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Gogarth North Stack (Wen Zawn)Gogarth and Anglesey, WALES
Climbs 68 – Rocktype Quartzite – Altitude 45m a.s.l – Faces NW
Pretty much every route here is spectacular, especially the very atmospheric "A Dream of White Horses". The routes on the slab can be spectated from the promontory opposite, and, honestly, the slab is not as steep as it may seem.
On the north side of the zawn is the "Flytrap" area the cliff is somewhat lower, with one or two really good routes.
Climbs at this crag
Tidal. Please consult the general Craig Gogarth entry for access notes.
At low water the base of Wen Slab can be reached by an abseil down the Uhuru Wall to reach the bed of the zawn, and some boulder-hopping to the base fo the slab.
At high water, or in rough seas the initial pitches must be avoided. Scramle across, on a narrow path, above the top of the slab to gain broken rocks on the ridge on the right. Descend this for a short section to further blocks on the edge of the slab. Be careful with the loose rocks on the ground, since any dislodged material will cascade down the slab, and potentially cause injury to the teams below. From this point, abseil down diagonally following a line of flakes to ledges some 20 metres above the sea, and then traverse easily left or right as appropriate for the chosen route. The left hand end of the ledges is the first stance of "Wen".
It is recommended that teams do consult the guidebook for the appropriate instructions for accessing routes at high water.
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