Climbs 140
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 120m a.s.l
Faces E

Night Climbing photograph. © neal grundy

Crag features

Height varying between 5 and 10m. Variable quality, from lichenous and friable to clean and solid. Like other soft sandstone crags, either solo or use topropes with extended slings. Do not let ropes rub the rock. The bouldering here can be fantastic in late summer, when the shady aspect means it is cooler (and quieter) than Bowles or Harrisons. Very reminiscent of Font, especially at the Northern (RH) end of the crag.

Please note there are some areas where climbing is banned as part of the access agreement. You may climb on routes from the south end (by the car park) of the crag up to, and including, Dr. Kemp's Cure. From here, climbing is banned up to and including Higher Purchase. The exceptions are the three climbs 'Sandstorm', 'The Crunch' and 'More Cake For Me' where climbing is permitted but chalk is not allowed. Climbing is also banned from Moroccan Roll to the north end of the crag. Please respect the access conditions. If you see poor belaying methods please advise on the correct procedure. A carpet sample is very useful for cleaning your feet before you climb - this significantly reduces wear on the crag.

Approach notes

Climbing is allowed now on some parts of the crag - an access agreement has been negotiated with the owners - Sussex Wildlife Trust. Please read the Crag Features above for limitations. The Rocks are a SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest). Make sure you know where you are allowed to climb.

Take the A26 Tunbridge Wells-Crowborough rd; 4km S of Tunbridge Wells, Pass through Eridge and turn R onto a narrow lane by Eridge church. Drive for 200m past a small row of houses to a car park right next to the first main buttress.

Access Advice

Most of the outcrop lies within a nature reserve owned by The Sussex Wildlife Trust (Tel. No. 01273 492630). Climbing is allowed on specific areas by agreement between the Trust and The BMC - drawn up so the rare plants and rock are conserved. This is the first agreement of its kind, so please help to make it work and ensure that climbing and wildlife can continue together. Please note the description of routes in the banned areas is purely for historical records (in case the details of the agreement should ever change), and does not imply they should be climbed. As well as adhering to the Sandstone Code of Practice, please observe the following: · Climbing is allowed from Heffalump to Dr Kemp’s Cure, from Sandstorm to More Cake for Me, and from Dusk Crack to Tower Girdle inclusive. Climbing outside these zones is forbidden. The area between Sandstorm and More Cake for Me is very sensitive, with many rare plants, so please be extra careful here. · Climbing by organised groups is not permitted. · Use of chalk is forbidden from Sandstorm to More Cake for Me inclusive. Please use chalk elsewhere as little as possible. Chalk changes the ph of these acid rocks and can seriously damage the lower-order plants. · Please minimise chalk use elsewhere. · Do not remove any greenery, whether vegetation or lower plants. When cleaning holds take care only to remove loose sand and debris. · The rock at the top of the blocks above the car-park (Equilibrium etc.) is extremely fragile and is scarred with deep rope-grooves. Please use a piece of old carpet to protect the rock from the belay rope (which is necessary as the trees are too far back for the use of slings). There are no bolts above the climbs. Although the trees are close to the edge, it is still necessary to take a static rope (12m is useful) for belays where the trees are some distance back - esp. for routes above the car park, the Fandango block and for Eridge Tower.

loads of top quality bouldering, but please keep the chalk to a minimum and only climb in the designated areas as stated on the sign in the car park. very unstable access at the moment.
ian h - 26/Nov/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Elephant's Boulder 
2Heffalumpnone 2a 2
3Diagonal
-
none 6b **1
4Y Crack
-
none 4c *3
5Why Not Go Right
-
none 5a 1
 Columnar Buttress 
7Columnar Buttress
-
none 4a 1
 Car Park Crags 
9Mammoth Wall
-
none 5b **3
10Siesta Wallnone 5b *23
11Innominate Crack
-
none 5b ***24
12Big Fat Tart
-
none 5b 8
13Equilibrium Wall
-
none 5b *35
14Hottie
-
none 6a *3
15Nuthin' Fancy
-
none 5c *5
16Libra
-
none 5c 13
17Too Short
-
none 5c 3
18Trainer Drainer
-
none 5c *5
19Hanging Cracknone 5a **40
20The Watchtowerf7B 4
21Prowess
-
none 6b **1
22Nonpareil
-
none 6c *1
23Flake Crack
-
none 3a 14
24Nick's Tormentf7A **2
25Sansaraf7A *1
26Bivouac Chimneynone 1b 6
27Geronimonone 4b 8
28Truncatenone 3a 12
29Parisian Affair
-
none 6a 27
30Too Short to Mention
-
none 6a 7
31Even Shorter Mention
-
none 6a 6
32Cave Chimney
-
none 2b 8
336.0 a.m. Route
-
none 4b 18
34Condom Corner
-
none 6b 6
35Dr. Kemp's Cure
-
none 6a *2
 Start of Banned Area ***please do not climb on these routes*** 
37 Thin Laybacknone 5b *4
38 Moments of Pleasurenone 6c * 
39 Rotanone 4a ** 
40 Demon Wallnone 5c **1
41 Easy Lifenone 6b * 
42 Enigmanone 6b *2
43 Long Man's Neighbournone 4b *1
44 Scirocconone 6b *1
 Sandstorm Buttress - these 3 routes are allowed, NO CHALK PLEASE 
46Sandstormnone 6a ***3
47The Crunchnone 6b ***1
48More Cake for Menone 6a ***2
 Continuation of Banned area - *please do not climb these routes* 
50 Amphitheatre Cracknone 5b *1
51 Flail Trailnone 6b *2
52 Branchdownnone 5c *2
53 Leechnone 5c *1
54 Forgotton Cracknone 6a **1
55 Smile of the Beyondnone 6b *1
56 Locustnone 5c *1
57 Higher Purchasenone 6b *1
 Climbing allowed from here to the end of Eridge Tower... 
59Dusk Crack
-
none 4c *3
60Meaty Thighs
-
none 6b * 
61The Beguiled
-
none 6b **2
62Judamomdonone 6c  
63Snail Trail
-
none 6b **2
64Zugzwang
-
none 6b **1
65The leaff6B+ **17
66Turning The Leaff7B ***4
67Earthrise
-
none 6a *1
68Hypersonicf7B+ 2
69Empty Veenone 6a  
70Brian's Corner
-
none 5c *3
71The Pillar
-
none 5c **23
72Waffer Thin
-
none 6b * 
73Obelisk
-
none 6a **5
74Slanting Crack
-
none 4a 4
75Nigel Mantel
-
none 6a *1
76Stirling Mossnone 6a **12
77Scooped Slab
-
none 5b **32
78Afterburner
-
none 6a * 
79Mellow Toot
-
none 6a ** 
80Yellow Soot
-
none 6a * 
81Iron Man Tyson
-
none 6a * 
82Stem Son
-
none 6a * 
83Lou
-
none 6b ** 
84Jude's Wallnone 6c  
85Just CIAnone 5b 2
86Just Icenone 5b 2
87Just Causenone 4b 3
88Backyard
-
none 4c *8
89Genesisnone 6a **11
90Steelmillnone 6a **9
91Touch Downnone 6a *3
92Scorpion
-
none 6a * 
93Jack Strongf7B+ 1
94Azazelf7A 13
95Goat Ragef7C 2
96Goat Rage Shortf7B  
97Goat Rage Extensionf7B+ 1
98I Don't Want to be a Goatf7B 1
99Lazy Chive
-
none 6b ** 
100Revelations
-
none 6a **2
101Poofy Finger's Revengenone 6a **2
102Antoninus
-
none 5c *3
103Hadrian's Wallnone 5b **36
104Asterixnone 5c **16
105Fly by Knight
-
none 6a *6
106Remus
-
none 4c **80
107roman nosenone 5a 33
108romulusnone 5b *24
109Good Route...Poor Line
-
none 6a *1
110Good Route...Good Line
-
none 5c *21
111Layaway
-
none 5b 14
112Hipposuction
-
none 5b *8
113Appetite for Destructionnone 6a *1
114Capstan Wallnone 4a 51
115Concordenone 5b *46
116Viking Linenone 5c **2
117Misty Wallnone 5b 3
118Ericnone 5a 6
119Life in the Old Dog Yetnone 6a 1
120Fandangonone 6a **6
121Hartleys
-
none 4b 19
122Flutings
-
none 4b 15
123Sonny Dribble Chops
-
none 5b 4
124Elastic Headbands
-
none 5b *4
125Barbican Buttress
-
none 4b **53
126Steamrollernone 6a *28
127Battlements Cracknone 5a ***69
128Portcullisnone 5c **42
 Climbing banned from here to the end. 
130Twin Slabsnone 5b *1
131Tiger Slabnone 4b *1
 SS Boulder Guide Problems 
133SS Boulder Problem 42 ssf6B 3
134Problem No. 55f5 6
135SS Boulder Problem 56 ssf6B **2
136Problem No. 58f6A+ *3
137Problem No. 59f6A 3
138Problem No. 66f4+ 2
139SS Boulder Problem 67f6B **3
140Problem No. 72 ssf5+ 2
141Problem No. 73f5 2
142Problem No. 74f6A 2
143Ashes and Dustf6B 1
144Nightfall
-
V9 ***1
 Location Unclear - please add a better description / location. 
146Claudius drops a clanger
-
none *1
147Descent Chimneynone 3b 1
148Boulder Chimneynone 2b 1
149The Read Linef7C+ 1
150Indian Traversef7A * 

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