Climbs 15
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 967m a.s.l
Faces SE

The river near The Clachaig Inn © JamesRoddie

Crag features

Forming the north wall of Glencoe the traverse of the Aonach Eagach ridge gives one of the finest mountaineering days on the mainland graded Moderate/II and well worth 3 stars. The buttresses and gullies flanking the ridge also give top class winter days with Blue Riband(V) an excellent 3-star water ice route.


There are three potential descents from the Aonach Eagach Ridge when traversing from East to West.

1. Clachaig Gully path. This route is NOT RECOMMENDED, as it is exceedingly loose and dangerous. It has been the scene of many fatalities over the years, including experienced mountaineers.

2. Direct from Sgor nam Fiannaidh to Loch Achtriochtan, at first on scree until a good path is found.

3. To the col near the Pap of Glencoe, then down to the minor road between the Clachaig and the village. This is the longest way down, but also the safest.

Approach notes

Approach from one of a number of small parking bays on the Glencoe road.

I did the AE west to east last weekend with my 2 sons, having previously searched the multitude of personal accounts of the "normal" route that are accessible through Google. Nobody seems to have recorded the many advantages of doing it the other way: (1) a shorter descent when tired at the end, (2) a following wind (normally), (3) Chancellor scramble easier going up than down, (4) solitude - big herd of deer on way up, another on way down. Only drawback is having to pass everybody else whilst negotiating the Pinnacles, so be patient with delay. Type "West to East" into Google and see how little comes up !!
ian shearer - 07/Nov/06
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Main Ridge 
2Aonach Eagach Ridge (winter)II ***900
3Aonach Eagach Ridge (summer)2 ***805
 South Flank 
5Clachaig Gully (summer)S ***116
6Blue RibandV ***10
7Findlay's TailIV 4 *3
8South Face of A'Chailleach3 **9
 North Flank 
10The PosseIV 1
11Frozen AssetsVII 7 **1
12Aonach Eagach - Sgor nam Fiannaidh summit
summit 391

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Big Lee