Blue Scar

Climbs 134 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces NE

Crag features
The long line of vertical grey and blue streaked limestone on the southern side of the River Skirfare in Littondale are, for much of the year, patrolled only by Peregrine Falcons. Come late summer the magnificent crag starts to attract its other seasonal visitor in search of some of Yorkshireâs finest traditional limestone climbs. The climbing experience at Blue Scar compliments Yorkshire's near-by Big Three, offering, above all, a bit of peace and quiet when the hordes have descended on Malham and Gordale or the traffic noise is continuous on the road beneath Kilnsey. Although there are a few good sport routes here, it is the line-up of traditional pitches which attracts the majority of visitors. Much of the climbing is of a technical and sustained nature, on vertical ground and protected by good natural gear and a fair amount of pegs and threads but long run-outs will be encountered on many of the routes. Blue Scar is, for the most part, composed of excellent, compact vertical limestone; its only obvious weakness being two horizontal breaks that cut across the faces. The rock itself looks blank but has a profusion of small crimps, pockets, side-pulls, slopers and even the odd jug. Undoubtedly the showpiece of the crag is the Central Wall but the Left Wall also has some quality pitches at more amenable grades. The routes on the right-hand side are not as good but are still worth seeking out for sport climbers.

Access notes
LATEST NEWS!!!!

From now on permission will only be given to those who apply in writing in advance. The landowner has issued the following statement:

... 'With effect from the 1st July 2011 permissive access arrangements have changed and access is only with written permission obtained in advance. Proof of current BMC membership will be required. Application forms from sundial@globalnet.co.uk'....

The owner has agreed that once obtained, permission will last for a season.

Parking and other details will be included on an information sheet available with the application form.

The landowner states that his permission was always conditional on BMC membership (for insurance / liability reasons) but from now on proof of membership will be required. The new arrangements come about because of the problems caused last year by congestion around the farm by parked vehicles. New parking arrangements will be detailed in the information leaflet."

Blue Scar is easily reached from either Kilnsey (5 minutes extra drive) or over the top of Malham and through the village of Arncliffe. The parking for Blue Scar is situated near a farm about half way from Kilnsey to Arncliffe. PARKING SPACE IS LIMITED - take great care not to block any of the farm buildings entrances or the road itself. IF FARMER IS IN THE BUILDINGS THEN PERMISSION SHOULD BE SOUGHT TO USE THE FOLLOWING ACCESS. From the parking places walk to the east end of the farm buildings and go through the iron gate (cow shed) and then through the iron gate immediately on the left into a field. Cross the small stream and walk diagonally across the field towards a gate in the wire fence. Go through the gate and follow the fence line to a gap in the stone wall where the stream runs. Go through the gap, or one 50m to the left, to arrive at the base of the crag. This path is not a public right of way and the approach described is the only permitted access to and from the crag.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire (2015), Yorkshire Limestone (2005), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Yorkshire Limestone (Millenium Supplement) (1997), Yorkshire Limestone (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 LEFT WING 
2Limestone CowboyE3 5c
3Out of the BlueE3 6a
4The BluesE2 6a
5End FlakeVS 4c
6Exo-sodE1 5b
7Blue ThunderE3 5c *
8Blue SisterE3 5c *
9End of the LineE3 6a
10Blue BottleHVS
11Some Blue For YouE1 5a **
12Goon ShowE4 6a
13Hell's TeethE3 6a *
14Captain BeefcakeE5 6a *
15The Blue BeatE4 6b **
16The KillE4 6a **
17Screaming Blue MurderE5 6b
18The Blue PreterE3 6b
19The Real ThingVS 4c
20UnrealE3 5c **
21Blue GritE4 6a **
22The ShootistE5 6b ***
23The SpinelessE5 6b *
24The Spineless Right-handE5 6a *
25Blue BandE4 6b **
 BLUE CHIP BUTTRESS 
27Pot of GoldVS 4c
28Blue ChipVS 4c
29ArcwrightE3 6a
30ArchangelE5 6c *
31Black DeathE2 5b
32Blue MaxE2 5b
33Out of the Mould (or is it Mold)E3 6a
34The PiddlerS
 CENTRAL WALL 
36Bolt from the BlueE5 6a *
37More Bolts from the BlueE5 6b **
38BottlnoseE6 6b *
39HammerheadE6 6b **
40PriapismE5 6b ***
41Central WallE5 6a ***
42BarracudaE6 6b ***
43Death WishE6 6b ***
44Stairway to HeavenE7 6c ***
45True BlueE7 6b ***
46Something NewE7 6c
47Blue AngelE7 6c ***
48The Great WhiteE6 6b ***
49Blue Water, White DeathE6 6c ***
50Something BorrowedE6 6c **
51Something BlueE6 6b **
52The UnderlapE5 6b *
53The Professor of DesireE6 6c **
54Blue Afternoon7c *
55The Lord of the DanceE7 6c ***
 PIG SHEEP BUTTRESS 
57The Sheep Spider7b *
58Dolly7a *
59The Pig Sheep7b *
60The HybridE5 6b
 THE GREY WALL 
62Do you feel lucky?6b+
63Magnum Force6b+ *
64Make My Day6b
65The Argument of Silence6b **
66Sudden Impact7a+
67Dirty Harry6b
68Break Free6c ***
69The Sibyl Speaks6c ***
70Blue sky thinking6c+
71AquaMarine6b+
72Across the Wide Blue Yonder7a+ ***
73Fighting Chance7a **
74The Gingerbread House6b+ **
75Fervour and Further6b *
76From Beer To Infirmity7a+ *
77A Rattling Good Yarn7a ***
 THE ARCHED BUTTRESS 
79Passion off the Pitch6b+
80Blue Swede's Shoes6b+
81Sidewinder6b+ *
82Rattler6c *
83Hissing Sid6b+
84Cosmetic Surgery6b+ **
85Scarface6c
86A Cut Above (The Rest)7b **
87Altered Images6c+ *
88Nip and Tuck7a+ **
89Underneath the Arches6a+
90The Arch Of Damocles7a *
91Shake, Rattle and Roll7a+ *
92Pillar Talk7a *
93Rattle Trap7a **
94The Gentle/Tender Trap7a+ **
95The Tender Trap7a+ **
96once bitten6c+ **
97Twice Shy7a *
98Midge Repellent Part 16b *
99Midge Repellent Part 27b *
100Dark Summer6b **
101New Desire6a+
102Rising Passions6b ***
103Meaty Beaty Big and Bouncy6b+ **
104Rising Damp6b ***
105Ardour and Harder6a+ **
106Lust but not least6b **
107All Embracing6a+ **
 FAR RIGHT WALL 
109The WallE1 5b
110In the Blue Corner6b *
111Weighting in the Wings6a+ **
112Heavyweight Champion6c+ **
113Time Out of Mind7a+
114Childhood's End7a+
115The Arthur Sowden Concept7b *
116One Previous Owner7a+ **
117A Bit of Previous7a+ **
118Maiden Voyage6b **
119Valdez is ComingE5 6a
120Blue Blood (trad)E2 5c **
121Blue Blood6c
122Phase Two (trad)E2 5c
123Phase Two6b+ **
124Blue Rinse6b *
125Rip-em-off again AB (trad)E2 5b **
126Rip-em off again AB6a+ *
127Are we mad6a *
128Beyond the Call of Duty6a
129Blue Finger5c
130Innocent Man7a **
 UPPER TIER 
132Continual Assessment7b+
133Snozzcumber7a+
134Trogglehumper7c
135Stewart Pringle7b
136Loitering With Intent7a+
137Minor Misdemeanour7a+
138The LurchVS 4c
139Throbscottle7b+
140Holiday Blues7a+
 TRAVERSES 
142An Awfully Big Adventure7a+ ***
143The Air Turned Blue7a+ ***
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These details were last updated on 18/Jul/2012

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