Eridge Green Rocks

Climbs 139 – Rocktype Sandstone (soft) – Altitude 120m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Height varying between 5 and 10m. Variable quality, from lichenous and friable to clean and solid. Like other soft sandstone crags, either solo or use topropes with extended slings. Do not let ropes rub the rock. The bouldering here can be fantastic in late summer, when the shady aspect means it is cooler (and quieter) than Bowles or Harrisons. Very reminiscent of Font, especially at the Northern (RH) end of the crag.

Please note there are some areas where climbing is banned as part of the access agreement. You may climb on routes from the south end (by the car park) of the crag up to, and including, Dr. Kemp's Cure. From here, climbing is banned up to and including Higher Purchase. The exceptions are the three climbs 'Sandstorm', 'The Crunch' and 'More Cake For Me' where climbing is permitted but chalk is not allowed. Climbing is also banned from Moroccan Roll to the north end of the crag. Please respect the access conditions. If you see poor belaying methods please advise on the correct procedure. A carpet sample is very useful for cleaning your feet before you climb - this significantly reduces wear on the crag.

Approach notes
Climbing is allowed now on some parts of the crag - an access agreement has been negotiated with the owners - Sussex Wildlife Trust. Please read the Crag Features above for limitations. The Rocks are a SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest). Make sure you know where you are allowed to climb.

Take the A26 Tunbridge Wells-Crowborough rd; 4km S of Tunbridge Wells, Pass through Eridge and turn R onto a narrow lane by Eridge church. Drive for 200m past a small row of houses to a car park right next to the first main buttress.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Southern sandstone bouldering (2012), Southern Sandstone (2008),
Out of print: Southern Sandstone (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 ELEPHANT'S BOULDER  
2Heffalumpnone 2a 2
3Diagonalnone 6b **1
4Y Cracknone 4c *3
5Why Not Go Rightnone 5a 1
 COLUMNAR BUTTRESS  
7Columnar Buttressnone 4a 1
 CAR PARK CRAGS  
9Mammoth Wallnone 5b **3
10Siesta Wallnone 5b *22
11Innominate Cracknone 5b ***23
12Big Fat Tartnone 5b 7
13Equilibrium Wallnone 5b *35
14Hottienone 6a *3
15Nuthin' Fancynone 5b+ *5
16Libranone 5b 12
17Too Shortnone 5c 3
18Trainer Drainernone 5c *5
19Hanging Cracknone 5a **39
20The Watchtowerf7B 6c 4
21Prowessnone 6b **1
22Nonpareilnone 6c *1
23Flake Cracknone 3a 13
24Nick's Tormentf7A **2
25Sansaraf7A *1
26Bivouac Chimneynone 1b 4
27Geronimonone 4b 8
28Truncatenone 3a 10
29Parisian Affairnone 6a 27
30Too Short to Mentionnone 6a 7
31Even Shorter Mentionnone 6a 6
32Cave Chimneynone 2b 7
336.0 a.m. Routenone 4b 16
34Condom Cornernone 6b 6
35Dr. Kemp's Curenone 6a *2
 START OF BANNED AREA ***PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB ON THESE ROUTES***  
37 Thin Laybacknone 5b *4
38 Moments of Pleasurenone 6c * 
39 Rotanone 4a ** 
40 Demon Wallnone 5c **1
41 Easy Lifenone 6b * 
42 Enigmanone 6b *2
43 Long Man's Neighbournone 4b *1
44 Scirocconone 6b *1
 SANDSTORM BUTTRESS - THESE 3 ROUTES ARE ALLOWED, NO CHALK PLEASE  
46Sandstormnone 6a ***3
47The Crunchnone 6b ***1
48More Cake for Menone 6a ***2
 CONTINUATION OF BANNED AREA - *PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB THESE ROUTES*  
50 Amphitheatre Cracknone 5b *1
51 Flail Trailnone 6b *2
52 Branchdownnone 5c *2
53 Leechnone 5c *1
54 Forgotton Cracknone 6a **1
55 Smile of the Beyondnone 6b *1
56 Locustnone 5c *1
57 Higher Purchasenone 6b *1
 CLIMBING ALLOWED FROM HERE TO THE END OF ERIDGE TOWER...  
59Dusk Cracknone 4c *3
60Meaty Thighsnone 6b * 
61The Beguilednone 6b **2
62Judamomdonone 6c  
63Snail Trailnone 6b **2
64Zugzwangnone 6b **1
65The leaff6B+ **16
66Turning The Leaff7B ***4
67Earthrisenone 6a *1
68Hypersonicf7B+ 2
69Empty Veenone 6a  
70Brian's Cornernone 5c *3
71The Pillarnone 5c **23
72Waffer Thinnone 6b * 
73Obelisknone 6a **5
74Slanting Cracknone 4a 3
75Nigel Mantelnone 6a *1
76Stirling Mossnone 6a **12
77Scooped Slabnone 5b **31
78Afterburnernone 6a * 
79Mellow Tootnone 6a ** 
80Yellow Sootnone 6a * 
81Iron Man Tysonnone 6a * 
82Stem Sonnone 6a * 
83Lounone 6b ** 
84Jude's Wallnone 6c  
85Just CIAnone 5b 2
86Just Icenone 5b 2
87Just Causenone 4b 3
88Backyardnone 4c *7
89Genesisnone 6a **11
90Steelmillnone 6a **9
91Touch Downnone 6a *3
92Scorpionnone 6a * 
93Azazelf7A 13
94I Don't Want to be a Goatf7B 1
95Lazy Chivenone 6b ** 
96Revelationsnone 6a **2
97Poofy Finger's Revengenone 6a **2
98Antoninusnone 5c *3
99Hadrian's Wallnone 5b **36
100Asterixnone 5c **15
101Fly by Knightnone 6a *6
102Remusnone 4c **77
103roman nosenone 5a 32
104romulusnone 5b *23
105Good Route...Poor Linenone 6a *1
106Good Route...Good Linenone 5c *21
107Layawaynone 5b 13
108Hipposuctionnone 5b *8
109Appetite for Destructionnone 6a *1
110Capstan Wallnone 4a 50
111Concordenone 5b *46
112Viking Linenone 5c **2
113Misty Wallnone 5b 3
114Ericnone 5a 6
115Life in the Old Dog Yetnone 6a 1
116Fandangonone 6a **6
117Hartleysnone 4b 19
118Flutingsnone 4b 14
119Sonny Dribble Chopsnone 5b 4
120Elastic Headbandsnone 5b *4
121Barbican Buttressnone 4b **51
122Steamrollernone 6a *27
123Battlements Cracknone 5a ***66
124Portcullisnone 5c **41
 CLIMBING BANNED FROM HERE TO THE END.  
126Twin Slabsnone 5b *1
127Tiger Slabnone 4b *1
 SS BOULDER GUIDE PROBLEMS  
129SS Boulder Problem 42 ssf6B 3
130Problem No. 55f5 6
131SS Boulder Problem 56 ssf6B **2
132Problem No. 58f6A+ *3
133Problem No. 59f6A 3
134Problem No. 66f4+ 2
135SS Boulder Problem 67f6B **3
136Problem No. 72 ssf5+ 2
137Problem No. 73f5 2
138Problem No. 74f6A 2
139Ashes and Dustf6B 1
140NightfallV9 fb 7c ***1
 LOCATION UNCLEAR - PLEASE ADD A BETTER DESCRIPTION.  
142Claudius drops a clangernone *1
143Goat Rage Shortf7B  
144Descent Chimneynone 3b 1
145Boulder Chimneynone 2b 1
146The Read Linef7C+ 1
147Goat Ragef7C 2
148Indian Traversef7A * 
149Goat Rage Extensionf7B+ 1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
loads of top quality bouldering, but please keep the chalk to a minimum and only climb in the designated areas as stated on the sign in the car park. very unstable access at the moment.
ian h - 26/Nov/03