Eridge Green Rocks

Climbs 132 – Rocktype Sandstone (soft) – Altitude 120m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Height varying between 5 and 10m. Variable quality, from lichenous and friable to clean and solid. Like other soft sandstone crags, either solo or use topropes with extended slings. Do not let ropes rub the rock. The bouldering here can be fantastic in late summer, when the shady aspect means it is cooler (and quieter) than Bowles or Harrisons. Very reminiscent of Font, especially at the Northern (RH) end of the crag.

Please note there are some areas where climbing is banned as part of the access agreement. You may climb on routes from the south end (by the car park) of the crag up to, and including, Dr. Kemp's Cure. From here, climbing is banned up to and including Higher Purchase. The exceptions are the three climbs 'Sandstorm', 'The Crunch' and 'More Cake For Me' where climbing is permitted but chalk is not allowed. Climbing is also banned from Moroccan Roll to the north end of the crag. Please respect the access conditions. If you see poor belaying methods please advise on the correct procedure. A carpet sample is very useful for cleaning your feet before you climb - this significantly reduces wear on the crag.

Access notes
Climbing is allowed now on some parts of the crag - an access agreement has been negotiated with the owners - Sussex Wildlife Trust. Please read the Crag Features above for limitations. The Rocks are a SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest). Make sure you know where you are allowed to climb.

Take the A26 Tunbridge Wells-Crowborough rd; 4km S of Tunbridge Wells, Pass through Eridge and turn R onto a narrow lane by Eridge church. Drive for 200m past a small row of houses to a car park right next to the first main buttress.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Southern sandstone bouldering (2012), Southern Sandstone (2008),
Out of print: Southern Sandstone (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 ELEPHANT'S BOULDER 
2Heffalumpnone 2a
3Diagonalnone 6b **
4Y Cracknone 4c *
5Why Not Go Rightnone 5a
 COLUMNAR BUTTRESS 
7Columnar Buttressnone 4a
 CAR PARK CRAGS 
9Mammoth Wallnone 5b **
10Siesta Wallnone 5b *
11Innominate Cracknone 5b ***
12Big Fat Tartnone 5b
13Equilibrium Wallnone 5b *
14Hottienone 6a *
15Nuthin' Fancynone 5b+ *
16Libranone 5b
17Too Shortnone 5c
18Trainer Drainernone 5c *
19Hanging Cracknone 5a **
20The Watchtowerf7B 6c
21Prowessnone 6b **
22Nonpareilnone 6c *
23Flake Cracknone 3a
24Nick's Tormentf7A **
25Sansaraf7A *
26Bivouac Chimneynone 1b
27Geronimonone 4b
28Truncatenone 3a
29Parisian Affairnone 6a
30Too Short to Mentionnone 6a
31Even Shorter Mentionnone 6a
32Cave Chimneynone 2b
336.0 a.m. Routenone 4b
34Condom Cornernone 6b
35Dr. Kemp's Curenone 6a *
 START OF BANNED AREA ***PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB ON THESE ROUTES*** 
37Thin Laybacknone 5b *
38Moments of Pleasurenone 6c *
39Rotanone 4a **
40Demon Wallnone 5c **
41Easy Lifenone 6b *
42Enigmanone 6b *
43Long Man's Neighbournone 4b *
44Scirocconone 6b *
 SANDSTORM BUTTRESS - THESE 3 ROUTES ARE ALLOWED, NO CHALK PLEASE 
46Sandstormnone 6a ***
47The Crunchnone 6b ***
48More Cake for Menone 6a ***
 CONTINUATION OF BANNED AREA - *PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB THESE ROUTES* 
50Amphitheatre Cracknone 5b *
51Flail Trailnone 6b *
52Branchdownnone 5c *
53Leechnone 5c *
54Forgotton Cracknone 6a **
55Smile of the Beyondnone 6b *
56Locustnone 5c *
57Higher Purchasenone 6b *
 CLIMBING ALLOWED FROM HERE TO THE END OF ERIDGE TOWER... 
59Dusk Cracknone 4c *
60Meaty Thighsnone 6b *
61The Beguilednone 6b **
62Judamomdonone 6c
63Snail Trailnone 6b **
64Zugzwangnone 6b **
65The leaff6B+ **
66Turning The Leaff7B ***
67Earthrisenone 6a *
68Empty Veenone 6a
69Brian's Cornernone 5c *
70The Pillarnone 5c **
71Waffer Thinnone 6b *
72Obelisknone 6a **
73Slanting Cracknone 4a
74Nigel Mantelnone 6a *
75Stirling Mossnone 6a **
76Scooped Slabnone 5b **
77Afterburnernone 6a *
78Mellow Tootnone 6a **
79Yellow Sootnone 6a *
80Iron Man Tysonnone 6a *
81Stem Sonnone 6a *
82Lounone 6b **
83Jude's Wallnone 6c
84Just CIAnone 5b
85Just Icenone 5b
86Just Causenone 4b
87Backyardnone 4c *
88Genesisnone 6a **
89Steelmillnone 6a **
90Touch Downnone 6a *
91Scorpionnone 6a *
92Azazelf7A
93Lazy Chivenone 6b **
94Revelationsnone 6a **
95Poofy Finger's Revengenone 6a **
96Antoninusnone 5c *
97Hadrian's Wallnone 5b **
98Asterixnone 5c **
99Fly by Knightnone 6a *
100Remusnone 4c **
101roman nosenone 5a
102romulusnone 5b *
103Good Route...Poor Linenone 6a *
104Good Route...Good Linenone 5c *
105Layawaynone 5b
106Hipposuctionnone 5b *
107Appetite for Destructionnone 6a *
108Capstan Wallnone 4a
109Concordenone 5b *
110Viking Linenone 5c **
111Misty Wallnone 5b
112Ericnone 5a
113Life in the Old Dog Yetnone 6a
114Fandangonone 5c *
115Hartleysnone 4b
116Flutingsnone 4b
117Sonny Dribble Chopsnone 5b
118Elastic Headbandsnone 5b *
119Barbican Buttressnone 4b **
120Steamrollernone 6a *
121Battlements Cracknone 5a ***
122Portcullisnone 5c **
 CLIMBING BANNED FROM HERE TO THE END. 
124Twin Slabsnone 5b *
125Tiger Slabnone 4b *
 LOCATION UNKNOWN 
127Claudius drops a clangernone ***
128Goat Ragef7C
129Goat Rage Shortf7B
130Descent Chimneynone 3b
131Boulder Chimneynone 2b
 SS BOULDER GUIDE PROBLEMS 
133SS Boulder Problem 42 ssf6B
134Problem No. 55f5
135SS Boulder Problem 56 ssf6B **
136Problem No. 58f6A+ *
137Problem No. 59f6A
138Problem No. 66f4+
139SS Boulder Problem 67f6B **
140Problem No. 72 ssf5+
141Problem No. 73f5
142Problem No. 74f6A
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Graham Ad

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
loads of top quality bouldering, but please keep the chalk to a minimum and only climb in the designated areas as stated on the sign in the car park. very unstable access at the moment.
ian h - 26/Nov/03