive. Climbing outside these zones is forbidden. The area between Sandstorm and More Cake for Me is very sensitive, with many rare plants, so please be extra careful here. · Climbing by organised groups is not permitted. · Use of chalk is forbidden from Sandstorm to More Cake for Me inclusive. Please use chalk elsewhere as little as possible. Chalk changes the ph of these acid rocks and can seriously damage the lower-order plants. · Please minimise chalk use elsewhere. · Do not remove any greenery, whether vegetation or lower plants. When cleaning holds take care only to remove loose sand and debris. · The rock at the top of the blocks above the car-park (Equilibrium etc.) is extremely fragile and is scarred with deep rope-grooves. Please use a piece of old carpet to protect the rock from the belay rope (which is necessary as the trees are too far back for the use of slings). There are no bolts above the climbs. Although the trees are close to the edge, it is still necessary to take a static rope (12m is useful) for belays where the trees are some distance back - esp. for routes above the car park, the Fandango block and for Eridge Tower.

loads of top quality bouldering, but please keep the chalk to a minimum and only climb in the designated areas as stated on the sign in the car park. very unstable access at the moment.
ian h - 26/Nov/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Elephant's Boulder 
2Heffalumpnone 2a 3
3Diagonal
-
none 6b **1
4Y Crack
-
none 4c *5
5Goat Rage Extensionf7B+ 1
6I Don't Want to be a Goatf7B 1
7Lazy Chive
-
none 6b ** 
8Revelations
-
none 6a **2
9Why Not Go Right
-
none 5a 1
 Columnar Buttress 
11Hadrian's Wallnone 5b **47
12Columnar Buttress
-
none 4a 3
13Fenchurch
-
none 5c 1
 Road Side Rocks 
15Ashes and Dustf6B 1
16Inland Empirenone 5b **1
 Car Park Crags 
18Equilibrium Wall
-
none 5b *43
19Mammoth Wall
-
none 5b **5
20Siesta Wallnone 5b *26
21Hottie
-
none 6a *5
22Libra
-
none 5c 18
23Nuthin' Fancy
-
none 5c *7
24Trainer Drainer
-
none 5c *9
25Hanging Cracknone 5a **50
26Prowess
-
none 6b **4
27The Watchtowerf7B 7
28Bivouac Chimneynone 1b 7
29Sansaraf7A *2
30Truncatenone 3a 14
31Too Short
-
none 5c 8
32Parisian Affair
-
none 6a 38
33Too Short to Mention
-
none 6a 9
34Even Shorter Mention
-
none 6a 7
356.0 a.m. Route
-
none 4b 20
36Condom Corner
-
none 6b 8
37Dr. Kemp's Cure
-
none 6a *3
38Innominate Crack
-
none 5b ***28
39Big Fat Tart
-
none 5b 10
40Nonpareil
-
none 6c *1
41Hartleys
-
none 4b 21
42Flake Crack
-
none 3a 16
43Nick's Tormentf7A **3
44Geronimonone 4b 9
45Tiger Moth
-
none 5a 1
46Twin Slabsnone 5b *2
47Cave Chimney
-
none 2b 9
48Tiger Slabnone 4b *2
 Start of Banned Area ***please do not climb on these routes*** 
50 Thin Laybacknone 5b *5
51Mosquito
-
none 4c 1
52 Moments of Pleasurenone 6c * 
53 Rotanone 4a **1
54 Demon Wallnone 5c **2
55 Easy Lifenone 6b * 
56 Enigmanone 6b *2
57 Long Man's Neighbournone 4b *2
58 Locustnone 5c *1
59 Scirocconone 6b *1
 Sandstorm Buttress - these 3 routes are allowed, NO CHALK PLEASE 
61Sandstormnone 6a ***3
62The Crunchnone 6b ***1
63More Cake for Menone 6a ***2
 Location Unclear - please add a better description / location. 
65Claudius drops a clanger
-
none *1
66Descent Chimneynone 3b 1
 Continuation of Banned area - *please do not climb these routes* 
68Boulder Chimneynone 2b 2
69 Amphitheatre Cracknone 5b *1
70The Read Linef7C+ 1
71 Flail Trailnone 6b *2
72Indian Traversef7A * 
73 Branchdownnone 5c *2
74Elephant's Tail
-
none 3b 2
75 Leechnone 5c *1
76Elephant's Arse
-
none 6a  
77 Forgotton Cracknone 6a **1
78Elephant's Head
-
none 5c 2
79 Smile of the Beyondnone 6b *1
80Trunk Route
-
none 3a 1
81Beaten To It
-
none 3b 1
82 Higher Purchasenone 6b *1
83Its Pub-o-Clock
-
none 5a 1
 Climbing allowed from here to the end of Eridge Tower... 
85Primrose
-
none 4c 2
86Dusk Crack
-
none 4c *4
87The Beguiled
-
none 6b **2
88Meaty Thighs
-
none 6b * 
89Close to You
-
none 6a 1
90Last of the Summer Wine
-
none 5c 1
91Judamomdonone 6c 2
92The Slab
-
none 3b 2
93Snail Trail
-
none 6b **2
94Tree Climb
-
none 4c 1
95Zugzwang
-
none 6b **1
96The leaff6B+ **23
97Turning The Leaff7B ***4
98Bulging Corner
-
none 5c 1
99Jack Strongf7B+ 1
100Long Man's Slab
-
none 5b 1
101Amphitheatre Chimney
-
none 3a 1
102Patiencef7A+ 1
103Greasy Slab
-
none 3b 1
104The Exit Cracks
-
none 5c 1
105Black Crack
-
none 3b 1
106Waffer Thin
-
none 6b * 
107Toadstool Crack
-
none 4a 1
108Green Bollard Chimney
-
none 3a 1
109Slanting Crack
-
none 4a 4
110Beginners' Wall
-
none 4c 1
111Earthrise
-
none 6a *2
112Empty Veenone 6a  
113Hypersonicf7B+ 2
114Brian's Corner
-
none 5c *5
115The Pillar
-
none 5c **24
116Obelisk
-
none 6a **8
117Mein Herr
-
none 6a 1
118Nigel Mantel
-
none 6a *1
119Stirling Mossnone 6a **13
120Bugbear Buttress
-
none 5a 1
121Scooped Slab
-
none 5b **40
122Fruits
-
none 5c 1
123Afterburner
-
none 6a *2
124Keystone Face
-
none 4c 1
125Mellow Toot
-
none 6a ** 
126Keystone Crack
-
none 1b 1
127Yellow Soot
-
none 6a * 
128Keystone Wall
-
none 3b 1
129Iron Man Tyson
-
none 6a *1
130'Hyphenated' Jones
-
none 6a 1
131Short Work
-
none 5c 1
132Lou
-
none 6b ** 
133Wobble
-
none 5b 1
134Jude's Wallnone 6c  
135Pedestal Wall
-
none 4b 1
136Stem Son
-
none 6a * 
137Elastic Headbands
-
none 5b *5
138Just Causenone 4b 4
139Just Icenone 5b 3
140Just CIAnone 5b 3
141Genesisnone 6a **17
142Steelmillnone 6a **12
143Touch Downnone 6a *4
144Scorpion
-
none 6a * 
145Poofy Finger's Revengenone 6a **2
146Antoninus
-
none 5c *4
147Asterixnone 5c **21
148Fly by Knight
-
none 6a *11
149Remus
-
none 4c **93
150roman nosenone 5a 40
151romulusnone 5b *28
152Good Route...Poor Line
-
none 6a *3
153Good Route...Good Line
-
none 5c *31
154Layaway
-
none 5b 19
155Hipposuction
-
none 5b *10
156Appetite for Destructionnone 6a *2
157Capstan Wallnone 4a 59
158Concordenone 5b *54
159Crackpot
-
none 4b 1
160Viking Linenone 5c **6
161Misty Wallnone 5b 3
162Ericnone 5a 9
163Life in the Old Dog Yetnone 6a 4
164Fandangonone 6a **10
165Cameo
-
none 4b  
166Backyard
-
none 4c *10
167Honest Toil
-
none 4a 1
168Green Crack
-
none 2b 1
169Gully Rib
-
none 3b 1
170Urrrgh!
-
none 3b 1
171Cave Corner
-
none 5a 1
172Azazelf7A 23
173Paisleynone 5b 1
174Flutings
-
none 4b 18
175Sonny Dribble Chops
-
none 5b 5
176Cave Climb
-
none 5b 1
177Shanty Wall
-
none 5a 1
178Barbican Buttress
-
none 4b **64
179Optical Racer
-
none 5b 4
180Steamrollernone 6a *34
181Battlements Cracknone 5a ***85
182Portcullisnone 5c **50
183Goat Ragef7C 2
184Goat Rage Shortf7B  
185Joshuaf7B 1
186Lord of the Lightf6B+ 1
 Climbing banned from here to the end. 
 SS Boulder Guide Problems 
189SS Boulder Problem 42 ssf6B 5
190Problem No. 55f5 10
191SS Boulder Problem 56 ssf6B **3
192Problem No. 58f6A+ *4
193Problem No. 59f6A 3
194Problem No. 66f4+ 2
195SS Boulder Problem 67f6B **4
196Problem No. 72 ssf5+ 2
197Problem No. 73f5 2
198Problem No. 74f6A 2
199Nightfall
-
V9 ***1
200Arete Left of Samsara (Name Unknown)f6B ** 

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