Climbs 185
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 120m a.s.l
Faces E

the watchtower © ian h

Crag features

Height varying between 5 and 10m. Variable quality, from lichenous and friable to clean and solid. Like other soft sandstone crags, either solo or use topropes with extended slings. Do not let ropes rub the rock. The bouldering here can be fantastic in late summer, when the shady aspect means it is cooler (and quieter) than Bowles or Harrisons. Very reminiscent of Font, especially at the Northern (RH) end of the crag.

Please note there are some areas where climbing is banned as part of the access agreement. You may climb on routes from the south end (by the car park) of the crag up to, and including, Dr. Kemp's Cure. From here, climbing is banned up to and including Higher Purchase. The exceptions are the three climbs 'Sandstorm', 'The Crunch' and 'More Cake For Me' where climbing is permitted but chalk is not allowed. Climbing is also banned from Moroccan Roll to the north end of the crag. Please respect the access conditions. If you see poor belaying methods please advise on the correct procedure. A carpet sample is very useful for cleaning your feet before you climb - this significantly reduces wear on the crag.

Approach notes

Climbing is allowed now on some parts of the crag - an access agreement has been negotiated with the owners - Sussex Wildlife Trust. Please read the Crag Features above for limitations. The Rocks are a SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest). Make sure you know where you are allowed to climb.
Take the A26 Tunbridge Wells-Crowborough rd; 4km S of Tunbridge Wells, Pass through Eridge and turn R onto a narrow lane by Eridge church. Drive for 200m past a small row of houses to a car park right next to the first main buttress.

Access Advice

Most of the outcrop lies within a nature reserve owned by The Sussex Wildlife Trust (Tel. No. 01273 492630). Climbing is allowed on specific areas by agreement between the Trust and The BMC - drawn up so the rare plants and rock are conserved. This is the first agreement of its kind, so please help to make it work and ensure that climbing and wildlife can continue together. Please note the description of routes in the banned areas is purely for historical records (in case the details of the agreement should ever change), and does not imply they should be climbed. As well as adhering to the Sandstone Code of Practice, please observe the following: · Climbing is allowed from Heffalump to Dr Kemp’s Cure, from Sandstorm to More Cake for Me, and from Dusk Crack to Tower Girdle inclusive. Climbing outside these zones is forbidden. The area between Sandstorm and More Cake for Me is very sensitive, with many rare plants, so please be extra careful here. · Climbing by organised groups is not permitted. · Use of chalk is forbidden from Sandstorm to More Cake for Me inclusive. Please use chalk elsewhere as little as possible. Chalk changes the ph of these acid rocks and can seriously damage the lower-order plants. · Please minimise chalk use elsewhere. · Do not remove any greenery, whether vegetation or lower plants. When cleaning holds take care only to remove loose sand and debris. · The rock at the top of the blocks above the car-park (Equilibrium etc.) is extremely fragile and is scarred with deep rope-grooves. Please use a piece of old carpet to protect the rock from the belay rope (which is necessary as the trees are too far back for the use of slings). There are no bolts above the climbs. Although the trees are close to the edge, it is still necessary to take a static rope (12m is useful) for belays where the trees are some distance back - esp. for routes above the car park, the Fandango block and for Eridge Tower.

loads of top quality bouldering, but please keep the chalk to a minimum and only climb in the designated areas as stated on the sign in the car park. very unstable access at the moment.
ian h - 26/Nov/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Elephant's Boulder 
2Heffalumpnone 2a 3
3Diagonal
-
none 6b **1
4Y Crack
-
none 4c *5
5Why Not Go Right
-
none 5a 1
 Columnar Buttress 
7Columnar Buttress
-
none 4a 3
 Road Side Rocks 
9Ashes and Dustf6B 1
10Inland Empirenone 5b **1
 Car Park Crags 
12Mammoth Wall
-
none 5b **5
13Siesta Wallnone 5b *25
14Innominate Crack
-
none 5b ***26
15Big Fat Tart
-
none 5b 9
16Equilibrium Wall
-
none 5b *39
17Hottie
-
none 6a *3
18Nuthin' Fancy
-
none 5c *6
19Libra
-
none 5c 14
20Too Short
-
none 5c 6
21Trainer Drainer
-
none 5c *7
22Hanging Cracknone 5a **45
23The Watchtowerf7B 5
24Prowess
-
none 6b **2
25Nonpareil
-
none 6c *1
26Flake Crack
-
none 3a 15
27Nick's Tormentf7A **2
28Sansaraf7A *1
29Bivouac Chimneynone 1b 7
30Geronimonone 4b 9
31Truncatenone 3a 13
32Parisian Affair
-
none 6a 29
33Too Short to Mention
-
none 6a 7
34Even Shorter Mention
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none 6a 7
35Cave Chimney
-
none 2b 9
366.0 a.m. Route
-
none 4b 19
37Condom Corner
-
none 6b 7
38Dr. Kemp's Cure
-
none 6a *3
 Start of Banned Area ***please do not climb on these routes*** 
40 Thin Laybacknone 5b *5
41 Moments of Pleasurenone 6c * 
42 Rotanone 4a **1
43 Demon Wallnone 5c **2
44 Easy Lifenone 6b * 
45 Enigmanone 6b *2
46 Long Man's Neighbournone 4b *2
47 Scirocconone 6b *1
 Sandstorm Buttress - these 3 routes are allowed, NO CHALK PLEASE 
49Sandstormnone 6a ***3
50The Crunchnone 6b ***1
51More Cake for Menone 6a ***2
 Continuation of Banned area - *please do not climb these routes* 
53 Amphitheatre Cracknone 5b *1
54 Flail Trailnone 6b *2
55 Branchdownnone 5c *2
56 Leechnone 5c *1
57 Forgotton Cracknone 6a **1
58 Smile of the Beyondnone 6b *1
59 Locustnone 5c *1
60 Higher Purchasenone 6b *1
 Climbing allowed from here to the end of Eridge Tower... 
62Dusk Crack
-
none 4c *4
63Meaty Thighs
-
none 6b * 
64The Beguiled
-
none 6b **2
65Judamomdonone 6c 2
66Snail Trail
-
none 6b **2
67Zugzwang
-
none 6b **1
68The leaff6B+ **17
69Turning The Leaff7B ***4
70Jack Strongf7B+ 1
71Earthrise
-
none 6a *2
72Hypersonicf7B+ 2
73Empty Veenone 6a  
74Brian's Corner
-
none 5c *5
75The Pillar
-
none 5c **24
76Waffer Thin
-
none 6b * 
77Obelisk
-
none 6a **6
78Slanting Crack
-
none 4a 4
79Nigel Mantel
-
none 6a *1
80Stirling Mossnone 6a **13
81Scooped Slab
-
none 5b **39
82Afterburner
-
none 6a *1
83Mellow Toot
-
none 6a ** 
84Yellow Soot
-
none 6a * 
85Iron Man Tyson
-
none 6a *1
86Stem Son
-
none 6a * 
87Lou
-
none 6b ** 
88Jude's Wallnone 6c  
89Just CIAnone 5b 3
90Just Icenone 5b 3
91Just Causenone 4b 4
92Backyard
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none 4c *10
93Genesisnone 6a **14
94Steelmillnone 6a **11
95Touch Downnone 6a *3
96Scorpion
-
none 6a * 
97Azazelf7A 15
98Goat Ragef7C 2
99Goat Rage Shortf7B  
100Goat Rage Extensionf7B+ 1
101I Don't Want to be a Goatf7B 1
102Lazy Chive
-
none 6b ** 
103Revelations
-
none 6a **2
104Poofy Finger's Revengenone 6a **2
105Antoninus
-
none 5c *4
106Hadrian's Wallnone 5b **41
107Asterixnone 5c **19
108Fly by Knight
-
none 6a *7
109Remus
-
none 4c **84
110roman nosenone 5a 37
111romulusnone 5b *27
112Good Route...Poor Line
-
none 6a *1
113Good Route...Good Line
-
none 5c *25
114Layaway
-
none 5b 16
115Hipposuction
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none 5b *10
116Appetite for Destructionnone 6a *2
117Capstan Wallnone 4a 57
118Concordenone 5b *51
119Viking Linenone 5c **4
120Misty Wallnone 5b 3
121Ericnone 5a 8
122Life in the Old Dog Yetnone 6a 1
123Fandangonone 6a **7
124Hartleys
-
none 4b 21
125Paisleynone 5b 1
126Flutings
-
none 4b 17
127Sonny Dribble Chops
-
none 5b 5
128Elastic Headbands
-
none 5b *5
129Barbican Buttress
-
none 4b **58
130Steamrollernone 6a *32
131Battlements Cracknone 5a ***75
132Portcullisnone 5c **45
 Climbing banned from here to the end. 
134Twin Slabsnone 5b *2
135Tiger Slabnone 4b *2
 SS Boulder Guide Problems 
137SS Boulder Problem 42 ssf6B 3
138Problem No. 55f5 6
139SS Boulder Problem 56 ssf6B **2
140Problem No. 58f6A+ *3
141Problem No. 59f6A 3
142Problem No. 66f4+ 2
143SS Boulder Problem 67f6B **3
144Problem No. 72 ssf5+ 2
145Problem No. 73f5 2
146Problem No. 74f6A 2
147Nightfall
-
V9 ***1
 Location Unclear - please add a better description / location. 
149Claudius drops a clanger
-
none *1
150Descent Chimneynone 3b 1
151Boulder Chimneynone 2b 2
152The Read Linef7C+ 1
153Indian Traversef7A * 
154Elephant's Tail
-
none 3b 2
155Elephant's Arse
-
none 6a  
156Elephant's Head
-
none 5c 2
157Trunk Route
-
none 3a 1
158Beaten To It
-
none 3b 1
159Its Pub-o-Clock
-
none 5a 1
160Primrose
-
none 4c 2
161Fenchurch
-
none 5c 1
162Close to You
-
none 6a 1
163Last of the Summer Wine
-
none 5c 1
164The Slab
-
none 3b 2
165Tree Climb
-
none 4c 1
166Mosquito
-
none 4c 1
167Tiger Moth
-
none 5a 1
168Bulging Corner
-
none 5c 1
169Long Man's Slab
-
none 5b 1
170Amphitheatre Chimney
-
none 3a 1
171Greasy Slab
-
none 3b 1
172The Exit Cracks
-
none 5c 1
173Mein Herr
-
none 6a 1
174Black Crack
-
none 3b 1
175Toadstool Crack
-
none 4a 1
176Green Bollard Chimney
-
none 3a 1
177Beginners' Wall
-
none 4c 1
178Shanty Wall
-
none 5a 1
179Bugbear Buttress
-
none 5a 1
180Fruits
-
none 5c 1
181Keystone Face
-
none 4c 1
182Keystone Crack
-
none 1b 1
183Keystone Wall
-
none 3b 1
184'Hyphenated' Jones
-
none 6a 1
185Short Work
-
none 5c 1
186Wobble
-
none 5b 1
187Pedestal Wall
-
none 4b 1
188Crackpot
-
none 4b 1
189Cameo
-
none 4b  
190Optical Racer
-
none 5b 4
191Honest Toil
-
none 4a 1
192Green Crack
-
none 2b 1
193Gully Rib
-
none 3b 1
194Urrrgh!
-
none 3b 1
195Cave Corner
-
none 5a 1
196Cave Climb
-
none 5b 1

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