Climbs 27
Rocktype Killas slate
Altitude 20m a.s.l
Faces W

Two Hours from Midnight (Zennor Head in June) © PontiusPirate

Crag features

Single and multi-pitch routes up to 240+ ft. Rock is some greenstone, some killas slate. Some of the rock should be treated with carebut generally has good holds and protection. Amazing exposure on the lower cliff. Most routes below E1; try Zennorphobia (HVS) and Rosebud in June (HVS 5a).

Approach notes

Non-tidal but beware swell on lower cliff.

>From Zennor village, follow the lane (right of way) between the church and pub. Take the coast path twds St Ives: the cliff is by a group of rocks with a memorial plaque.

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
I had my only leader fall to date at this crag, on the VS 4c Sheep Dog Black Crag (or something like that), near the R end (looking in) of the upper crag. A hold came off when I tried to lunge past the first break. You get a rapidly developed sense of exposure when you climb on the other routes on this cliff. A few feet above the narrowish grassy ledge from which you start and you become aware of the big black hole beneath you. The landlord at the Tinners Arms in Zennor is now a very nice man, which is a very welcome change from the surly unpleasant git that was there a few years ago
mbh at work - 08/Aug/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Rainbow Zawn 
E2 5b  
HVS 5a  
 Upper Cliff 
5The Rumbles
S 4b 5
6The Bumbles
VS 5a 7
7Cross Town TrafficHS 4b 9
S 4a 17
91923 Route
VD 18
10Rosebud in JuneHVS 5a *117
11Blind FurryE2 5b 10
12The Royal ForesterVS 4c **159
13Blind Fury
E1 5b 10
14Blind Fury Direct
E4 6a *4
15Choking Back the CheersE1 5b 3
16Sheep Crook, Black Dog
VS 4c 34
17Zennder BenderHD *3
 Lower Cliff (Seaward End) 
19Cry Tough
HVS 5a  
20Digital Wall
E1 5b  
VS 4b  
HVS 5a  
23Sail Race
VS 4b  
25Avoided Issue
S 4a  
26Climb To The Sun
HVS 4c *4
 Lower Cliff (Landward End) 
28Paper MoonVS 1
29The Eyass
E1 5b 2
HVS 4c *1
32The Zennor Foolf7C **1

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