Blue Scar

Climbs 123 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces NE

Crag features
The long line of vertical grey and blue streaked limestone on the southern side of the River Skirfare in Littondale are, for much of the year, patrolled only by Peregrine Falcons. Come late summer the magnificent crag starts to attract its other seasonal visitor in search of some of Yorkshireâs finest traditional limestone climbs. The climbing experience at Blue Scar compliments Yorkshire's near-by Big Three, offering, above all, a bit of peace and quiet when the hordes have descended on Malham and Gordale or the traffic noise is continuous on the road beneath Kilnsey. Although there are a few good sport routes here, it is the line-up of traditional pitches which attracts the majority of visitors. Much of the climbing is of a technical and sustained nature, on vertical ground and protected by good natural gear and a fair amount of pegs and threads but long run-outs will be encountered on many of the routes. Blue Scar is, for the most part, composed of excellent, compact vertical limestone; its only obvious weakness being two horizontal breaks that cut across the faces. The rock itself looks blank but has a profusion of small crimps, pockets, side-pulls, slopers and even the odd jug. Undoubtedly the showpiece of the crag is the Central Wall but the Left Wall also has some quality pitches at more amenable grades. The routes on the right-hand side are not as good but are still worth seeking out for sport climbers.

Access notes

From now on permission will only be given to those who apply in writing in advance. The landowner has issued the following statement:

... 'With effect from the 1st July 2011 permissive access arrangements have changed and access is only with written permission obtained in advance. Proof of current BMC membership will be required. Application forms from'....

The owner has agreed that once obtained, permission will last for a season.

Parking and other details will be included on an information sheet available with the application form.

The landowner states that his permission was always conditional on BMC membership (for insurance / liability reasons) but from now on proof of membership will be required. The new arrangements come about because of the problems caused last year by congestion around the farm by parked vehicles. New parking arrangements will be detailed in the information leaflet."

Blue Scar is easily reached from either Kilnsey (5 minutes extra drive) or over the top of Malham and through the village of Arncliffe. The parking for Blue Scar is situated near a farm about half way from Kilnsey to Arncliffe. PARKING SPACE IS LIMITED - take great care not to block any of the farm buildings entrances or the road itself. IF FARMER IS IN THE BUILDINGS THEN PERMISSION SHOULD BE SOUGHT TO USE THE FOLLOWING ACCESS. From the parking places walk to the east end of the farm buildings and go through the iron gate (cow shed) and then through the iron gate immediately on the left into a field. Cross the small stream and walk diagonally across the field towards a gate in the wire fence. Go through the gate and follow the fence line to a gap in the stone wall where the stream runs. Go through the gap, or one 50m to the left, to arrive at the base of the crag. This path is not a public right of way and the approach described is the only permitted access to and from the crag.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Yorkshire Limestone (2005), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Yorkshire Limestone (Millenium Supplement) (1997), Yorkshire Limestone (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Limestone CowboyE3 5c 2
3Out of the BlueE3 6a 7
4The BluesE2 6a 2
5Blue ThunderE3 5c *12
6Blue SisterE3 5c *21
7Blue BottleHVS 7
8Some Blue For YouE1 5a **30
9Goon ShowE4 6a 4
10Hell's TeethE3 6a *10
11Captain BeefcakeE5 6a *3
12The Blue BeatE4 6b **9
13The KillE4 6a **10
14The Blue PreterE3 6b 3
15The Real ThingVS 4c 5
16UnrealE3 5c **27
17Blue GritE4 6a **25
18The ShootistE5 6b ***16
19The SpinelessE5 6b *3
20The Spineless Right-handE5 6a *1
22Pot of GoldVS 4c  
23Blue ChipVS 4c  
24ArcwrightE3 6a 1
25ArchangelE5 6c * 
26Black DeathE2 5b  
27Blue MaxE2 5b 2
28Out of the Mould (or is it Mold)E3 6a  
29The PiddlerS 1
31Bolt from the BlueE5 6a *5
32More Bolts from the BlueE5 6b **2
33BottlnoseE6 6b * 
34HammerheadE6 6b **1
35PriapismE5 6b ***9
36Central WallE5 6a ***32
37BarracudaE6 6b ***1
38Death WishE6 6b ***3
39Stairway to HeavenE7 6c *** 
40True BlueE7 6b *** 
41Something NewE7 6c 1
42Blue AngelE7 6c ***1
43The Great WhiteE6 6b ***5
44Blue Water, White DeathE6 6c ***1
45Something BorrowedE6 6c **1
46Something BlueE6 6b **1
47The UnderlapE5 6b * 
48The Professor of DesireE6 6c **1
49Blue Afternoon7c * 
50The Lord of the DanceE7 6c *** 
52The Sheep Spider7b *2
53Dolly7a *2
54The Pig Sheep7b *2
55Do you feel lucky?6b+ 4
56Magnum Force6b+ *3
57Make My Day6b 8
59The Argument of Silence6b **21
60Sudden Impact7a+ 6
61Dirty Harry6b 10
62Break Free6c ***14
63The Sibyl Speaks6c ***11
64Blue sky thinking6c+ 4
65AquaMarine6b+ 5
66Across the Wide Blue Yonder7a+ ***3
67Fighting Chance7a **9
68The Gingerbread House6b+ **11
69Fervour and Further6b *19
70From Beer To Infirmity7a+ *3
71A Rattling Good Yarn7a ***3
73Passion off the Pitch6b+ 13
74Blue Swede's Shoes6b+ 5
75Sidewinder6b+ *20
76Rattler6c *12
77Hissing Sid6b+ 9
78Cosmetic Surgery6b+ **6
79Scarface6c 13
80Altered Images6c+ *4
81Nip and Tuck7a+ **3
82Underneath the Arches6a+ 10
83The Arch Of Damocles7a *8
84Shake, Rattle and Roll7a+ *7
85Pillar Talk7a *33
86Rattle Trap7a **20
87The Tender Trap7a+ **6
88once bitten6c+ **4
89Twice Shy7a *3
90Midge Repellent Part 16b *11
91Dark Summer6b **9
92New Desire6a+ 17
93Rising Passions6b ***30
94Meaty Beaty Big and Bouncy6b+ **8
95Rising Damp6b ***10
96Ardour and Harder6a+ **27
97Lust but not least6b **9
98All Embracing6a+ **5
100The WallE1 5b 1
101In the Blue Corner6b *12
102Weighting in the Wings6a+ **16
103Heavyweight Champion6c+ **9
104Time Out of Mind7a+ 12
105Childhood's End7a+ 6
106The Arthur Sowden Concept7b *9
107One Previous Owner7a+ **11
108Maiden Voyage6b **2
109Valdez is ComingE5 6a 3
110Blue BloodE2 5c **9
111Blue Blood6c 5
112Phase TwoE2 5c 3
113Phase Two6b+ **12
114Blue Rinse6b *7
115Rip-em-off again ABE2 5b **4
116Rip-em off again AB6a+ *2
117Rip-em-off again6b 3
118Are we mad6a *9
119Beyond the Call of Duty6a 9
120Blue Finger5c 9
121Innocent Man7a **2
123Continual Assessment7b+  
124Snozzcumber7a+ 1
126Stewart Pringle7b  
127Loitering With Intent7a+ 1
128Minor Misdemeanour7a+ 1
129The LurchVS 4c 1
130Throbscottle7b+ 1
131Holiday Blues7a+ 1
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These details were last updated on 18/Jul/2012

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