Climbs 186
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 120m a.s.l
Faces E

the watchtower © ian h

Crag features

Height varying between 5 and 10m. Variable quality, from lichenous and friable to clean and solid. Like other soft sandstone crags, either solo or use topropes with extended slings. Do not let ropes rub the rock. The bouldering here can be fantastic in late summer, when the shady aspect means it is cooler (and quieter) than Bowles or Harrisons. Very reminiscent of Font, especially at the Northern (RH) end of the crag.

Please note there are some areas where climbing is banned as part of the access agreement. You may climb on routes from the south end (by the car park) of the crag up to, and including, Dr. Kemp's Cure. From here, climbing is banned up to and including Higher Purchase. The exceptions are the three climbs 'Sandstorm', 'The Crunch' and 'More Cake For Me' where climbing is permitted but chalk is not allowed. Climbing is also banned from Moroccan Roll to the north end of the crag. Please respect the access conditions. If you see poor belaying methods please advise on the correct procedure. A carpet sample is very useful for cleaning your feet before you climb - this significantly reduces wear on the crag.

Approach notes

Climbing is allowed now on some parts of the crag - an access agreement has been negotiated with the owners - Sussex Wildlife Trust. Please read the Crag Features above for limitations. The Rocks are a SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest). Make sure you know where you are allowed to climb.
Take the A26 Tunbridge Wells-Crowborough rd; 4km S of Tunbridge Wells, Pass through Eridge and turn R onto a narrow lane by Eridge church. Drive for 200m past a small row of houses to a car park right next to the first main buttress.

Access Advice

Most of the outcrop lies within a nature reserve owned by The Sussex Wildlife Trust (Tel. No. 01273 492630). Climbing is allowed on specific areas by agreement between the Trust and The BMC - drawn up so the rare plants and rock are conserved. This is the first agreement of its kind, so please help to make it work and ensure that climbing and wildlife can continue together. Please note the description of routes in the banned areas is purely for historical records (in case the details of the agreement should ever change), and does not imply they should be climbed. As well as adhering to the Sandstone Code of Practice, please observe the following: · Climbing is allowed from Heffalump to Dr Kemp’s Cure, from Sandstorm to More Cake for Me, and from Dusk Crack to Tower Girdle inclusive. Climbing outside these zones is forbidden. The area between Sandstorm and More Cake for Me is very sensitive, with many rare plants, so please be extra careful here. · Climbing by organised groups is not permitted. · Use of chalk is forbidden from Sandstorm to More Cake for Me inclusive. Please use chalk elsewhere as little as possible. Chalk changes the ph of these acid rocks and can seriously damage the lower-order plants. · Please minimise chalk use elsewhere. · Do not remove any greenery, whether vegetation or lower plants. When cleaning holds take care only to remove loose sand and debris. · The rock at the top of the blocks above the car-park (Equilibrium etc.) is extremely fragile and is scarred with deep rope-grooves. Please use a piece of old carpet to protect the rock from the belay rope (which is necessary as the trees are too far back for the use of slings). There are no bolts above the climbs. Although the trees are close to the edge, it is still necessary to take a static rope (12m is useful) for belays where the trees are some distance back - esp. for routes above the car park, the Fandango block and for Eridge Tower.

loads of top quality bouldering, but please keep the chalk to a minimum and only climb in the designated areas as stated on the sign in the car park. very unstable access at the moment.
ian h - 26/Nov/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Elephant's Boulder 
2Goat Rage Extensionf7B+ 1
3Heffalumpnone 2a 3
4I Don't Want to be a Goatf7B 1
5Diagonal
-
none 6b **1
6Lazy Chive
-
none 6b ** 
7Revelations
-
none 6a **2
8Y Crack
-
none 4c *5
9Poofy Finger's Revengenone 6a **2
10Why Not Go Right
-
none 5a 1
11Antoninus
-
none 5c *4
 Columnar Buttress 
13Hadrian's Wallnone 5b **45
14Columnar Buttress
-
none 4a 3
15Asterixnone 5c **21
 Road Side Rocks 
17Fly by Knight
-
none 6a *7
18Ashes and Dustf6B 1
19Remus
-
none 4c **90
20Inland Empirenone 5b **1
 Car Park Crags 
22roman nosenone 5a 39
23Mammoth Wall
-
none 5b **5
24romulusnone 5b *28
25Siesta Wallnone 5b *26
26Good Route...Poor Line
-
none 6a *3
27Good Route...Good Line
-
none 5c *28
28Innominate Crack
-
none 5b ***27
29Big Fat Tart
-
none 5b 10
30Layaway
-
none 5b 18
31Equilibrium Wall
-
none 5b *41
32Hipposuction
-
none 5b *10
33Hottie
-
none 6a *5
34Appetite for Destructionnone 6a *2
35Nuthin' Fancy
-
none 5c *7
36Capstan Wallnone 4a 57
37Concordenone 5b *54
38Libra
-
none 5c 16
39Too Short
-
none 5c 8
40Viking Linenone 5c **6
41Trainer Drainer
-
none 5c *9
42Misty Wallnone 5b 3
43Hanging Cracknone 5a **49
44Ericnone 5a 9
45Life in the Old Dog Yetnone 6a 4
46The Watchtowerf7B 7
47Prowess
-
none 6b **4
48Fandangonone 6a **9
49Nonpareil
-
none 6c *1
50Hartleys
-
none 4b 21
51Flake Crack
-
none 3a 15
52Paisleynone 5b 1
53Flutings
-
none 4b 17
54Nick's Tormentf7A **3
55Sonny Dribble Chops
-
none 5b 5
56Sansaraf7A *2
57Elastic Headbands
-
none 5b *5
58Bivouac Chimneynone 1b 7
59Barbican Buttress
-
none 4b **60
60Geronimonone 4b 9
61Steamrollernone 6a *32
62Truncatenone 3a 14
63Battlements Cracknone 5a ***76
64Parisian Affair
-
none 6a 36
65Portcullisnone 5c **47
66Too Short to Mention
-
none 6a 9
 Climbing banned from here to the end. 
68Even Shorter Mention
-
none 6a 7
69Twin Slabsnone 5b *2
70Cave Chimney
-
none 2b 9
71Tiger Slabnone 4b *2
726.0 a.m. Route
-
none 4b 19
 SS Boulder Guide Problems 
74Condom Corner
-
none 6b 8
75Dr. Kemp's Cure
-
none 6a *3
76SS Boulder Problem 42 ssf6B 5
 Start of Banned Area ***please do not climb on these routes*** 
78Problem No. 55f5 10
79 Thin Laybacknone 5b *5
80SS Boulder Problem 56 ssf6B **3
81 Moments of Pleasurenone 6c * 
82Problem No. 58f6A+ *4
83 Rotanone 4a **1
84Problem No. 59f6A 3
85 Demon Wallnone 5c **2
86Problem No. 66f4+ 2
87 Easy Lifenone 6b * 
88SS Boulder Problem 67f6B **4
89 Enigmanone 6b *2
90Problem No. 72 ssf5+ 2
91 Long Man's Neighbournone 4b *2
92Problem No. 73f5 2
93 Scirocconone 6b *1
94Problem No. 74f6A 2
 Sandstorm Buttress - these 3 routes are allowed, NO CHALK PLEASE 
96Nightfall
-
V9 ***1
97Sandstormnone 6a ***3
 Location Unclear - please add a better description / location. 
99The Crunchnone 6b ***1
100Claudius drops a clanger
-
none *1
101More Cake for Menone 6a ***2
102Descent Chimneynone 3b 1
 Continuation of Banned area - *please do not climb these routes* 
104Boulder Chimneynone 2b 2
105 Amphitheatre Cracknone 5b *1
106The Read Linef7C+ 1
107 Flail Trailnone 6b *2
108Indian Traversef7A * 
109 Branchdownnone 5c *2
110Elephant's Tail
-
none 3b 2
111 Leechnone 5c *1
112Elephant's Arse
-
none 6a  
113 Forgotton Cracknone 6a **1
114Elephant's Head
-
none 5c 2
115 Smile of the Beyondnone 6b *1
116Trunk Route
-
none 3a 1
117 Locustnone 5c *1
118Beaten To It
-
none 3b 1
119 Higher Purchasenone 6b *1
120Its Pub-o-Clock
-
none 5a 1
 Climbing allowed from here to the end of Eridge Tower... 
122Primrose
-
none 4c 2
123Dusk Crack
-
none 4c *4
124Fenchurch
-
none 5c 1
125Meaty Thighs
-
none 6b * 
126Close to You
-
none 6a 1
127The Beguiled
-
none 6b **2
128Last of the Summer Wine
-
none 5c 1
129Judamomdonone 6c 2
130The Slab
-
none 3b 2
131Snail Trail
-
none 6b **2
132Tree Climb
-
none 4c 1
133Zugzwang
-
none 6b **1
134Mosquito
-
none 4c 1
135The leaff6B+ **22
136Tiger Moth
-
none 5a 1
137Turning The Leaff7B ***4
138Bulging Corner
-
none 5c 1
139Jack Strongf7B+ 1
140Long Man's Slab
-
none 5b 1
141Earthrise
-
none 6a *2
142Amphitheatre Chimney
-
none 3a 1
143Hypersonicf7B+ 2
144Patiencef7A+ 1
145Greasy Slab
-
none 3b 1
146Empty Veenone 6a  
147The Exit Cracks
-
none 5c 1
148Brian's Corner
-
none 5c *5
149Mein Herr
-
none 6a 1
150The Pillar
-
none 5c **24
151Black Crack
-
none 3b 1
152Waffer Thin
-
none 6b * 
153Toadstool Crack
-
none 4a 1
154Obelisk
-
none 6a **6
155Green Bollard Chimney
-
none 3a 1
156Slanting Crack
-
none 4a 4
157Beginners' Wall
-
none 4c 1
158Nigel Mantel
-
none 6a *1
159Shanty Wall
-
none 5a 1
160Stirling Mossnone 6a **13
161Bugbear Buttress
-
none 5a 1
162Scooped Slab
-
none 5b **40
163Fruits
-
none 5c 1
164Afterburner
-
none 6a *1
165Keystone Face
-
none 4c 1
166Mellow Toot
-
none 6a ** 
167Keystone Crack
-
none 1b 1
168Yellow Soot
-
none 6a * 
169Keystone Wall
-
none 3b 1
170Iron Man Tyson
-
none 6a *1
171'Hyphenated' Jones
-
none 6a 1
172Stem Son
-
none 6a * 
173Short Work
-
none 5c 1
174Lou
-
none 6b ** 
175Wobble
-
none 5b 1
176Jude's Wallnone 6c  
177Pedestal Wall
-
none 4b 1
178Just CIAnone 5b 3
179Crackpot
-
none 4b 1
180Just Icenone 5b 3
181Cameo
-
none 4b  
182Just Causenone 4b 4
183Optical Racer
-
none 5b 4
184Backyard
-
none 4c *10
185Honest Toil
-
none 4a 1
186Genesisnone 6a **17
187Green Crack
-
none 2b 1
188Steelmillnone 6a **11
189Gully Rib
-
none 3b 1
190Touch Downnone 6a *3
191Urrrgh!
-
none 3b 1
192Scorpion
-
none 6a * 
193Cave Corner
-
none 5a 1
194Azazelf7A 20
195Cave Climb
-
none 5b 1
196Goat Ragef7C 2
197Goat Rage Shortf7B  

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