Single and multi-pitch routes up to 240+ ft. Rock is some greenstone, some killas slate. Some of the rock should be treated with carebut generally has good holds and protection. Amazing exposure on the lower cliff. Most routes below E1; try Zennorphobia (HVS) and Rosebud in June (HVS 5a).
Non-tidal but beware swell on lower cliff.
>From Zennor village, follow the lane (right of way) between the church and pub. Take the coast path twds St Ives: the cliff is by a group of rocks with a memorial plaque.
|5||The Rumbles||S 4b||5|
|6||The Bumbles||VS 5a||7|
|7||Cross Town Traffic||HS 4b||9|
|10||Rosebud in June||HVS 5a *||94|
|11||Blind Furry||E2 5b||7|
|12||The Royal Forester||VS 4c **||134|
|13||Blind Fury||E1 5b||6|
|14||Blind Fury Direct||E4 6a *||2|
|15||Choking Back the Cheers||E1 5b||3|
|16||Sheep Crook, Black Dog||VS 4c||30|
|17||Zennder Bender||HD *||2|
|LOWER CLIFF (SEAWARD END)|
|19||Cry Tough||HVS 5a|
|20||Digital Wall||E1 5b|
|23||Sail Race||VS 4b|
|25||Avoided Issue||S 4a|
|26||Climb To The Sun||HVS 4c *||4|
|LOWER CLIFF (LANDWARD END)|
|29||The Eyass||E1 5b||2|
|30||Zennorphobia||HVS 4c *||1|
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|I had my only leader fall to date at this crag, on the VS 4c Sheep Dog Black Crag (or something like that), near the R end (looking in) of the upper crag. A hold came off when I tried to lunge past the first break.
You get a rapidly developed sense of exposure when you climb on the other routes on this cliff. A few feet above the narrowish grassy ledge from which you start and you become aware of the big black hole beneath you.
The landlord at the Tinners Arms in Zennor is now a very nice man, which is a very welcome change from the surly unpleasant git that was there a few years ago|
mbh at work - 08/Aug/03