Aonach Eagach - Sgor nam Fiannaidh

Climbs 15 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude 967m a.s.l – Faces SE

Crag features
Forming the north wall of Glencoe the traverse of the Aonach Eagach ridge gives one of the finest mountaineering days on the mainland graded Moderate/II and well worth 3 stars. The buttresses and gullies flanking the ridge also give top class winter days with Blue Riband(V) an excellent 3-star water ice route.

DESCENT NOTES.

There are three potential descents from the Aonach Eagach Ridge when traversing from East to West.

1. Clachaig Gully path. This route is NOT RECOMMENDED, as it is exceedingly loose and dangerous. It has been the scene of many fatalities over the years, including experienced mountaineers.

2. Direct from Sgor nam Fiannaidh to Loch Achtriochtan, at first on scree until a good path is found.

3. To the col near the Pap of Glencoe, then down to the minor road between the Clachaig and the village. This is the longest way down, but also the safest.

Access notes
Approach from one of a number of small parking bays on the Glencoe road.

Guidebooks
Scottish Winter Climbs (2008), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Scottish Winter Climbs (1996), Glen Coe (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 MAIN RIDGE  
2Aonach Eagach Ridge (winter)II ***675
3Aonach Eagach Ridge (summer)2 ***642
 SOUTH FLANK  
5Clachaig Gully (summer)S ***68
6Blue RibandV ***10
7Findlay's TailIV 4 *3
8South Face of A'Chailleach3 **8
 NORTH FLANK  
10The PosseIV 1
11Frozen AssetsVII 7 **1
12Aonach Eagach - Sgor nam Fiannaidh summitsummit 306
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I did the AE west to east last weekend with my 2 sons, having previously searched the multitude of personal accounts of the "normal" route that are accessible through Google. Nobody seems to have recorded the many advantages of doing it the other way: (1) a shorter descent when tired at the end, (2) a following wind (normally), (3) Chancellor scramble easier going up than down, (4) solitude - big herd of deer on way up, another on way down. Only drawback is having to pass everybody else whilst negotiating the Pinnacles, so be patient with delay. Type "West to East" into Google and see how little comes up !!
ian shearer - 07/Nov/06