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These details were last updated on 18/Jul/2012

Blue Scar

North Yorkshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 121 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces NE

Crag features
The long line of vertical grey and blue streaked limestone on the southern side of the River Skirfare in Littondale are, for much of the year, patrolled only by Peregrine Falcons. Come late summer the magnificent crag starts to attract its other seasonal visitor in search of some of Yorkshireâs finest traditional limestone climbs. The climbing experience at Blue Scar compliments Yorkshire's near-by Big Three, offering, above all, a bit of peace and quiet when the hordes have descended on Malham and Gordale or the traffic noise is continuous on the road beneath Kilnsey. Although there are a few good sport routes here, it is the line-up of traditional pitches which attracts the majority of visitors. Much of the climbing is of a technical and sustained nature, on vertical ground and protected by good natural gear and a fair amount of pegs and threads but long run-outs will be encountered on many of the routes. Blue Scar is, for the most part, composed of excellent, compact vertical limestone; its only obvious weakness being two horizontal breaks that cut across the faces. The rock itself looks blank but has a profusion of small crimps, pockets, side-pulls, slopers and even the odd jug. Undoubtedly the showpiece of the crag is the Central Wall but the Left Wall also has some quality pitches at more amenable grades. The routes on the right-hand side are not as good but are still worth seeking out for sport climbers.

Weather forecast

 Today  Tue  Wed  Thu  Fri 

0.1mm rain
Mainly cloudy
11 °C
32 kph

0.8mm rain
Sun
12 °C
25 kph

7.1mm rain
Cloudy
10 °C
18 kph

3.0mm rain
Sunny periods
13 °C
18 kph

4.4mm rain
Sun
13 °C
8 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Yorkshire Dales

Guidebooks
Yorkshire Limestone (2005), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Yorkshire Limestone (Millenium Supplement) (1997), Yorkshire Limestone (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 LOWER TIER LEFT HAND  
2Blue ThunderE3 5c *11
3Blue SisterE3 5c *20
4Blue BottleHVS 6
5Some Blue For YouE1 5a **28
6Goon ShowE4 6a 3
7Hell's TeethE3 6a *9
8Captain BeefcakeE5 6a *2
9The Blue BeatE4 6b **8
10The KillE4 6a **9
11The Real ThingVS 4c 4
12UnrealE3 5c **25
13Blue GritE4 6a **22
14The ShootistE5 6b ***15
15The SpinelessE5 6b *2
16The Spineless Right-handE5 6a *1
 BLUE CHIP BUTTRESS  
18Pot of GoldVS 4c  
19Blue ChipVS 4c  
20ArcwrightE3 6a 1
21ArchangelE5 6c * 
22Black DeathE2 5b  
23Blue MaxE2 5b 2
24Out of the Mould (or is it Mold)E3 6a  
25The PiddlerS 1
 CENTRAL WALL  
27Bolt from the BlueE5 6a *5
28More Bolts from the BlueE5 6b **2
29BottlnoseE6 6b * 
30HammerheadE6 6b ** 
31PriapismE5 6b ***8
32Central WallE5 6a ***31
33BarracudaE6 6b ***1
34Death WishE6 6b ***3
35Stairway to HeavenE7 6c *** 
36True BlueE7 6b *** 
37Something NewE7 6c 1
38Blue AngelE7 6c ***1
39The Great WhiteE6 6b ***4
40Blue Water, White DeathE6 6c ***1
41Something BorrowedE6 6c **1
42Something BlueE6 6b **1
43The UnderlapE5 6b * 
44The Professor of DesireE6 6c **1
45Blue Afternoon7c * 
46The Lord of the DanceE7 6c *** 
 PIG SHEEP BUTTRESS  
48The Sheep Spider7b *1
49Dolly7a *1
50The Pig Sheep7b *1
51Do you feel lucky?6b+ 3
52Magnum Force6b+ *2
53Make My Day6b 7
 THE GREY WALL  
55The Argument of Silence6b **19
56Sudden Impact7a+ 5
57Dirty Harry6b 9
58Break Free6c ***13
59The Sibyl Speaks6c ***10
60Blue sky thinking6c+ 3
61AquaMarine6b+ 4
62Across the Wide Blue Yonder7a+ ***2
63Fighting Chance7a **5
64The Gingerbread House6b+ **10
65Fervour and Further6b *18
 Climb nameGradex
66From Beer To Infirmity7a+ *2
67A Rattling Good Yarn7a ***2
68Out of the BlueE3 6a 4
 THE ARCHED BUTTRESS  
70Passion off the Pitch6b+ 12
71Blue Swede's Shoes6b+ 4
72Sidewinder6b+ *18
73Rattler6c *10
74Hissing Sid6b+ 7
75Cosmetic Surgery6b+ **4
76Scarface6c 10
77Altered Images6c+ *3
78Nip and Tuck7a+ **2
79Underneath the Arches6a+ 9
80The Arch Of Damocles7a *5
81Shake, Rattle and Roll7a+ *5
82Pillar Talk7a *28
83Rattle Trap7a **16
84The Tender Trap7a+ **3
85once bitten6c+ **3
86Twice Shy7a *2
87Midge Repellent Part 16b *10
88Dark Summer6b **8
89New Desire6a+ 15
90Rising Passions6b ***27
91Meaty Beaty Big and Bouncy6b+ **6
92Rising Damp6b ***8
93Ardour and Harder6a+ **26
94Lust but not least6b **7
95All Embracing6a+ **3
 FAR RIGHT HAND WALL  
97The WallE1 5b 1
98In the Blue Corner6b *11
99Weighting in the Wings6a+ **15
100Heavyweight Champion6c+ **8
101Time Out of Mind7a+ 9
102Childhood's End7a+ 4
103The Arthur Sowden Concept7b *7
104One Previous Owner7a+ **9
105Maiden Voyage6b **1
106Valdez is ComingE5 6a 2
107Blue BloodE2 5c **8
108Blue Blood6c 4
109Phase TwoE2 5c 2
110Phase Two6b+ **11
111Blue Rinse6b *6
112Rip-em-off again ABE2 5b **3
113Rip-em off again AB6a+ *1
114Rip-em-off again6b 2
115Are we mad6a *8
116Beyond the Call of Duty6a 8
117Blue Finger5+ 8
 UPPER TIER  
119Continual Assessment7b+  
120Snozzcumber7a+  
121Trogglehumper7c  
122Stewart Pringle7b  
123Loitering With Intent7a+  
124Minor Misdemeanour7a+  
125The LurchVS 4c 1
126Throbscottle7b+  
127Holiday Blues7a+  
128Limestone Cowboy *E3 5c 1
129The Blue Preter *E3 6b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Access notes
LATEST NEWS!!!!

From now on permission will only be given to those who apply in writing in advance. The landowner has issued the following statement:

... 'With effect from the 1st July 2011 permissive access arrangements have changed and access is only with written permission obtained in advance. Proof of current BMC membership will be required. Application forms from sundial@globalnet.co.uk'....

The owner has agreed that once obtained, permission will last for a season.

Parking and other details will be included on an information sheet available with the application form.

The landowner states that his permission was always conditional on BMC membership (for insurance / liability reasons) but from now on proof of membership will be required. The new arrangements come about because of the problems caused last year by congestion around the farm by parked vehicles. New parking arrangements will be detailed in the information leaflet."

Blue Scar is easily reached from either Kilnsey (5 minutes extra drive) or over the top of Malham and through the village of Arncliffe. The parking for Blue Scar is situated near a farm about half way from Kilnsey to Arncliffe. PARKING SPACE IS LIMITED - take great care not to block any of the farm buildings entrances or the road itself. IF FARMER IS IN THE BUILDINGS THEN PERMISSION SHOULD BE SOUGHT TO USE THE FOLLOWING ACCESS. From the parking places walk to the east end of the farm buildings and go through the iron gate (cow shed) and then through the iron gate immediately on the left into a field. Cross the small stream and walk diagonally across the field towards a gate in the wire fence. Go through the gate and follow the fence line to a gap in the stone wall where the stream runs. Go through the gap, or one 50m to the left, to arrive at the base of the crag. This path is not a public right of way and the approach described is the only permitted access to and from the crag.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

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