Aonach Eagach - Sgor nam Fiannaidh Highland, SCOTLAND
Climbs 15 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude 967m a.s.l – Faces SE
Forming the north wall of Glencoe the traverse of the Aonach Eagach ridge gives one of the finest mountaineering days on the mainland graded Moderate/II and well worth 3 stars. The buttresses and gullies flanking the ridge also give top class winter days with Blue Riband(V) an excellent 3-star water ice route.
There are three potential descents from the Aonach Eagach Ridge when traversing from East to West.
1. Clachaig Gully path. This route is NOT RECOMMENDED, as it is exceedingly loose and dangerous. It has been the scene of many fatalities over the years, including experienced mountaineers.
2. Direct from Sgor nam Fiannaidh to Loch Achtriochtan, at first on scree until a good path is found.
3. To the col near the Pap of Glencoe, then down to the minor road between the Clachaig and the village. This is the longest way down, but also the safest.
Approach from one of a number of small parking bays on the Glencoe road.
Scottish Winter Climbs (2008), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Scottish Winter Climbs (1996), Glen Coe (1992)
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Big Lee
I did the AE west to east last weekend with my 2 sons, having previously searched the multitude of personal accounts of the "normal" route that are accessible through Google. Nobody seems to have recorded the many advantages of doing it the other way: (1) a shorter descent when tired at the end, (2) a following wind (normally), (3) Chancellor scramble easier going up than down, (4) solitude - big herd of deer on way up, another on way down. Only drawback is having to pass everybody else whilst negotiating the Pinnacles, so be patient with delay. Type "West to East" into Google and see how little comes up !!|
ian shearer - 07/Nov/06